Rogerborg

Knowing what we know about Specna Arms QC, why not look elsewhere rather than rewarding them and taking a gamble? That budget gets you into tin-can bodied CYMAs. No Gate ASTER, but no Orion gearbox either.

Ahoy and welcome. Have you airsofted before? Do you have any particular requirements or desires about a platform? Since you didn't say, I'd assume the default M4 and that you're OK with plastic polymer bodies. In that budget, I'd say: CYMA for internal robustness but meh externals. Whatever you like the look of, they're all much the same internally. G&G CM-16 for much the same reasons. Double Eagle M90X range (and nothing else Double Eagle) for a surprising amount of features at the same price. The sad fact is that there's no 100% guarantee on airsoft guns. They're really expensive toys, and the moment you open the box, they're considered used-and-abused by 2nd owners and the retailer alike. Even the biggest UK retailers will cheerfully flog on returns as "new" guns. However, if you're OK with having pieces of hard plastic shot at your face while wearing a few £££ of eye protection, I hope you're not completely risk averse.

Nice, remember to get it up to about 1.4J, point-blank folk in the teeth with 0.45g, then say "Stop whining, cheater, it's only a pistol."

"I got a real bargain on that RIF, it was too good to pass up." [Goes into the back of a cupboard, never gets used]

You were... pushing rope? 🤔 This is actually the only bit of airsoft "training" that I'm minded to work on. I'm still at the stage of instinctively closing my left eye then wondering why I can't see through the sights. Race ya!

I bought two! One is still working! It's a miracle! The other works when it feels like it, much like a civil servant. They're OK. You don't really get much of a gas cloud with a GBB pistol, but the LEDs are pretty bright, both for lighting the BBs, and for the "flash" effect. I've spent more on worse.

Hi. You don't need to do anything other than a bigger spring and lock it to semi somehow. Bear in mind that stock CYMAs shoot over 1.5J / 400fps, and that's pretty standard for Murcan fields, so this isn't extreme by any means. What I would do is: Radius the gearbox if it's not done already. YouTube can provide videos. Get the shimming and air-seal as good as you can. Maybe think about an o-ring nozzle, a double-o-ring cylinder head, and replace and/or stretch the stock piston o-ring, add more ports to the cylinder head, and get it all silicone greased up. A full cylinder will give you more air volume to play with if you're going for a longer barrel - I splashed on one. Locking to semi is down to your local fields. Some might be OK with a screw, some will want it selector locked, some might even want a mosfet with a 2-second delay (although you can of course disable that as soon as you've chronoed). The way I went with was to remove a piece of the selector plate - I bought a spare, to keep the original aside and intact. This bit here. You only have to remove enough so that when you slide it to full auto, it doesn't push the cut-off lever. Just get the gearbox out, slide the selector between semi and full a few times and watch how it interacts with the cut-off lever, and it'll be obvious what you need to remove. Then barrel, hop rubber and nub. I just run a Maple Leaf, no need for flat or R-hopping at 1.5J. The second last thing I'd do is the spring, after everything else is as good as you can get it, because all of that will give you a better gun anyway, and you'll want the air seal optimised and the piston and barrel volume fixed. The last thing I'd do is the motor, and only if it's struggling to pull the spring. One problem with semi-auto locking is that you might get a lock up, which a meatier motor can help to avoid. Again though, 1.5J isn't that big an ask. You'll get a faster response, but with the time of flight a few more milliseconds isn't as critical as in CQB. No need to go crazy with any of this stuff, you're going to be limited by all the usual real world factors, so just getting near 1.5J with heavier BBs and decency consistency is where you want to be.

Yup. Did I say "Hand carved? Looks more like he used his foot, and a spoon."? If not, dibs on that now.

No need to apologise for being right. Fantasists gotta fantasise. One specific issue is that the sort of people who will provide medical and fire cover without production liability insurance to cover them when things go Baldwin are exactly the sort of people that you wouldn't want to be relying on. It's amazing how many people with huge ideas would rather hang around in forums arguing about them than actually getting on with implementing them. Remember that stable genius here who was poised to file patents on an team tracker device that it turns out had already been invented at least twice before? That all went a bit quiet, didn't it?

This again. Spud guns are likely "lethal barrelled firearms" for UK legal purposes. You'd be in more danger from one of them, or receiving serve on a tennis court than from this. Except. Anything that could knock off or displace eyepro can get sodded off, as far as I'm concerned. I include tag rounds in that, we've seen how they can mess folk up.

