Dan Robinson

Well after the fluid loss I suffered last weekend, i purchased myself a camelbak.... 
 
Going to take a fair bit of washing and disinfecting before I drink anything from it.   Shame gin & tonic is not conducive with the safe operating of an automatic weapon. 🍻👍😁
 

I haven't read anything in this thread.. I was purely looking to see if someone had meme'd it.

They have, I now no longer need too. I can sleep ok tonight

GG @Cr0-Magnon

Qft, you want the motor to top out not the battery.

There is, but yeah it's not overly exaggerated as one may think.
 
I still wouldn't use the 2700mAh battery though, if I'm not mistaken the motor you have (standard 14tpa ferrite) draws way more than 27 amps (talking 45 at least) and it will kill the battery quickly.
It's always better to have an oversized battery than the other way around.

Not really, but you do you.
 
 
First and last bursts come from the 2400mAh 40c battery  It's not just the C rating, capacity (mAh) also plays a role.
2400 mAh battery dumps 88 amps (2400 x 40) while the 2700 mAh only dumps 27 (2700 x 10).
In your audio you can clearly hear how the 27 amps battery renders the gun sluggish while the 88 amps one gives the gun a much healthier sound.

a faster motor (or more juice to the existing one) isn't a pure technical solution to the issue, but it can practically solve the problem by making a lockup scenario less likely, you can only pull and release a trigger so fast after all.
 
same applies to using mosfets like the ab++ or warfet, they don't remove the physical conditions for a lock to occurr but they can be setup to prevent the box ever stopping in the region where a lockup can occurr.

Sound pretty much the same to me bud lol.
But I am deaf in one leg.🤣
 

That was what I was thinking - which means cracking open the gearbox.  Which I am far from comfortable doing at this stage of my limited experience.  If it was simply splicing some wires and soldering, then fine.  Especially as my gun has its MOSFET swinging in the breeze anyway.
 
But having spunked a lot more than I was planning on already with this sport, I think I can wait and chalk this one up to a little added realism.  I can save my pennies now for when I am in Japan and have access to a wider range of pew pews than I would here.  

They have a sensor that reads the sector gear's teeth when they pass by and does some math to figure it out (Titan), or they have a sensor that reads the sector gear's cam (the one that engages the cutoff lever).
 
Other mosfets like the old BTC Spectre or the G&G ETU still rely on a mechanical cutoff but it activates a microswitch instead of being read by an optical sensor.

The Gate mosfets (Titan and Aster) use photocells to pick up the teeth on the gear (the Titan is a break beam, the Aster is retro reflective which is why it has stickers to put in the gearbox). The issue with optical sensors is that they can get dirty and stop working or you can sometimes get too much ambient light into the gearbox that interferes. With the Aster needing a white surface opposite the sensor, you can run into issues if the sticker isn't flat or doesn't adhere to the inside of the gearbox properly.
 
The Perun Hybrid uses a hall effect (magnetic) sensor to do the same thing. Arguably this is more reliable but both systems rely on correct spacing 

It's a "timing issue" that occurs when the cycle stops right to the point where the cutoff lever engages the trigger trolley too early and said trolley is lifted from the trigger before closing the circuit.
 
It's unavoidable and an inherent design flaw of AEGs.
 
To permanently eliminate the issue you need a mosfet with cycle detection (replaces the cut off lever) like a Gate Titan/Aster or Perun Optical/Hybrid.

Don't know the make but if it fits in the available space 👍
 
I would go with this one:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-2000mah-2s-15-30c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html?queryID=391e544be715b5db4e15fcd1971135d6&objectID=47513&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics
 
Or
 
https://www.vapextech.co.uk/airsoft-7-4v-2600mah-25c-lipo-cranstock-battery-with-case-lp305-vapextech
 

That's a lockup which happens when the trigger is released too quickly for the gearbox to finish a cycle.   Switching to auto just finishes the cycle as it ignores the position of cutoff lever.
This is one of the benefits of using a more advanced MOSFET which can monitor the gears and automatically completes a cycle even if the trigger has been released.
 
Its not really bad for the gearbox but a battery with higher C rating will help as will learning to hold the trigger until a shot is complete.
 
 

Yeah, higher C rating is better as its a measure of highest burst current.  You may not notice a huge improvement but its better for the battery anyway.

Shouldn't need any adapter on a Specna CORE - The buffer tube mounts directly onto the receiver extension stub with a screw that goes into the back of the gearbox spring guide. This serves to lock the gearbox in place, and pulls the buffer tube into tension on the back of the gun thus securing it.

 
A sling plate is needed to cover the gaping hole left in the back of the receiver.

Or you could just be nice and send me that AEG on the bottom? 
 
I think i have a bit of a lob on. 😂
Will have a look wheb i get home.  Thought there needed ti be another adapter in there before the buffer tube. 

OR, if you still want a PDW style stock but with TONS of battery space, and you like a borderline impossible challenge, you could try and source a King Arms PDW stock like the ones I have on my AEGS in the picture below (the two M4s are Specnas btw).
 


 
Borderline impossible challenge because I got the last two available in Europe and as of now the only two places you can get them from are tiger111hk and directly from King Arms.
 

Cheap'n'cheerful: ebay or Ant-Supplies
 
You'll need AEG fitting, not GBB.
 
 

You just need a buffer tube and butt plate (the one with sling attachment loops).
Both can be bought for €20 or less, then add whatever stock you want.
 
Keep in mind that you may need longer wires because afaik the "pdw" versions may have shorter wires installed.

Watts is the amount of energy over time, amps is how much energy is being supplied. 
 
Ignore Watts for this purpose.  Its volts and mah. 
 
 
Another way to look at it is to compare to a gas gun.... 
 
Volts equal your pressure. 
Mah equal your storage capacity. 
 
Watts would be how much gas is discharged per shot so equal to the piston of an aeg. 

Nope,  think what the motor is doing.  Its pulling back a piston against a spring until it releases at a certain point.
If it does it quickly or slowly doesn't matter much as it will release at the same point so the BB will be pushed with the same amount of air.
The only thing that will change is the time to next shot as the system cycles faster with more juice.
 
The 7.2v NiMh may struggle to actually pull the piston back against the spring so much more likely to get a locked gearbox where its partially pulled back but doesn't have enough juice to finish the cycle. Major pain...
 
Li-Po's have more current so even though its 7.4v it still has more power.  Think of it like a garden hose.  The voltage is the diameter of the pipe and the current is the water pressure.

Your mah give you capacity/longevity, but the volts give you the oomph. 
 
I use 7.4v lipo's that i got for my drone with 2700mah.  One lasts a full day with just about 50% used up. 
 
This is measured by the charger as it charges and discharges (for storage) and knowing this helps keep track of battery health. 
 
Also worth ditching mini tamiya connectors as well. 
 
I also bought some 1300mah lipo's that should fit in my stick extension if it ever becomes stocked anywhere in the civilised world.   I ran with one to tty it out and it got me about two thirds of a game day. 
 
Annoyingly the 2700mah doesn't fit so i havr it strapped to the underside of the stock.  Looks a bit cyberpunk LOL
Lipo give you more consistent voltage through the discharge, and a much higher power density. At the expense of volatility. 
 
NIMH being old chemistry, are much safer, and can be left fully charged for ages.  Lipo's need to be stored at a specific voltage if not being used for more than a few days.  Hence the need for a decent charger. 
 
 

Pretty typical for Grindr, to be fair.

For shits and giggles. 
 
Technically the two hanging up are my sons. 
 

Not been in the forum long, but I sense a standard reply to this is:
 
"Welcome to Airsoft"
 
 
Hey ho.