proffrink

If you want professionals then try shooting off an e-mail to http://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/ Thing is this may be as simply as swapping out that full auto sear - if that's the case I'd be happy to fit it for you for free; it's a 15 minute job and most, but if you could get that picture of the lower part of it we can see if that's really the issue or not. If it's something more complex then I'd suggest a professional of course because they've the parts on hand to fix it immediately most of the time. Could you also answer the questions from my post if possible? Or you could dive in yourself: GBBRs are hard to break permanently because there re no sensitive electronics - if you assemble it wrong it won't work until you reassemble it correctly, but equally it's very, very rare to fully break something that isn't just worn down through regular use. Sure you may end up with a pile of bits and have to watch an hour-long Youtube video on reassembly, but at the end of it all you have a knowledge of how your own gun works and can save a lot of money.

I could and do. If you're irresponsible with your health then you deserve some degree of judgement from the people that have to pay for that; be it smoking, excessive drinking, excessive eating or even something like texting whilst driving. We all have a responsibility to try and not be idiots with the very finite resources that we have. I don't believe people should be charged or anything silly, but the argument "it's my body and I can do what I want" isn't a catch-all excuse anymore with these well documented health issues when people are not only responsible for their own health but making sure our health system has the resources to deal with unavoidable illness. Again, I'm not being political here - only social. It goes without saying that people should have governance over what goes into their own body, but saying "oh let them do what they want" is lazy. We're not talking about some new synthesised drug here, we're talking about a tobacco product - we absolutely know it's significantly harmful to health. That's why this thread is going on the way it has. I'd far rather see my money go towards treating/researching a cure for childhood leukaemia than someone's throat cancer as a result of them taking stupid risks with well documented carcinogens.

Because the dramatically increased risk of mouth cancer from idiocy is not worth diverting taxpayers money to over someone who isn't an idiot with their health (but has still ended up with another life-threatening disease). It's the same reason why type-2 diabetes should be unacceptable - it costs money to treat these people, a lot of money for everyone. The NHS is a safety-net and if it needs to get used then of course so be it, but people must realise that if they take these risks then the bill is picked up by everyone else if something does go wrong. Over something so silly, well documented and downright unnecessary as snus I just don't see why you'd see it as ok to put that risk into the hands of someone else, and that does need pointing out to certain people.

Edit (questions) 1. When you charge it for the first time and the bolt doesn't go fully forward, once you've mashed the forward assist a bit is the hammer still cocked and ready to fire? Does the same issue happen when firing or just on the first shot? 2. If you charge it on semi then switch to full auto and fire do you have any issues? 3. If you charge it on semi then switch to full auto and cycle the bolt again, do you have any issues? 4. Please raise the hammer (i.e. pull the trigger) and then point your camera down into the lower and look towards the part I've put an arrow indicating (keep reading and you'll see why that bit is important) as I need to see the bottom of it as it may be deformed: Nothing appears out of the ordinary from your pics, but obviously the trigger sears and the bottom of the full auto sear are concealed. It's very hard to diagnose such a problem without being able to see the sears (but that means a full disassembly), however I've seen this happen in an LM4 before (functionally identical design). The way the full auto sear works (bit on the left in that latest image you showed me) is it holds back the hammer slightly as the bolt reciprocates then allows it to drop again. If you're interested in the motion, then look up a real M4 as the mechanics are the same and indeed the full auto sear is identical. Problem is, the hammer is meant to catch on the bottom of that there sear. You'll notice when you switch from semi to auto it rocks backwards in such a way that the bottom of that sear is now in the way of where the hammer would be during normal cycling. Like I was saying earlier, if you pull the trigger and reset the hammer manually you'll see it sits slightly differently in the lower than in semi. All in all, that full auto sear takes a hit every time the bolt cycles as it holds the hammer back slightly so that it isn't released before the bolt carrier unit is back forward again. Basically, the stock ones get destroyed all the time. I'd advise removing the full auto sear to check the bottom (don't lose the C-clip that you have to remove from the pin to push it out). In the image below, it's circled in red (that's the bit that gets kicked a little every time you fire in full auto): There's no other explanation for it really other than something seriously wrong with the formation of the hammer or bolt. I would advise getting an aftermarket one simply for longevity if you're using an HPA-tapped magazine, but I can't find one for the LM4 series - just for WA-based M4s. The WA ones should be fine, so I'll find the cheap steel one I bought if it turns out to be the problem. Here's a video on how to get that sear back in:

From above please. Also, use imgur.com to upload and post images - easier on the server.

You need to go out and buy a whole new AEG.

Ah, the chap I use will do any size too - 2-5 for about £1-3 (depending on size and quantity of course) and can do anything from 1 to 5mm. Just need to message him. I found him cheaper because he does private listings if you message him (which he doesn't pay as much on).

How does that guy's service/turnaround compare to the other chap we've used?

Must be second hand.

