Ian_Gere

So Mr MM, would you suggest that a person should not make the best of their limited knowledge, when applying pressure to a wound is not preventing arterial blood from leaking and the ambulance is at least 15mins away?

Yeah, TBH anything other than those 220rnd short hicaps may be awkward with a foregrip. Ideally what I need is a rail adapter that adds some extra rail length forward. I've never seen one like I'm imagining though. I'll do a mock up pic in a while. Edit to add: I'm obviously not familiar enough with what a gwaan because... If it does turn out to be awkward i could stick this on upside down and move the foregrip forward.

42 quid's worth of Krylon from Patrol Base.

Yeah Richie, that looks very similar to the one i've had for a couple of years - TBH there's no real need for the extra brightness I get from the 2 x 18650's and the small one is obviously lighter to carry / unbalances your gun less. NH - anecdotal indeed: what else is a forum? I have had issues - the 1st one of these longer double battery ones i bought gave up the ghost after a couple of days - the mode select got jammed so it only worked on full power or off. They sent me a replacement, no quibble.

Well I've had that torch over a year and skirmished it a few times - plus another one which runs off 1 18650 battery which i've had for a couple of years and skirmished more times than i can remember. Both still going strong. Both made from 7075 aluminium the same as a more expensive one. But hey, all i can do is tell you and show you. It's up to you to decide what to do with the info.

I like it. No, really... I mean, i get it that it's not normal. But it's the very novelty that does it for me... Thanks for doing that, against your principles and all!

Aha! Well, let's have it right, gentlemen... that is an eminently plausible gun! Any way we could see it with the HM/CM stock, Monty? Oh and bloody hell, thanks mate! Just bought the last CYMA 2500rnds AK drum mag from dualdealshop for £39.50

No, I've made the decision to break with Russian design for the stock specifically so that I can have an extendible one - I have long arms and stock length is something that bugs me about a lot of guns. The only one I have which fits me comfortably without obvious modification is on Jetta my G36KV - Svetlana the SVD has 40mm of oak attached in place of her butt plate - Sabine my CM.028U has a random piece of rubber which i think fell off a car taped to her her foldible stock (but it could do with being thicker) and Morena my CM.048 has one of those Element rubber butt pads, which again could do with being thicker. I've got 3 RPK-74 midcaps and 1 hicap, but I don't want that long look, or the restriction it creates on aiming while prone. The idea for this build is 'solid but sleek'... I don't actually have any RPK mag pouches mind. I'm going to buy at least 1 double modern RPK pouch soon to carry a spare tube mag for a PP-19 Bizon as a sniper back up, so I spose I should go ahead and buy at least 1 more (the PP-19 is coming with 4 mags though so in theory i need 3 double RPK mag pouches) because I intend to find out what is stopping Phatima AKS-74U from feeding BB's properly and begin using her as a primary again. TBH, if there was a way to do it without building the whole gun from scratch out of sheet steel and aluminium blocks, with a CAD set up and CNC mill, I'd love to have a horizontal drum mag, like that yank submachinegun with the ridiculous ROF, so all modern looking, not like a Lewis Gun. Don't worry about hijacking the thread, Straff - your gun is not too dissimilar so it makes sense to share a thread on their builds. As i said above, my main reason for this thread is to get opinions and the more options we consider between the 2 guns, the better afaiac. Eventually I'll be choosing internals as well, so it'll be a resource for anyone who wants to build funky AK's. Are you planning any internal upgrades also? I do quite like that top cover, although I would put a short rail on it, possibly riveted on to reduce the size of the bit inside, to leave more battery space, because 11.1V LiPo's don't go under AK top covers without a bit of persuasion as is - no need to make it smaller with nuts and bolts. I've only recently started using red dot sights properly and i'm hooked - it is a better way of target acquisition than what i tend to do which is watch the trajectory of the BB over the irons and correct for the next shot. Monty, thanks for doing that, mate Is there any way you could do a similar mock up using the LR300 stock and a drum mag?