This'un: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/silverback-aps-spring-13mm-100-newtonsrs-tac-41.html I was actually going to go for the Rapax blue 2J+ spring, but of course they sold out while I dithered: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/rapax-aps2-style-spring-2-joule-srs-ssg-vsr.html Other alternatives would be the M140: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/m140-aps2-type-13mm-spring-for-srs-pull-version-co.html or M160: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/m160-aps2-type-13mm-spring-for-srs-pull-version.html Notionally an "M150" would be spot on, but they don't have that. I also bought the Rapax spring tensioners, now of course... out of stock: https://www.skirmshop.co.uk/rapax-srs-ssg-vsr-steel-spring-tensioners.html The 100 Newton spring with 0.43g and the hop set to 5 was coming in a bit spicy, so I lopped 2 coils off one end, then (because I'm a halfwit) 2 coils off the other end. This got it down to about 2.27J in the garage. On site, I had to crank the hop to 8 for 0.43g, which dropped the energy to about 2J. The largest tensioner from the Rapax kit brought it right back up to 2.27J again at lunch. I reckon I might have been OK with the 100 Newton spring uncut, but I wanted to be sure to come in under chrono rather than over.

On a $12K production? I suspect that means his mum says it's all right.

Pretty darn good day at Area-66 on Saturday despite the usual paucity of marshals. The site was packed, but it was all good natured and generally fair. Nice weather, decent briefs - using a whiteboard, even - and well thought out games. A couple of rental hoodies playing in God Mode, and the usual DMR flexible interpretations of "one in the air", but otherwise great stuff. It was particular nice to see some bush wookies acknowledge hits at extreme range when the BBs must have been just about dropping on them: that always deserves a thumbs up and a thanks.

Per my first-day review, I honestly don't think the TAC-41 needs anything other than a M150 / Silverback 100N / Rapax 2J+ spring, and to be fed 0.4g+ BBs. Beyond that it seems to be a case more of visual, aural and tactile aesthetics, or lifting 0.48g with less hop pressure. I bought two extra mags but given their generous 48 round capacity, I never got past the 2nd. You could probably have a good day with nothing more than what's in the box (in a garage test I saw 1.8J with 0.43g and a hop settings of 5), plus a speedloader.

The theatrical fantasy. The actual realit- wait, what?

Is there a Discover Channel How It's Made showing how to rip you off? Thanks for the PM, I didn't want to take up your time given that it's just keeping you from making more products.

A lot of airsoft is trust and honour based, and some sites care more than others. Some sites require (or say they require) you to have a MOSFET fitted that limits the rate of fire to every (e.g.) 2 seconds, but on the other hand, I've seen Marshal's Mates be nodded through with hot guns on a "keep it on semi" promise, which rather makes a mockery of chronoing at all. DMR players regularly take the piss with rates of fire: it's easy to get carried away when a target presents itself. One of my local sites has just sacked them off completely due to it being such an abusable type of gun. If you do go that way, it's easy to lock most V2 or V3 guns to semi just by filing off a small piece of the selector plate. I can't access my attachments at the moment to find how-to images, but shout out if you get that far and we can show you how.

I hear Traci Lords works for tips these days. Indeed. It's not unreasonable to ask here, but I'm pretty sure we don't know. Theatrical forums will have more practical experience. Heck, you'd be better asking the Airsoft Heretics group on Facebook, they like to do spicy things to airsoft toys.

Have the Ackchyually mob decided what's most technically correct yet? I see it can take 7.62mm as well with just a barrel change. Almost like... a modernised M14. Meanwhile, the Troy Industries CAR-14 never made it beyond Shot Show because nobody wants a heavy gun with a folding stock, 13" barrel, and 20 round clipazines with >5.56mm calibre rounds.

Why can't I shake the suspicion that there's really only one actual OEM for all airsoft toys? I mean, it's literally one eight year old kid working 27 hours a day shackled to an assembly line, and everybody else just rebrands from there.

I have a hankering to tinker with some mesh based eyepro projects and I know @herosharkis always busy, so I was wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the perforated mesh used in his fine eyewear. No, I'm not looking to go into competition, just try out some ideas myself. I've previously used square woven wire mesh which works well enough, but perforated sheet seems like what the cool kids are using. It's sold by pitch (distance between the start of one hole and the start of the next, easier measured over several holes then divided), hole size (edge to edge inside each hole, whether hexagonal or round), and the thickness of the sheet between the inside and outside. Not to scale, illustrative purposes only:

One skin, two skin, three skin...

There's nothing like that that I'm aware of. What you can get for 14mm CCW AEGs is a "spitfire" tracer which lights up (rather than igniting) the gas. It looks neat on GBBRs, not so much on pistols. Shotguns would need a specific system.

Me: Mum, can we get Thunder Maul? Mum: We have Thunder Maul at home. The Thunder Maul at home.