Adolf Hamster

an equally valid point. generally when i've shimmed the sector and more on to the idler if it's contacting with only 0.1 under it then it gets shimmed too (as well as shimmed to prevent contact with the sector) ultimately if nothing is binding/jamming, everything spins smooth regardless of orientation and the bevel is in a good spot for motor mesh it really doesn't matter how you get there. best boxes to shim are a&k lmg boxes, the open bottom might be awful design for preventing crap getting in but it sure does make visual checking of shimming a breeze.

hey you stole my idea!!!! 😡😡😡😡 j/k i do agree on most lmg's, of all the ones i've seen/used the pkm seems to be the most useful of the heavy bunch, or at least the only one i've used that was worth holding onto rather than setting it down and running around with a pistol. haven't used enough mp7's to comment one way or the other. for me (sorry in advance @Asomodai ) but it's bullpups. my first pew was a g&g f2000 and whilst i loved it the moment i expanded into collecting "normal" rifles i just couldn't use it the same after that and the only time she ever got fielded was when i felt guilty for not having fielded her for ages. i think the issue is that the advantages that bullpups have are very specific to a modern mechanised army and don't really add benefit either as a RS civilian shooter (where barrel length for velocity/terminal ballistics isn't a big concern) or in airsoft (where barrel length is mostly meaningless), but the downsides of awkward handling and awful triggers are more noticable. but i still think they're cool, and thanks to a certain mustachioed youtuber i currently want an airsoft vhs2 even though i know it'll probably be terrible and anyone who releases an affordable groza will be forgiven for any and all sins. the WE makarov, i still stand by my position of it being by far the best airsoft makarov on the market, and yes it can be made to have excellent range/accuracy for a pistol, but the gas efficiency is, well, isn't and you can forget using it in winter (if i'm honest late autumn/early spring too) as anything other than a holster filler. and it does wear out quickly unlike tm's ending up all rattly, out of the box it won't lift anything heavier than .2's, the hop design may be excellent but the tiny ass range of adjustment it has meaning you gotta shim it for a very narrow range of ammo weight, the range on super heavies might be hilarious but you'll be swapping bulged nozzles pretty much every other mag, the piston head is WE's godawful hard plastic, and the paint finish just isn't as nice as it could be and the sights are terrible. but all that said it's still a lovely handling pistol with both that comblock charm and that sort-of-a-ppk bond cool and it's awesome and i love it and i kinda regret selling mine even if i hardly ever used it. also, (contraversial) the m4 (well, ar15 derivative rifle)...... nothing to do with the ergonomics/handling/myriad of parts available for tinkering meaning you can lego build a platform exactly to your needs. but as a gun to work on they are bloody awful. getting the gearbox out of one is such a massive massive pain in the arse compared to many other designs on the market especially so when you have bolt releases, fake dust covers, ambi mag catches etc to mess around with in the dissassembly. the pistol grip also being the motor cage is a shit design which i'm thankful they learned their lesson on. as an example- to remove the gearbox from my last m4 (e&c body but most of the points apply to any variant) you had to pop off the upper (with the whole charging handle shimmy that entails and checking nothing fell out/went sproing), remove the buttstock (which needed pliers), punch out the pin on the bolt release to remove it and allow the unscrewing of the mag release, remove the bottom of the grip, pull the contacts off the motor and remove that, fish around the bottom of the grip to get those screws undone followed by fishing around the stock tube to unscrew that bolt (which is worse trying to line up for reassembly) then shake the gun around to fish out the section that joins the stock bolt to the stock (whilst being thankful it's not one of those ones where it isn't removable and you have a tiny tiny ass hole to feed the wires through), remove the clip from the rear body pin then remove the rear body pin then punch out the trigger pin and after all that you can now start the process of wiggling the gearbox out of the gun. whereas an e&l akm? pop top cover, remove bolt guide and fake bolt (all toolless so far) 2 nuts for the magwell spacer, 3 bolts for the hop, slide hop forward, one bolt to pull off the selector lever, one bolt for the grip then just wiggle the box out. or the aforementioned g&g f2000? pop the buttplate, 2 bolts, wiggle gearbox out the back. but goddamn an m4 when setup nice (read: not covered in 3 tonns of unnessecary crap) is a hell of a rifle to use.

i tend to like having at least one shim on both sides, normally i'll start with 0.1 under the sector and then add to the top side. same for the idler then i can set the bevel where it needs to be for pinion engagement, then if there's not enough tooth engagement between the beval and idler i'll push the idler/sector up by transferring shims as appropriate.