The advice on tourniquets has changed many times over the years - TBH I've not bothered keeping up to date. My attitude towards them is that you wouldn't even think of using one unless there was bright red blood pumping out of the casualty and pressure on the apparent wound site was not controlling it. These are the circumstances where the best and most sensible courses of action for most injuries go out of the window. People can and do bleed to death from the femoral or brachial artery in just a few minutes. Yeah, get someone to call an ambulance, but if you are johnny on the spot - the only person who has a clue and the confidence to proceed, stopping the red stuff coming out is the priority and until that is achieved, even things like cleanliness are not important if they slow you down... give the gawkers something to do, tell them to phone, to find sterile gloves, to run for the site's 1st aid kit and firstaider, to talk to the casualty and take note of any allergies, existing medical conditions and medication, family history of illness, etc in case the cazh passes out before the ambulance service are on the phone and/or arrive. A person may lose a hand or a foot due to poor tourniquet practice, although once the ambulance does arrive they will ask when it was put on and take over so that is unlikely. However, just as the kind of wounds which may require such drastic measures are very rare, but worth considering because of their dire nature, it is worth considering the worst possible outcomes, and that would be a real pisser. However, for it to be such a pisser, the injured person would have to be alive... I would hope that nobody would sit there without even trying to use a belt, a gun sling, some paracord, a bit of rope, fencing wire, etc. while a person bled to death because their mates were unsure whether it was 1" above the closest undamaged fleshy part or 2", whether it should be loosened after 15mins or 10, or what should they do if they didn't have a permanent marker to write the time it was applied on the patient's body... BTW, while we're on the subject, what is the current thinking on how to use tourniquets? I have an issue CAT, but it's attached to the stock of my tac AK for the look, not something I always carry. I've held an Element replica and i'd say that the only real difference is that the plastic rod on the airsoft one may not be as rigid as the issue ones - i haven't actually put one under any great strain though - it just feels like the kind of plastic washing up bowls etc are made from as opposed to high quality nylon.

Although I'm still a big fan of the CREE XM-L T6 LED, there is a new one emerging which i've seen called CREE XM-L2 and also XM-L U2 which is likely to be even better. Be under no illusion that you are getting a better LED in a £70 or even £170 torch. These LED's are the state of the art as far as mass production goes. For sure the circuitry which controls the modes will be more reliable. The O-rings likely provide a more reliable watertight seal. The switches may last a few hundred thousand more pushes. But for sheer brightness per volt, you are not going to get more from an expensive torch. Bear in mind that at these voltages a watertight seal is not necessary to remain functioning - there is not enough voltage to cause a failure inducing short through water; not even salt water, even though that would bleed off some of the power available to the LED.

Well yeah, and there's a lot of science into getting people to believe that a brand name indicates high quality, even though the item in question is manufactured in the same factory, or one similar in some other part of China... My cheap UltraFire stuff runs at about £12 and here it is... ...and here is a pic i've just taken out of my back window - the house being illuminated is 60m-ish away, probably a couple more: I would like to show you that with the bezel on full zoom the trees planted on the opposite side of the main road at the bottom of the slope onto which this window looks are illuminated well enough to see movement clearly and to distinguish the shape of people from foliage, unless their camo was designed for night use and they knew how to hide in such a way that their head was not viewable as a silhouette against a simple background. The trees are about 115m away, maybe a bit more. They are the ones you can see in silhouette above. The problem is that when pointing the torch that way, there are a number of rooftops which are illuminated so brightly that they cause the software of my phone cam to adjust the brightness of the whole image to avoid whiteout and to focus on those lighter areas closer to the camera, which makes the trees appear very dark.

Where did you buy the 0.23g Blasters from?

Woohoo! The 1st one I bought got lost in the polish post somewhere in Warsaw... ...but the seller not only sent me another but added my choice of small present! Soviet tank driver's gen 1+ night vision helmet with all the trimmings! I'm so excited! I hardly dare touch it just in case it doesn't work, because I'm so chuffed to have it that i'd be almost suicidal if it turns out to be fucked - the ebay seller deals in ex military electrical and electronic gear though and they advertise them as tested working. I've got a battery charging now... fingers, toes & bollocks crossed! Edit to add: the pressie? A German Army hard carry case, perfect for pistols: I'm on a roll me just bought: Russian Army PM Belt Holster Olive SPOSN - £15.02 Russian Army Spetsnaz AK Sling SPOSN "Trehtochechnik" Olive SSO - £13.21 +£12 P&P ~ chaka98 fleabay NNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it's not working - emailing for tech support now :'(

