Ian_Gere

The clear Shark bucking is very easy to tear. Be very careful when fitting it that you get the barrel aligned into the hop chamber properly 1st time, because if you have to pull it back out, the bucking may well tear. TBH there are better buckings out there: Maple Leaf 60 degree, or 50 degree if you can find one. Or Prometheus Soft (purple). The Madbull buckings can be good if you have BB double feed issues mind. Another good idea is to wrap the forward part of a Madbull/Prometheus bucking in PTFE tape, so that the tape doesn't cover the barrel window area of rubber, grease the PTFE tape with CT-2 Teflon grease, or any silicone grease: this will improve the seal between the rubber and barrel which improves consistency of shot power thus accuracy, but also ought to help prevent a tear in the rubber.

I have an SRC G36 and she was OK out of the box apart from hop rubber...
 
Sounds very much to me as if you had an electrical fault, however, as Duck implies, at this stage it could be anything... I would encourage you to try to sort it out yourself - it's not your only gun, so you don't need it working right this minute, eh?
 
Examine the whole length of each wire for breaks in the insulation/crush marks/damage. Check that the soldering onto the trigger switch unit is intact and also that there is no short circuit between those contacts. Check that the motor connectors fit tightly and that the wires are properly attached to the spade connectors. Ideally you should cut those spade connectors off and solder the wires to the motor directly because that reduces the resistance and improves trigger response. Ideally replace the entire wiring with either 16AWG silcone wiring, silver plated low resistance airsoft cable, or just as good and much cheaper is Maplin 15A power cable.
 
Check that your battery connectors are functioning correctly by using small pieces of wire to connect between the contacts - if the motor spins with the ad hoc connection but not when the connectors are plugged together you'll know that is the problem. Best bet is to swap to Deans connectors anyway, whether or not the Small Tamiya connectors are working.
 
You should be able to tell if your motor contacts are the wrong way round because the motor will twitch inside its cage when the trigger is pulled but not spin. Of course, at this stage you may have replaced something inside the gearbox in a way which jams anyway, so the motor would twitch. The best way to check that you electrical circuit is working independently of the mechanical parts is to remove the motor from the gearbox so that you can see it spin/fail when the trigger is pulled (hold it tightly/clamp it down because otherwise it will jump and may damage something).
 
TBH i doubt if the original problem was caused by pitted/dirty trigger contacts because holding it upside down would not alter that.
 
If the electrical system works, or when you have fixed it, and the gearbox does not cycle once the motor is back in, then clearly the problem is mechanical. Take the barstid apart again being careful to do as little damage to the screw heads and threads into the gearbox shell as possible. As Duck says, check that the piston is on its rails properly. Also check that there are no missing teeth from any of the gears, especially the Sector Gear (the one which contacts the piston), and that there are no extraneous pieces of metal/crap jammed into any of the gear teeth.
 
While you have it open you may as well check the shim job: buy some SHS shims, select 1 of the octagonal ones and place it on the under/left side of the Spur Gear (the middle one) then select the copper ones and place 1 onto each gear axle so that it will always be on top touching your bearings/bushings; with the piston out close the GB and fasten it with the screws; check the spin of the gears - they should be very loose; push against the bearings/bushings to see how much side-to-side play there is in each gear - this will give you an idea how many and what width shims are needed; the idea is that the Spur Gear should be as close to the left hand GB shell as possible but bear in mind that there must be some clearance or it can rub the shell once the gears are under strain; you are trying to get the best balance between gears which spin freely and gears which do not move from side to side; always err on the side of free spinning.
 
When you are satisfied with your shim job, grease the inside on the GB shell with CT-2 Teflon Grease (search fleabay); put blobs of CT-2 on the gear axles between the shims and gears and also between shims and bearings/bushings. Put plenty of C-2 on the piston rails. Make sure there is a thin layer of grease in the troughs where the Tappet Plate moves back and forth.
 
Make sure that the Anti-Reversal Latch and its spring are placed correctly - it should be under tension pulling the ARL upwards into contact with the Bevel Gear (the one which meets the motor's Pinion Gear).
 
Make sure that the Tappet Plate spring is correctly fitted and that the Air Seal Nozzle is correctly seated in the U-shaped end of the Tappet Plate.
 
May as well also use the CT-2 to coat the inside of the cylinder and the piston head O-ring - this will improve compression/consistency of compression.
 
