Wo1f
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Posts posted by Wo1f
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You’re not having the best of luck, are you.. eagle6 should have spare parts for your magazine.
Are you using the little pipe cutter with the two small cutting disks? The metal is very soft so you need to tighten it just enough to grip, spin it a few times to score it and then tighten the tool up a fraction, before spinning it again.
Where are you based?
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Weather is looking half decent on Saturday so providing it’s not super windy I’m going to do some long range testing on my brother with the mws and a range finder. He doesn’t know it yet, but I’m sure he won’t mind
. Might bring the scar H and gas m40a5 out for a comparison too
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On 19/03/2018 at 10:31 PM, Dentonboy said:
You are all welcome!
Still doesn't smell right to me.
And that would be correct. Got an email from eBay saying ‘someone accessed the sellers account and advertised the boots without permission’. Which means the thick American tw@t didn’t realise he agreed to ship to the uk for that price. eBay have cancelled the order
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They’re good for the price. I’m only buying them so I can use them for work and use my LOWA’s just for their intended purpose of airsoft
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I can deal with the customs. I hate that parcelforce charged me a £12 fee to pay a £6 charge without my permission.
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Is throwing an electric gun in the snow wise?
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1 hour ago, Dentonboy said:
This cannot be right... Right?!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132541541076
Surely not?!
Also bought a pair. They’ll do to keep the wear off my LOWA’s
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Fill the mags until the gas spits out. Most people don’t fill them enough
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Very nice!
Anyone got anymore pictures of their mws? If so, get ‘em up!
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- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Maintenance:
Now before i get into what i do, id like to point out that how i do it and what i use are not the only way of doing things. People use all sorts of different oils, grease and sprays to get the job done. As long as it's suitable for the job, all is well.
Items:
Wurth High performance dry chain lube (Teflon/ptfe spray)
Wurth brake and chain cleaner
Airsoft Engenuity cleaning rod
Silicone oil
paper towels
Step 1:
Remove the magazine and split the upper and lower by popping out the body pins. From there, remove the charging handle and bolt carrier group.
Using the paper towel, wipe them down properly, including the channel on the underside of the charging handle. This is what mine looks like after one game day and a bit of testing.
Step 2:
With the moving parts cleaned, we need to move onto the upper receiver. There is no point cleaning the moving parts if the walls they're sliding against are still dirty, so wipe down the inner walls of the upper receiver as well as the grove that the charging handle runs in.
Step 3:
We're going to finish off the cleaning of the upper by cleaning the barrel. I use an Airsoft Engenuity Optirod because it holds cue tips at a slight angle instead of cutting little strips of tissue, but any will work just fine.
I go in from the muzzle end and stop before the hop up so i don't disturb it or damage it in any way. Because i use propane, i don't get silicone oil or other crap all over the hop rubber. If you do, take a cue tip and gently push it inside and twist. you don't want to apply any sort of pressure because you're at risk of rotating the rubber ever so slightly or damaging it.
Step 4:
Moving on to the lower.. I have two processes that i do to the lower. One after every game, and one after every 5. The only difference is on the 5th clean i spray out the lower with brake/chain/carb cleaner. Because of how tight everything is packed in to the MWS trigger box its hard to completely clean it without removing it from the lower. with carb cleaner it will blast out all of the deposits and degrease the trigger mech completely. what will happen is the spray will run into the gaps and drip out of the trigger hole in the bottom of the lower. The spray evaporates in the air, so after about 30 seconds it will be bone dry, leaving behind a clear trigger box. For the daily clean, i just wipe down all visible surfaces with a cloth/ paper towel. In order to keep a reliable bolt lock, push the bolt release and clean the faces of the ZET plate when it lifts up. if you get crap between there, it can slow and not lock back reliably. Especially running green gas, which cycles the gun faster.
Step 5:
Everything is now clean, so we can start with the lube. There's lots of options out there but one thing that's important is this... SILICONE OIL IS NOT FOR METAL ON METAL PARTS. over time, silicone oil will make metal bind and is the exact opposite of what we want to do. Silicone oil is important, but only for sealing components. I use Wurth dry chain spray for 2 reasons. If it can lubricate and stand up to the temperatures of chain/sprocket contact on a 200mph motorbike, it will do just fine on our bolt moving 8" forward and back. The other reason is it isn't messy. it dries in the air and leaves a light film on the surface so it isn't going to get thrown around the inside of the gun. so give it a good spray and give it a few seconds to dry.
