Ian_Gere

I had e-fucking-nuff!

I don't think you and I are talking about the same thing. Fair enough, if your intention is to scientifically compare shots with equal muzzle energy so that the only variable is the BB weight, so for eg at 1.14J a 0.2g BB has a muzzle velocity of 350FPS and a 0.25g BB has 313FPS - but these are figures derived from maths. To actually achieve these equal muzzle energies/velocities you could not simply load different ammo into the same gun and set the hop, because in the real world applying more hop to lift a heavier BB reduces the muzzle velocity more than simply the change in weight would suggest. I doubt many people have ever thought much about this because we expect to lose velocity when we use heavier BB's; what drew my attention to it was fitting a Falcon 455x6.03mm TBB with the Dual Point hop rubber... It really struggles to lift .25's, so when I slide enough hop on (it's an AK: no clicks) to get the best range possible with flatish trajectory, the result is 5-6m less than I can get firing 0.2's... (is this the dreaded one gun phenomena conflated erroneously with fairies at the bottom of the garden, et al, a la Ed's comment above perhaps... read on and decide for yourselves). ...which made me think the whole process through again - I had thought about it a bit back when we were considering the alleged phenomena of 'Joule creep'. TBH I can't remember the complex reasoning of the discussion, although it is somewhere within these hallowed pages, but i do remember thinking that it didn't matter anyway because of the way in which hop up works - basically it is a brake designed to fail: if the brake succeeded the BB would be stopped completely (and some hop units can do this, much to the annoyance of a steady stream of noobs whom we meet here at their wit's end), but by only partially succeeding the braking effect is applied to one side of the BB resulting in backspin - but here is the point: braking occurs ...and more hop on equals more braking. I just did a quick test on my chrono to illustrate the point: the average of 10 shots with no hop firing 0.2's was 353.45FPS vs 321.27 with hop set for max range flat traj. It's dark so I can't see to set the hop with 0.25's (it was left on set for 0.2's) But you all know this. So why is it difficult to swallow that applying more hop to lift heavier BB's reduces the energy those BB's carry as momentum, over and above the velocity lost by a heavier object given a similar impetus? There are other complicating factors also, such as how whatever imperfections there are in the air seal from piston head to barrel will behave differently under the changing pressure over the time it takes for the BB to exit the barrel and since this is different for different weights of BB, it is undoubtedly a factor*, just one which would need a pretty complex set up to measure. But hey, that just means that you really do need to experiment with your guns to find what works for you, as has been said. *Simply changing the piston head to a dual O-ring type gives approx +20FPS / Modify Hybrid barrel & hop rubber combo can give +30FPS over and above whatever may be gained by changing a stock 6.08mm barrel to a 6.03mm TBB, so airseal and changes in its performance are significant. But a blanket statement that 0.25's are better is not helpful. I agree that people do believe things which the evidence observed by someone else seems to disprove and otherwise sensible people have apparently witnessed evidence for things which just simply cannot be true** - maybe some of you remember the fad known as 'suckback' where it was believed by some that if you did not have sufficient air volume in your cylinder (because of vents) to make certain that the air was still expanding the whole time that the BB was travelling down the barrel, then in long barrelled AEG's when the piston was pulled back ready for the next shot the BB would be retarded by air being sucked back down the barrel. Well, you only have to work out the time the BB spends in the barrel compared to the cycle speed of the gearbox to know that this is impossible, but besides that, there are vents in the piston head which allow air to fill the cylinder from behind the piston head - but people wrote on forums and told me f2f that they had tested it with a chrono etc. You know what, I'm willing to believe that people would hallucinate better results with .25's because they believe they must be better in all circumstances. There are different hardnesses of hop rubber: generally speaking the softer / lower the degree, the stickier the rubber and the stickier it is the less 'hop on' you need to lift any BB, but also the softer the faster they wear out, so if you have a high FPS gun you can use a harder rubber because you have power to spare, but this is also desirable because higher power guns wear their hop rubbers out faster. But most stock rubbers are made to work ok and last a fair while - a couple of years of average use, say once or twice a month skirmishing all day and a bit of plinking in between, and also bear in mind that, with the exception of Japanese guns, almost all AEG's are designed to be at least 25% more powerful than UK limits. So going back to the beginning of this post, do you think that it is only funky hop rubbers such as Falcon Dual Point which can result in losing more power by putting enough hop on to lift .25g BB's than is made up for by additional range gained by conservation of momentum vs air resistance in denser BBs, or do you think that some guns downgraded to M100 springs with stock rubbers may suffer the same effect, bearing in mind that the difference or perhaps similar but not as extreme, so that what they gain from more weight is lost to additional braking? Perhaps you think as I do, that due to our UK FPS limits, if 0.23's were more easily available and cheaper, they would probably be a better choice than 0.2's or 0.25's for many UK guns, but in the absence of an overnight miracle, you should suck it an see... **I wonder if you were referring to our conversation Ed when I said that I was getting 70m accurate for man sized target shots from my tac AK? I know. It sounds impossible, but I swear, @MCG The Gaol firing out of the window of 1 cell block, across the path through the main gates into the yard of the main block with the refectory etc in it, the entire length of that block to targets standing around believing they could not be hit by people 15-20m closer to them than I - not flat trajectory, but not walked onto target lobs either, aimed shots at an upward angle - approx 346-7FPS (using a Magic Box double O-ring piston head, lashings of CT-2 grease, unbranded ali O-ring nozzle, lonex hop unit, G&G green rubber, PTFE tape wrapped hop rubber, Madbull fishbone spacer, 6.04mm TBB (i had to downgrade the spring to some poxy shotgun spring i got in a job lot of parts because i was getting over 380 with an M100) and Blaster .25g BB's she died about 15mins from the end of the day grrrr - but she shall return weyhey!

