Jump to content

Ian_Gere

Supporters
  • Posts

    6,417
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    171
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Ian_Gere

  1. I know I'm missing something here, but you keep 'em in your tent/vehicle with your other kit... Do you mean whether people empty the mags of gas and refill in the morning? I expect it depends on how much gas they brought, but afaik you are supposed to store them with a little gas pressure, but i'm not sure it matters for 1 night.
  2. Wow, we getting all bauhaus n shit... I'll have to do another that doesn't fit and call it cubist!
  3. It may be to allow for different sizes/shapes of people.
  4. Krylon stays stuck to flexible stuff quite well, especially if you finish it with Krylon Clear Coat. But yeah, it's the idea as a whole that impresses me - like you say it does make grabbing a flashbang a lot faster than getting one out of a pouch. What did you use for the receptacle at the bottom?
  5. As soon as you go airsofting you have the defence - you dont need a UKARA registration. You can legally remove the two tone paint. Fairy Power Spray takes it off.
  6. I have a 60cm cleaning rod and i have seen people using longer ones. They go in whatever you are carrying your gun in easily enough. You can also use that plastic coated spring stuff which is used to hold lace curtains up - the latest generation of SA80 cleaning kits use the same stuff with brass ends, one slot and one thread, instead of the threaded steel rods they used to use. I expect that you could screw the plastic ends of a cleaning rod into that curtain wire.
  7. If you haven't already, please put a 'how to' guide in the DIY thread. The only thing I would say is that some Krylon on the clips would look excellent and a way of attaching 1/2 of 1 striker strip from a box of Cook's Matches to each, that would allow them to be replaced once no longer 'strikey', would be bloody fantastic!
  8. Are those rear sights not too high to aim level-ish with the front sight?
  9. Well yeah, but they're not all in the field at the same time... even though Saturday 15:45 at The Village feels like it
  10. I just took the plunge and bought a 2nd hand Silverback PP-19 Bizon, but you could get an S&T one for less than £200.
  11. Forget the paintball mask - it will give you problems with fogging. Have a read of this.
  12. I took the plunge and went for a Silverback one with 4 midcaps. Just paid £180 and will pay the remainder of £70 on Tuesday. Not a bad deal for either side. I think if I had pressed harder I could have scalped him, but tbh i'm not suffering from walletitis at the moment so there was no need.
  13. Mr. B you can sort those mags out - to get them apart you need to get this for the double prong bits. I dunno if you just got lemons though because I leave mine with CO2 bulbs in them and I haven't had any problems. I'm willing to buy yours still if you can't be arsed fixing them. I have occasionally put a drop of silicone oil into the receptacle where the neck of the CO2 bulbs go, when I've changed them, so maybe that has helped, but my original mag never fires at over 370FPS so something has changed inside it.
  14. I have one of those vests, Flex. They are excellent. Lighter than PLCE, more versatile than SAAV, and more comfortable than a WAS RICAS. IMO £32 is a bit over the odds, but it does look to be in good condition, and those rocket pouches can cost more than a tenner on their own. The horizontal pouches for maglite and pocket knife are exactly the right size for speedloaders
  15. That sounds like a bad idea to me - you should try your best to minimise the chances of scratches to the inside of your barrel and, even though brass is soft for metal, the barrel itself is not tempered carbon steel - dragging metal through it will scratch it to some extent. Such fine scratches affect range and can affect accuracy since they have a slightly higher friction coefficient than an unscratched polished surface and this affects the stability of hop induced backspin, ie minute fractions more or less spin on either side of the BB. As there is no combustion, you are never going to need to actually scrub the inside, so you do not need to be able to drag a rag up and down the barrel so many times that a string is sufficiently more efficient over a plastic cleaning rod for it to be worthwhile. If you do ever submerge your gun in muddy water you should disassemble it and soak the barrel in hot soapy water and rinse repeatedly until there is no chance of dragging fine sand through the barrel when you use a piece of rag to clean out any oily/greasy residue. The best method is to use alcohol swabs on the end of those plastic cleaning rods with the slot in one end.
  16. This as well: Vz58 Tactical Nobody makes an airsoft version though. Airsoftpro.cz used to do the original wood version, but no longer :'( It's like a stripped down AK with straighter lines.
  17. In order of usefulness: Sling - being able to drop your gun so you can use your hands and have it still across your chest is so useful in more circumstances than I can even remember, but most obviously climbing ladders, through windows, or crawling, but also something as simple as explaining where the enemy are to other people; plus having part of the weight taken by a sling helps - even if you are strong, it's the reps that do you in, so holding your gun up all day takes it out of your biceps... Sling Mount - your AEG's hang for comfort and ease of use can be greatly improved by where the sling attaches and what shape the mount is. Vertical Foregrip - holding horizontal handguards requires your wrist to be rotated almost as far as it goes, which can cause an ache after a whole day, but a vert grip allows a much more comfortable wrist position. Angled Foregrip (AFG) &/or Gas Peddle / Hand Stop / Magwell Grip - some people find these better than a vert