bitofanidiot42

I will personally find you and remove it from your possession.
 

I will personally find you and remove it from your possession.
 

I will personally find you and remove it from your possession.
 

I will personally find you and remove it from your possession.
 

So an update.
The British collection so far. 
 
Law 66
L115A1 (Aw338)
L100A1 (G3A4)
L85A2/L123A2
l85A2 TES
L128A1 (M1014 shotgun)
L74A1 (870 shotgun)
L91A1 (MP5 SD)
L7A2 GPMG 
L108A1 (MK1 Minimi)
L1A1 SLR
Colt model 715 (C7)
L119A1 SFW
L119A1 CQB
L92A1 (MP5 A3 embassy seige) 
L131A1 (Glock 17 gen 4)
L105A2 (P226R)
L9A1 (Browning HI Power)
L85A2 (3 Para 2008)
Colt model 725 (C8)
L105A1 (P226 non railed)
L22A2 
L86A2
 

 

Tried the Spectre on the 249, looks good I think and works well.

Behold! 
The Billund Marui 1911:
-Great performance out of the box
-Good-feeling, high quality polymer frame and slide all the way from Denmark
-Fully LEGO compatible allows for the sea of aftermarket parts to be fitted
-Just don’t expect much out of a melée (warranty becomes invalid)

Behold! 
The Billund Marui 1911:
-Great performance out of the box
-Good-feeling, high quality polymer frame and slide all the way from Denmark
-Fully LEGO compatible allows for the sea of aftermarket parts to be fitted
-Just don’t expect much out of a melée (warranty becomes invalid)

Behold! 
The Billund Marui 1911:
-Great performance out of the box
-Good-feeling, high quality polymer frame and slide all the way from Denmark
-Fully LEGO compatible allows for the sea of aftermarket parts to be fitted
-Just don’t expect much out of a melée (warranty becomes invalid)

On my limited budget, I have bought a second hand Army R28 in two tone blue, hoping the cheap price won’t mean cheap QC. Only sign of wear is a tiny chip on the plastic grip.
I could always upgrade it when I raise my budget, it’s TM compatible.

I’m confused and my head’s spinning, my grasp on electricity is not good! 
Why do amps matter and not watts? Isn’t current just watts or amps? 
I’m probably making a fool of myself but everything I search up doesn’t seem to make sense, I just know that volts is the amount electricity that can get in and amps are how fast the electricity is flowing.

I think I’ve learned what I came here for.
My conclusion is that a 7.4 Lipo will give a higher rpm than a 7.2 but the fps is always the same, I should probably get an m90 and hack away at the gearbox. It doesn’t matter too much for the rpm as my local site seldom allows full-auto.
 
As for MOSFET’s, they are for high power batteries to stop the carbon hurting the gun so quickly. They can be expensive and fancy and programmable or cheaper but not absolutely necessary for a cheaper gun as replacing the trigger contacts isn’t the end of the world (although they are becoming harder to find in the U.K.).

Nope,  think what the motor is doing.  Its pulling back a piston against a spring until it releases at a certain point.
If it does it quickly or slowly doesn't matter much as it will release at the same point so the BB will be pushed with the same amount of air.
The only thing that will change is the time to next shot as the system cycles faster with more juice.
 
The 7.2v NiMh may struggle to actually pull the piston back against the spring so much more likely to get a locked gearbox where its partially pulled back but doesn't have enough juice to finish the cycle. Major pain...
 
Li-Po's have more current so even though its 7.4v it still has more power.  Think of it like a garden hose.  The voltage is the diameter of the pipe and the current is the water pressure.

Your mah give you capacity/longevity, but the volts give you the oomph. 
 
I use 7.4v lipo's that i got for my drone with 2700mah.  One lasts a full day with just about 50% used up. 
 
This is measured by the charger as it charges and discharges (for storage) and knowing this helps keep track of battery health. 
 
Also worth ditching mini tamiya connectors as well. 
 
I also bought some 1300mah lipo's that should fit in my stick extension if it ever becomes stocked anywhere in the civilised world.   I ran with one to tty it out and it got me about two thirds of a game day. 
 
Annoyingly the 2700mah doesn't fit so i havr it strapped to the underside of the stock.  Looks a bit cyberpunk LOL
Lipo give you more consistent voltage through the discharge, and a much higher power density. At the expense of volatility. 
 
NIMH being old chemistry, are much safer, and can be left fully charged for ages.  Lipo's need to be stored at a specific voltage if not being used for more than a few days.  Hence the need for a decent charger. 
 
 

Ok, in regards to my *cough cough* AEP, I’ve got a proper pistol now so that doesn’t matter. *
I’ve read this read a while back and it was quite interesting, motivating me to not make the “fatal” decision (ok, don’t quote me on that, I know, it kinda depends and stuff) of buying a cheap sniper. 
 
Roger, how did your Well mb03 break? I’m interested to see how it happened but I bet the high power spring kills the plastic internals.
 
*I’ve heard that a pistol as a first gun is bad but it’s too late, not sending it back!
Also, I know a CYMA might last longer but I prefer the look and (how it’s supposed to) feel of the JG T3K1. Finally, you’d be glad to hear I got a refund on that piss-tol today.

Umm I think you will find that they fuckin' well can! 🤕
Regards 
 
 

Ok, turns out the crappy plastic gears are worn out and the cogs don’t do anything anymore, might try get a return (without saying I went inside).

Ok, turns out the crappy plastic gears are worn out and the cogs don’t do anything anymore, might try get a return (without saying I went inside).

Ok, turns out the crappy plastic gears are worn out and the cogs don’t do anything anymore, might try get a return (without saying I went inside).

Glad to hear.
We can't offer much help because none of us have one of those.
Quite unique 😉

Yeah it’s UM-651G, great guess! It’s pretty accurate and with 0.12’s the hop give it about 30 metres range but the wind blows it miles off target
I do (somehow) have a photo of it with it assembled and the grip taken off but (somehow)you can barely see what’s going on, let alone identify pieces. I think my dad likes this sort of stuff (somehow) and it might be a bit of fun trying to piece it together (somehow).
God I hate the word ‘somehow’, sounds so weird
 

Yeah it’s UM-651G, great guess! It’s pretty accurate and with 0.12’s the hop give it about 30 metres range but the wind blows it miles off target
I do (somehow) have a photo of it with it assembled and the grip taken off but (somehow)you can barely see what’s going on, let alone identify pieces. I think my dad likes this sort of stuff (somehow) and it might be a bit of fun trying to piece it together (somehow).
God I hate the word ‘somehow’, sounds so weird
 

"Dear Diedre, I necked two bottles of crème de menthe at my sister's wedding, one thing led to another, and somehow I woke up as the support beam in an Uncle Bob and Cousin Ralph Eiffel Tower.  Which one should I marry?"
 
Sorry, chap, I can't find anything like an internal diagram for that.  I'm vaguely aware that these things exist and shoot at a claimed 0.1J or so.  I want to say... UHC UM-651?  I'm coming up blank.

Wow.
Ok put it in a very hot oven for two hours or until crispy. That should sort it out.
 
Sorry but....
 
Don't loose hope though cause I'm sure help is not far away.👍
 
My advice is just based on first impressions.🤮
 
Regards