RostokMcSpoons

No other excuse needed to roll out this classic

@Herrgh Get lots of those batteries, I seem to go through them way too fast. I'm not sure if the Sotac has an auto-off feature - if it doesn't, my experience says it's too easy to leave a sight left switched on, and the battery is dead within a week! My recent purchases... already mentioned elsewhere, but well feck it Double Eagle M904G from the classifieds... thanks @Speedbird_666, the gnu came in beautiful condition - it gave me that New Gnu unboxing buzz when I got it, very enjoyable Double Eagle Falcon control unit - thanks @JVacation, allowed me to swap the newer, shimmed and lubed gearbox from the 904 to my 906, and end up with two working toys rather than one! As I'm now in possession of a 906 and a 904, I'll probably run up a quick comparison (perhaps with video) of the two gats, which might be useful for future DE purchasers.

Yes I've certainly cured the problem, though I did have one moment when I had the same symptom (when I was doing an initial test with the gearbox out of the receiver). This I took as a hint of a possibility that actually the electronics were ok and it's a mechanical problem with the fine positioning of the selector switch. Regardless, I'm very grateful because the upshot is two working guns 🤗 Next step is to buy that motor from AK2M4, but I've spent too much on Airsoft recently!

I have never wanted to own a bottle of Lynx Body Wash Until now Which one should an Airsofter buy? 'Axe'? 'Blast'? Asking for a friend....

In the interests of completeness (i.e. stopping my slight OCD from kicking-in, for not posting this), here are my results with the M906C with the ZCI barrel + hop unit on board Basically a 2" group with a couple of flyers. Pretty good! I'm not sure why it's looking better than the same barrel + hop + gearbox in the 904G... Either 1) The outer barrel is a better fit for this barrel and hop (I certainly felt no need to wrap any tape around it, it's a decent fit with no real wriggle-room or 2) Twenty shots isn't a good statistical base, and it was down to luck! I might want to shim the back end of the barrel - that is also a good fit, but the locating rails/ridges on the outside of the hop allow a degree or two of rotation against the inside of the receiver. If the gun's vibration rotate the barrel that would affect the direction of hop, and therefore the accuracy. By how much in practice, I'm not sure... but it's something I could address anyway. I shimmed the stock bolt in the 904G with some washers, that's now fine. Back-up / family & friends gun now ready to roll!

Note that this storage charge stuff only applies to Li-Po batteries - if you really are using Li-Ion then one of the great benefits (as stated by Titan) is that they can be left in any state (except completely empty) indefinitely without affecting it adversely.

Guys, be assured we hold your commitment to the 'early adopter' cause in the highest esteem, and it's worth every extra penny / pound you've spent!

If you're running Li-Ion batteries (Titan?) them you don't need to worry, it's Li-po that need storage charges, but as the guys say - it's not a big deal, unless you want to squeeze every last percent of life out of them.

I love my VFC HK416A5 ❤️❤️❤️ Just added an outer barrel extension because I think it looks better than just the stubby short barrel... But a nice suppressor works well too...

I'll do the shimming of the inner barrel and do a test shoot, see it it makes any difference... All in the name of science! The stock is giving me the right arsehole. I managed to free up the bolt from it's cross threading. The spring guides in the gearboxes must differ somehow... certainly the stock bolts are different between the two guns, and now thanks to the combination I can't tighten up either bolt on the tanker stick sufficiently to hold it tightly in place. It may just need me to shim it with a large nut, or find a shorter bolt. Or I've lost something!

Thanks chaps, Leo's post on the Airsoft Sniper forum, linked on the previous message, is a good read As for stabilisation... I found this page I've got PTFE tape, so I can try that tomorrow if I get the time. I've got one problem away from the accuracy fettling... When I was rebuilding the 904G, I managed to cross-thread the stock bolt into the spring guide. Currently they're jammed together (there's a plastic bit of the stock that prevents me from getting a good hold on the spring guide to unjam it all, but I should be able to sort that out tomorrow.) The issue did bring forward my plan to replace the 'tanker' stock with something like the 906C so I can use a better spare stock on there... so presumably I need to buy a rear sling plate, and a generic M4 AEG stock tube? Is there anything else?

