Cameron364

The 'What have you just bought' Thread

7751 posts in this topic

That's how I felt Craig.

 

It's a great rifle waiting to happen, it's just that the version 2 gearbox is so horrible to work with that I'd actually rather pay for someone else to do it than me do it myself... Except I couldn't be arsed to do that either, hence why I offered it up for sale.

 

The bloody motor connectors were doing my head in, really ended up buggering up the soldering, the soldering iron I've got is about as good as an old man with a dab-on blowing on the bloody solder...

 

The selector/cycling/feeding issues can be sorted by fiddling around with the selector plate a bit, the firing issues are just a case of fiddling with the gears a bit.

 

So, gears, selector plate, motor connection and job's a good 'un. Nothing ought to need replacing, just a bit of a readjustment, bit of new wire and that's it. Shouldn't cost anything major, just standard service costs and the labour charge. If it comes to more than that then they're just trying to milk you like a money cow.

 

You might want to cut the spring down slightly as well, it's got a brand new M120 in it at the moment and I never got chance to chrono it, but I'd guess it's pushing 370 if not higher.

 

Good luck with it anyway, I'd been planning on turning it into a USMC FN M16A4, complete with licensed FN receiver with "Burst" on the selector and everything.

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i dont mind working with version 2s,the trigger annoys me a bit but apart from that its okay,i wish airsoft companys would put ring connectors like g&p rifles so they dont come off easy.

 

just bought

 

we glock 17

glock 17 spare mag

green gas

1911 fill valve

my nae ticket paid in full

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The trigger in my G&P's so difficult to get to sit properly. They spring that returns it after shooting is so strong that when you try to put the gearbox together, as soon as you hand leaves the trigger, it jumps out its place.

 

Love the connectors on G&P motors, simple rings with a screw. Stay on so much better than those other types :P

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Great, taking my mate's apart later today, keeps mis-feeding, on all mags. I think it may be the tappet plate or the nozzle, anyone know?

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Liam, if you want to make the trigger spring less... Springy... Then instead of poking the spring through the hole cut in the trigger, just hook it around the back of the trigger. Works just the same but gives it less springiness.

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could be tappet plate spring or nozzle not seated correctly

 

Yeah that's what I was thinking, will find out later :P. Could it be related to the hop? I've read that causing double feeds but not misfeeds.

 

 

 

Liam, if you want to make the trigger spring less... Springy... Then instead of poking the spring through the hole cut in the trigger, just hook it around the back of the trigger. Works just the same but gives it less springiness.

 

That's an idea.. Although it is good fun forcing things together :P.

 

Also, how easy/hard is the ASCU to install? I plan on buying one this week or next, along with all my M4 parts as I'm getting money back from my laptop.

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it may be mags not in correctly,it could be the whole hop because when i had my g&g for the first time the ir was a dimple in the feed tube from the mag of the inside of the hop and it was letting the odd bb through

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A full set of A-TACS FG BDUs may have turned up on my doorstep today :/

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its Sunday i shouldn't have to read that much :huh:

 

Yeah, you have my sympathy :lol:

 

It turned out that the MK 6 helmet visor I bought is "Anti-Mine" - it says so printed right on the top left hand corner of the thing.

 

So far I haven't taken a V2 gearbox apart. Do you lot reckon it's more difficult to get back together than a V3?

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Very nice Gerber for my Birthday (comes in dead handy for all sorts of stuff in work).

 

IMG_0436.jpg

 

And some airsoft stuff for myself. Nothing to do with it being my birthday, actually ordered all of this when I was down in the Falklands.

 

Ops-Core stuff first to go on my TMC AirFrame, kept the packaging in so it's all labelled up without writing a list:

 

IMG_0438.jpg

 

Followed by G-Code.

 

IMG_0462.jpg

 

SOC Rig for P226

Extra SOC lower cowling for P226 + TLR-1

2 x H-MAR MOLLE RTI adapters

RTI MOLLE belt mount

One plain RTI wheel without any mounting solution

2 x Aluminium RTI Hangers for SERPAs

Most importantly, lots of sweet free merch'

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Also, how easy/hard is the ASCU to install? I plan on buying one this week or next, along with all my M4 parts as I'm getting money back from my laptop.

 

It's quite easy to actually mount the unit, it's the wires that make it a massive pain in the arse, they have a tendency to move away from the spot where you placed them whilst trying to get the gearbox shell back together.

 

The wires also break VERY easily, I had to rewire the motor connectors about 7 times trying to get them the right length so I didn't have to bend them to snapping point. So the first time you try, leave yourself enough wire spare for a second try.

