Adolf Hamster

well fucking played sir, that was a genuine lol

a fair point, i mean we got half a dozen pages before losing the plot at least

yeah, although nowhere near as egregious in my book if they still get steered towards something decent.

indeed, although in fairness an RIF is a not insignificant chunk of one's hard earned and especially when starting out, so it makes sense to reccommend the safest option in terms of reputation. after all, if someone asks for help and gets a bad steer it looks bad on us and potentially puts someone off the hobby.

I'm no stranger to thread derailments but this one has taken a very weird turn and i'm not sure we're in kansas any more....

pics?

yeah i've seen co2 at "1200", although that was on one of those relatively cheap shell filler setups so probably not the most accurate gauge, and on a very warm day. still no-joke levels of pressure to be trusting to something made by an unknown brand.

i just use one of the amazon mats and a bunch of glass dishes for small parts, only downside is you need to eat a bunch of GU cheesecakes to get the dishes.

thought it was more like 900-1000? although i can't remember where i got that number from. that's excluding the slp stuff admittedly. either way 650psi is still a lot of boom if it fails the wrong way.

totally agree, good to see something to fill the void between the cyma's and real swords when it comes to SVD's.

Only 350 to crack it? Fucking hell. Kudos to the fella for actually testing it, i'm sure he's glad now he's seeing the crack from outside the lense.

I wouldnt bother, you're spending that much on the whole setup anyway. Remember this thing is getting fed 1000psi, thats a not-trivial amount of energy this thing has to hold together do you really trust it?

i think that's being a little too generous to ups it's more like the newspaper boy dumping the papers on a sunny day to go play with his mates.

I dunno, back emf is why i'm not allowed in the electrical labs any more.....

think that's what he's referring to- the battery flagging due to being overloaded. welcome to airsoft. remember we are talking about a hobby where nimh is still common, tamiya connectors are bloody everywhere and brushless motors are only just now becoming a thing. part of is is simply that a lot of the draw will depend on a load, which varies wildly depending on the build of the gun.

this is a fair assessment, i have the same thing with chrono'ing, it's amazing how so many places look at a correct joule reading on .48g bb's and remark that the fps looks low. kinda scary really how easily bypassed it is (and lets not get started on swapping guns mid day/in game chrono'ing) it's not like decent eye pro is that expensive either, certainly i've never spent as much on eyepro as this guy is charging for his questionable helmet.

as above, c rating x capacity gives the rated current. for example the above batteries in arwen's pic the nuprol has it calculated for us, but the turnigy is rated at 1.5x35=52.5A continuous draw 105A burst draw. the motor will try to draw what it wants based on the voltage regardless of what the battery wants to do, and a motor that tries to over-draw is equivalent to mildly shorting the battery. as EDcase says an over-drawn battery will drop voltage but that's not a situation you want to be relying on. in mild cases this will reduce battery life, but in extreme cases can cause the battery to burn. as a general rule if the battery physically fits in the gun there is zero downside to over-rating the battery in terms of capacity (more mah generally = bigger battery) or C-rating (which generally means more expensive battery). if the gun is too fast then you can either reduce the voltage, or change the motor/gears but you do not want to reduce the current capacity as a means of dropping rof.

sadly this is also my experience. think a lot of them rely heavily on the concept of personal responsibility when it comes to this stuff.

odin m12 (original not a clone), buy adaptors, profit

remember having a debate a while back on here someone was suggesting that the ol' point blank with a bolty was ott because snipers have MED. i must admit part of me envied them if they've never run into a spicy pew, or med breaker in their entire airsofting careers.

problem with paint jobs is even if it's an excellent job done by a skilled painter such as geartech, it will still have been done to the aesthetic choice of whoever commissioned it. which puts off any buyers except the ones who have exactly the same taste, and for anyone who doesn't share said taste it's a very difficult to reverse modification to the point of not being worth it for all but the most special pews.

i used to run .32's mainly in mine with .48's saved for special occasions (but i would still run them on auto like a madman) the only real difference is gonna be in your dwell settings, however if you get it dialed in on one ammo weight then just note down the settings before dialing it in for another. hop wise, well it depends how you set it up, but i have had guns that needed shimming to lift the super heavies and as a result would space anything too light. this is probably more relevant if you're jumping massively in power level between battle rifle and dmr. bearing in mind, whilst semi-locking on an hpa can easily be done electronically, some sites might require mechanical locking too/wont be happy with the notion of being able to switch to auto even on a mechanically locked system by spending 30 seconds in the fcu menu. wouldn't bother with a longer barrel- stick a big foam can on the end and enjoy the quietness instead.

.48's in the makarov was a fun one, sure it'd reach out but at a mere 0.75j you had to fire in the morning game and hope after lunch someone would pick the wrong spot to stand in gave up with that malarkey after realising i was changing bulged nozzles nearly as often as i was changing magazines and the thing was shooting further than i can actually aim a pistol anyway.....

don't worry, it's pretty counter-intuiitive. i had the same confusion so like the complete nerd i am sat down and did the maths on it: basically if you're firing at the same muzzle energy, and your hop unit can spin it, then heavier is always better for range. travelling slower does mean you gotta learn to lead properly, but then that's just part of what passes in airsoft for marksmanship. it's really satisfying when you get it right and the target literally walks into the round.

yeah, it's been set to something. ahh well, probably not the best idea to indulge in rubbernecking anyway.