alxndrhll

Many of my fondest airsofting memories are from Urban Assault (RAF Upwood). Certainly helped by the fact is was fairly local to me but it had a superb mix of CQB and more open outdoor spaces, and this was helped by general good use of the site as a whole during games. I think the latter was the ‘special sauce’ for me. There are sites that are a somewhat similar layout (Anzio Camp being an example that I’ve been to relatively recently), but I often feel the buildings are a bit overused throughout the day. Insisting they are used by having objectives in them, or points to defend rather than allowing the site as a whole to breathe a bit and allow players to use different parts of it. The site definitely gradually go worse as more of it fell into disrepair, but it’s certainly the site that got me hooked. I believe it only closed it’s doors relatively recently but I hadn’t been in years. Though they likely wouldn’t remember me at all, Frank (owner of Firesupport?) and Ian (I believe the ‘head marshall’ through most of my time attending, but I could be wrong) were both always willing to help when I was a young ‘un initially getting into the game. The more I think about, the more influential that site was on my continued interest in airsoft on the whole.

For sure, I'm exactly the same. But I've gradually learned over time that all it winds up costing me is more lube. As mentioned previously your hop is a tool to put spin on the BBs and get the trajectory as you want it with your desired weight, not a tool to adjust your FPS. Until you've got that hop set right there is just too much variation in terms of FPS/joules that'll come from adjusting your hop without knowing if it's correct or not to have any real idea which spring you're best off with. I know others opinions may vary but I'll always advocate for ensuring your RIF is site legal on the ammo weight you're using. I dread to think how dangerous RIFs like the SRS could get if folks actively leaned into the fact sites seem to insist on chrono'ing on .2s with a limit of 500fps. With my SRS set up as is it's consistently 2.25J on a .48... which is 430FPS on 0.2g with the hop set to lift said .48s. I dread to think how much you'd be creeping if you were setting up for 500FPS on .2g. With my VSR setup as is I don't seem to find a huge amount of joule creep, but as we all know different parts create some very 'interesting' results at times.

As hard as it is to avoid the temptation (I know, I've been there, it's hard not to tinker when you know something isn't right) I'd be inclined to avoid tweaking anything until you've been able to get the hop set somewhere close to where it needs to be to get that clean flat trajectory. You need to get your 'control' results before you can make informed choices on switching things around.

I'd assumed the bullet points were a fun diagram of BBs flight during a quick tap semi burst.

The easy option is to swap the spring out, or clip the existing one down. Though with the latter be sure to do this 'properly' it's not simply a case of clipping coils off, be sure to flatten it off and keep it clean. Using a piston with an airbrake is another option. Either way I'd advise settling on the ammo you're intending to use, get your hop dialed in and then do your chrono tests. Once you know what you're on joule/FPS wise with the RIF set up as you'd use it in a game it's easier to advise on which is the best option. If you're a little over, clipping a coil off is likely the most effective (both in terms of end result and cost). If you're a lot over, lower powered spring. If you want the option to fine turn further, piston with an airbrake. Until you've got the information as to what it's shooting on a consistent ammo weight with the hop set for that weight it's hard to advise with anything more precise than that. Welcome to the world of tuning a bolt action rifle, where changing one part has a tendency to waterfall into changing other bits. It’s half the fun... I guess 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Aye, I've looked a few times. They have the 10" version in stock currently and I've nearly 'pulled the trigger' a few times but their pricing on the RIFs themselves is significantly higher than High Pressure (works out about £100 more before shipping). Pricing on parts seems roughly the same after conversion, so I'll heed your recommendation and head there for those. A tad weird that the RIFs themselves have such a large price jump!

Aye, never seem to answer the phone and I think I've tried every form of text based communication to get in touch with them... all fruitless. I begrudge giving them my hobby pennies truth be told... but I'm yet to find any other options over here. The line only tended to bother me because I don't tend to use slings because I like to have full freedom of movement and the ability to quickly lean my rif up against a tree/walk if I want to dash round a corner with my pistol, or pass it to a team mate when clambering through windows so on and so forth. Likely because I don't use slings even having played with a line for a few years I still forgot to disconnect it on ocassion. As I said in my intial post, not a deal breaker... but felt worthwhile exploring the options that are there. Unless others chime in I may well go with the CO2 stock for starters, with plans of grabbing the aero when the new version releases. I can also switch back to the line if I'm struggling to get the CO2 running as hoped! Though as mentioned at the top of this post, I'm someone reluctant to leave not a small amount of money with a company that can't really be arsed with customer service... doesn't build a huge amount of confidence that I'd be keep up to date with what going on.

