Rogerborg

This again. Spud guns are likely "lethal barrelled firearms" for UK legal purposes. You'd be in more danger from one of them, or receiving serve on a tennis court than from this. Except. Anything that could knock off or displace eyepro can get sodded off, as far as I'm concerned. I include tag rounds in that, we've seen how they can mess folk up.

This'un: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/silverback-aps-spring-13mm-100-newtonsrs-tac-41.html I was actually going to go for the Rapax blue 2J+ spring, but of course they sold out while I dithered: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/rapax-aps2-style-spring-2-joule-srs-ssg-vsr.html Other alternatives would be the M140: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/m140-aps2-type-13mm-spring-for-srs-pull-version-co.html or M160: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/m160-aps2-type-13mm-spring-for-srs-pull-version.html Notionally an "M150" would be spot on, but they don't have that. I also bought the Rapax spring tensioners, now of course... out of stock: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/rapax-srs-ssg-vsr-steel-spring-tensioners.html The 100 Newton spring with 0.43g and the hop set to 5 was coming in a bit spicy, so I lopped 2 coils off one end, then (because I'm a halfwit) 2 coils off the other end. This got it down to about 2.27J in the garage. On site, I had to crank the hop to 8 for 0.43g, which dropped the energy to about 2J. The largest tensioner from the Rapax kit brought it right back up to 2.27J again at lunch. I reckon I might have been OK with the 100 Newton spring uncut, but I wanted to be sure to come in under chrono rather than over.

On a $12K production? I suspect that means his mum says it's all right.

Pretty darn good day at Area-66 on Saturday despite the usual paucity of marshals. The site was packed, but it was all good natured and generally fair. Nice weather, decent briefs - using a whiteboard, even - and well thought out games. A couple of rental hoodies playing in God Mode, and the usual DMR flexible interpretations of "one in the air", but otherwise great stuff. It was particular nice to see some bush wookies acknowledge hits at extreme range when the BBs must have been just about dropping on them: that always deserves a thumbs up and a thanks.

Per my first-day review, I honestly don't think the TAC-41 needs anything other than a M150 / Silverback 100N / Rapax 2J+ spring, and to be fed 0.4g+ BBs. Beyond that it seems to be a case more of visual, aural and tactile aesthetics, or lifting 0.48g with less hop pressure. I bought two extra mags but given their generous 48 round capacity, I never got past the 2nd. You could probably have a good day with nothing more than what's in the box (in a garage test I saw 1.8J with 0.43g and a hop settings of 5), plus a speedloader.

The theatrical fantasy. The actual realit- wait, what?

Is there a Discover Channel How It's Made showing how to rip you off? Thanks for the PM, I didn't want to take up your time given that it's just keeping you from making more products.

A lot of airsoft is trust and honour based, and some sites care more than others. Some sites require (or say they require) you to have a MOSFET fitted that limits the rate of fire to every (e.g.) 2 seconds, but on the other hand, I've seen Marshal's Mates be nodded through with hot guns on a "keep it on semi" promise, which rather makes a mockery of chronoing at all. DMR players regularly take the piss with rates of fire: it's easy to get carried away when a target presents itself. One of my local sites has just sacked them off completely due to it being such an abusable type of gun. If you do go that way, it's easy to lock most V2 or V3 guns to semi just by filing off a small piece of the selector plate. I can't access my attachments at the moment to find how-to images, but shout out if you get that far and we can show you how.

I hear Traci Lords works for tips these days. Indeed. It's not unreasonable to ask here, but I'm pretty sure we don't know. Theatrical forums will have more practical experience. Heck, you'd be better asking the Airsoft Heretics group on Facebook, they like to do spicy things to airsoft toys.

Have the Ackchyually mob decided what's most technically correct yet? I see it can take 7.62mm as well with just a barrel change. Almost like... a modernised M14. Meanwhile, the Troy Industries CAR-14 never made it beyond Shot Show because nobody wants a heavy gun with a folding stock, 13" barrel, and 20 round clipazines with >5.56mm calibre rounds.

Why can't I shake the suspicion that there's really only one actual OEM for all airsoft toys? I mean, it's literally one eight year old kid working 27 hours a day shackled to an assembly line, and everybody else just rebrands from there.

I have a hankering to tinker with some mesh based eyepro projects and I know @herosharkis always busy, so I was wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the perforated mesh used in his fine eyewear. No, I'm not looking to go into competition, just try out some ideas myself. I've previously used square woven wire mesh which works well enough, but perforated sheet seems like what the cool kids are using. It's sold by pitch (distance between the start of one hole and the start of the next, easier measured over several holes then divided), hole size (edge to edge inside each hole, whether hexagonal or round), and the thickness of the sheet between the inside and outside. Not to scale, illustrative purposes only:

One skin, two skin, three skin...

There's nothing like that that I'm aware of. What you can get for 14mm CCW AEGs is a "spitfire" tracer which lights up (rather than igniting) the gas. It looks neat on GBBRs, not so much on pistols. Shotguns would need a specific system.

Me: Mum, can we get Thunder Maul? Mum: We have Thunder Maul at home. The Thunder Maul at home.