Must be awesome playing airsoft on a submarine

that would depend on what you're using the gun for, how it currently shoots, and what areas of performance you'd like to improve. for example i could recommend a long list of things to check/change for improving range/accuracy but that would be pointless if the sites you play at have short engagement distances.

see this is why cats are the superior pet- their shit may stink but that's a problem for 2-doors down when he's digging up the flowerbed

🤢🤮 🤢🤮 🤢🤮 🤢🤮

*wipes brow, pleased he will live to see another day*

as a fellow largeman i've never got on with PC's, adding 2+" of overhang just makes an awkward situation even more awkward. it's one of the reasons i've stuck with belt rigs (in particular the smersh), you get a decent setup adjusted right it's a lot more comfortable.

not entirely, I did for a while entertain the thought that @ImTriggerHappy was negative airsoft until @Armourpiercing showed up *awaits severe burning for that one*

don't worry, we've all been there

i'm starting to wonder if we have a double agent on this board. might be going crazy, but it seems ever since we regained @Rogerborg we seem to have lost @Sitting Duck are they in fact the same person? maybe split personalities?

sorry, must have missed this post last night. don't really have a guide, it's as simple as stuffing a tiny o-ring under the hop adjustment wheel to give it a bit of friction. certainly if you're wanting to push it to the point of short-stroking. the ak build i mentioned earlier was a 455mm barrel but it wasn't short-stroked. generally i tend to go with just don't change the barrel length so you don't have to start messing around with voluming, although it's perfectly plausible to run a shorter barrel than the outer to enable short-stroking.

whatever it is reckon only way to be sure is to pull her apart again.

could be, the col should be kicking the trolley up and the spring pulls it back over the trigger. last time i had this issue was with a boneyard mp5 where the trigger and trolley weren't matched, but i'm assuming that's not the case here.

without wishing to sound too obvious, but the return spring hasn't popped off the trolley?

ahh, you might be able to add a small o-ring? some g&g hop wheels have a little cutout for an o-ring in them to prevent that happening.

i feel compelled to ask why you want incremental clicks? the only hop i'm aware of for an m4 with clicks was the one that came with the ascu module, but that is such utter utter garbage i wish i didn't know it existed.

i'd suggest looking at the stainless ZCI 6.02's @ak2m4 sells, excellent barrels for the money. is there anything particularly wrong with the stock unit?

warfet would be the obvious choice, same contacts as the nano so literal plug and play.

it may well do that, but it could also open up alignment issues if it isn't a good fit for the receiver. why do you want to add a sorbo pad? so far i've only ever seen one piston actually be broken in an airsoft gun and that was a g&g polymer head that had been hammered by a combination of terrible air seal compensated for by a stupid strong spring. you don't want the piston impact to be too spongey, otherwise the aoe will change from when you set it on the workbench to when you have the spring in the gun.

it's worth picking up a chrono for doing your own tech work, it's the closest thing to some range time to estimate how good a gun is gonna shoot. as for the gearing etc i'm still gonna advocate looking into mosfets with precocking, it'll make for a big improvement in semi response without needing to push the gun faster in auto.

i don't think it's actually a slide, looks more like a bolt mauser style? would make sense with the then fixed optic rail the scorpion evo selector was meant to be a lesson not a challenge.......

am i missing the context here?

my last ak build ran one of those motors on 13:1 on 7.4v came out ~20rps, i'd put good money on that same setup with 11.1v eating any piston you throw at it. whats your current rof? setting aoe properly won't hurt but if the problem is pme then something is still gonna get shredded. if your goal is better semi auto response then you're going to be much better off running a lower powered battery and using a mosfet with precocking to make up the difference. if you do want to preserve auto rof then you're gonna have to start looking at short-stroking, which will depend on the barrel length/cylinder volume you've got to play with. however what i will say is if you can't get someone to call a hit at 20rps then that's a failure of the target not the gun and doubling the rof will not solve the problem.