Adolf Hamster

try ak2m4, does a decent range of nozzles.

isn't that just the thing with the specna's though, they started off pretty damn good then went downhill? yep they both work. i normally go for the maple leaf macaron+omega nub, however some guns can have feeding issues with the slightly longer feedlips on the ml stuff so the PDI W would be my go-to for those situations. g&g green is decent, really depends how heavy the ammo you wanna use is. yeah but them 2m is exactly where buggers like me are standing it's true though, all it takes is the site's chrono after years of living in a damp shed and filled with the schrapnel of innumerable tube strikes to be innaccurate and the site will go "nope you're 1fps over get out of here you filthy cheating scum" being a little bit under is preferable to not being allowed to play. overspin is the motor/gears having enough momentum to haul your gears around for a second time, PME is the sector spinning so fast it does a full circuit before the piston has finished moving forwards. overspin isn't strictly a problem, although it is generally a sign that the box is spinning fast, which is the same root cause as PME. overspin can be fixed with mosfets that use active braking. if you're planning on short stroking and are worried about volume take a look at the port on the cylinder- you need the piston to be going at least that far back.

i was under the impression RIF was pretty much anything covid karen would look at and think "that's a gun", except pre 1875 designs (ie not very good guns) for example the aps uar, as whilst we might go "well technically...." but the whole point is that a non-gun nerd would still identify it as such as for air guns, surely their defence for being an RIF is by dint of being firearms, ie it's not imitating it simply is.

is it worth contacting border force to ask what the problem is? if it's as simple as they haven't put your ukara number on the package they might be fine once you've told them? otherwise wasn't it @Asomodai had one of his guns seized and eventually got it?

20rps should be fine then. yep that's your problem right there. you could try a PDI W-hold, it's my go-to bucking for when the maple leaf stuff has feeding issues.

What was the fps before? If the springs intact and you havent messed with short stroking/thrust bearings then it shouldnt be dropping energy. I'd be looking first at air seal, specifically the hop as thats what you changed, a change in feed lip length could be losing you compression. Double spinning isnt in itself an issue, but might indicate she's going a tad fast, whats the rof in auto? Fps drop on auto (but not semi) is a sign of pme if your pushing her too fast. Been a while since i've run an shs ht but if memory serves they're much faster than the term high torque would imply, certainly on 11.1 i can see it pme'ing not so sure on 7.4, this is more ducks territory. If your aim is trigger response (or more accurately lock time- how long between pulling the trigger and the round going downrange) then you'd be better off looking at mosfets with precocking like the gate warfet, it'll make the semi auto nice and snappy but not require excessive auto rate of fire and cure the overspin at the same time.

It sounds like a connection issue, either between the fcu and the triggerboard or the triggerboard and the solenoid. If the fcu is saying fire when the trigger is pulled we know at least the switch and fcu are working ok.

Suppose now i think about it this might not be the worst idea. Wether it drops the fps enough and/or deals with the overvoluming (although on an aeg overvolume isn't too bad) at the desired length is the question though. Still reckon a dedicated assault gun would be better, you'd get auto and much less faff to swap configs. Plus who doesnt need an excuse to get a second gun?

chop or change the spring

heard the wide bores were decent if you could get the volume for them, they tend to be more suggested to pair up with hpa systems than aeg's. not surprising it's dropping the fps, it's an intentional air leak after all.

i do agree there, yes all those cases can have legitimate whoopsies, shit does indeed happen. the problem is identifying when it crosses that line for example between an extra couple of rounds that were already in the air to holding the trigger down even after the hand goes up. yep, and it is responsible for a lot of issues. reminds me of the fake dead walk discussion we had on here a while back about abusing people's trust by walking around with the demeanor of someone who's not currently playing. for sure you're gonna get tagged, ask any marshal how many times they've been dandering along to catch a round because someone saw a hat moving through the hedges and fired even the high-vis won't always help. i'll openly admit to having been on the sending and receiving ends of that sort of mistake more times than i can remember. it's not generally something worth getting worked up about. of course there's a line between one round to somewhere padded just to be sure and jumping straight into a full broadside or deciding to go directly for the squishy bits, which is what folk do if they can't trust that someone who looks dead (hand up or no) is in fact dead.

it's a character trait i don't understand. i mean if you wanted to out macho the other guy surely you'd be doing paintball instead? it's why statements like "oh don't be a wuss" really annoy me when talking about things like intentional headshots in this game, like disliking pain is somehow a character flaw.

