Skara

The 24mm CW thread on the Cyma AKSU is just a ring that threads onto the barrel's actual 14mm ccw thread.
Here's mine with different muzzle devices, all 14mm ccw
 
Although I see you have an LCT, in that case I don't think yours can accept 14mm ccw stuff natively...

Got a notification from tridos so bought a few things:
 
1x NaMech Flux trigger;
1x Mk23 TDC adjustment key (that threads into the LAM unit hole on the trigger guard);
2x AAP upper lock buttons in red;
1x AAP red mag release + stronger spring kit;
1x HPA threaded cap;
4x UV-5R protective kits for me and my mates.
 
Now I'm eyeing up the Source Commander 10L backpack, saw it last week at a tournament and I liked it a lot.

My last RIF for a while.... A Vintorez to replace the one I regretted selling a while ago! 
 
 

 

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

"nah mate, I'm good with guns, don't need more"
 
 
- a blatant liar, circa 2025

Don't pull the trigger lightly.

That's the normal mechanical trigger operation, experienced the same "issue" in our rental guns.
What I believe happens is that by pulling the trigger softly and slowly, the gun cycles but the cutoff lever cannot release the trigger trolley, effectively letting off more than one shot per pull, whereas a decise and firm trigger pull will make sure the COL engages the trigger trolley properly.

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/dsg-semi-auto-question.167805/page-2?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest
 
Read this again please, you even commented on it. Should also apply to the startup beeping.
 
 

G&G ETU moment.
 
Get rid of it, install a nice Perun Hybrid or Jefftron Scylla, profit. Throw in a Perun Speeder if that's your jam, or a Clicker if you want a less speedy boi trigger feel.
 
While you're at it, have the bushings, nozzle and piston replaced. Check air seal and replace piston head o-ring if necessary. Fuck off the stock G&G hop rubber and go for a maple leaf.

256x192 is something I would avoid.
Bare minimum should be 384x288, nowadays they can be obtained for not THAT much coin.
 
Drop the wifi, range finder and bullet drop bollocks, change the base magnification to 2x instead of 3.56x, have the thing use an ACOG mount instead of the weird ass rail most thermals come with, include a glass protector of some sort.
Even if the overall price rises to 1k, it's still going to be competitive.

two problems:
 
a) y'all should give up on the "grenade kills the whole room" or mercy/knife kills altogether.
b) whenever those rules are in play, there needs to be a ref/marshal INSIDE the room the pyro is thrown in, otherwise it's the wild west.

Oh yes, by all means use it as a starter and feel free to bash it around!
 
Unfortunately it's not a matter of IF, but a matter of WHEN it will break (just like everything in Airsoft tbf), so when it happens try and have some disposable cash available for something that can be upgraded down the road.
Remember to ask around for advice, even to people on the field.
This applies to guns and gear too!

The whole rifle.
 
It's polymer but it's super heavy, threads are inverted (as said above), the receiver is proprietary so you cannot fit aftermarket gearbox shells (and in no time you wish you had bought a different gun). Pistol grip fucks the motor angle. God forbid you want to install some "octarms" parts, wildly off spec even for Ares stuff..
 
Internals are abysmal, zero air seal to begin with, gearbox is proprietary and poorly made (very thin at the front, where it usually cracks), bushings are made of aluminium (yes, aluminium, they last very little), compression set is bad, especially the piston, it loves to crack at the rear, gears aren't good and due to how the etu controls the cycle (via a magnet) you have very limited options for upgrades, ETU is trash tier, proprietary to the gearbox and has the tendency to fry itself plus if you set battery protection to 11.1v it won't recognise 7.4v batteries anymore, nozzle and tappet plate are bad, plate will probably snap the fin within 2 months of use.
Hop rubber is paper thin, doesn't lift anything past a 0.2 and it will most likely rip apart within 3 mags.
 
Sauce: i had two Ares M4s.
 
Edit: I'm sorry, but it had to be done, probably if you asked before buying we could have warned you.

At the cost of sounding like a dickhead..
 
Who recommended you that piece of junk?
 
Btw, the thread is 14mm CLOCKWISE, because Ares, so 99.99% of airsoft muzzle devices will NOT fit.

At the cost of sounding like a dickhead..
 
Who recommended you that piece of junk?
 
Btw, the thread is 14mm CLOCKWISE, because Ares, so 99.99% of airsoft muzzle devices will NOT fit.

At the cost of sounding like a dickhead..
 
Who recommended you that piece of junk?
 
Btw, the thread is 14mm CLOCKWISE, because Ares, so 99.99% of airsoft muzzle devices will NOT fit.

Another cause is how high/low the magazine sits relative to the hop unit and it's a combination of lower receiver, magazine retention latch and hop unit itself.
 
In fact good hop units have adjustable feed tubes to compensate for this.
 
In any case EPM1 mags seem to give more issues than benefits

Are you all tarded?  Only one drink has what airsofters crave.