Much appreciated, I'd suspected as much in terms of them making some tweaks because it's been forever since it'd be in stock on the Wolverine website. As for the CO2, the main 'issue' I've seen is from people using the 12g version and just not setting the puncture depth correctly with other issues seeming to stem from incorrect installation or just a lack of understanding of what CO2 is and isn't capable of doing consistently.\ Fortunately(?) I'm not in a mad rush, given where I'm located and the fact it looks like national lockdown mk2 is upon us I imagine I'm largely done with attending games for the rest of the year so I guess I'll set my sights on getting an order in (I imagine through High Pressure Airsoft, though I've been less than impressed by there correspondence or lack there of) so I'm at least in the queue. I guess that's the benefit of having somewhat of a monopoly on the HPA market over here as far as I can tell. Cheers, Alex

I'm not sure I'd necessarily class it as either, for the most part I'd personally say it goes against the spirit of the game. But there's an arguement to be made for people in general just not making it clear if they're 'dead' or not. Tends to be a hand in the air for the 3 seconds that they're moving from their position to start to the walk back to a dead zone these days, and that's the point at which whether they're 'dead' or not become immediately unclear. Which is exacerbated by the fact dead folks sure do like to moan when you shoot them, despite them showing no signs they're 'out' for the time being. The easiest way to tell nowadays is 'are the shooting back at me', so I can see why those involved would question what was going on.

Hi folks, No idea if anyone will be able to assist, mainly looking for opinions. The TLDR is I'm picking one of these puppies up shortly so I have a nice quiet, reliable option to play more aggressively with while dressed as a bush. I don't use full auto, but this won't be set up as a DMR... very much a 'I can't be bothered with minimum engagement distances today' set up. Likely going with the Inferno Gen 2 as the engine. I'm not new to HPA, it's pretty much all I've run for the past few years (mainly using Polarstar systems) but something I hadn't looked into before was ridding myself of the tank and line.. or the very least the line. Though certainly not a deal breaker, if I could remove the line from the equation I'd be pretty happy about it. So that leaves me looking at the CO2 wraith stocks (preference being the 33g, but if there is a notable reason to go with 12g I'm open to it) or the AERO stock. From what I can gather CO2 would require a bit more maintainence (I'm assuming keeping o-rings in shape would be it for the most part), and if you go with the 12g version you need to be sure you know what you're doing when setting depth. The 33g is essentially just acting as a small tank which simply screws into the regulator which is built into the stock. The AERO appears to essentially be just a regulator with shroud designed around it to take 13ci tanks, with the main downside being the looks (which I'm not particularly against, most of my stuff gets painted and covered in tape/scraps of material anyway). Does anyone have experiences with either, know of any notable additional pros/cons or have a personal preference either way? Really struggling to make a choice between the two, and wouldn't be shocked if I end up with both eventually. Just canvasing for opinions as there doesn't seem to be a large amount of information out there, especially in the case of the AERO... or I'm just not looking in the right places. Truth be told the post in here by @lukeB is probably the most useful information I've seen to date! Cheers, Alex

I design board games for a living, so suffice to say the dictionary definitions of words often get muddled up with ones I’ve defined in rulebooks to mean something else from time to time! Momentum is very much one of the worst offenders in this case.

That's the one! Seems entirely reasonable, I imagine it'd carry a bit nicer on an AK SU (apologies if this incurs the wrath of the AK Gods, I'm not really an 'AK guy') of some description but a glorious looking chunk of steel for sure.

Aye, those thicc boys really throw the balance off when you're adding a heap of weight that far from the natural 'pivot point' (there is probably an actual term for what I'm trying to say) when handling the RIF. I've found a noticeable difference in how unwieldly the DTSS suppressors feel when used with the G-Spec length barrel versus the 16" and 22" outer barrels. Pretty crazy how the same amount of weight can carry so differently depending on how far from your grip they are.

In my case it would see more use at the very least. Lovely looking bit of kit bud! That the one with the tracer unit in it?

Hahaha, preeeeeach! I’ve found the best way of clearing out those bits and bobs (outside of offering them up during a game day) is slinging them in as freebies to folks that purchase something similar/related from me. Bought some mag pouches? Take a free ‘cheapo’ utility pouch. Bought some mags? Take a free speedloader. So on and so forth, I’d much rather things get used than sit gathering dust until they go thrown out and end up in a land fill.

