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Posts posted by LzChase
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16 hours ago, John_W said:
Why do that when you can get the Airsoft Pro parts with better QC and design?
Since I started this topic I discovered AirsoftPro and it has been upgraded with their hop chamber, hybrid piston, spring guide and steel cylinder head. However the cylinder question still remains because their steel cylinder (nor the zero trigger for that matter) is nowhere to be found here. The major problem is I still live with my parents and you can bet your BBs they ain't gonna let me order anything that ships from outside the border anytime soon!
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I need to find out what spring my rifle uses (Cyma 702 M24) but I can't find it anywhere. Is there a way to identify the spring? I need a slightly weaker spring as 490 FPS won't be needed. The thing is M140 to M150 springs which seem to be used to give such fps are found in upgrade kits, which means the stock spring must be weaker. Again I need a relieable way of identifying springs.
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23 minutes ago, John_W said:
Parts for the Novirsch SSG24 should be compatible.
I'm not sure about this part, I think the Novritsch SSG24 is based on a Mod24
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Don't we all have memories of wanting the be the "cool kid"?
And in my case, I thought having an airsoft pistol that looked like one in my at the time favourite game, which was really just a Gen 3 with a silver slide.
It's the first time in a long time I've had this gun in my hands and it has a few slightly odd modifications that I'm not sure how I came up with. Again I was just 11, but it was still me. Where I live it is illegal for someone under 18 to handle an airsoft gun without adult supervision and the guns were locked up at all other times. .....I still remember waking up my parents at 6 AM because I wanted to continue working on it.
• "Built" on a WE EU17 Gen 3 •
• Instead of just the slide, almost all metal parts have been sanded down to metal, including even the trigger pins.
• The back plate is partially sanded which gives it a "striped" look.
• While a bit hard to tell without comparison, the Dust Cover has actually been slightly filed back to give it a "sharper" look.
• The inner barrel has been "hidden" by painting the tip black with a sharpie.
• The outer barrel has also been filed back so a suppressor would sit straight. The threads are worn out by now.
• The outer barrel is two toned, why I did this I don't really know. The front and chamber are silver while the barrel itself is still black.
• The spring guide rod looks like it has also been filed, possibly to match the slightly shorter modified outer barrel.
• The magazine plate has been painted silver, I think this was also done with a marker.
The "slightly" blurry picture is the Glock as it appears in Pyrozen's "Sift Heads" Flash Game Series, Which started the initial idea.
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Long story short, if I upgrade a spring sniper with steel cylinder head, metal piston, metal spring guide and CNC hop up housing, will the heavier parts increase wear to the point where I'd still need a steel cylinder?
Also, does ONLY the AirsoftPro cylinder fit a CYMA M24 or can you use other cylinders too? More on this in separate thread below.
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Quick question since research hasn't really given me an answer here. I'm trying to figure out if it will accept a VSR barrel or if it uses an unique barrel since It won't take a VSR cylinder as far as I've understood. I've also seen some people say that It'll take all Snow Wolf M24 parts and magazines while some say it doesn't. I've never worked with spring sniper rifles before except for painting them, so I don't have any experience. Here's the most important question, I have been told that it will accept an APS 2 cylinder such as those found in some WELL models like the MB01. Is this the case?
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14 hours ago, Druid799 said:
Getting some sauce material is the right thing to do , if you look at the pic I’ve posted all the staining from use is focused around the magwell and pistol grip .
So after trying to replicate this I found out that it was simply not working with laminate wood. I think it's time for a change of plans. I'm going to go for this look, meaning I'll try to bring out the beauty in the lamination pattern instead of trying to make it look like a single piece. Here in Sweden we say "Gör om, Gör Rätt" which means "Do it again but Do it right".
It could still be a replica of an old gun, as the stock could have been changed at some point.
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22 minutes ago, Druid799 said:
worn sections going in too many different directions
I went and took a closer look and some of them are laminations showing, I think I'm gonna try to stain those parts with a cotton swab to get an even finish and then try to re-weather based on an old shogun hanging on my wall. (if you tell me why I didn't do that in the first place you win 5000 £) I'll get back to this thread when that's done.
PS: wasn't trying to accuse you of anything, perhaps bad choice of words. Not a native english speaker here.