Yours is bigger and prettier than mine. He says without a flicker of a snigger... not! And now for my latest me sized toy: Silverback PP-19 Bizon-2

Good job, Russe11. Glad to see i'm not the only one who buys a whole box full of random stuff to get the one he needs on the off chance that some of the others may prove useful at some unknown point hence, rather than spend nearly the same money on just one of the one i need now at an exorbitant price just because it comes from an airsoft retailer... For me: 4 RPK magazine, 2 granate and 2 flares pouch x 2 - 119PLN each Medicine cabinet with the nippy panel, Olive – MOLLE - 149PLN 2 RPK magazine pouch – MOLLE +35PLN Shipping from frontowiec.com (£97-odd total) Bit of a splash out, but I have some RPK mags which i use with my AKS-74U as well as needing these pouches for the mags of my newest toy, a Silverback PP-19 Bizon-2 did i even say I had bought that £250 not cheap by any means, but it's a full steel lump of sturdy, laserlike shooting, bad-be-fucked-bloody-evil-arsed-looking goodness (pics will appear in the gun pics thread shortly) and after spanking so much, since i have the dosh, being cheap with the webbing would be wrong. 12V Lead Acid battery for my PNV-57A NVG (which is still not working grrrr) and some connectors and bits from component shop - £11-odd posted. I'm sure i've spent some more money on airsoft recently too, but for the life of me i cannot bring it to mind. Hey ho, if the meds keep affecting me like this I'll end up never knowing whether the doorbell is the posty with more toys or the bailiffs lol!