You too? At The Stan a couple of years ago I was leaning around a bush, on uneven ground so one leg was outstretched and the other scrunched up, which stretched my kecks tight across my arse. Someone had managed to creep pretty close without me noticing... an actual double tap to the anus. Literally the bum hole. After day 2 I stopped eating. At the time it got nothing more than a grunt from me. I mean it hurt, but it was more of a surprise than pain. Maybe it was just because i was well adrenalised... The game was a "Blackhawk Down" defend the chopper game (although the chopper was left to our imagination) - a small area with limited cover and the opposition given free reign across the courtyard to attack from approx 120 degrees of approach, with 2 snipers on the roof of the building opposite at whom we could not return fire (because the site is surrounded by active businesses and houses so you can't shoot up as BB's could leave the site) - so it was pretty hectic! Anyway, by the time I got home it was sore. After the 1st crap it was very sore. Later that day i bought some haemorrhoid (and try spelling that without recourse to google) cream. After the 2nd crap I decided i didn't want to risk a 3rd until it had healed a bit :'( Yeah, it's funny. Even I find it funny now. By day 2 after the hit it was really not funny. As it happens I often wear a custom bum-rig which is a waterproof pad hanging from elastic straps from my belt, to put something i can sit down on no matter the terrain, because i have a medical condition which causes a lot of pain in my extremeties - sometimes i just have to sit to get off my feet. Didn't think i'd need it in a CQB venue. When I 1st started wearing that a few people took the piss. A few people asked about it and although they didn't say anything I could tell they thought i was mental. I used to say "you'll all be wearing them soon". If you look at pics of Russian SF these days... yeah, they have them. Russian Army Sitting Mat SPOSN

Hmmmm... after putting the skeleton foregrip in the pic, i'm now wondering if it will actually fit. I may have to grind down some of the parts on either side of the rail clamps. It's difficult to gauge how much to expand pics grabbed from different sites to fit them against pics i took with my phone. Looking at it now, maybe i've made the saw style pistol grip too big. The receivers are different - this has the classic AK-47 collar which a short AK grip fits against but the G&P one I've ordered with this style of grip doesn't have it and I sized the saw grip pic insert to fit the width of that collar... Ah well, we shall soon see. And Finius, you will come So my friends, the choice of stock is narrowed to either the LR300, or the HM/CM ultra-modern looking one. Mag choice is either: plain AK-74, which goes with the PBS-4 but not the receiver and I have several so don't need to buy any more; plain AK-47, which goes with the receiver but not the suppressor and I also have several; short AK-47, which offers the same dilemma but fits my vision of 'submachinegun stylee an ting', of which I have 1 only AK-47 drum mag, also the same dilemma but possibly very cool :/ and i'd need to buy one I think that for the time being the side mount is off the table. I may revisit it when i have the receiver and whichever stock I choose. Which leaves MRDS, forward mounted red dot, either the C-More I already have or perhaps a 551 or 556, or a top cover with a rail attached, which would leave the choice of which optic very much more open, perhaps the 551 with EOLAD laser I have, because it doesn't really work with my G36KV. I'd appreciate your thoughts, people.

Mate, i have been so fucked up recently that i haven't spent much. I have the wonga to proceed and, having discovered some really sexy parts within my financial reach, proceed i shall! Right, I've made a decision - the skeleton foregrip it is. Just as well because having bought the dark earth one because black was oos, DE is now oos also. Phew! I absolutely hate it when I think i probably will buy something and by the time i get round to it they run out of stock V^^VGrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! I was intending to buy a really cool sling from chaka98 on fleabay for the PP-19 Bizon i'm buying, but that has gone oos :'(

That's a good idea with the tourniquet - it would look similar to how they do wrapped around the under folding AK-47S stock. But I think I'll not use that stock now. As I said above, yeah you're right, but nonetheless it will make a gun on which I can put the PBS-4 I have to use, so I'm going ahead with it. Yeah I'm not choosing a metal receiver out of any snobbery. That picture above which I've used to illustrate what the gun will look like with the decisions I've already made / parts i already have is the plastic body of my CM.028U and even though I have put it through a fair bit of abuse, it still looks good imo. But it just wouldn't be heavy enough to balance the suppressor. There are a few different makes of PBS-4 and probably there are lighter ones, although I suspect they may be the $80+ ones. Maybe mine is zamak not aluminium, I dunno as neither are magnetic, but the point is I have it and so I want to use it. I think it would be quite difficult to sell anyway.