 

Before closing the gearbox up make sure the sensor that monitors the sector gear, and the gear itself are in EXACTLY the place it tells you in the manual, if it's even slightly wrong you'll end up with the gun locking on semi every few shots because the unit will cut the motor power slightly before a full cycle, so eventually you'll get the tappet plate stuck at it's middle point and the gun will jam.

 

Also, you'll need your selector plate to have a metal strip on it, if it's entirely plastic you'll need to swap it out.

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A LCT PK-33 style AK Fire Selector and an AK Steel Ejection Port Cover with Stell Charging Handle. The former should make switching down to semi-auto slightly easier, but it will make flicking back up to full-auto much easier and thus quicker; the latter just looks nasty :D

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It's quite easy to actually mount the unit, it's the wires that make it a massive pain in the arse, they have a tendency to move away from the spot where you placed them whilst trying to get the gearbox shell back together.

 

The wires also break VERY easily, I had to rewire the motor connectors about 7 times trying to get them the right length so I didn't have to bend them to snapping point. So the first time you try, leave yourself enough wire spare for a second try.

 

Before closing the gearbox up make sure the sensor that monitors the sector gear, and the gear itself are in EXACTLY the place it tells you in the manual, if it's even slightly wrong you'll end up with the gun locking on semi every few shots because the unit will cut the motor power slightly before a full cycle, so eventually you'll get the tappet plate stuck at it's middle point and the gun will jam.

 

Also, you'll need your selector plate to have a metal strip on it, if it's entirely plastic you'll need to swap it out.

 

 

Okay, I hate the wires in V2 gearboxes as they are. I always end up trapping them or something stupid. I can see this going badly..

 

I'll bear that in mind, not really a fan of having guns lock up on me.

 

I've got that bit as the stock one snapped, so had to replace it :P.

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How on earth did you snap a selector plate...?

 

Anyway, I just ordered this for my L119A1 build: http://www.wolfarmouries.co.uk/airsoft/bb/...ct&id=GP286

 

The barrel is slightly too long... by half an inch... BUT Perr_mike has offered to shorten it for me for only £10 and that includes rethreading it and the return postage.

 

Absolutely phenomenally awesome guy.

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Getting the gearbox in my old M4, brute force and ignorance didn't work for a change, it just scratched it and snapped the selector plate..

 

Thought you didn't like G&P?

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I don't particularly but they have the most aftermarket parts available when it comes to external compatibility.

 

Plus, it's a project gun, so if it's bad I'll just swap out every inch of the internals.

 

As it stands the only thing I'm planning on keeping are the stock and stock tube and the internals, maybe the receiver too if it's a blank one.

 

I'm going to get a custom barrel extension, the C8 receiver (or have the current one engraved) swap the grip, add RIS, swap the front sight post/gas block and stick an ACOG on it.

 

Also planning on running it at 350 fps with a 6.01mm tightbore - I want to test for myself if the jamming rumours and poor accuracy are true.

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Yeah true, that's one reason my M4's going to be 95% G&P.

 

It shouldn't be bad, I think the M16 you had was an older one as you seemed to have more problems with it than I did with mine. Also, yours had white trades painted whereas mine were engraved.

 

It's G&P, it won't be a blank receiver! Why not build literally from scratch then, buy gearbox, motor, barrel, hop unit, everything separately?

 

I doubt they are as true as everyone says, just keep it clean after every game and use high quality BBs.

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I'm sure you can still get blank receivers. I definitely can't see any on the photo shown in the link I posted above.

 

So long as it's not the effing Marine body I'm not too bothered. Apparently the Colt receiver is sometimes used on the L119 so it wouldn't be all that inaccurate if it had that.

 

But I do have a passionate hatred of the Marine trades.

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It's the wrong way round to be able to see the trades, they're on the opposite side..

 

You're gonna love this then: on G&P's website, the M4 commando (RIS version and normal version) both have Marine trades :P.

Although Wolf Armouries may have removed the trades, I know some US retailers do (fill in engraved ones with wax and burn off others).

 

If you need RIS, why didn't you get the G&P commando with RIS?

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It's the wrong way round to be able to see the trades, they're on the opposite side..

 

You're gonna love this then: on G&P's website, the M4 commando (RIS version and normal version) both have Marine trades :P.

Although Wolf Armouries may have removed the trades, I know some US retailers do (fill in engraved ones with wax and burn off others).

 

If you need RIS, why didn't you get the G&P commando with RIS?

 

I couldn't find it with RIS anywhere and I only have a limited budget.

 

Also, I swear there are usually trades on both sides.

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