With the caveat that it'll need a spring to get it up from about 1.8J to your site limit, my tl;dr answer is: This is based on 1 day's play, versus a Well MB-03 with some upgrades that I've been messing around with on and off. Pros: A numbered and indexed clicky TDC hop. All airsoft snipers should come with this. Once you dial it in for a BB weight, take a note of the setting and you can just reset it to there again. I should note that I'm bang on 8 out of 10 for 0.43g, so it should be fine for 0.45g but I can't speak to 0.48g+ "plastic". A short, smooth bolt pull. It feels lighter than it actually is (17-25kg for a 100 Newton spring), but it's a pleasure to pull. I didn't experience any struggling or fatigue all day, even while prone. A decent adjustable and crisp 90 degree trigger. A quick and simple bolt removal / spring change system, with all the tools needed stored in the gun. The bolt comes unfitted, and the box urges you to Read The Fine Manual to figure it out. It's well illustrated and very nearly written in English. Once you've done it, you'll be ranting "Why aren't all snipers like this?" Great consistency. I deliberately didn't even clean the barrel, just tweaked the hop and spring to get 2.3J with properly hopped 0.43g, and played. Once I had my scope adjusted, I was consistently hitting head sized targets (OK, heads) at 50m (airsoft estimate) and airsofter sized targets at beyond AEG range. The limiting factor was wind, and my ability to hold it steady. The bolt is ambidextrous and can be switched to lefty for Satanic sorts. It's got nice indexing on the rotation, being positively up or down, and not wanting to muddle around in the middle. The parts that matter all seem to be steel. Meh and missing: The body is a reasonable polymer, but not superb, and it's neither heavy, nor light. The barrel is floating. This may be significant for bang-guns, but it's largely pointless for airsoft, and the slight flex feels a little peculiar. It doesn't effect consistency, but neither does it isolate the handguard - resting it on an oil drum resulted in a lot of resonance. I'll probably just shim it. The lack of a cocked indicator is a little disappointing. You can just about tell from the trigger. There's apparently a double feed prevention system, but I managed to get one (1) double-feed today. There are no sling mounts as stock. You'll need to buy some QD sling mounts - there are QD holes front and rear on both sides. There's a decent long RIS rail on top, but the front and sides are m-lok, so you'll need a rail section even to add a bipod. As a Scotch, this irks me a little. The magazine well is just in front of the trigger, but feeds to the hop unit via a "feed ramp" with 20 BBs in it. This needs "primed" by inserting a mag to fill the ramp, then removing the magazine and refilling it. A little annoying, and it means the gun is never really "unloaded" unless you empty the ramp (and spill 20 BBs). In practice, you'll likely just keep it filled and it won't be an issue. Cons: The magazines are a decent capacity, holding 48 BBs each. They just fit in a pistol pouch, with a little wiggling. However, they're tricky to fill, needing to push the feed down very slightly while loading the BBs. That's also how you unload it, and it's an overly sensitive mechanism: I emptied a few mags while trying to wiggle them into pouches. The mags have to go in straight, not front-then-back as they want to do. This is explained in the Fine Manual, but you're fighting against the gun slightly. The cocking handle wants to unscrew itself from the bolt. I've seen another reviewer mention this. I've screwed it in securely, and will threadlock it. It's curious given how well everything else seems to be put together. And that's it. I can't find anything else wrong with it. Once the mags are in, it's a joy to use. As seen elsewhere here, this is what I'd hoped airsoft sniping would be like. The number of times I LOLed out loud today as I face-shot folk sticking their head out of cover would do a "OMG CHEETAR PUNISHED" YouTube channel proud. Keep all this in context, it's an airsoft toy, not precision engineering. Aftermarket parts are available, and might make it marginally more consistent or quieter. However, in a world that contains wind, rain, grass, leaves and Plastic Magnetos, I reckon it really is actually good enough for me with just a spring change.

Well, you lasted longer than I did. Buying a pistol while you're renting an AEG is pretty sensible (in airsoft terms). You'll spend far more than that on far less if you stick with airsoft, it'll work fine, and you've got something a bit different from the default Big Black Glock. I'd call that a win. Aside, the first time I played, I was a bit nervous that it would all be serious geardos and Walts playing, but there was one mad lad in a pretty decent Deadpool costume which reassured me that airsoft really is just a fun game for overgrown kids.

Memes are back on the menu, boys. Eh. 20,000 rifles, they're just putting the tip in at the moment. That Vortex optic though, I can't wait for the "need dat 4 airsoft!!!!!".

Nobody called you a scammer. Please feel free to check. I'd go with "geezer" or "chancer". "Puckish rogue", perhaps. Either way, I won't be seeing any further seethe and cope from you.

Ahoy and welcome. Challenge accepted.

Good for them. Of course, if you want to know what a gun is actually producing in game, where it matters, there's only one way to do that.

Foetal alcohol syndrome? Since you're still pretending that your interest is theatrical, I'll pretend to believe you and point you at some Facebook groups which are relevant to your claimed purpose. Student Film Maker and Actors Network UK UK Film Makers

Yup, @sjhirst's image above appears to be a true truth, see https://www.postoffice.co.uk/mail/what-can-i-send - it does warn about delays while they grasp your Glock, but should get through eventually. That's great news, it looks like we have a viable option to PF48. PF48 caps (or capped) compensation for shooty things to £100. To be honest, on the few occasions I've posted (cheap) RIFs I've just sent them by whatever courier was cheapest, marked as sporting goods, on the basis that I doubt Hermes (or "Evri" as they've rebranded) really gives a stuff what they're carrying as long as it's not dripping or ticking.

That, really. I have the typical airsofter B6 V1 and it doesn't even do internal resistance guesstimations. I'd trust your own calculation more. I mean, assuming that is a 1Ω resistor.

To be a bit more helpful (teeth firmly gritted), the quality of answer you get is determined by the information in the question. The more you can tell us about the actual make and model of what you're interested in, the better. Also, what you expect to be using them for, e.g. woodland, CQB, impression kit, sticking up a bank.