Rogerborg

They're yellow-snow flavoured. Nimh works, and is less explodey than lithium. It's just old technology with a high self-discharge rate and lower power delivery.

Ahoy and welcome. Yes, it's a blast. Don't eat the BBs, even the tasty looking yellow 0.12g. Nothing wrong with any of those choices, and CYMAs are fine. They used to be regarded as cheap tat until folk realised that they're cheap because they make so many of them, not because they don't know what they're doing. You can pay a lot more for worse internals. How are you doing for batteries? The CYMA comes with a nimh, but I wouldn't invest any more money in that technology, either in batteries or chargers. Lithium based is the way to go now, either lipo, or li-ion, and we like the SkyRC S65 chargers.

True to the above, although I'd note that if the goal of "durability and reliability" is to reduce costs, that there's little point in replacing a part that isn't already worn or broken. The very cheapest mosfets cost more than multiple sets of trigger contacts. Unless you're running 11.1V (and even if you are) you're likely to relegate a starter AEG to a backup role before you burn out the contacts. And CYMA put plastic racked pistons into toys putting out 1.5J as stock. They won't strip straight away on stock gears and motors. So there's no need to really do anything other than sort the factory shimming and snot-grease lube. And even then, I've yet to buy an AEG with bad shimming, even the cheapest CYMA or Galaxy. Those Chinese child labourers know their business (if they want to eat).

And expecting you to use some sort of retailer sorcery to tell him what muzzle energy he'd be seeing?

Do the CORE models have the Orion gearbox? If so, they're a poor choice for a DMR build, as they're notoriously prone to cracking. Well, I say that, but I'm using an Edge with an Orion as a 1.8J+ DMR and it hasn't let go yet. An M115 spring is notionally going to get you 377fps / 1.32J, so congratulations, you've just built a Section 5 prohibited firearm, go directly to jail. Really though, that's likely to be way too hot for any UK sites. Why on earth you'd put an M115 in it without a chrono boggles the mind. Do you know what it was shooting at with the M90? Either way, I'd get that back in there before you play next. I echo all of the above. Or if you want to chisel a few £££ and aren't in a particular hurry, the Big Dragon M140 motors (or "mortors") from AliExpress can come in a bit cheaper and are pretty meaty. Yup. I'd take careful note of what's already in there as well, I'm pretty sure that my Edge came with an unannounced flat hop bucking and nub rather than the more usual mounded bucking and cylinder nub. Those work together as a pair and are unlikely to pay well with individual alternatives. The CORE may not have a flat hop though, and you're unlikely to go far wrong with a Maple Leaf bucking and nub combination.

Rules that out, I already have a cheap and randomly uPgR4d3d Well MB-03 with a horrible bolt pull, and am looking for something as smooth as Mila Kunis' cheeks.

A celebrity rubber chicken.

May not be entirely serious - AFUKers who spray together stay together. At this point I'll uprate any post that escalates us to the point where someone gets threatened in real life, in Minecraft.

They may have been mouthing things that they didn't type though. Personally, I try not to piss off sellers, since I'm essentially relying on your goodwill to post the thing off at all. I am genuinely curious as to why you don't list the PayPal G&S price, since in most cases you're then going to ask for that anyway, right? Is it because you reckon you get more interest by listing at £30 rather than £31.20? But how does that gel with flexing about having more buyers lined up than you can cope with? Wouldn't it be better to put off filthy poors who are going to baulk at the real price, and not waste your valuable time in dealing with their grunting and grumbling? 🤔

Do you check the cell resistances? I ask because one of the very few really interesting things that I've seen on Facebook was a chap comparing airsoft batteries to RC batteries. He found that the airsoft cells were trash, fresh out of the box, with far higher internal resistance than the RC cells. The speculation is that decent cells go into RC branded packs, and the near-rejects into airsoft packs. My older B6 doesn't do cell resistances so I can neither confirm nor deny it with my personal collection. I do agree though that for the cost of airsoft batteries compared to just about everything else in the hobby, and how hard and often we really use them compared to our RC chums, longevity isn't such a big issue. I've only had one battery actually fail, and already have more spares than I need, as I can use smaller form factor batteries in larger capacity guns if necessary.

True that, I've had to file down mags as often as shim them up. And while shimming the back of mags seems popular, my Specna wants them moved backwards, nor forwards. You have to do what you have to do.