grip. Grip-pod - combined vert grip & bipod - can be useful, especially if defending a trench or other fixed position where you are not going to move far until you get hit, but on the sort of gun which you wouldn't ordinarily put a bipod on. Some of the tube type which have 2 legs spring out below have really crappy plastic legs which snap unless you use them very carefully. Red Dot Sight - as Ed said, allows faster target acquisition. You need to get one which has a fairly bright dot to be useful outdoors, so the type which have variable brightness settings are probably best, unless you can get the same type someone tells you is bright enough. Torch - you don't need to spend fortunes / Ultrafire is a cheap Chinese brand but the Cree XML T6 LED they use is the same as used in more expensive brands. The C8 model is a pretty good all rounder, but the type with a zoomable bezel is probably better as a weapon mounted torch, even though it is not quite as bright as the C8, due to having less reflector than the C8. Rail Covers - can stop sharp edges wearing away at your clothing/equipment, but you should not be holding your AEG by a rail anyway, so it shouldn't matter to your hands - and you should also have gloves on... Lasers - if your local sight allows green ones then they can be used outside and can be useful to show someone else where an enemy is hiding, but they're not really much use as a target designator to use in conjunction with your own sight. Red ones are not bright enough in daylight outdoors and indoors you are unlikely to need to paint a target location for somebody else. Noob Tube - AKA nade launcher - funny to burst into a room and let go with 108 BB's in 1 pop, but doesn't achieve anything full auto wouldn't.
  18. About 5 mags per bulb, iirc. TBH I don't use it often enough to keep track! The sound is a sharp explosive crack - all from the muzzle so it sounds even louder when it's fired at you than it does behind it!
  19. It sounds quite loud actually. I've had ppl whom I couldn't see put their hands up and come out from behind bushes when I fired a couple of probing shots towards them... I can only guess they shat themselves and didn't want to risk being hit by it lol! I use any old 12g bulbs (most of mine are either Crossman or Umarex, but a few have no markings on them) - 3 times i've spotted deals too good to miss and i got about 15 when I bought some Thunder B grenades 2nd hand also. Just bear in mind that brand new they fire at around 370FPS or just over 1st shot and drop a few each time in successive shots down to about 355 which is the minimum you get until the bulb needs changing, so even if a site allows CO2 guns, these will be too hot for most. It only took a few months of plinking before the 1st shot was consistently under 370FPS though, so I could use it @Skirmish Mansfield as a sidearm. There are a few woodland sites which allow up to 370 and some, like GZ, which allow any semi-auto gun to fire up to 425 without a MED. Oh yeah, if you fire say 5 shots, it's not long before the 1st of another volley will be back at 370+FPS - less than 5mins.
  20. Real Sword SVD Plain wood & steel weathered for the 'trusty veteran' look. Because it has all the 'people's gun' cool of an AK but stretched out and a sniper rifle should be looooong! For pistols I'm in love with H&K P.45 Match and one of these days I will buy one, but also... Yarygin MP-443 "Grach" It's like a P226 for people with big hands
  21. If you are determined to buy a cheap pistol regardless of what has been said about saving for a rifle, etc. then get this. I have 2 - I bought the second 2nd hand because you cannot get spare mags for them, hence i now have 1 pistol, 1 spare, & 2 mags. They are CO2, they are too hot for most sites, but eventually the mags wear out a bit and give under 350 FPS (a couple of thousand shots). The reason for this is a matter of speculation, but the most plausible explanation i've heard is that using them with the cheap multi-purpose 12g CO2 bulbs does not allow any lubrication inside the valve, unlike the expensive Walther CO2 bulbs which are made for pistols and contain silicone oil. The lack of lube prevents the valve opening as much as previously and less CO2 is allowed through per shot. Performance wise they are pretty good, especially when you consider that they equal or better the performance of most pistols up to double the price. The hop up is fixed though, so effective range is always going to <25m and you must use 0.2g BB's to shoot further than 10m without having to aim up. Even before I modded the grip with an ergonomic exact fit to my hand, at 7.5m I could get a 3" grouping from 5 shots aiming with just the one hand, ie not supporting grip with left hand. With a two handed grip at 7.5m I could put 10 shots within 2". Since I put the grip-mod on I can get the same accuracy from single hand grip as I could with two hands before.
  22. They are more accurate, because it takes more wind to deflect them from their trajectory, but as you rightly said, if your target can see them coming and step out of the way, it doesn't matter how accurate they are. BTW, "FPS isn't everything" is a saying you will see a lot. Well, trust me on this, when it comes to getting hits in the field, FPS may not be everything, but it is far more important than most other gun-related factors. Of course you also need a decent hop up set up, but we do not live in some kind of nightmare scenario where you must choose between good hop or good FPS - your aim should be to have both. If your hop unit gives good accuracy and range at 290FPS, you will keep the accuracy and get better range at 330FPS, and more still at 345FPS.
  23. At 290FPS you should use 0.2g BB's. Basically 0.25's don't give you any advantage until around 345FPS-ish (with 0.2's) - heavier than that should be left for DMR's and BASR's (Bolt Action Sniper Rifles).
×
×
  • Create New...