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3 minutes ago, Druid799 said:
I’ll be honest mate doesn’t look ‘used’ to me , just looks like a really crappy staining job . Having used a real wood furniture’ed gun I’d say you’ve got the worn sections going in too many different directions and just too randomly placed on the stock to replicate wear through use over time .
when you look at any old wooden bodied guns the wear’n’tear is near always in specific areas and generally only going in one or two directions .
Just my two pennies worth . 👍
I never said it was a good job, I just said it was weathered
I've never done this before, we all gotta start somewhere
It's also a laminate stock so I'm not entirely sure how close to a real stock it can get
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- Impulse, jimmykells, RostokMcSpoons and 1 other
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5 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
only thing i'd really comment on is that scope offset looks like it'd make for more of a beard weld than a chin weld, perhaps an old-school padded stock sleeve to rise it up whilst fitting the look?
Yes this is true and I noticed afterwards that the scope sits too high. I'm thinking of getting a low profile mount for the scope as the picture I used the most when referencing real guns had the scope mounted significantly lower. Perhaps a Leapers UTG, it has a single bolt instead of two, like in the picture too.
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-PARTS & MATERIALS LIST-
-Built on CYMA CM.032C M14-
CYMA M14 Scope Rail Mount
Maple Leaf 6.02x510mm Precision Barrel
ASG Universal Bipod
AIM-O 3.5-10X40E-SF Scope
AIM-O 3.5-10X40E-SF Short Scope Extender (Not Attached in Picture)
Vortex Hunter 30mm Low Scope Rings
Aim Top 120 Hop-up Rubber
ASG 9,6v NiMH Battery
CYMA CM.032 Mid-Cap Magazine
FOSCO Service Brown Spray Paint
FOSCO Clear Coat
ToC Sling/Harris Stud
Zar Moorish Teak Oil-Based Wood Stain
Herdins Teak Oil
-Possibly TBA?-
Gate Mosfet NanoHARD
G&G AEG POWER SPRING - M120
Ultimate Gearbox Shims
M1 Repro Leather Sling
Leapers UTG New Gen 4-Point Locking Deluxe M14/M1A Scope Mount
Leather Cheek Rest/Cartridge Holder
- Ebeneezer Goode, Jacob Wright, Tackle and 2 others
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3 hours ago, EDcase said:
By the way, which Blue are you using?
Is it Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black? (Yes, its the American spelling)
No it's perma blue paste, aluminum black didn't give that brown, rust-ish effect
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- Lozart, concretesnail, PopRocket123 and 2 others
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This is the scope mount for my M21 build. I've attempted to weather it after getting tips from fellow users. If you guys like it, I will use this method on the full build, if not, tell me how I could improve.
What I've Done:
-Steel Wool used to wear away paint to simulate edge wear, a fine file was used to make a few deeper scratches on the outer edge where it would get hit on things the most.
-Rails are extra scratched to simulate attachments going on and off over the years.
-Bolts have extra weathering to simulate screwing them in and out over the years. They also have marks around the edges made by pliers to make it look like tools were used at some point.
-Round scratches around the bolts to simulate said tool touching the metal.
-Finer steel wool used to create a slightly uneven finish as wear is never even
-Generic scratches
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5 hours ago, Lozart said:
Where is "here"? Can you not buy online and have something shipped?
in Sweden, I don't have access to payment methods required to order across, however I found a double grooved barrel after some searching
4 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:why S-hop when it's much easier and as (arguably more) effective to drop in something like an ml macaron+omega nub to lift the heavies?
if you're not changing the ratio for a specific purpose (eg going for high speed) then why change a set of gears if there's nothing wrong with them?
guy I got the gun from recommended we put sugru hop in it, he has more experience than me so I just went with the flow
the gears was also his idea, he says if I put in reinforced gears it'll hold up better if i decide to add a stronger spring.
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36 minutes ago, Lozart said:
First off, lay off the massive font.
Changing to a tight bore barrel will push the fps a fair bit but make sure you get the right barrel. The slots in the side to lock the hop unit in place are in a different place than on a V2/3 type hop unit so you need either an M14 specific barrel like the Prometheus EG M14 barrel or something with both sets of grooves like a zci.
I type most my posts on a phone and do that so I can see what I'm doing and I never remember to change it back
Better just post while on PC.