Step 6:
Back to the lower.. If you're using a spray like me, put your finger over the hop up entrance in the lower receiver and give the inside a quick spray with the lube. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY LUBE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE HOP RUBBER. If you're using a grease or oil, this is less of an issue (until you fire the gun and it throws it all in there anyway)
Step 7:
Spray your BCG and charging handle with lube. Pretty self explanatory so i didn't bother with a picture. What i do is hold the bolt by the nozzle with my thumb covering the underside of the nozzle. this stops any lube going into the nozzle chamber.
Step 8:
Last thing to do is lubricate the sealing parts with silicone oil. This step is only really needed if you use propane, as green gas should keep the sealing cup on the nozzle adequately lubed and i do this every 5 games. Pull the nozzle out and place a couple of drops of silicone oil between the nozzle and the BCG. On WE guns you can pull the nozzle out far enough to apple lube directly to the o ring, but you cant on an MWS without removing the nozzle, so this is as good as you can get. Like i said though, if you're using green gas, this shouldn't need to be done often.
Step 9:
Put it all back together because you're done!
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I love mine too. It’s very satisfying to get a kill with such limited capacity, and nothing is better than engaging targets at range knowing they cannot hit you back lol.
This thread is for all things mws, so post anything you like. Get pictures of your pride and joy up, tell us about what mods you like or didn’t or any other cool stuff. Even news on the mws type 89. If it takes an mws mag, I wanna hear about it!
Gonna upload the pictures when I get in and do a maintenance write up.
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46 minutes ago, sonofsammo said:
In terms of maintenance, what should I be doing to mine?
Because I have no idea where to start! TIA.I’ll do a write up on maintenance with pics when I get in if I get chance.
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I’ve got that and an ms3? Clone. Same thing but with clip ends. That’s probably more versitile than the ms4 because you can buy QD swivels and clip them on too.
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1 hour ago, Arwen said:
I am aiming to get rid of the clip on the sling, as I hate the way it rattles against the rail (they are both metal). I was just going to unpick the stitches and sew another qd swivel/clippy thing on, but the new one I bought doesn't fit right... and I've just notice the sling is begin to fray at the other end... so new sling time I think!
ive got one of these ms$ clones and they're nice for the price. Holds my gas m40a5 so it can take the weight.
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HOP UP BUCKINGS:
Let me start by saying that the standard hop up rubbers are more than adequate for virtually all uses. One of the reasons i think they work so well is because they are soft. In general, the lower the FPS, the softer the bucking, and these guns are designed to run on duster gas at 280 FPS. I've found gas guns like softer rubbers because of the cold temperatures they run at, which is why i think the standard one works so well. The advantage of Gas guns over AEG's is that they can throw heavyweight BB's more effectively. This with a combination of a good and stable hop up means your able to fire a 'round' that retains its energy for longer and is less effected by wind. This is where your range and accuracy comes from.
Cheapest upgrade:
This one is potentially free. The stock hop up nub is a hollow rubber cylinder. The problem with that is its soft, so a lot of the hop range is taken up by the nub compressing. That means you're only going to be able to lift a .28 or .3 at a push. Putting a pin or something solid through the hole allows for more hop range, meaning you can lift a heavier BB.
Replacement Nub:
Next option is a replacement nub. Something solid is what you're looking for. if there's no flex or squishiness in the nub then your consistency will improve slightly. I opted for the brass super nub that's pictured above and it's served me very well. According to google maps, the distance in the video above is 60.4m. With an otherwise stock gun, i was hitting my target with ease using .32BB's. The range could have been extended further, but i opted for the straightest flight path over the extended range a little more hop would have supplied because i was forced to use iron sights. You can buy the brass nub here: https://sixgunsmithing.wordpress.com/2018/03/11/sixg-super-nub-for-marui-gbbr/
Replacement bucking:
Now this is where things get interesting... At first, i tried a 70D maple leaf delta bucking in combination with the brass nub (the brass nub is concave, so it works with maple leaf's design) but it offered no noticeable performance gain. I imagine this was down to the hardness. Following that, you have 4 popular options, which are these:
The green UAC is a direct clone of the Marui from what i can tell, but is offered in multiple, colour coded hardness options. It works well and i would consider this a replacement part if you wear out your stock rubber. The maple leaf autobot and decepticon buckings are very good. They've served me well in many WE GBBR's as well as a Tm MK23. it's the current set up in my DMR. These need to be used with some form of concave nub or key. I've also had good luck with PDI's W hold bucking, but its important to mention that it's quite thick and i needed to sand down some of the outside of the rubber to make it fit. Once in, it worked like a charm. I'm currently testing TNT's T-Hop bucking in my CASV. its a similar concave design to the maple leaf. I'll report back with my findings.