They are RPK mags. IRL they are also used with AKS-74Us. They are not as common in airsoft retailers as 47 and 74 mags, but they're not hard to find.

Yeah, a side mount is always going to be a potential problem with a folding stock, although the LR300 one looks like the hinge is quite wide, that the folded stock would not be right against the receiver, but I agree the HM/CM one does look the total db. It may be worth doing without the side mount just for the sake of having it! TBH I had not even considered how low those rails are. You might be right that they would interfere with the grip and yeah, i know what you mean about "too complex" - it does look a bit like something designed to be used on the space shuttle or something! It would be the most difficult of the 3 to add weight to without looking horribly bodged, if it turned out to be too light. I think that's that one consigned to the bin. But no, I'm not going for a buffer tube style stock at all - they all look yank, and while Russe11 is right about the LR300 being basically an M4 stock, it doesn't actually look like American design. If you mean one of these, yeah mine is usually in my bits box too! I suspect that the skeleton grip may be heavier than this proj calls for, especially if, as i've just thought, I add one of those rail extensions so I could mount a torch as well, but it does look soooooo cool lol! I can imagine what you mean there but i'm not sure i've seen that kind of top cover for sale as an individual part. Have you got a link? There is this type which patrolbase used to sell... ...which are oos. But they are a lot better looking than those hideous fuckers with a massive tri-rail lump all along the top cover. Yeah, pull your finger out! Get your AK out for the lads!

Sort of, but not really - the Beta Spetsnaz front end is shorter than an AKS-74U by 2" / not a lot but crucial to the centre of gravity when you consider how heavy the suppressor is. That's a good point! The thing is there is no real steel Beta Spetsnaz AK-47 afaik. Like the G3 SAS and M4's without a buffer tube, it's an airsoft only creation.* So I have far less scruples about taking liberties with the overall design, although I will get a ribbed top cover, because that will hint at being chambered for 5.45mm ammunition which is correct for the PBS-4 suppressor. *And if you think about it you couldn't control a gun that short firing 7.62mm rounds - the slanted AKM compensator is designed to bring some control to the AK-47's major problem regarding accuracy, ie muzzle climb. The AKS-74U also has a problem with jams caused by insufficient gas pressure on the piston - the rumour is that the PBS-4 is designed to overcome that issue / for either of these reasons the Beta Spetsnaz would fail irl. I hadn't thought of either. The thing is that part of my motivation is to use stuff which I already have. I bought the BS front end basically to make an AK to sell out of my bits box, because they are pretty popular. But since John ran off with the parts which would have been crucial to my schedule of projects, I've reassessed what i'm doing. TBH i can't see how i could attach a tube mounted stock to an airsoft AK wooden stock, because the interior is drilled out for the stock lug and to allow for wiring. I'm just not going to buy another real steel stock and then saw it down to shape a tube from it. I spose i could just start with a piece of hardwood tho, but then i would want wooden hand guards... I have some faux wood plastic handguards the right length, but they look shit.

Yeah, frontowiec are good - their prices are decent and they don't make it back by charging stupid money for shipping. More stuff for me: G&P Metal Body, Steel Top Cover & Saw Style Grip f/ AK - $53.00 King Arms Enlarged Lever AK Trigger Guard - $2.00 King Arms 150% Recoil Spring & Hammer Spring for WA Infinity - $2.00 (looks handy) Milspec Monkey Bunny Girl - $2.00 Milspec Monkey Gothy Girl Pirate - $2.00 +$8-odd Shipping from UNCompany They are having a sale on some decent kit so well worth having a look, even though their order process isn't as straightforward as just click 'Buy' - you have to wait for their confirmation email. I bought those springs just because they look like they might be useful eventually and for 2 dollars, may as well... C.M. Aluminium Long Fore Grip (DE) - $21.00 LCT Bakelite Effect Pistol Grip f/ AK-74 - $15.00 (look at this ) -$3.00 Discount for using PayPal + Shipping = Total $43.70