Hi - i added an 'o' to your title in line with our policy on unambiguous, informative, bla de bla... Svetlana on her last outing: I've since added a buttstock pouch with 8 7.62x54R inert rounds and a couple more bits of raffia: I plan on taking all the camouflage off and wrapping her from gas block to a little way in front of the muzzle of the suppressor in chicken wire, then putting the camo back on - the plan is to be able to make an uneven shape without adding any significant weight, but no doubt it will not be as simple as that. I expect I'll get around to adding some stuff to the sling when i finally get round to finishing my ghillie suit. I came to the conclusion that, even with other stuff around it, scrim alone is not good enough when I examined this photo: ...I had assumed that at distance it would be like digital camouflage patterns. That you wouldn't be able to see the straight lines - but that isn't really the issue - you just don't get anything in nature with regular perforations like that, so although it's great as a base, it needs something stringy around it. Man made 'raffia' (rayon) is pretty good i think - you can get it with gradations of colour and being man made fibre, it doesn't absorb moisture. I think she needs a bit more on the left hand side, but i'll leave it until i do the chicken wire mod. If you compare the top pic to how she is now, you can see i've cut the leaf shape bits of scrim i had hanging down under the forward end into irregular strips - i think this is probably better. You can get the raffia from amazon. Another trick i've used is to cut the scrim wrap into irregular angled bits and then roughly stitch them back together, so that when it's wrapped around the gun with the seams facing out, it forms irregular ridges. The thin stringy stuff is a commercial ghillie wrap, probably similar to yours but with black also, which i got from fleabay - one of those Chinese sellers like sportscorner / they tend to have a whole bunch they put up ending a few hours apart. People usually bid them up to about £6-7 but if you copy the item name and paste it into an ebay.com search you'll be bidding against yanks so the price will be lower. That's a good tip for things like scope mount rings and rails, etc too. I think yours looks pretty good except for the scope - like i said about mine, regular dots are not something you see in woodlands. Yeah, putting loads of stuff on can interfere with your view down the scope, but I just brush it out of the way when I set up for a shot. I dunno about you but, as much as i'd like to be caught on video doing it, "quickscoping" imo is purely for video games. Airsoft sniping is about setting up to use your additional range against unsuspecting targets - camouflage is almost always more important than being able to take quick reaction shots, but i'm still learning...

Yeah, tinkering for tinkering's sake is probably a bad idea, but then again, if you plan on tech-ing your own gun/s in future, you have to start somewhere. Depending on how confident you feel about your ability to dismantle stuff and re-mantle it, maybe better to wait until you have a back up before doing something which may need someone else to fix. That said I didn't - I only skirmished my CM.028U once before I had her in bits - it has to be said however that I did fuck her up too, although it took a few more fiddling sessions than the first - but until recently she has never been as good as she was straight out of the box, which is particularly galling because she was excellent! The hop unit in wombat machines has a good rep and the green G&G rubber is above average. However I'd say that any AEG hop unit which uses a plain cylinder shaped nub will be improved for accuracy by an H-nub. It's a simple thing to fit, so long as you do it on a bench with enough space, or over carpet with a short shag/lino/tiles - because if you drop either of the nubs into deep carpet, or a pile of crap in a workshop, etc., you may not see it again. If you do think of fitting a TBB, bear in mind that a 363x6.03mm TBB will increase your FPS with 0.2s by about 25, compared to a 363x6.08mm stock barrel, so you may find that if your local site limit is 350, you have to downgrade the spring - which is a whole different cupboard of monkeys. I would suggest going down to an Element M95 rather than the typical M90 (which would lose you everything you gained, and maybe a bit more, from the TBB).

