AlphaBear

And you look like a ghost buster 😂 ’who ya gonna call.......’ But yes I noticed the same observations too. There was no HPA when I stopped playing in 2012 or thereabouts and now it’s everywhere. Granted it seems like an efficient green system to use but it’s that hose and tank. That’s the only thing that puts me off.

Fluffy kittens will die if this happens 😱😱😱

Wash your mouth out with a bottle of whiskey young man! The thought of a drum mag on a MWS 😱😱😱😱😱

Well put it like this, at £50 per mag playing on full auto means you need lots of mags to get through a game without having to faff around reloading in the field so that can be almost the same cost as the rifle or as you say you adapt your play style accordingly to the GBBR...

Remember site limits are usually based on 350fps for 0.2's or the joule equivalent... so based on my figures the G&P bolt is running way too hot.. Incidentally I had to buy a separate G&P NPAS just to dial down the power... however I haven't installed it as yet....

No no don't do that.... you'll be over the joules limit with the G&P bolt and be frog marched off the site... well the gun will be banned... The G&P bolt carrier group is a drop in module... It's also not the only one around... my advice is to stick with the Marui bolt.. you really don't need the G&P bolt carrier group. The stock Marui bolt is absolutely fine. Just get a SIXG brass nub and a High Speed buffer. The brass nub will allow you to lift heavier ammo. You can also change the hop rubber to a modify tan rubber for better lifting....

You're welcome...Plus they make three colours....... there's a youtube video somewhere showing a G&P chap showing off all three 'colours'... I mean it's not like a PTW cylinder where the colour designates the power of the cylinder. I guess you can just bling up the MWS as you see fit (black, silver and hell yeah GOLD baby lol)

Make sure you buy the correct bolt, they make one for the Marui stock and one for the G&P stock. Get the one designated Marui stock tube unless that is you have the G&P buffer tube fitted...

The forces within a GBBR are pretty brutal and so you need good quality BB aamo. I was using Nuprol RZR 0.28 on my last game and I had a catastrophic failure which caused BB's to shatter consequently ripping my hop rubber and buggering up the nozzle. The only reason I used Nuprols was because I was changing between my AEG and MWS during the day and I couldn't be asked to run 2 sets of BB's and stick Geoff's into the MWS.... lesson learned! From my perspective use either Geoff's, G&G, BLS and I believe LongBow too.. Fire support recommend G&G over the others as their quality is top notch... these are my views of course... other members may have a different opinion

The tolerances are there coz of the nature of the platform. Also don’t use crappy quality bbs. And yes with a much powerful gas the MWS really is something else!

Stop worrying about things. It’s fine. It’s a GBBR. You are gonna drive yourself crazy over things you don’t need to worry about. Lol. When it breaks then worry. In the meantime just enjoy it. Not that we can play at the moment. Meh! And did you buy it from new? If so nothing to worry about. The MWS is awesome out of the box. Simple.

For those who want to know what power you get from using Abbey Ultra Predator gas (the one that comes in a red can) see the attached pic. I did some testing using 0.3 Geoffs and 0.2 Excels at a temperature of 20c (I do believe). The left side shows a virgin G&P bolt carrier group. On the right is the standard Marui bolt. The max figure for the G&P bolt was 387fps!! With the Marui bolt it was 329fps on 0.2s. Interesting results eh? The mag was filled up each time fresh of course which explains the initial high power.

This is the tool I'm on about. One of our members made one.....

I believe that MK18 barrel nut is the same spec as the standard MWS barrel nut. If so one just needS a metal tube of the correct diameter and then mill out the notches in the tube to fit the barrel nut. Drill a hole out on the muzzle end and then shove a metal bar through it for leverage. Twist. That should do it, surely? Of course my theory depends upon the MK18 nut being the same as the MWS nut.

Video of it dumping in full auto please..... Asking for a friend like...

Try some different gas first... Abbey Green for the warmer times and Abbey Ultra Predator (red can) for the colder temperatures.. then see what type of power you get... if that still doesn't satisfy your needs then either a Angry Gun NPA nozzle or a G&P NPAS valve... there is also an RATech one. I have both an Angry Gun and a G&P one. I've only tested the AG one and it works well with no hiccups... (but is surplus to my requirements coz my G&P NPAS will go into my G&P bolt).

I know right. I mean what the #bleep does that actually mean? 😂

Now this ain't bad at all... I mean its made me want to get out there, don a boonie and run around a jungle in the rain sliding around in the mud!

Yeah that’s true. Once the correct tool becomes available we will all have a laugh about it.

Exactly what I have gone and done.

Yup it sure does look nice..... it's similar to the madbull colour if not the same... they probably use the same RAL codes? The fundamental problem with the Mk18 MWS is that the hop rubber can't be changed easily coz you can't get the bloody rail off and ergo the barrel out. That is correct yes?

I thought the MWS MK18 rail is already FDE/tan/bronze or whatever in colour already?

Otherwise a tungsten carbide cutting bit should do it... but be careful you don't nick the barrel or rail... Dremel do a cutting/milling bit which will eat up the metal easily...

Damn! That’s the infamous MK18 with the almost impossible barrel nut isn’t it? I would have suggested using the correct tool to remove it but that may not be possible now as you’ve lost the teeth.