I love the look of PBS-4 suppressors. The design seems to shout, "We're Russian: we don't care what you think of it; you'll be smirking on the other side of your face when it's pointed at you!" And I have an aluminium one which is approx 45mm wide across the 'bottle', but with an internal diameter of about 26mm, and 'neck' OD of approx 28mm / ID 8mm - so it weighs 540g, which is bloody heavy to have on the end of even a short barrel like an AKS-74U, which is what the real steel was made for. Now Phatima, my Krinkov, is ICS and full steel, so you'd think that the weight would balance ok... but it doesn't, not with the stock extended let alone folded. It makes carrying her for long periods annoying due to being front-heavy - the stock, although steel, is after all just a couple of U section rods and a connecting piece. I had been planning a build based on a G&P aluminium receiver and a real 'steel' Izhmash manufactured wooden '74 stock which, had it still proved too light, I could have stuffed with a heavy iron bar in the space for the cleaning tool cylinder*. But the bloke whom I had asked to drill the stock out for me so that the receiver lug would fit into it (whom i had considered, if not a friend exactly, someone with whom I was on good matey terms and he was also my downstairs neighbour ffs) has disappeared with both the receiver and stock. I mean, what a cunt! He's not even into airsoft and it's not like i was asking him to do it for free either - there was a drink in it for him. V^^VGrrrrrrrrrrrrr! *I have 4 of these bars which came inside a crappy bright orange springer Beretta CX4 Storm which I bought in the hope of being able to turn it into an AEG for a Battlestar Galactica loadout - yeah, well internally it is so shit that the only way to do it would be to basically smother everything in place with a hot glue gun, so that has gone firmly on the back burner until I come up with a better idea or can be arsed to create some kind of mould I can grease up so the hot glue doesn't stick so I can then fit AEG innards into the spaces left when it hardens. In the meantime These lumps of iron have proved far more useful than i would have imagined, had i known they were inside when i bought the poxy thing. But, as is my wont, I digress... But then I picked up some of an AK-47 Beta Spetsnaz front end dirt cheap. It's plastic but surprisingly decent quality, so possibly TM, and I have a few bits spare like the end caps for handguards, rear sights, screws, bolts, body pins... so a plan began to form in my mind - a very short AK with light forward parts and heavier rear end (and by all means go there gentlemen, I may be too jaded to make the effort for such little reward, but I'm as likely to snigger at Beavis & Butt Head -esque comments as the next overgrown boy). The initial problem is that there is no steel receiver within my budget (possibly no longer being manufactured) which will fit with the TM barrel base assembly, only VFC / LCT clones. With those I can find available being much of a muchness in terms of no side rail mount, I'm fairly well decided on buying another G&P receiver - the last one I had was good and robust and then there is the few tines of extra metal sticking out the back to attach the stock, compared to the King Arms, Classic Army and TM Clones plus it has a more substantial stock-lug than the G&G, which is also magnesium, so probably lighter than I'm after. So the plan thus far will look like this, but without the trades... I also really dislike the look of Crane stocks and their ilk, but I do want an extendible stock on this gun, plus for the role I have in mind, FIBUA, a folding stock would also be a bonus (more on the 'logic' of the gun later). I do like the look of those LR300 stocks and since they are made from quite chunky metal, that would fit the plan. Like this... The other week I ordered an Ak to M4 Stock Adapter which will fit the G&P style AK Receiver, so this type of stock will work and at 750g it should do the trick of balancing the gun even folded, but when i went looking for one I came across another couple which I think could look great too, so now I can't decide... ...I wasn't sure this^^ Tanker style one would be heavy enough to balance the suppressor, but according to airsoft-club they weigh 1/2 a Kilo. But there's also this which I've seen called both HM and CM (any help with the name wba): ...which weighs 550g and the way it folds up like that is tdb for packing into a kitbag! I'll also need a vertical foregrip which needs to be light. Really it ought to combine a torch mount, because there isn't enough rail space for a separate piece of kit, but there are very few i like the look of. There's no way i'm spending $60+ on one either when i can get a better torch for <$15 I love the look of these: ...but i've only seen them @wgc and black is oos. Still, I'm going to paint it all anyway so i could get a tan one. Can you imagine that in front of an AK drum mag? Tomski gun! Not sure that I will use a drum mag, but I definitely don't want it as tall as Phatima with an RPK mag, perhaps not as tall as a '47 banana-mag, but if i was going to put up with the rattle from those 220rnd short AK hicaps, i may as well put a 2500rnd drum on it and save myself the blasted winding! If I did go for the last of these three stocks, maybe a foregrip like this would suit the style better: It'll also need a red dot, because the front and rear irons are far too close together. I have two different rear sight replacement mounts, one for a Docter MRDS and the other which puts a 3" rail above where the sights go, so i could use my C-more clone as i have a Kobra clone on order for Morena, my AK-74. I dunno though - for balance it may turn out better to have the optic above the top cover and I do have a spare side mount which i could attempt to fit, but i have to say i'm not convinced that without workshop tools i could fit it well enough to use and i also have my doubts about the width of the nut vs the width of the gearbox. I'm not sure i could bring myself to get one of those top cover mounted rails though. I dunno, i expect that if there is a centre of gravity problem I could sort it out by gaffer taping an iron rod to whichever stock i choose - i've done that on Sabine to offset her aluminium RAS vs plastic receiver and it looks fine and feels way better for her being heavier per se. Anyway people, opinions please and any suggestions for stuff i haven't mentioned would be greatly appreciated.