Custom Hop:
Everyone can say their gun shoots for miles, and for the most part it's just bullshit, so before we begin, a picture speaks a thousand words.
The set up is as follows:
NPAS
410mm ORGA 6.05
Maple leaf decepticon 60D bucking
Maple leaf I key
modified hop chamber.
400 fps on .2 using ASG Ai .36 BB's
In order to do this, you need to open up the hop window with a file or dremel. You'll understand why when you try to place an I key in the hole as it's too long. you just need to elongate the hole the nub sits in by maybe 2mm.
- Prisce and FreeFrag.UK
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40 minutes ago, sonofsammo said:
@Wo1f - Can you use just the nub on its own? If so, what weight BBs can you use before you need to start altering other things?
Which speedfills do you use? I'm still using the tube that came with it - and it's painfully slow!Yes, it works very well with the stock hop up rubber. Standard I’ve found .28 to be about max. Maybe .3.. with the brass nub you can easily lift .4’s if you like. I found .32 Geoff’s worked well for a 350 FPS gun.
Standard 90rd pistol style loafers with the adapter. MWS mags are quite stiff to load
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50 minutes ago, Dentonboy said:
Thanks, I don't know who Dave is on here Chief.
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Internal modifications:
To start off with i bought myself a PDI raven 250mm 6.01 tightbore barrel, an ORGA 370mm 6.05 barrel, NPAS valve, UAC sealing piston buffer and a maple leaf bucking. I also bought a maple leaf 370mm tight bore, labelled as "for MWS" but it didn't fit, and i'll show you why in a minute.
The Pdi raven barrel is the same length as the standard 250mm inner barrel, but its tighter bore gives around a 35-40 fps increase. the bore is nice and smooth, but the one thing I'm unsure about it the style of cut they put into the hop. it seems to work fine, but the hop window isn't as large as the standard. Depending on the gas you use and the temperature, its possible to go over the 350 fps limit with his barrel, depending on how the hop is set.
The ORGA barrel is brass and is cut like the original hop window. It has a very nice crown and the internal finish is very nice. This barrel went into the DMR MWS i had, before replacing it with a 410MM (Exactly the same barrel, but longer.) Ive found this barrel to be nice and accurate, but the standard barrel is nice enough. Performance increase is there, but its not a drastic change. Due to the length of 370mm this WILL NOT FIT the CQBR. Below is a maple leaf and an ORGA barrel. They look VERY similar, but the alignment cuts are about .5mm off spec. You can force the hop chamber closed, but this has the potential to create inconsistencies so personally I'd avoid.
The UAC sealing buffer offers no noticeable fps or consistency increase. Good to have as a spare though.
The NPAS was fitted to my DMR and is probably the best NPAS I've come across. It seems to hold its adjustment well, probably due to the fact it is quite stiff to turn. I imagine it has a o ring or some form of nylock on the threads at a guess. It suits my purposes, but if you're running a standard <350 fps gun id say it was not needed.
I'm going to go into Hop rubbers later tonight, as I've tried one hell of a lot so it deserves it's own part. For now, have a look at my MWS in it's latest dress. Old school and heavy!
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9 hours ago, Dentonboy said:
Where can one source a copper hop number Sir?!
you mean the brass nub? you ask Dave very nicely if he'll machine you one. £/performance its one of the best mods ive made. either message him on here, or via https://sixgunsmithing.wordpress.com/2018/03/11/sixg-super-nub-for-marui-gbbr/
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1 hour ago, sonofsammo said:
And on a side note, I love how in the Badabing video he shows you how to dismantle the mag - but doesn't mention (or show) what an utter b**tard it is to get the flipping spring back in!
When I was doing one, there should have been the Benny Hill theme tune going on in the background.I know, right?! The tubes didn’t want to come out for me either!
got some stuff to put up today, including a range finder confirmed 81M shot.
- sonofsammo and Davegolf
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THE TM MWS thread
in Gas Guns
Posted
that cutter looks fine. i think what a lot of people do is tighten the cutter too much and crimp the pipe.
if you get the new valves and don't want to have another crack at it, I'd happily do it for you, but you'd have to post them.
Don't let it put you off. i was having a play with mine today and i can't put into words how awesome they are.