I'm still a noob when it comes to shimming. So with the 906C gearbox I just swapped the shims around because the sector gear wasn't spinning very easily when it was just the 3 gears inside the shell, and some of the gearbox screws done up. I moved one of the thin shims from the top to the bottom of the sector gear, and it improved. I may have moved another from one gear to another, I can't remember for sure. (I considered it a 'win' anyway!) Yeah, I'm thinking more in terms of how well it hops rather than deviation from the barrel... I've not stabilised the inner barrel - I'll look that up and experiment! Just a small stick 7.4v. Once the spring is back, it's all down to the stored potential energy in that rather than anything electrical, so batteries will (well, should) only affect the RoF. I've not checked the ZCI barrel / hop, I presume the Prommy rubber is purple, as that's the one usually recommended from them. I'll check, I may have a spare yellow ML bucking, or it may be installed in the 904G now - one way or another I'll try it. Good results with ML regardless of whether it was 50 or 60 previously, so happy to stick with 'em! Does inner barrel stabilisation require parts? I thought it might just be a bit of electrical tape to center it in the outer barrel!

@MrTea, I nearly went to Halfords too, as I need a spade connector to resurrect my Classic Army M16. I realised I didn't know if they had the right ones - what size do I need to ask for?

Ah, does that fit in the knock-off versions as well, do you think? I might invest as my "Odd'un" works quite well, but when it's hundreds of BB's + some spare space, it really does make a helluva noise doesn't it?

Double Eagle M906C -- Maple Leaf Macaron 50 (or maybe 60) degree + Omega nub Double Eagle M904G -- Prometheus hop rubber (as fitted by @Speedbird_666 TM AUG High Cycle -- Guarder Clear (as recommended by @Asomodai, iirc) Tippmann M4 -- G&G Green (as recommended by another Tippmann user + Will @ Spec Ops) The stock nub on the DE was quite soft, I think, Omega is quite a bit harder, but the stock hop unit + Omega + my technical wizardry meant eventually there was always some hop applied, even if I tried to dial it all out. Might have been a function of the odd hop arm supplied in the 906C I've just swapped the 906C and 904G barrels and hops over though, in preparation for using the 906C on the next game day, will be interesting to see how it works! (I'll take the other along too, if I want to swap back!)

My recent travails with my otherwise beloved Double Eagle have indicated a failing Falcon Fire Control Unit (it's a decent MOSFET with some active braking + burst modes etc) To combat this I firstly bought a 904G (because it's exactly the same internals) as the Falcon units aren't available as spares. And then I bought a Falcon unit as one became available! This has allowed me to fix my DE M906C (yay! but it's still needing some work, more on that later) And I have a fully working DE M904G with a better barrel and hop combo installed. Time to "science the shit out of it" and see which is better! Now the 906C is not stock. It has had the super-easy upgrade of the Maple Leaf 50deg Macaron bucking, paired with an Omega nub fitted. When I tested this on installation, I didn't find much difference, but the guns shoots very accurately and consistently to decent distances. The 904G has had a ZCI tight-bore inner barrel and ZCI rotary hop fitted. Both things are widely recommended on these forums. A Prometheus hop rubber has also been fitted. How can we tell which is better? I set them both up with my Visionking 1.25-5x scope, set it at 5x, roughly zeroed and then grouped 20 shots. (Apologies for mislabelling the 906C target) Pretty much sod-all difference! If anything the 906C is better, as the 904G had a tendency to throw a couple of real flyers into the mix during zeroing. A couple of minor observations: 1) The 904G has been well shimmed, sounds pretty good. The 906C has still got the factory shimming and sounds like an asthmatic ant with some heavy shopping in comparison, though there seems to be no loose movement in the gears. 2) Both are running the stock grey motor (Chaoli? (sp???)). The 904G runs warm after spamming semi, the 906C still tends towards "frying tonight" even with the new control unit running things. More backing for the idea it's badly shimmed? 3) The 904G is chrono-ing at 280fps with 0.28s and no hop, which is decent. The 906C was at a little less (there's always some hop applied, thanks to the nub) Perhaps the 906C is too tightly shimmed? Better too loose than too tight ... in this context I've tried different motor heights, but the better it sounds the faster it heats up. Anyway, I think I'm going to swap the 904G gearbox into the 906C and then maybe to do some more 'science' with different combos of barrel and hop unit... but I suspect the difference in their abilities will only show up at much longer ranges than the 15m I've tested at so far. Edit: I swapped around some shims on the 906C, and put it in the 904G receiver, and vice versa. The 806C original gearbox now sounds better, and the 904G gearbox in the 906C receiver now sounds worse Maybe the polymer receiver deadens the sound better than the metal one...? And maybe the motor height needs some more work - @Speedbird_666 your clever shim I don't think is needed with the 906C, it has a different, noticeably longer, pistol grip.