About the barrel it most likely is not possible to find here. I am planning to buy a madbull barrel and take it to a very experienced builder, I know he can mod barrels to fit other gearboxes, I think he uses JB weld and needle files
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I've never worked with AEGs, so I don't know if I'm doing this right. I'm planning to change to a precision barrel with a sugru rhop in it, shim the gearbox and replace the gears with higher grade ones to begin with.
V7 parts aren't that easy to come across here, do parts for other gearboxes work with the V7? Gears, Motors, Pistons and so on. The scarcity of parts also makes me worried that I do something that will result in gearbox shell failure and then I can't get a new shell in a long time.
I'm trying to build a DMR so performance on full auto is not relevant and it will be semi-locked.
What I'm looking to create is an accurate gun with as little "vzzt" gear noise as possible and a decent trigger response, with an FPS hopefully around 425. The base is a CYMA M14, and I'm not sure what battery would be the best, so some recommendations there would be cool too. Note that I only use NimH batteries as I simply do not feel comfortable around lithium based batteries.
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10 minutes ago, BigStew said:
It's a personal choice up to yourself the only issue is weathering either looks fantastic or crap. How confident are you doing it and living with the results. I personally just let use weather my metal guns it can happen pretty quickly. You can always go with you were issued with a refinished gun which was a labour of love for the armourer.
At first I was not confident but since getting some tips on here I've been practicing a lot on various scrap metal painted black, watched many instructional videos and I decided I'm even going to attend a military fair where I can see actual vintage firearms in person so I think I can do a decent job
If a vintage sniper rifle could talk I think it would say "I want to show that I did not spend my life as a wallhanger"
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I'm currently working on a vintage build and I'm not sure if I should weather it or not. The obvious answer would be yes, but I've never done it before. The gun is meant to resemble a Vietnam Era M21 which has then been reissued at some point, and a gun would probably show some wear after serving in two wars.
The thing is as I said I have no idea how to make weathering look realistic/good. All my other guns I've tried to instead keep looking brand new.
So what's your opinion, should I attempt weathering anyways or let it be?
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31 minutes ago, Impulse said:
You'll need to semi-lock it if you do that, however it's super easy to semi-lock an m14. You can just unscrew part of the fire selector (which is super accessible) and detach it after you put it in semi-auto, so you don't need to clip anything or file anything, so if you later down the line decide you want to go 1.14J and full-auto, you can re-attach it no problem. I accidentally found that out when I snapped the fire-selector on mine. It was a super useful breakage
Now ^this^ is a very useful tip.
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I sat down for tea with a fellow airsofter, who just like me, has been inactive for a long time. I've recently posted a few threads about DMR builds, and I also spoke to him about it, to which he responded with surprise when I said I was planning an SR25 build. He asked why I didn't buy something more vintage looking (Which I often spoke of back on the field) looking and I explained to him that I originally wanted to but I don't like faux wood stocks so there was nothing to build it out of.
Then this absolute madman just gets up, goes to his closet and takes out a CYMA M14 with a real wood stock, puts it in my hands and tells me to take it with me.
This might be one of the most welcome surprises of my life, and with his help I am now converting the M14 to a Vietnam War style M21 Sniper System.
Here is a concept art. The idea is to add a scope mount, refinish the stock, and move the front sling mount an inch towards the rear to make space for a Harris bipod. A Vietnam Era M21 would not have had a Harris bipod or a Leupold scope replica, However to me, important parts for shooting comfort is a sunshade and bipod, so perhaps this is a replica of a reissued M21. Gearbox will be shimmed and upgraded to shoot at around 425 FPS. I might semi-lock it aswell.
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5 hours ago, Lozart said:
As for telling you to get an M110 instead of an SR25, that just smacks of someone trying to sell you what they have in stock. The M110 is just a different military name for the same rifle (only with an adjustable buttstock and slightly different rail).
I don't think that's what they're doing as they don't have either in stock, It was probably just a tip.
Sniper Trio - Classic US Military Sniper Rifle Replicas
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted · Edited by LzChase
I took this picture to send to a friend but I thought I might as well share it here.
VFC M40A5 Gas Sniper Rifle [OD Green] - USMC M40A5 (2009)
CYMA M24 Fluted Barrel [CM.702] - Us Army M24 SWS (1988)
CYMA M14 Real Wood [CM.032C] - Us Army M21 SWS (1968)