Nick G

If you want a C8 / L119 then your only real option is to build one , especially if you are wanting aeg. Lots of short M4's out there though . Have a browse through some retailers sites and go from there. Do you have a UKARA ? that will obviously limit your buying options if not.

Round counter functions ! Done a bit of paint on the underslung too, gone for the Halfords camo black on that.

I'm not sure it's any of those spacers tbh, I dont have an MWS so not entirely familiar with how they go together. Worth asking on the MWS thread maybe. If you just want the rail black, then Halfords camo sprays are very good. Remove the rail from the gun for easier painting. Use a decent primer first. There are several good videos on youtube about spraying a rif (or anything else tbf) the process is the same.

The one from Fire support states it needs a barrel set or spacer to fit a TM MWS which I assume your MK18 is. Why not just paint the existing rail ?

Is it just me that thinks that trigger guard is going to catch on everything ?

I actually find a foam filled supressor on an AEG makes quite a difference, not to the user as the gearbox 'thump' is right next to you, however to those in front the sound becomes much more muted and harder to locate. Using a tracer type supressor won't make any difference though.

I seem to recall it came from Patrol base, I'll see if I've still got details. Used an adapter on place of the standard flash hider to bring the threads up to the usual 14mm - https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/metal-100x35mm-dummy-sound-suppressor Think it's that one, but showing out of stock at the mo https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/lees-precision-engineering-cnc-machined-14mm-ccw-thread-adapter-for-umarex-vfc-and-ksc-kwa-mp7 And the adapter

G36C rails fit the sides of the A1. Not had any issues with mine, it's a great little gun. Use it as a primary at the local woodland site on occasion.

It does indeed, When I first started to build my L119A2 GBBR I used a long rail and locked it to semi with an output of just undre 1.9j , gamed it that way about twice before switching to the short version and fitting an NPAS. I just didn't find the extra power outwieged the MED hassle Best way to improve range without getting caught up in 30M MED's is to take a look at the hop. Have a look on the MWS thread about what can be done. My WE GBBR's can happily match any aeg for range and accuracy so the MWS certainly should be able to. I never use F/A either, with 30 round mags it's all about working closer, picking your shots and maybe double tapping

Depends what you want to achieve and where you play. Some sites will only accept a DMR based on a platform that is 7.62 IRL. If that's not an issue then if you are building a DMR you'll want to think about power level. The whole point of semi locking is to alow you run higher power levels, my local site allows 1.9j for a DMR with a MED of 30M, lots of sites seem to work on 1.6j for a DMR. What power level are you getting at the moment ? a longer inner barrel will generally increase the power level of a GBBR .

The base to use longer mags is certainly a good idea. The whole board etc for the counter looks very basic to me, but I'm a complete tech phobe so it might be programable I guess.

ups, that'll be the issue then ! yep mention it to the retailer , they need to know what a crock of shit their delivery service are so they can use something better.

That's the next thing fo me to take a look at. Hope to get it functional , 30 round mags so it'll only count down to 65 but I can live with that .

Any update on this 1st commando ?

Real steel style, my GBBR's are the same.

That's seen some abuse !

Thats weird, wonder if it's a nuprol thing. Ive fitted the Angry gun L119 A2 front rail to both a WE GBBR and an aeg and than only comes with 1 barrel nut. Might have used a single shim behind it on the GBBR's from memory but thats all I did.

Needs a better name, cos the abbreviation of NAF isn't really selling it ! 🤣

That's certainly the route I'd go if I had access to a lathe. May yet end up doing it that way as I've still got a spare barrel. More for the purpose of supprting the body tbh, everything is solid on the current mock up which is now cycling fine.

How old is it ? if you've only just got it then I'd send it back. Certainly on my G18 the trigger doesn't release the hammerif the slide is off. As I recal the last Raven 17 I had on the bench had the same issue of the hammer getting stuck down. If you decide to replace the hammer unit , the WE one fits the Raven , however the last Raven 17 I had apart needed a WE G18 hammer unit.

I'd do that , save buying mags untill you get your UKARA and order your first RIF, then get mags to match,

Those guns are some sort of M4 , M4 mags should fit. Whilst most are not model specific there are some that are , but you should be ok with any generic M4 mag. Can you not take a bottle or bag os BB's out with you during the game and then just refill the mag that comes with the rental ?

Probably easier to start from scratch and reshim the whole box tbh since the shimming of any 2 gearboxes is never quite the same . There are quite a few decent tutorials on youtube . Have a stab at it, there are folk on here who can advise if you run into serious issues.

I've started a build thread of sorts for the Pulse rifle in the gas guns section 😁 I've put a couple of pictures of waht I have done to secure the hop in a build thread thing in 'gas guns'

The body fits pretty well, I've had to take a little bit off it in certain places where it was very tight, still making adjustments to that but the first proper mock up looks decent. The round counter sets to 95 when the mag is in as it should. Small micro swith and circuit board fits into the top of the mag well. I've yet to solder up the sensor that should count it down as rounds are fired. This fits into the front of the outer garrel inside the triangular support. I've now added the stock to the mock up and that works fine (although it wont retract fully because of the angle ally on the upper) The gun cycles but sticks on the mag occasionally, this doesn't seem to happen outside of the body so when it's apart again I need to see if something is affecting the mag position slightly. It's very much a work in progress with lots of things to solve along the way and going to be a longish project but I think the cool factor when it's done will be worth it.