SSPKali

"Silent fill o-rings" are the ones you pop in to stop the air venting as you fill the mag. TM mags are meant to vent air as the liquid gas fills up, this allows them to hold more gas and work more efficiently. With gas mags you should always fill for 1 second then stop, remove the nozzle, wait 4-5 seconds then fill for 1s again. Keep doing this until the mag is venting Propane from the fill valve (not just air) If it is second hand I would spend some time taking the valves out (fill and knocker), giving it all a good clean and checking the o-rings for wear / deformation. Re-assemble with quality thick Silicone oil and try again.

Handily I can't post on that group as they have refused to let me join. He doesn't say *what* is jamming? The bolt? The valve/NPAS? Silver RATech will jam in a TM nozzle and needs sanding to move smoothly. A quick and cheap option for him to try is to glue a 0.1mm gear box shim to the back of the TM valve. That will close the gap the gas flows through a tad and will drop the FPS. A bit trial and error but worth a shot!

I would have thought that the valves for longer barrels would let through LESS gas to avoid massive joule creep? I could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time! Maybe we need to club together to buy the low, mid and high and test them out on our set ups and pass them round to get a ground truth for them?

I can confirm that the Hao one DOESN'T need filing to fit It is also worth every penny, how they make something so well. at that price is amazing.

I found the stop gave lower FPS (260fps?) on the "high" setting than the stock TM one. Mid and Low were noticeably less (220fps and 150fps IIRC?) This was with 0.30g BBs and a 255mm barrel I took 0.1mm off the prongs on the front and it raised the FPS quite a bit (+30 to +50fps depending on setting) so only a small change in position makes a HUGE difference in the output of the gun.

Hey, it was the adjustable valve STOP, not the adjustable valve. The stop is the part on the end nozzle spring that has the thin screw go through it and hold it in place. There are 3 holes drilled in it at different points round the circumference and they hold the stop at different depths. The little pin tool is there to align it before putting the screw in.

"Total beast" - will have you swearing at it in the first game "Fully upgraded" - ...and I had these bits left over 🤪 "L119A2" - picture is of H&K 416.... "Video of it working available" - see what you could have won... (example here:

Might do, the bolt might be moving too fast for the catch to stop it, backing the buffer out 1 turn might be enough to do it. TBH you have tried everything else!

Probably because of a light strike on the gas valve due to the pressure in the mag. Once the pressure drops a little the valve knocker can open the valve fully = higher FPS. +1 for Geoffs No issues with 0.32g in CQB, it is still the same energy as a 0.20g moving a lot faster 🤷‍♂️

Might be worth speaking to your local airsoft store and seeing if next time they are putting an order in they can get a box for you and if they can do a bulk deal (as it will be in-and-out and not sitting on the shelf for weeks or months!)

I had a packet of 0.32g that I meant to test. I ran some different BBs through my MWS last night to test the grouping and zero my sight. I shot Vorsk 0.30g, Longbow tracer 0.30g, Blaster 0.32g, Valkyrie 0.32g and Guarder 0.36g at 10m from a clamped rifle. Guarder were the most consistent (15mm square box) next best was the Vorsk 0.30g (20mm square box) but the Valkyrie were the worst with a letterbox spread of 35x25mm. Guess they don't play nice with my MWS. If I get bored I might try in my AEGs (M4 or MP5) to see if they react differently. YMMV

+/- 2fps on a GBBR? I call BS 😁 I am not sure all vertical deviation is due to fps fluctuations, I imagine that hop up and ammo will have a bigger impact on this. I tested mine at 10m last night and even with the fps changes I put 5 Guarder 0.36g BBs all in a 15mm square box. Other brands and weights (two 0.30g and one 0.32g) were up to a 25mm x 35mm box (sideways spread) I would get some samples of BBs (both different brands and weights) and see which plays best with your set up. If you want to DM me I am happy to post you a baggie of the different ones I have to save a small fortune on BBs 😁

What spread of FPS are you getting now? If it is much more than +/-10 (so 20fps in total) maybe look at changing something. Best to test in 20degC and pause between shots to avoid mag cool down impacting the test (and don't over fill the mag with gas!) Everything TM with the DP valve gave me the best results and was +/-5fps vs +/-8fps for stock TM. Hardly worth worrying about!

That adaptor just looks like a HUGE version of the little fold-down one you get on speedloaders. Nuprol looks just like the TM one? So why didn't you buy a Nuprol M4 instead of the MWS? LOL 🤣 I have been using the TM one on new and second hand mags for 2+ years with zero issues.