Even though I hate M4's and two tones, that PAS starter pack is a good deal. It looks like the eyepiece of those goggles is interwoven wire, not perforated sheet - which gives better 'seethruability' (which is a technical term used in the science of seeingwoturdoingversuslosinganeyeology). That said, they look shit and the interior of of the mask portion gets coated in condensed breath and spittal when you run around in it - which is unpleasant, but better than losing a tooth. The NiMh battery is a good quality one, as is the charger. But I'm wary of giving you the standard advice - i mean shit, as has been noted, we don't get many people whose first 'ambestestgnu' post is a FAL and, even more impressively, once directed to wombat machines, you came back with an AK! Good man yourself! To advise you better we need to know some stuff: how old are you? Does £200 sound like an easy sum to put together for a laugh, or more like a wallet frightener? Do you know anyone who is into airsoft? Where are you based and do you know where your nearest site is? Woodland or Urban/CQB (Close Quarter Battle)? In general, do you prefer stuff which many people have, or do you like your stuff to be unusual? The guns you chose: JG FAL - Jing Gong guns are Chinese, mostly either direct Tokyo Marui clones or developed from those clones. They are generally pretty good, although I don't think any of them stand out as being excellent (unlike some CYMA guns who are also a Chinese company who began by making TM clones). In this case though I suspect JG have based it on a King Arms design. The KA FAL is a decent gun, so I expect the JG is too, but probably not as robust. "Full Metal" in this case refers to zinc alloy, AKA 'pot metal', mind which is heavy and not much, if at all, stronger than good quality ABS plastic. I have never heard anyone in a position to know say that JG's EBB mechanism is inherently bollocks, but obviously an EBB gun has more to go wrong with it than an ordinary AEG and if there is one thing pot metal is famous for, it's metal fatigue induced cracks... Personally I would not pay £200+P&P for a pot metal gun, EBB or not, unless I had a real thing for that gun model and there was no other option. I also would not buy from a website with bbguns in the name unless they had something I really wanted and could not find in stock elsewhere - for eg Well R2 stamped steel midcap mags which are also compatible with my JG V61 Scorpion (a TM Clone which is very good) / guess what? Even though the price was ridiculous I bought 1... and now they are back in stock on the HK retail sites grrrrrrrrr! Before thinking of buying this you should find out what mags it will take, how available they are, and how much they cost. G&G RK47 - these are good guns. There is a bit of flex in the plastic body which makes it more resilient than a pot metal one - the hop up control is quite sensitive so setting it to achieve absolute max range is easy and accuracy is decent. IIrc they may be a little finicky over which mags will work in them, but the standard reasonable priced option most people go for, MAG, work in them just fine. This type with black polymer furniture look a lot better than cheap AK's with faux wood plastic furniture (which are really shit). If you want to swap furniture in future, to fit rails for accessories for eg, you may have to do a bit of dremmeling because G&G guns don't usually take 'standard' exterior parts.

I have to say I'm pretty impressed by the data James is quoting above, but I believe that the performance of your hop set up is key to matching those results. In my experience you can have to put the hop on so much to lift heavy BB's that you do not get the benefits of extra range, because the power is reduced. The best bet then is to experiment. But an SR-25 really should be putting out enough power that 0.25g is the minimum weight to use. Still, just because an AEG looks like a DMR doesn't mean it has the internals to perform as one. If you don't want to up the power to 1.6-ish Joules, a DMR should still be consistently very close to your fav site's limit. Consistency can be increased by a better air seal, which also increases the power without changing the spring, and increases accuracy, since the BBs' trajectory will be more similar.

I use the fabric drop leg holsters everyone hates lol! I have modified my OD and DPM ones with additional straps though, to stop the famous "flapping about". The one running up beside my packet is linked to the leg strap by a tube of 50mm elastic - it is there to stop the leg strap from slipping down my thigh and becoming loose. As Ed said of his, it is like it's welded in place. Both are excellent for quick draw, but getting the studs which lock the retaining straps done up again is a bit fiddly - that's why I use a lanyard, because under pressure i would not be able to do it. These are for my USP which weighs 790g including a CO2 bulb. A loaded spare mag weighs 280g. So yeah, without this additional strappage it would be a right mare... I have a black fabric drop leg also but this has an original strap higher up than most and neither of its straps are elastic - I really should make a crotch strap for it also, but I rarely wear my black kit so i never get around to it. Now that I have a spare mag for my USP this is something I really should do soon. I recently bought some 50mm OD webbing to make a drop leg set up with a serpa for my USP, to overcome the secure reholstering issue. I have tried the serpa on my waist belts, right hip, above left buttock, and left front cross draw, but it is not as comfortable for me to reach for as from my right thigh - my arms are too long. I spose I could go with a drop leg platform, but to get one with 2 straps so it is immobile means quite a lot of additional weight, just for something which can be attached by one fat and one thin strap. I have yet to try the serpa on my chest, molle'd to my RICAS. What I'd really like to try is to have it fixed to my left shoulder, at 45° so the grip is at the same angle as my arm when I draw it. To do this needs an additional panel of molle above that on the chest of my RICAS, but that said, I don't wear it often - it makes me too hot. I carry my Vz61 Skorpion as a sidearm too, in a modified Czech Police holster: That goes on my Soviet portupeya (faux leather webbing) right hip but it moves about a bit - I have a small leather strap which came off an East German AK sling which fits around the portupeya waist belt and sorta stops this massive leather holster from slipping forward, but I need a better solution. It's not much good for quick draw. You can also see my PM holster there, which I wear left of my belt buckle in the cross draw position. That said the only pistols I have which fit in it are either poxy or too hot for most sites, so it's decoration really. Which is just as well because it's really bad for quick draw... I also have a massive black drop leg which is intended for MP7's which fits my skorpion nicely. Trouble is it suffers really badly from drop-leg-flap. There isn't anywhere on it that immediately lends itself to having an additional strap attached, so I think the way forward with that will be to remove the top elasticated strap and replace with 50mm polypropylene webbing. I do like the look of that Stealth Weapons Catch though, which would allow me to carry the skorpion with a suppressor attached.