Well, costed in. And it is something that I'll always choose to pay for as buyer, because it does give me protection, versus F&F or a bank transfer with no comeback. This is unlike postage, which is the seller's concern, not mine. I'm absolutely fine with sellers doing the calculation of: money they want in their pocket + postage fees for their chosen method of sending + PayPal G&S fees. Just do it up front and list that as your asking price. Don't get an offer then start considering postage costs, or sucking your teeth and saying "Ooh, you want to use PayPal, and you don't want to just give me the money without any chance of getting it back? Wow, such unusual, very unexpect, I'll need to work out the fees for that." That's me, anyway. It may be the case that most buyers are happy paying F&F / bank transfer. I'd be fascinated to know, ideally from a prolific seller who doesn't have a clown in this fight.

For one thing, the STANAG "standard" has never actually been formalised. From measuring, airsoft toy versions vary by a mm or so in dimensions, and particularly in the position of the feed. It doesn't sound like much, but can be startling to line up a bunch side by side and see the differences. It's amazing that so many "M4" mags actually fit and feed in so many "M4"s.

Ooh, shall we compare ready cash in current accounts, versus the purchase cost that we'll argue over? This could be a fun derail.

I'd note that it adds no extra time, since you have to do the calculation anyway. Same for postage, it tickles my tappet when sellers say "plus postage" without having figured out what it will cost to send it in the way that they want, given that it's their risk. If I demanded that a seller only pay 99p for Del Boy's Pizzas and Shooters Delivery Service who offer zero compensation (to them), I'd be told to do one, right? tl;dr version: decide how much you want in your pocket. Find out how much it's going to cost to post it the way you want to send it and add that. Add PayPal fees. You'll have to do all this anyway at some point, so why on earth not just do it up front, and list that as the price? Yes, there are issues like Highland and Islands rates, or matey mates who will be daft happy enough to pay F&F, mate (until they get scammed that way), but I'd cost to the rule rather than the exception.

Kind of the point. Optimise it until it breaks, back it off a quarter-turn, then leave it for the apprentice to find sell it on as "Mint condition, barely used, worked perfectly until it didn't'".

Geezers will nick anything.

Out of interest, what proportion of buyers do you find want to take the risk of using something other than non-F&F PayPal? I'd assume that's the default now and price it in, for a couple of reasons. 1) If they want to pay that way then it avoids this disappointment. 2) If they want to gamble on something else, it's extra money in your pocket. So, really, why wouldn't you?

That was my first thought, but it's not quite either an S60 or S65, and is notably missing some vents. Good shout on it being a marked up Overlander. I assume that's a SkyRC clone to begin with.

The entire hobby?

It's lazy and irksome when sellers spring PayPal fees on you, although hardly uncommon. It's also against PayPal's T&Cs for business sellers, which it rather seems that he might be. And I agree with asking for an invoice. It doesn't seem like this chap is dodgy, but then the best scammers never seem that way. Personally I'd like it if AFUK required sellers to list an all inclusive price including postage and PayPal fees, given that's how the majority of transactions are going to happen. And it wouldn't be rocket surgery to provide a fees calculator, at 2.9% + 30p for Sterling-to-Sterling. Disappointingly small spat though, I don't see anyone being offered out behind the circus tent.

tl;dr It's fine. No offence is being committed by anyone. I would highlight that the issue (for all of us) is public possession, Firearms Act 1968 Section 19, and that applies to any replica, realistic or otherwise. There have been convictions for that, notably one for a small bright orange springer pistol, so please use it responsibly. Private land (and not shooting off that land), and being on the way to or from an insured airsoft site (not going for a romp in the woods with your mates).

Looks like another case of someone adding up everything they've spent, and thinking that's what it's worth. With stock levels being what they are, it's remotely possible that they might find a buyer who agrees, mind.

If I'd bought an example of the most leaky and fragile type of airsoft gun, with the worst parts support and repairability, that had been custom modified to add more unknowns, I'd be delighted if it shot one BB, once. This is like selling someone a kit-car and them expecting a Honda warranty.

Then you'll have to deal with the situation as it is, rather than as it should be. /thread, really. It sound like you've bent over backwards to do the right thing. It's a shame for the buyer that airsoft toys are fundamentally fragile, but he chose to take a gamble on a used example. That's on him, not you.