I have a Mk2 AG nozzle and it seems much better than the Mk1 (even ignoring the piston cup that expanded then dissolved when in contact with *any* kind of oil!) Plus the new version of the Dynamic Precision nozzle seems better and not as brittle as the old shiny one. FPS is within +/-7fps between 20 shots so on par with the stock set up. Aftermarket valve springs (I think DP in my case) add about 25fps for 0.30g in my experience. Cutting a coil off them brings it back down to close on the TM one. I have a couple of TM nozzles and valve springs (have a spare valve from Eagle6 already) on their way from HK as insurance against disasters / parts shortages. 😁

I don't think there would be extra stress involved as the pressure of the gas would be constant. A longer barrel simply allows a larger volume of gas a longer time to accelerate the BB, before the rocket valve closes and the bolt cycles. Slightly more gas per shot, higher BB speed but no change in the pressure of the system.

You are running the Dynamic Precision valve stopper not the one G&P supply with the 4.0 valve - this might be causing the issue? Moving the stop point forward or back a fraction of a mm can have a BIG influence on the FPS.

Standard set up was giving me 268fps on 0.30g with ASG gas (green gas) at 14degC Sanding the prongs down on the G&P stopper gave a better range of FPS, stock it was a bit low. High is now 295fps so will be good for cold days. Middle is now 265fps in current weather so ok for now (12-18degC) There are people who have had good results from making the TM valve into an NPAS by drilling a 2.5mm hole then threading in a hot 3mm grub screw into it.

What weight BBs are you using? What length barrel? The stock set up and 250mm barrel will be fine on 0.20 to 0.25g...any heavier and Joule creep is a pain. What NPAS have you been using? The G&P valve stop (https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gp-marui-mws-gbb-adjustable-piston-valve) is good for having a low / med / high setting and no chance of adjusting its self. Search back a few pages and I posted some test data on it

Small purchase but a great mod / upgrade if you frequent dark CQB sites. 2mm x 6mm green Tritium vial from https://www.iceatope.co.uk/ that cost about £8 posted and a drop of super glue onto the front sight of my Cyma CM041 MP-5. Green is the brightest so probably the one to go for, it won't do anything in daylight like a fibre optic one would but then you can see where the BBs are going! I added one to my shotty a few years ago and really helped getting faster shots on target in dark rooms / sites. That front sight wasn't protected like the MP-5 so it did get smashed at CHD when it was kicking about the FOB for a weekend.

I would but they are all assembled as I have been testing them! One day when I am bored I will EDIT I have measured the very old and worn TM one and the "old" but less used DP one - the DP is 0.41mm longer over all. New pic is the TM (left) and Old DP (right) side by side. It seems that the lightweight bolt has worse issues with low fps randomness. I think that certain combinations of bolt and nozzle mean the the BB can be seated too deep in the bucking meaning less fps and hop. New TM bucking with 4 clicks on the adjuster...may need one or two more but I only have a 10m range! DP nozzle with DP valve and G&P stop (low) in a DP lightweight bolt is giving 260fps (0.30g, ASG gas, 14degC) Same set up with G&P stop in the mid position = 315fps. No weird drops in power, all nice and consistent TM bolt with AG Mk2 complete nozzle is giving 270fps +/-5fps. Plenty of adjustment either way to compensate for the weather and ammo weight. I have the TM and AG Mk1 nozzles as spare spares should I trash the other two!

I have been using the TM nozzle and had a DP one as a spare. I tested it the other day and found a slight FPS increase (I think it seats deeper in the bucking)....and then the back ripped off it! Mine was probably purchased 18mths ago and the spare from JKArmy (here in 5 days!) looks like a less shiny (less brittle?!) plastic. I need to give it a proper test but initial thoughts are the TM valve doesn't fit as it is a hair too large a diameter. The alloy DP one is fine. My TM nozzle has been giving inconsistent FPS (265, 266, 264, 150, 265...wait what?) and I think that is to do with the wear around the part that seals on the bucking.

I have the 10.5" version and can confirm it is 14mm CCW.

No experience with their ambi selector but I have a full set of their tigger internals and the materials, fit and finish are top notch. Might get some more of their stuff in the future.

Not sure what the physical difference in the internals but the out-of-the-box efficiency means that the "green gas" mod (chopping the fill tube) isn't needed. Search for Baddabing's MWS video on Youtube as I think he covered this last year (MWS 4 years later video?!)