The fact that it's doing it in full auto suggests a trigger mechanism or sear issue - nothing else changes position from semi to auto as you could imagine. As Dave says, it's possibly holding the hammer too high and it's grinding against the bolt. What is it that looks bent? The hammer? Bent to one side or not sitting at a 90o angle? On most airsoft designs it never goes 90o except in the moment you pull the trigger as there's a small spring in where the valve knocker is that pushes it back (without this you'd vent the whole mag). The magazine catch shouldn't be an issue as it would cause problems in both semi and auto if it was sitting too high - this is easy to test anyway as it's not engaged until your last shot anyway so it's removed from the equation when your magazine is full. Again, any issues with the mag catch would appear on semi too so you can basically rule that out. This it almost certainly a problem with the trigger mech or hammer. You may notice that the hammer is held at a slightly different angle by the sear when it automatic (you may need to reset the hammer twice to observe this difference. As such, I'd look at your trigger sears too (located underneath the hammer). This could be the culprit as they wear quickly. If you're using an HPA tapped magazine, you absolutely should be investing in proper steal parts as bits wear down. Edit Finally, check your full-auto sear towards the rear of the lower (silver bit) as these are known to wear down all the time. Buying a steel one isn't much money (£7-10), but they are a little fiddly to replace. Can you send us a picture of it all?

Check the surfaces within the trigger group like Dave says - is there any part where there's more wear (i.e. it's shiny rather than the dim anodised colour)?

Pure odourless propane is unfortunately illegal Yeh, some can and some can't. The newer stuff handles it well because Japan is finally realising they can get decent sales in the west (but that means making guns that can handle going over 1J).

Search function!

(With the exception of Sweden, where everyone buys it from anyway)

Yeh, they're good. I put a wrap of electricians tape around them and they were able to hold 600g GBBR magazines with no issues.

Also I'd rather not end up kneeling in a pool of someone's dip-spit during a game.

New ways to consume tobacco products without the growing stigma around cigarettes but make no mistake: It's still a high-carcinogen product and still massively increases your chance of oral, pancreatic and oesophageal cancers. Do yourself - and our already overstretched healthcare system - a favour and stop.

Were you able to compare the HSGI ones to the WAS ones? I'm not one for gear so I can't see any clear differences other than the affordability of the WAS ones.

Who says the burglar has to identify as a man or woman? I for one think pan-sexual burglars shouldn't be afraid to carry out their work in the face of such persecution.

That's an option too - the problem is the further the plastic is from the objective, the more chance you have of distorting the light coming in (reflections in the front perspex perhaps). I can't imagine this is a problem for us at all - if you've not noticed it at all then I'm sure it's a moot point anyway.

They will, because reinserting the magazines is more failsafe - believe me, I've tried extensively. Because there's no textile flapping around, there's zero chance of getting a corner caught when re-inserting it without it being immediately obvious. Again though, this difference becomes basically nil when you factor in a dump pouch (which one should probably use in CQB). I know a lot of people like to say 'all the gear no idea' etc. but the truth is both matter to an extent in any scenario. Sure if you're a complete idiot then plastic retention pouches make no difference when you're fumbling about anyway, but we're assuming OP knows what's up already and so these are absolutely the quickest option if you know what you're doing. The Taco would do the same job, but then the design is nearly identical in concept - plastic friction retention but with some fabric covering the front and back sides. There are a few clones, but the fastmag is such a simple design that the FMA clones are very good (and for £14 for two, very cheap). Another alternative is simple M4 pouch retention inserts like these. They're all the same conceptually. Again though, I'd never use them because for woodland I'd prefer to be sure my magazines aren't flying everywhere and that they're going to stay in place when I lie down. I'm with you on using bungee most of the time, and even in CQB I'd probably go with them too (having sold almost all my fastmags anyway). I'm not sure where you're getting this 'noisy' thing from? It's not like the fart of Velcro in the middle of a forest, we're talking CQB here - there are people shooting, shouting, AEGs whirring and noisy footsteps; they absolutely aren't going to be able to compete with that. Not to mention that they're dampened by the huge elastic bands wrapped around them and that one side is cushioned by the rest of your molle anyway.

Did he really not have to pay any compensation? That really sucks.

This is probably the deal for most people. I know I get a lot of condensation here so I'm careful with some of my guns and gear so they don't go rusty of mouldy. For the cost of a few bags of silica gel I see it as worth it, but if you're in a house with decent insulation then yeh just put them anywhere. They're obviously designed to mitigate against the cold and damp anyway.

Alright, but you'll be in jail with him if they can prove prior intent (which your posts help a great deal in doing). Kurtz has explained it much better than I could though.

Yeh, I do exactly what you've said: Put them in an ammo tin with a bag of silica gel. The biggest problem I've had is the striker cap falling off some of the cheaper brands whilst I've been running or taking them out/putting them into pouches.