Edit to add: if you have any questions by all means post them here, but pics always help.

Where did that^^ speedloader come from, mate?

The plain fact of the matter is that polycarbonate lenses always either fog or rain (those with anti-fog coatings get streaks/droplets), it's just a matter of when and whether the time it takes to happen to any given combination of goggle and treatment is compatible with your skirmish needs. The best combo I have yet come across was Revision Bullet Ants with the foam dust filters removed and treated the night before with FogTech liquid and polished in the morning with the cloth which comes with ESS goggles - that got me to lunchtime, but then i was not very fit so sweat was a major issue. Retreatment with FogTech &/or ESS cloth did not get me through a single 30-40min game after that and i switched to mesh.
 
ESS Turbofans are supposed to be the gold standard, but last time i looked they were about £150. I've tried some knock off ones and they did not work well at all. I have also tried some ACM goggles with a fan built into the side - not much cop either, but with the fan from a 2nd pair in the opposite side they are usable for a while - the main trouble with them is that they do not use a simple on/off switch to power them, there is some kind of power saving circuitry involved which is not very stable, nor does it work the same for both fans at the same time... very frustrating; I did try to simply bypass the circuitry however the motors do not work when powered directly, so i'm guessing the power saving malarky involves a voltage step-up.
 
The trouble with most "mesh" goggles is that they do not actually utilise mesh at all, but rather perforated sheet. I have found that the shadows this produces on your POV are very much more persistent than those produced by actual mesh made from interwoven wire - my best eyepro is homemade: ESS Advancer V12's with the polycarbonate lenses removed and replaced with mesh made from 0.71mm 316 Stainless Steel #8 mesh shaped so that it bulges outwards and each wire is bent at its end to loop around another, which means that it cannot deform by moving sideways in relation to those wires it crosses, because to do so would have to either make it longer or snap that end loop. After a few minutes it feels as if there is nothing at all in front of my eyes and although something can happen which will make my eyes involuntarily attempt to refocus close up on the mesh, bringing back shadows, they very soon disappear again...
 
I just CBA to explain again why a shattered BB fragment cannot damage your eyes through commercially available mesh - i've written it up in great detail several times on here, so a good search of fogging threads will find it eventually. But basically it comes down to this - it is simply not in any way ever, under any circumstances ever, possible for a site legal gun to produce a BB fragment which can both fit through mesh and damage your eye beyond that which is produced by windblown sand, ie if you don't rub it, it will do you no harm at all.

First things I'd look at are
 
1. Air seal. Don't think it's a massive issue if your using an AEG.
2. If barrel is dirty
3. Bucking, check if it worn.
4. Check the adjuster is working and nub is being pushed down.

It came with the gun a welcome little bonus

I have an SRC G36 and she was OK out of the box apart from hop rubber...
 
Sounds very much to me as if you had an electrical fault, however, as Duck implies, at this stage it could be anything... I would encourage you to try to sort it out yourself - it's not your only gun, so you don't need it working right this minute, eh?
 
Examine the whole length of each wire for breaks in the insulation/crush marks/damage. Check that the soldering onto the trigger switch unit is intact and also that there is no short circuit between those contacts. Check that the motor connectors fit tightly and that the wires are properly attached to the spade connectors. Ideally you should cut those spade connectors off and solder the wires to the motor directly because that reduces the resistance and improves trigger response. Ideally replace the entire wiring with either 16AWG silcone wiring, silver plated low resistance airsoft cable, or just as good and much cheaper is Maplin 15A power cable.
 
Check that your battery connectors are functioning correctly by using small pieces of wire to connect between the contacts - if the motor spins with the ad hoc connection but not when the connectors are plugged together you'll know that is the problem. Best bet is to swap to Deans connectors anyway, whether or not the Small Tamiya connectors are working.
 
You should be able to tell if your motor contacts are the wrong way round because the motor will twitch inside its cage when the trigger is pulled but not spin. Of course, at this stage you may have replaced something inside the gearbox in a way which jams anyway, so the motor would twitch. The best way to check that you electrical circuit is working independently of the mechanical parts is to remove the motor from the gearbox so that you can see it spin/fail when the trigger is pulled (hold it tightly/clamp it down because otherwise it will jump and may damage something).
 
TBH i doubt if the original problem was caused by pitted/dirty trigger contacts because holding it upside down would not alter that.
 