Boots? You don't need a pistol. They are fun and of course there are 'pistol only' games here and there, but you'd almost certainly get more use out of a BFG or even a back up AEG. How are you doing for batteries and charger? Cleaning rod and alcohol swabs? Silicone oil? You may find that a shemagh over your mouth makes you uncomfortably hot, but everyone has their own attitude towards the risk of losing teeth. Personally the idea gives me the shivers so I run mesh masks = ultimate BB protection and not sweaty like a cloth solution.

^^That beats the living piss out of any gun built on the AR platform, not just any M4. But it does need a darker finish... = : wub : without the spaces

Yeah, that way you don't even have to go to hospital... ...to get MRSA, C. dificile, E. coli, the lurgy, Z1, etc.

2 x Silverback 160rnd midcaps for PP-19 Bizon-2 - HK$489.76 (£40+change) posted ~ airsoft.tiger111hk

Broken Link, Sarge! I swear it's starting to feel like the universe is against me on this one

Don't mate - i've just realised that i need to spend money on SPOSN mag pouches sooner than i had anticipated.

Cheers Sarge. Bummer about having to go military, but I have the kit - i'll wear my modern KZS and Splav/SPOSN webbing - if I can get it clean and balistic-ok before then, a black PBF respirator i bought t'other week (for the orangutan look) - i'll have to get a berezhka bandana for when the sweat starts sloshing around inside it tho lol! Hmmm... only truly modern gun i'll have will be the Bizon i'm still awaiting in the post, or the franken-AK build that i'm currently doing and i don't have mag pouches for either yet... finger = out

^^No, Birmingham Armoury / Tenbury Guns do not have them - they do have 12 pages of ASG stuff though... the wankers!

@dapprman: nice! Where from and how much?

Actually I need to rephrase what I said above. What I meant was that, in this thread, I find what Mr Monkey Nuts has written patronising and lacking in imagination, not that he is either of those in general. As far as I'm aware he is a decent enough bloke and is without doubt a valuable member here, in that he has opinions and states them. Whether I agree with them in this instance or not, the forum thrives on discussion and we often learn something from disagreements, so long as, like here, they remain civil.

Is that S.T.A.L.K.E.R. game at MCG The Gaol, Sarge? I'm supposed to be going but I haven't sorted out a ticket or even checked kit requirements, basically just said "yeah" to an offer to go with Bottledtorment and a mate of his. Do you have a linky, or is it just find it/or not on their bloody fb page? What guns are you taking?

Lovely, Russe11, just lovely. Here's my latest acquisition: It's to add to the arsenal available to... ...Maiya Pavlenka