Well it's good to pass on stuff people passed on to me and the bits i've picked up for myself; paying it forward, etc. but also i'm not a well man so rabbiting online helps take my mind off what would otherwise be a fucking depressing situation so yeah, you're welcome! The reason the nozzle behaves like that is because when you pull the trigger on semi the motor only spins long enough for the GB to complete one cycle, no matter how long you hold the trigger down. On full-auto the motor spins until you release the trigger, so it often ends up stopping part way through a cycle, with the nozzle partially, or fully retracted. It stays that way even though the main spring is partially compressed because the anti-reversal latch does what it says, prevents the GB from spinning backwards. Come to think of it, if i ever knew if there's a mechanical reason why that would be bad I can't currently tell you, but electrically spinning the motor backwards generates a current which can damage the windings. There is one other often forgotten part which we have so far... forgotten the latch of the mags. I can't think of a reason why it should behave differently for different BB weights, but I can't think of a good reason for this phenomena full stop. It may be worth oiling them (a single drop will more than do it) and giving them a good wiggle. Obviously this catch has to function correctly for BB's to even leave the mag. It's also the case that different mags interface with the hop unit feed tube ever so slightly differently, which may be why the hicap is working. Hey, it's a theory and whilst it only holds slightly more water than a sieve, for the cost of a few drops of oil, it's worth a bash... Did you try oiling the BB tubes of the midcaps?

That's a nice suppr tin of beans you've got there, Baz!

I'll just leave that there. If the selector plate doesn't push the opposite end from the part of the cut off lever which presses against the sector gear cam, it is too high... and as Samurai said, you should shim the gears, but also, depending on the shape of the cam*, the width and shape of the cut off lever, and the height of the shims needed for the sector gear to clear the spur gear, you can end up with poor contact between lever and cam, only part of the width of each, and the less contact the more pressure the metal is under. That's fine if you have a steel cut off lever, but a pot metal one can break. Putting one factory shim under it must lessen that pressure, but I wouldn't go higher than that, because there is very little extra width on the selector plate end (without getting the micrometer out, the ones i have lurking in my bits box look to be mostly 0.2mm but some are thicker, probably 0.3mm). *I have seen at least one sector gear which has an extra bit on the cam, like a pre-moulded shim. When the cam presses against the cut off lever, the spring pushes back, so it acts as a brake on the spinning sector gear. Obviously if the lever is not engaging with the cam, the gear would spin completely freely.