If the electrical system works, or when you have fixed it, and the gearbox does not cycle once the motor is back in, then clearly the problem is mechanical. Take the barstid apart again being careful to do as little damage to the screw heads and threads into the gearbox shell as possible. As Duck says, check that the piston is on its rails properly. Also check that there are no missing teeth from any of the gears, especially the Sector Gear (the one which contacts the piston), and that there are no extraneous pieces of metal/crap jammed into any of the gear teeth.
 
While you have it open you may as well check the shim job: buy some SHS shims, select 1 of the octagonal ones and place it on the under/left side of the Spur Gear (the middle one) then select the copper ones and place 1 onto each gear axle so that it will always be on top touching your bearings/bushings; with the piston out close the GB and fasten it with the screws; check the spin of the gears - they should be very loose; push against the bearings/bushings to see how much side-to-side play there is in each gear - this will give you an idea how many and what width shims are needed; the idea is that the Spur Gear should be as close to the left hand GB shell as possible but bear in mind that there must be some clearance or it can rub the shell once the gears are under strain; you are trying to get the best balance between gears which spin freely and gears which do not move from side to side; always err on the side of free spinning.
 
When you are satisfied with your shim job, grease the inside on the GB shell with CT-2 Teflon Grease (search fleabay); put blobs of CT-2 on the gear axles between the shims and gears and also between shims and bearings/bushings. Put plenty of C-2 on the piston rails. Make sure there is a thin layer of grease in the troughs where the Tappet Plate moves back and forth.
 
Make sure that the Anti-Reversal Latch and its spring are placed correctly - it should be under tension pulling the ARL upwards into contact with the Bevel Gear (the one which meets the motor's Pinion Gear).
 
Make sure that the Tappet Plate spring is correctly fitted and that the Air Seal Nozzle is correctly seated in the U-shaped end of the Tappet Plate.
 
May as well also use the CT-2 to coat the inside of the cylinder and the piston head O-ring - this will improve compression/consistency of compression.
 
Edit to add: if you have any questions by all means post them here, but pics always help.

Just got myself a CYMA RPK, VDV Russian Army impression loadout begins!
 

 
Will get some better photos up in future- it's missing the rear sight so I'm replacing that ASAP.

Where did that^^ speedloader come from, mate?

http://airsoft-club.com/shop/magazine/gas-pistol-magazine/24rd-pistol-magazine-for-marui-g17-glock-17-gbb-black

As a raiders fan, I couldnt resist
 

LCT AS VAL and 3 spare mags....it's lovely...

4 x FAST pistol mag pouches in black
3000 Rocket 0.25g BBs
~ £25 from gunfire incl. postage.
 
Bought these for use at pistol games since I had an incident last night where the distinctive sound of my velcro pouch gave me away to someone in the next room. Hopefully should fit my cz75 mags (being 9mm in real steel) but if not won't take much to modify them.

I know I posted this before, but now it's complete and not leaky (yay):
 

Gat? Really...? I'm imagining you holding it by the pistol grip only, sideways obviously...

I have absolutely no wish to put neoprene on my face ever again. I get quite hot and sweaty when i play like most and i used to run a neoprene half mask. It held sweat and condensed breath, stank as soon as it got a tiny bit damp with it and breathing with it on made me feel sick.....
 
Cannot beat a mesh mask, they are perfect for air ventilation and comfy if you shape them right. Mine is attatched to my fast helmet on the clips. Those teamed with revision low profile ballistic goggles make my face a comfy fog free and relatively cool place lol

BTC Spectre mosfet for TM Next Gen :-) :-)

yep....damn Ipod!
 
did try to multi quote but the forum and my PCs just don't mix well!
 

...which isn't exactly hard to be better than...

When you order an RIF from overseas, if there is a "Company" field in the address form, type "UKARA# XXX1234" into it so that it is automatically part of the address label. You should also ask them to write your UKARA number large on the package in any "Comments" stylee box that comes with the order form, but bear in mind that you're dealing with people for whom English is an acquired language and some of them will not understand the significance, so putting it in your address is still important. This goes just the same for ordering from the EU, wider Europe, HK, Mainland China, the USA or Japan.
 