I'm much the same, I've been through the 'trying to replicate actual military personel' thing carrying a whole heap of extra weight and had a great time while doing so... but as I've got older the less I'm carrying on me the better. Going back to basics, so to speak, while having enough playing experience to know what I do and don't want to be lugging around all day has definitely made me enjoy the game more. Not to say there is a right way to do it, but that's the right way for me.

I think it's a problem born by folks feeling they can't turn up looking like they're new to the hobby (there is certainly a weird stigma around rentals), and feel it's much better to show up 'all gear, no idea'. The cost can ramp up so quickly, especially if you start to go outside of the things you actually need. I think we're all aware that the return on our investments won't tend to be great, two tone only exaggerates that further. It's an easy to hobby to get carried away with and end up some real financial problems from if you're not careful, listings like that one are a pretty painful reminder. If Mr Horus happens to read this, I suspect you'd be lucky to get half of what you paid for everything back... but your best bet of being able to clear the lot would be individual listings. At the very least separating out the RIF and the gear.

Glad for your sake that it's turned out to be a decent optic, but these high quality clones definitely make me less and less likely to purchase second hand optics! Feels like it's getting so much easier to get caught out if you're not 100% certain on what you're looking for to verify authenticity.

The short answer is because airsoft manufacturers don't tend to (mass) produce replicas with optimisation in mind. Very much a case of 'which inner barrel fits in the outer barrel' rather than 'which inner barrel works the best with our cylinder size'.

It varies based on personal preference but most set their hop to get the longest 'flat' trajectory they can. Generally speaking the heavier the ammo, the more hop you need to apply to achieve that flat trajectory. For the most part your spring is the part you're looking at to alter power... which largely effects how quick your BBs reach your target rather than how far you're flinging them. Though they do affect your power output your hop up and barrel are the main pieces in the puzzle which impact your range and accuracy. There are other influencing factors, but that's boiling it down to the basics in terms of which parts do what in terms of performance. Best way to go about setting your hop is arrive at the site early, sling your ammo of choice in some mags and find a good long shooting line. If you have a buddy that can wander out so you have someone to call where they're landing that's great but not necessary. You don't want to be staring down your scope when setting your hop, when you pull the trigger just watch the flight of the BB. Fire 2 shots, then adjust the hop accordingly. Once they're travelling flat and consistently you can move on to zeroing your scope, if possible it's worth taking note of the setting your hop is on... though if you're using allen keys etc that's not necessarily an option.

The reason I mentioned those two patterns specifically is they give some decent concealment in most UK woodland envionments. In my experience MTP/Multicam tends to be too bright to offer much in terms of actual concealment within most UK woodland environments. Though as stated 'good' camo is in no way imperitive, it's more important to get familiar with using your environment. Ghillie/leaf suits are an extension of this making it much easier because they, when put together halfway decently, serve to break up your shape... specifically around your head and shoulders. As mentioned in a previous thread the number one thing that will give away your position is movement, so try to get comfortable with more descreet movements once you're happy you're in a good spot.

Learn your rifle of choice inside and outside, and take note of what it is and isn't capable of. Over expectations lead to frustration, frustration lead to not enjoying it. As a sidenote, don't force yourself to play that way if you're not enjoying it on the day, there is no 'shame' in swapping over to an AEG/GBB/HPA RIF if you're not feeling it. Best advice I can give when it comes to load bearing is work out how you find yourself playing. I use a chest rig because I don't spend much time prone, if you're prone a lot a chest rig can get uncomfortable... in which case a 'battle belt'/yoke or smersh setup is likely a much better fit. Just use whatever works for carrying what you want to carry and is comfortable, there is no 'right' answer. Ghillie/leaf suits are great fun if you want to put the time into them, but they can be a real leech on your time and very much an optional extra. If you want a bit more concealment it's worth taking a look at your surroundings when you're playing, and then using that information to look at camo patterns. There are a lot of fancy ones out there these days, but flecktarn and DPM are great choices in most UK woodland (they shouldn't break the bank either). As another optional, I'd struggle to cope without some form of kneepads. Make sure you have a good, reliable sidearm. When you're dealing with MED (minimum engagement distances) due to the extra power you're kicking out of your rifle you'll need to make sure you've got something to cover the space when folks are too close. Lastly, but most importantly, make sure you're having fun.

I guess the point I was trying to make and having read my post back managed to entirely miss, was my suspicion the root of the disappoint that I feel leads to a lot of these sorts of sales. Using a rif stock should act as your ‘control’ when playing around with putting aftermarket parts in something. Not having that benchmark to gauge the potential improvements from feels like a big miss, and a very easy way to wind up disappointed with your results. Apologies, I suspect I’ve caused this to deviate away from where the topic was.