Well Mr MN, I find you quite patronising and lacking imagination. Just because accidents and violence which result in heavy blood loss are not common events, that doesn't mean that I, or anybody else reading this, hasn't seen it happen, or been involved. Certainly blood has a way of seeming like more than it actually is and, if someone turns up when it is already on the ground (in the clothes, covering the hands, spattering faces, on the foliage, etc), it may indeed be difficult to tell 3L from 1L, however if even the dopiest person to ever wield an AEG came across somebody with bright red blood spurting out of a wound around the fingers of the desperate casualty, they would very quickly be able to tell that if blood is not prevented from spurting out quite soon, the casualty will die. It doesn't matter how much is already out, it's the rate at which it keeps coming out and the state of the casualty. If s/he has blue lips and grey skin, is out cold, and the blood is losing power in how far it sprays, it is clearly because no matter how much has come out, it is too much. At which point the urgency of the situation has gone from "Shit, I need to do whatever I fully understand to try to stabilise him/her until paramedics arrive," to "Shit, unless someone can tell me for sure that paramedics will be here in 3mins or less, we need to do whatever we can, because otherwise it won't matter." Of course it helps if you have picked up tips from healthcare professionals, like if you pinch the skin immediately above the biceps hard and there is no change in pallor nor slight reddening around the imprint when you let go, the casualty has dangerously low blood pressure (and that works on people with any skin colour), or if someone is unconscious you can find out if that is because they have passed out due to fear (erroneously referred to as 'passing out from shock'), or whether it has resulted from damage caused by the injury, by rubbing your knuckles hard up and down the breastbone - it hurts enough to bring you round if you can come round. If you can't get at the breastbone, you can stick your fingers into the armpit and squeeze the pectoral muscle with your thumb to get the same wakeup pain effect. Or my personal favourite for when performing CPR, "If you don't break at least one rib, you're not doing it properly!"

The only Galil top cover I can find sold as an individual part is this... ...ICS Upper Railed Housing Cover for ICS Galil Series (MG-35) from Evike for $35 It's not as pig ugly as the ACM tri-rail type... ...but it's not far off. I found this one, which i've seen available on a couple of sites (just not with a big picture url available lol), but i'm not sure... (you can see it larger here) ...I sorta like the idea of a bolt through the rear sight pivot holes as a hinge, but that would mean that the cover itself would have to be short enough not to lock under the barrel base assembly as normal, or putting that bolt in would lock the cover in place, so it would have to fit millimetre perfect in both the distances from that pivot bolt to the rear of the barrel base assembly and from the pivot bolt to where the cover fits over the end of the receiver. Plus wtf are those bolt holes on either side of the square latch hole for? I've seen holes like that somewhere else, possibly somewhere other than some incarnations of the hideous tri-rail top cover, but never known what they are for. I've never seen a battery tray with holes to accept bolts there. Maybe the cover is made loose enough to fit any AK and those bolts are to tension the cover against the latch when it is in place, to stop it rattling? If so that's no good to me because I've stopped using those battery trays in my AK's to get more space for a LiPo battery. I cut a slot into the gearbox top retaining strap to jam the flange for the bolt handle spring to push against. I dunno - I'm tempted to just get a ridged top cover and see how i go with the 3" rail leaf sight replacement i have... Does anyone know how these attach at the rear? ...it looks like the top cover is supposed to hold it in place, to me. But all of my AK's have a bit of receiver in the way, a sort of flange that the top cover sits in front of... Any ideas, anyone?

I sit corrected. Nevertheless, you would have to try hard to balls up manufacturing such simple exterior parts and still end up with an object which resembled a working torch. That's not to say that electronics cannot fail however. Personally I would have reservations about an aluminium RIS from an unknown Chinese production line if I intended to use it on a real firearm, unless I had confidence in the brand name for quality control, because the stress involved in recoil is considerable and the consequences of failure of a weapon in real life shooting situations could be fatal. But a torch for airsofting? I'm happy to conduct my own quality control testing... So far, out of 3 UltraFire torches, 1 partially failed. Bad odds, but it was replaced with no quibble and I had to wait no longer than I would have had to for a package from the USA; about a week iirc. But for less than half what I would have to pay for a single posh name brand one I got 3 good torches, 1 18650 battery and single charger, and 4 good quality mounts (3 rail and 1 barrel), plus i sold the busted one as a 'no mode' (full power or off) for about a tenner iirc, possibly more actually as it was to some random person on fb.

I agree that some things cannot be produced well cheaply, so if you buy cheap you will by twice. But torches do not have moving parts that wear out easily, even if they're made from cheap materials. But aircraft grade aluminium, 7075, is cheap, as is brass, no matter who the manufacturer is, but more importantly who the trademark owner is, because they're all made on Chinese production lines no matter what badge they end up with. Maybe the paint will wear off an UltraFire faster than it will off a SureFire, but they'll both either fail quickly due to some manufacturing fault, or go on for donkey's years.