Skara

G&G mosfets are shit and should never be trusted. Ditch the whole thing and go for a Perun V2 Hybrid, installation is stupid easy and costs pretty much a couple beers more than a complete G&G SHIT-TU. The Perun ETU Upgrade Kit/ETU++ are good options too but then the weak link becomes the G&G trigger board, which is rather flimsy because the micro switches it uses (three, one for the trigger, one for the selector and one for the COL) are also the cheapest, flimsiest (yes i know), lowest quality pieces of junk G&G can find. Oh and G&G mosfets generally don't work with 7.4s because some utter mong thought it was a good idea to set the battery protection to 11.1 only if it wasn't clear enough I hate G&G with every inch of my soul

Yesterday we had the first game post summer break and it sucked. Or at least I sucked. Wasn't motivated at all and kept playing like crap, zero situational awareness and generally crap aim (if aiming in airsoft means anything at all). Won't be playing for a month now (close friend's wedding on Saturday and then I'm on vacation), hopefully when I get back I'll be a wee bit more relaxed so I can focus on having fun rather than real life bollocks

You can mod it, of course, but I don't think it's worth the hassle, there are more suitable rigs out there (starting with the competition multigun rig) for 7.62 mags.

I'm using an AW one, it's working fairly well and it's €10 cheaper than them WEs. I'll buy a couple more whenever I have some spare cash

Maybe the newer ones have wider side pouches, mine is from the first batch ever made and it's pretty tight for anything that's not an M4 mag.

It only takes 5.56 mags, or 5.45 ak ones if you flip them bullets (bbs really) up. I would go for a haley rig if I were you, it's more versatile than the TMR (or the multigun rig) as it takes 4 mags instead of 2/3. And you can still use it with 5.56 mags due to the mp2 inserts. wut? They look like steyr 5.56 mags

Then the OG manufacturer is Eagle with their Operator's Belt.

The drum mag is inviting, but the weight is definitely not I still need to pull the plug on two more AW extendos but I don't use the smg enough to justify them.

I was supposed to play tonight, but thank God we didn't have enough people Anyway, we managed to play two night games, last Friday and Wednesday, pretty challenging as seeing stuff is impossible and using a torch is a death sentence. night games in the woods are 99% reliant on noise, so gameplay was a bit stagnant, but fun nonetheless. Note to self: mk23 as a primary next time and LAM upgrades.

I kinda want to replace the whole set with cowcow parts but they're overly expensive to import. I might eventually just replace the hammer. Thing is, the AA hammer is just as expensive -.-

Will he make me a speedsoft HPA TM recoil?

You could also try spur first, you know, there's not only ONE way to do things

Yes they can, if they are tuned right.

I almost got my (old) radio nicked a couple of years ago. Had it in its pouch, unbuckled, so at one point it fell out on the main path. After the game, a teammate found it and asked who the owner was, this woman from another club claimed it was hers (legit Karen levels of yelling), luckily though it had "17" written on it, which was done by the previous owner and I got it back. Quite hilarious as this woman was very upset and kept arguing it was hers, but nobody saw her with a radio that day. Some people are just disgusting.

They're colloquially called "Shooter's Belts" All based on either the Eagle or Ronin belts. In the UK you have two top notch manufacturers, FRV and TacBelts. You could go with Emerson/FMA clones, but from what I've seen over here, they're just as expensive as FRVs but with the obvious lack of quality.

'nother update: This is the current state of my AAPs. You can see the TTI triggers on both, TTI selector on the DMR and standard AA charging handle on the pistol. Detail of the pistol (the sticker is from the latest tournament to indicate it chronoed at sub 1J) Closer look at the DMR (the missing screw on the grip stripped itself to all fuck on installation) Detail of the TTI selector

Pretty solid, I expected it to flex a lot but surprisingly it doesn't. TTI triggers and selectors are solid as well, the finish is nice although the red ones have a slightly different shade than AA's red accessories. The selector was supposed to be stiff, it is definitely positive but not hard at all to operate. If you buy the TTI selector it comes with a short stroke buffer and stiffer nozzle spring, so you only "need" the main recoil recoil one.

Stock barrel is perfectly fine. You don't want to risk running a hot gun

As expected, installation was piss easy. The grub screws are caked in threadlock though, so they require a little bit of force. The only "hard" part was to screw the smaller grub screw into the knob, it needs to reach the spindly thing's centre and you need to put pressure on the knob itself to prevent the spring and ball from yeeting themselves. P.s. it works with the Hadron kits, can't wait to take it out for the next game on Friday.

Genuine ones go for around the €120 mark, if you can find them. I was referring to clones, they're crazy expensive here

These things go for exorbitant amounts of money here lmao. We're talking €50+

Is it an indoor or outdoor gun? Because if it's an indoor gun the stock rubber will do, if it's for woodland games then you may want to get some nice range, in that case I'd recommed any of the ML rubbers (found decepticons to work particularly well), in 60° hardness. Don't forget a ML I-Key or a Hadron H-Plate to get the best results.

Just got my TTI selector (along with a stock and another tti selector for my teammate), installation seems pretty straightforward: remove the stock switch, plop the new switch and linkage in (linkage goes first), screw all the screws, done. Drop the provided 4mm short stroke buffer and nozzle return spring if using the AA stock. Will do that tonight as soon as I get home, will test with the current Hadron SS kit

If you're getting a drum, buy the manual g&g one. 1500 rounds, no battery or electronic board to faff about, feeds every single round. *Actually* Reading your question, the g&g drum has a bit of a slant to it, you might not have enough clearance with the grip (unfortunately I don't have a mp5k to check if it clears)