Adolf Hamster

you just keep telling yourself that you'll remember until, when you least expect it, you'll forget

soldering is a fun one, at the risk of getting flamed whatever you do don't ask an electronic engineer anything about it. because it'll be "you gotta have a 300w temperature controlled iron with adjustable tips and you've gotta use xxx type of solder with yyy type of flux and don't use those sponge things use the brillo pad instead for cleaning because the tips will last longer" or you could do hamsters patent redneck method using the 40w fixed iron that came with the real robots magazine from the 90's and the cheapest ass solder you can get on amazon, get some solder on the wire, blob of solder on the contact, then melt them 2 suckers together, just don't forget to put the heatshrink on first.... just a shame it's not a v3 box- external contacts.

there's gotta be a joke in here about expanding girth.....

wow, 1200 would buy you a LOT of shiny gat.

going by the first uk site on google to claim to have stock i'd say so: https://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/aps-uarb-urban-assault-rifle go to twg it's £125 (plus postage, spinning widdershins 3 times so it won't be blocked at the channel and sacrificing your firstborn to the tax man) even if it's got an asg infinity in there that's still steep.

amen brother

"never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by incompetence" cheap gun with a bit of tlc can be a right laugh, still have my wee jg ticking along rightly even if it looks a little worse for wear these days.

yes that's the one i meant, i'm gonna blame gate's naming schemes rather than my bad memory

so you're just after precocking then? what about something like a warfet, gives pretty decent precocking but doesn't risk the beep beep of doom if a blob of grease gets on the sensors.

protip: in airsoft boots and eyepro are the 2 things you absolutely should not cut corners with. it might sound insane, but i'd rather run around outdoors with £200 boots and a £100 gun than a £300 gun and a pair of trainers. other clothing you can get away with pretty much whatever you like bearing in mind you may end up wading through brambles. outdoors camo helps but honestly some drab greens/greys and someone who knows what they're at can still hide, camo pattern doesn't matter if you're behind them . if you're looking to get setup on a budget then surplus dpm or flecktarn is absolutely fine (indeed i'd argue that flecktarn is one of the better patterns for our woodlands). gloves and something covering the ears is a good idea. whilst i do recommend the warfet as a good bit of kit, the money might be better spent elsewhere for the time being. you could look at the nanoaab edit: nanoasr as mentioned below, which offers very basic functionality (protects the trigger contacts using lipo's) but will be a direct swap for a warfet if you wanna go down that route later.

what do you mean by reliable and smooth action? because it sounds like the problem might not be fixable by a mosfet unless you're getting over-run issues?

good luck with that. if you're anything like me you'll never shoot the same gun twice.....

Congrats, you've managed to miss the pitfall far to many people (myself included) fall into- not fucking with a good fun unless you have a backup

i know what you mean though, it's impossible to make the complete guide for everything because every part and every gun is subtly different, things change over different batches etc etc.

personally i prefer "the master has fucked up more times than the apprentice has even tried" i still think one of these days we just need to go through your post history and stitch together a proper "how to gearbox" guide yeah, you do have to stay on top of cleaning with the tighter bores, but then regular cleaning is still the best cost/performance ratio "upgrade" for any gun.

ahh yes, see the status update. so my spring theory was wrong. you win this time duck

kind of agree on shs's plastic, assuming it's the same as the bodies of their full rack pistons because that's what i'm normally looking at running. if the gun is put together right and not run too hard then either works, but plastic does offer a bit more insurance for the gears if you're worried about it being too fast. either way it's a pain in the ass to clean up when one goes

look i have the ability to self-jetlag under normal circumstances and lockdown aint helping

after looking at this thread without being sleep deprived i realised how has he photo'd the piston if he hasn't already taken it apart....

Going from your other thread you're running that thing on 11.1v In which case i reckon @Sitting Duck is spot on about the pme but i'm wondering if this is a weak spring as the culprit. ive seen a cyma eat a piston like that was fresh out the box, 11.1v but a half-assed "fps downgrade" by the shop with it spitting out 0.5j had the piston chewed up bad within 30 minutes (weak spring means it doesnt have to be spinning as fast for pme to be an issue so the stock motor on a hefty battery was fast enough) When you get the new piston in might be worth checking the fps. If you get very consistent (ie each shot doesnt change much in fps) but low readings then that might be your culprit. Dont know how confident you are with tinkering but there's a few tips and tricks for dissassembly/gearbox checks here: You dont need to go ham with trying to change things like aoe/shimming etc just yet, Just keep the shims in the positions they were originally. but at least that should let you know what to expect so you dont end up with a spring guide pinging its way into the aether the moment you pop it open. Of course this is assuming the gearbox is all stock and this isnt as simple as the previous owner dropping a spicy motor in there.

mans dont got space for that!

no spring labelling system can handle more than 3 springs. i used to use coloured cable ties but i ended up going "green, is green 1j, or sub 1j? is orange the right one? red is hot right?"

it is sitting nice and securely on the rail? can be an issue if the rail isn't square but given the elcan worked then the rail itself is probably close enough but maybe the scope. otherwise as above it could be the adjustments are placebo's, although for external adjustment scopes it's usually pretty easy to tell if the adjustment is actually doing anything. either that, or without wishing to state the obvious, have you tried it all the way in the other direction? i swear manufacturers use different standards for marking adjustment directions just to troll.

i have a feeling i know what happened to the one guy in the squad who preferred fudge bars.....

nice try but i see through your disguise