The picture in the first post isn't showing for me, but I think it'll look the same as the Walther 30mm red dot I have. It looks too chunky when it's on the gun, makes it look a little top-heavy, so it's the sight that gets the least use. Would look good on an LMG though, I guess. If you want a decent and very cheap sight, the 'Battlefield 4 Coyote' sight is super cheap and really rather good, it's my preferred light weight sight. KINGSCOPE Red Dot Scope 4 Reticles Reflex Sight for Hunting Airsoft Shooting with 20/22mm Weaver Picatinny Rail Mount https://amzn.eu/d/axbGrDd Another vote for the Sotac if you want the Eotech sight, looks very good on most guns, especially the HK416 Here are the two sights on my Scarab Note that they've both got Red Dot Engineering sight protectors fitted (so the Eotech looks squared-off) Those protectors are widely recommended at about £10-12. Available on eBay.

Warhead have worked perfectly for me, I bought 10kg of 0.28s, nearly got through all them now without any getting jammed in the barrel

Double Eagle springs might be made out of Kraft Dairy Slices, they seem to go all the over place in fairly short order, but my other guns have held up quite well over time. It's the ultimate 'YMMV' story. So buying gats with quick change springs makes a lot of sense 👍

Looks like TM are running scared of Double Eagle's Noveske GBBR * and have come up with a handsome counter to it * I think I'm joking

Thanks @Keldon, useful info Hey @Cannonfodder, @Dan Robinson I might go along too, see you there perhaps

It's all there for a reason! (Well, mostly) My plastic bin has quite a few holes in it, for ... "reasons"

I had a cunning thought based on the word 'needle' - I found a thick needle and pushed / hammered it into the external valve hole - and it gripped enough to let me spin it with no effort whatsoever Yay!

I had a leaky gas mag on my VFC HK416 during the last skirmish day, I've finally got around to taking a look at it. And wish I hadn't, I've made matters worse The leak appeared to be from the fill valve, so I did what any normal bloke would do... I tightened it. The leak got worse so I tightened it some more - and then it failed. Looks like I've sheared it through the thread.. Which means (I guess) half the valve is now in the body of the mag and I'll need to extract it somehow. Any hints? (Or is it going to be easy and I shouldn't be asking dumb questions?) Should I go with one of these: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/guarder-magazine-gas-injection-valve-pack-of-two-for-kjwevfc as a good replacement? Edit: I took the mag apart as I realised that I needed to get some silicone grease on the o-rings and gaskets so they wouldn't irreparably dry out, so they're now stored in plastic bags ready for when the new fill valve is here. This meant I could see what the fill valve looks like from inside the mag: Sorry for the shit focus. The gouge marks on the barrel of the valve are my first attempts to undo from inside with a pair of needle-nose pliers. I can see it's moving, but the tiny room I have to work in means I can shift it about a twentieth of a turn at a time. This will be painfully slow work! I might pop out and buy some more svelte pliers in the hope I can turn it a bit more on each go, but really I need a more cunning method of unwinding it!