If it was an hpa yes, you could swap uppers and just remember the pressure/fcu settings for each config. But aeg it's more hassle than its worth.

Yeah i really dislike those games ever since seeing 2 fellas dump their entire ammo stock into each others arms point blank and walk off coated in blood.

You'd be better off with a second gun tbh.

there does come a point where it bridges from annoying to impressive. worst i heard of (although didn't witness) was someone shrugging off a close range rinsing with a 40-mike.

quite possibly, never bought a gat from tg but i wouldn't be surprised if they did the same.

that it does, although almost exclusively linked to issues in re-assembly rather than the power change in and of itself. being horrifically underpowered is unfortunately rather common, if it's a bit spicy and needs a downgrade retailers have a nasty habit of just whacking in the flimsiest spring they can find and calling it a day. needless to say this can cause problems (especially pme related problems) on some guns. the only shop i've seen do it properly is gunfire- they actually cut the spring and do a pretty damn good job of getting within, but not stupidly under, the limit.

the flash hider isn't too hard. the actual replacement is available on TG (although postage might be a problem): https://www.taiwangun.com/dummy-flash-suppressor-muzzle-brake/flash-hider-for-akm-replica-cyma?from=listing&campaign-id=19 it's a standard 14mm ccw thread so most aftermarket suppressors/muzzle devices will fit (including western style stuff if you wanna be a heretic). if you're wanting to stay russian themed bear in mind a lot of the aftermarket stuff uses the 24mm clockwise thread, although often they'll come with adapters such as: https://www.taiwangun.com/dummy-flash-suppressor-muzzle-brake/muzzle-brake-for-ak-grizzly-cyma?from=also-viewed&campaign-id=8 the front post is a bit harder, i'm afraid my search of the usual suspects has turned up a blank.

yeah that general idea. that's the tricky part of the design, although it is possible to get that level of sensitivity, for example scales work pretty much the same way just slower. it wouldn't necessarily need to be massively accurate, just enough to tell if my ".2's honest guvnor" is actually firing .4's, and there's nothing says you cant back it up with a regular chrono mechanism to determine the velocity. it would need to be a bb trap, if the bb gets caught then you know all its energy has been transferred.

i preferr my fantasy world where people are honest. although i admit yours is possible more attainable...... that's the idea, although point 4 onwards present the biggest challenges. hardest part would be reliable bb capture and getting the precision, of course if you coupled it with a regular chrono it might only need to be accurate enough to detect the liars. yep, i blame google, when you look up "fps calculator" it's all links to figuring out why fortnite is running slowly. yep,

to expand for those who might be unfamiliar with the term, joule creep is the phenomenon that some airsoft gats (namely gas blowbacks, hpa and some bolt actions) can have varying energy outputs purely by changing what weight of ammo they're firing. so someone could chrono their gbb using a site's .2g's and pass chrono just fine, slap in the .4g ammo they normally shoot in-game and suddenly it's hitting a lot harder. needless to say many sites/people might not even know this is happening. chronographing on player weight does eliminate the issue of accidental use of joule creep, however it does allow (but also require the cheater) players to simply lie about the weight of ammo they're using. the jury's out on which method is better (using site .2g or player weight) which is why you'll see sites using one or the other. might reverse the tables for creep suseptible gats though, if you're in-game weight/energy is lower. you could keep stock of the common weights to test individual cases but that applies as much when using .2's as the site ammo. still think the ballistic pendulum idea has legs.

the whole point of this thread is irrationally disliking guns even if you admit to yourself they're actually pretty good, not meant to be too serious

i know, ended up importing a pk1 which is a wonderful bit of kit, doesn't work indoors but it's still a head turner (and a few stomachs admittedly). very purple though..... although it does teach you the meaning of the term "bore offset" i'd love a 1p29, not because i think it's good but because my god that's a weird optic.....

I do agree, although aside from the pso, pk-a and kobra there's not a lot of options for dedicated siderail optics in the repro market. Which is a shame because a lot of the siderail stuff is the most steampunk glass you can get.