Bear in mind that stuff which comes from the USA always gets hit by customs for VAT and almost always stuff from Japan. But stuff which comes from HK, China, and Europe is much less likely to attract this bum-rapage... (my average is currently up from 1/7 to about 1/6 parcels) although tbh the fact that they are gun shaped seems to get RIF's the attention anyway. It's the admin fee which the couriers charge for processing your VAT payment which is the real pain in the hole mind: it's usually between £8-13 but i've heard of higher. Bear in mind that there is no VAT on purchases from inside the EU, so buying RIF's from Poland is a very popular choice and the 2 main companies, gunfire.pl and taiwangun.com, both understand the significance of a UKARA number - just a hint: if you do order from taiwangun.com and want them to downgrade the spring for you for just the cost of the new spring, you must follow their instructions for how to fill in the order form to the letter, because they will not retroactively add free spring downgrade to an order which you ask for by email afterwards.

When you order an RIF from overseas, if there is a "Company" field in the address form, type "UKARA# XXX1234" into it so that it is automatically part of the address label. You should also ask them to write your UKARA number large on the package in any "Comments" stylee box that comes with the order form, but bear in mind that you're dealing with people for whom English is an acquired language and some of them will not understand the significance, so putting it in your address is still important. This goes just the same for ordering from the EU, wider Europe, HK, Mainland China, the USA or Japan.
 
Bear in mind that stuff which comes from the USA always gets hit by customs for VAT and almost always stuff from Japan. But stuff which comes from HK, China, and Europe is much less likely to attract this bum-rapage... (my average is currently up from 1/7 to about 1/6 parcels) although tbh the fact that they are gun shaped seems to get RIF's the attention anyway. It's the admin fee which the couriers charge for processing your VAT payment which is the real pain in the hole mind: it's usually between £8-13 but i've heard of higher. Bear in mind that there is no VAT on purchases from inside the EU, so buying RIF's from Poland is a very popular choice and the 2 main companies, gunfire.pl and taiwangun.com, both understand the significance of a UKARA number - just a hint: if you do order from taiwangun.com and want them to downgrade the spring for you for just the cost of the new spring, you must follow their instructions for how to fill in the order form to the letter, because they will not retroactively add free spring downgrade to an order which you ask for by email afterwards.

Predictive text?
 
Those KMNW Tactical pouches i bought t'other day turned up - they're good. about the same quality as Condor i'd say, so better than Viper but not as good as WAS. For the prices i paid from their eBay shop closing down sale I'm well happy.

District 9 was fucking genius, so i have high hopes, but nonetheless I still have doubts... The theactrical release of 3 was sooooo messed up when you listen to David Fincher talking about his plans for the film and yeah, the Director's Cut is a much better film, but if the studio had kept their noses out during production it could have been at least as good as Aliens, perhaps better. And while Ridley Scott is without doubt great too, i dunno about Prometheus - i mean it just promised so much more than it delivered and i find myself wondering if the bloke actually has the imagination to take the subject matter to the heights it deserves...
 
Oh yeah, and AVP: Requiem is so well named - the death knell for the franchise: it's just so bad I can hardly believe it was actually released.

When you order an RIF from overseas, if there is a "Company" field in the address form, type "UKARA# XXX1234" into it so that it is automatically part of the address label. You should also ask them to write your UKARA number large on the package in any "Comments" stylee box that comes with the order form, but bear in mind that you're dealing with people for whom English is an acquired language and some of them will not understand the significance, so putting it in your address is still important. This goes just the same for ordering from the EU, wider Europe, HK, Mainland China, the USA or Japan.
 
Bear in mind that stuff which comes from the USA always gets hit by customs for VAT and almost always stuff from Japan. But stuff which comes from HK, China, and Europe is much less likely to attract this bum-rapage... (my average is currently up from 1/7 to about 1/6 parcels) although tbh the fact that they are gun shaped seems to get RIF's the attention anyway. It's the admin fee which the couriers charge for processing your VAT payment which is the real pain in the hole mind: it's usually between £8-13 but i've heard of higher. Bear in mind that there is no VAT on purchases from inside the EU, so buying RIF's from Poland is a very popular choice and the 2 main companies, gunfire.pl and taiwangun.com, both understand the significance of a UKARA number - just a hint: if you do order from taiwangun.com and want them to downgrade the spring for you for just the cost of the new spring, you must follow their instructions for how to fill in the order form to the letter, because they will not retroactively add free spring downgrade to an order which you ask for by email afterwards.

Not that I remember, still on the prison but better than the film script by a country mile.