LzChase
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Posts posted by LzChase
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The reason I am asking this is that I'd much prefer a NiMH Battery as they can be stored fully charged. I am also completely new to AEG Systems and I don't feel comfortable around LiPo Batteries at the moment, especially as I have seen one go up in flames once. I run my rifles with the stock fully extended.
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3 hours ago, Lozart said:
V3 won't fit in there.
Huh. Fair enough
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47 minutes ago, Lozart said:
Might be worth having a watch of this before you go headlong into your DMR build
Fair, I've actually seen this, but I don't think anyone else makes the E2 variant - And besides, I've already ordered the base gun by now. I don't really mind replacing parts, the things that matter to me are that the gearbox can be shimmed and that the trigger response is decent. I might ask a friend to put a custom V3 Gearbox in it eventually (because if i try to do that myself something is going to go wrong very quickly as I have never worked with AEGs and don't want to attempt the really complicated stuff)
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It ain't too interesting but I thought I'd share it anyways. This is the concept art for an upcoming build. The paints planned for use are all FOSCO Brand; Desert RAL 1019, Coyote Brown, Brittish Service Brown and Dark Brown.
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It doesn't have to be quiet as a sneaker wearing sneakers, I mainly want to get rid of as much of the motor whine as possible to have it go "POP" rather than "VZZT"
I've ran a HPA belonging to a friend long ago, I'm not really a fan of hauling around the air tank, so I'd rather stick with AEG.
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I've always been looking for realism but in the end, a gas gun simply isn't reliable as a DMR in a country with a cold climate due to the inconsistent FPS. I therefore look switch from GBBR to build an AEG-based variant instead. The picture shows a concept of how I want the gun, a G&G Knight's Armament SR25 E2 APC M-LOK, to look when the build is finished.
I have never worked with AEGs before other than switching from a plastic to a metal receiver on a CYMA AK, so I have absolutely no idea what I am doing and I wish to not ruin a brand new 600€ Rifle - Yes, That is it's cheapest price where I live.
I'm looking to make the gearbox as quiet as possible with a quick trigger response and clocking the FPS around 425. People I have talked to mention "Gearbox Shimming". I have no idea how this is done or how hard it is.
Finally, Since I'll be running a CTR Stock I wish to know if there are Ni-MH batteries that are small enough to fit in the buffer tube as I'd prefer Ni-MH over LiPo due to their ability to be stored with 100% Charge. If I need to use a LiPo battery after all I would like some tips on safety because I clearly remember the day a teammate's stock suddenly turned into a smoke grenade and then proceeded to be on fire for the following 2 minutes.
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Thought I'd give it a try. The gun is cerakoted in Midnight Blue with some details in Tungsten, then clear coated with cerakote high gloss clear. It's been used as a movie prop so it has some wear on it. Cerakoting by iKote Sweden
- Lozart, Cr0-Magnon and John_W
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When my HK416 has it's "regular" setup instead of being used as a DMR, it has a much smaller 195x32mm Mock Suppressor, a M-ETAL D-Type to be exact, a very light can. Mine is fully foam filled and doesn't have the spring installed as the foam seems to stay in shape just fine without it, and the fact that it looked kinda strange with it in.
But enough about that. Those small holes in the front cap of a lot of mock suppressors (and some real ones I think), What are they?
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So what I did here is I dug out two M-ETAL Suppressors, of which I have many as it the type I prefer, that had some really bad scratching after the storage box with them and a lot of other parts in it fell.
They were a 190x35mm and a 100x35mm. Using two component epoxy and an aluminium tube from an old vacuum cleaner, I made a crude homemade 290x35mm suppressor for my WE-Tech HK416 DMR.
I couldn't find a good way to touch up the scratches so I decided to buy a black suppressor cover - except they were sold out everywhere.... So I made my own. Again. Using black nylon from a broken guitar case, some velcro straps and some general packing foam, I again made a crude homemade version on my mother's old sewing machine.
- BigStew, Shamal, PopRocket123 and 2 others
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1 hour ago, Nick G said:
Guessing you are not in the UK ? I suspect you are going to have to try it on Blue gas to see if it will cycle . Never tried mine on less than green. What fps / power level are you aiming for ?
I live in Sweden but there is no really active Airsoft forum here. Obviously Blue Gas is not going to do well in the Swedish Winter but that's not my intention. I'm hoping to get around 320. It does ~425 on 140 PSI Gas.
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44 minutes ago, Nick G said:
If you want to get the power down on a GBBR you are best to install an NPAS which will give you adjustability for different sites. I have one in all mine , and can hapily get my L119 which is based on a WE M4 down to 1.1 joules (just under 350 fps on .20's although our local site chrono's on power and I run .30's) on red gas or lower on green gas.
You will need to check the fps / power limits for whichever CQB site you are wanting to play at and set the NPAS up from there.
Upgrade/Spare parts are extremely scarce where I'm located. NPAS are nowhere to be seen, except for one store where it has been out of stock for a century. that's why I'm wondering if it would cycle properly on Blue gas.
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I'm thinking CQB here. Will a WE M4 type GBBR run on 116 PSI? And if it will, will it be low enough FPS for CQB?
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I didn't expect this thread to semi-blow up but what do you know?
4 hours ago, Druid799 said:Works fine for me 👍
But then again I do own a pink Bizon with unicorns and swear words all over it , so perhaps you shouldn’t take my advice on the subject ? 🤦♂️
You got a picture of that? Sounds oddly awesome.
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I recently made a thread where I showed how my DMR Build turned out. However there are some things that I'm planning to change.
But here's the deal. I cannot find a 13/13.5 inch handguard anywhere remotely close to where I live so I'm thinking of a kind of M110-style look where instead of a long rail it'll have a 290mm suppressor.
But how will it really look? Should I reconsider something? Because my friend and former classmate said it looked "pretty cool but kinda weird" so I'm just looking for some general opinions.
Here's a mockup of how the new version would look.
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This is a picture from Novritsch's "10 Kinds of Airsofters You Hate" video. I'm interested in this bipod because of how close to the handguard it sits, giving it a very slim look, but I can't tell what it is. The only thing I can tell is that it is some sort of Atlas-type bipod but there are a lot of different models.
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25 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
I wouldnt worry about it.
Unless it's an especially heavy can (looking at you lct pbs4) or you're regularly knocking it into things.
What's more likely is striking the can purely because the can isn't well made tolerance wise (still looking at you lct pbs4) or the barrel thread is a little off.
I googled Lct Pbs4 and that is the heaviest suppressor, even as a tracer unit, I have ever seen
Edit: oh so the tracer unit is optional. and with it in the weight goes up to over 800g
......okay then
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18 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:
could you not just adjust the colour balance on the monitor?
True, and I used to to so for a while, but with today's gaming technology, HDR and all that, some games looked off and I had to readjust. Using glasses seems to work better for me anyways.
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As mentioned in a previous thread, I recently finished a build. Then I started thinking, is this actually a good setup? Not concerning the debate surrounding suppressors for looks, but rather in terms of weight. Can it be ran like this or does this put too much weight on the free floating barrel? Like can it be "unhealthy" for the gun?
The factory outer barrel extension (the visible outer barrel between the suppressor and gas block) and suppressor together weigh 347 grams (0.765 pounds or 12.24 ounces.)
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15 hours ago, RavenUK said:
I like it. Personally I would get a shorter outer barrel and have the inner run through the suppressor but that's just my own preference. Great job
That was the plan but it looked too short to be a DMR. I need a very long suppressor to run it like that
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5 hours ago, LzChase said:
Final version has folding sights. A scope mount with the extension extending backwards instead of forwards allows the folders to stay on. (Otherwise I would probably lose them.) The sights have been converted to manual instead of spring loaded because I kept getting the skin on my thumb caught.
I have now solved this issue by upgrading to Leapers Accu-Sync.
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4 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
Gaming eyewear?
A type of tinted glasses used to eliminate eye strain during gaming
APC E2 AEG to M110 SASS AEG - Worth switching?
in Electric Guns
Posted
It seems the site I ordered the G&G SR25 from (for my DMR build) had a faulty inventory status as it just turned out they were actually sold out. While on the phone with them, they said I would be much better off with an M110 style rifle instead due to it's larger stock, and me planning to use a NimH battery.
Are they different or is it the same gun in another "shell"?
I mean they're not wrong, it would be much more practical that trying to fit a battery in the APC variant with a CTR stock (since I'm not a fan of crane stocks, be it shooting comfort or looks) my concern is that the stock is not adjustable, I don't know how much or how little of a problem this might be.
I'm thinking about building the DMR with the classic version instead. Here is what it would look like (hopefully):