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Waco’s guide to field sustainment


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How do  you seal the head hole on a poncho when using it as a tarp? 

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6 minutes ago, Diemaco said:

 

Bungee? Or the hood adjustment cord? 

I take it the hood is then put over the hole as no matter how tight it's pulled there's still going to be a small hole

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Posted (edited)

 I go with twist the hood from the bottom until about half remains and then fold the resulting “pocket” over the twist. It’s possible to secure it with the draw cord but almost anything else is easier!

  If you use the hood as a tie out as well it tends to avoid it somewhat. 
 

  I’ve linked an old video by PackRat556. I have no stand for the phone to film and a video explains this much better. 
 


I don’t use reflective sheets quite the way he describes. It is a moisture barrier but you need an air gap for it to reflect heat so an air pad is needed.
 

If you have a fire it would be more effective as the back wall.

 

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My technical support agrees.

 

Next chunk will be general tarps and a ridgeline you can change easily. Plus a few useful but cheap accessories.

 

Then maybe something on hygiene!

 

The cat walked mud in. 🙄

Edited by The Waco Kid
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Tarps vs NV & Thermal

 

Great work by Bushcraft Buddy

 

 

 

In summary:
 

1) Use one of the thicker quality higher tarps.

2) Don’t expect to hide a heat source like a flame.

3) Don’t “print” through the tarp by touching it.

 

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Posted (edited)

Tarp accessories:

 

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• Brew on the go

• A pre-tied separate ridgeline*
• Pegs

• Duct tape (to fix stuff)

• #36 bankline

• 550 cord

• Mini carabiner (to join stuff)

• A stick

• Pre-tied guy lines*

• Cable ties (to fox stuff)

• Soft shackles* (replace carabiners)

• A bit of kip mat to sit of kneel on

 

* These will be explained but the means of excessive exposition below. 

 

Sir not appearing in this film:

 

• Tenacious tape (tm). I am not sure if Jack Black gets a cut but very good for nearly permanent field repairs.

• Tent/seam sealant. If you patch or sew extra loops (flat tape works best) on a tarp paint sealant 50/50 mix with water on the stitches. Diluted it is much neater.

• Half a tennis ball. Goes on the end of the stick to protect the tarp you wedge it under. Mine is holding my tarpstar up at the moment.

 

These might work at a push:

 

• Pebble. Got no tie out on your tarp? Take smooth pebble, twist fabric around it and secure with cord to make tie off.

• No tie off? If it’s a PVC tarp make a loop from duct tape or tape gutted paracord as a loop to it. If you do a neat job it will last a while.

Edited by The Waco Kid
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Posted (edited)

Da’ Boyz Supa Dakka Ridgeline:

 

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Brainboyz has already done most of da knots. It is red coz dat goes fasta.

 

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1) Loop on end for tree. Sum PRUSSIKs wiv SOFT SHACKLEs(eh?). A bunch more string.

 

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Loop end goes around tree. Put rest of string through loop and slide prussiks along. Pull loop snug as you skip merrily to the next tree.

 

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Put the string around the tree and pull tight. Paracord stretches a fair bit. 
 

Tie a supa-boa-weeble-hitch like what I had just invented. See above.

 

NB: If you can’t tie knots, tie lots.

 

 

2) Attach the tarp, basha, cloak of infinite smells etc to the Prussks on the ridgeline.

If you are a talentless hack use mini carabiners.

If you am da bestest use soft shackles*. See after class.

 

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Pull the prussiks tight.

Edited by The Waco Kid
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Posted (edited)

3) Guylines.

 

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No not that sort. Maybe later.

 

Pre-made guyline with all knots tied. I cheat and use line locks. Shhh it’s a secret.


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I have a couple of longer guy lined incase I want to tie around a tree or rock. And a couple not to long (1m).


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I have not tied the stakes on as I have a variety of pegs and also use the guys to tie to other objects. In which case the loop end goes around the tree or post and the line lock end gets attached to the tarp with a soft shackle.

Edited by The Waco Kid
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Posted (edited)

5) Finish off by tightening up all the prussiks and guys.

 

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  If it’s going to rain add in the stick, plus half tennis ball, this needs to be quite a snug fit.

 
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  Basha poles (I don’t have any) will allow you to get more tension or even rig a free standing tarp. You may need more pegs though.

 

  The four eyelets on the above tarp are not ideal for getting a good pitch.

 

14CD0672-989E-4799-96F4-6542DDD6BE4C.thumb.jpeg.4193aa49850fdf8200e2ad23533c3f28.jpeg

 

  Six points, or more, is lot better.

 

  And only one knot tied in situ.

 

Edited by The Waco Kid
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Posted (edited)

* 6) So what the fuck is a soft shackle? I am glad you asked…. 😉


 A bunch of different lengths.


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A better explanation than mine from Blackie Thomas:

 


I am Commander Shepard and that is my favourite soft shackle on the Citadel.

 

Edited by The Waco Kid
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A cunning trick to adding more tie off points (e.g. to tie the centre of a tarp up if there isn't a sewn in loop provided, or to repair an eyelet that has torn out), is to use a small pebble, nut, coin or similar on the underside of the trap., then gather the fabric around it, and tie off against the 'neck' of that.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Personal admin/Hygiene

 

  Going for 48 hours without washing will "probably" not kill you. I mean Jaykay from Jamiroqui last washed in 1983 and is fine.

 

  There are however a few things that are useful:

 

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  Insect repellent. In the warmer (game season) months most sites will have flying bugs. If you are out at night or lying up you can end up being a magnet for creepie crawlies.

 

There are various strengths and products designed to treat clothing and mosquito nets as well as put directly on your skin. DEET is a common ingredient but deet free versions exist for those who don't like it.

 

   In the UK the main problem are tick which carry various unpleasant diseases. In addition to repellant you can get tick removal tweezers, but not best used mid-game....

 

  Remember to blouse those combat trousers!

 

 "Hygine kit" If you are planning on being on the game field for more than a day a small ziploc bag containing, wet wipes, tissues, rubbish, hand gel and a chewable toothbrush will cover a lot. Add a small booboo pouch of plasters and blister pads and it can easily be wedged in the back of a hydration pouch or pocket. Lip balm and sun block (if needed) are better kept in a chest pocket or similar.

 

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At the FOB:

 

Some sites are blessed with actual toilets, maybe even a shower bock. For most it's a portaloo who's previous user was Big Dave who staggered in after a bender last night and has just emptied out three king size doner kebabs. This is why it's good to have toilet roll, hand sanitizer and a gas mask at base camp. 🤢

 

If you are at an event with no facilities at all building your own "log cabin" in the game field isn't really the done thing. There are simple portable sets ups that use a small pop up tent, Bucket with seat and a bag of absorbent material.

Bog in a bag.jpg

 

  The same tent can generally be used to hang up a solar shower. Ideally these should be filled with mains/potable water as water from a stream will still carry bacteria. These will breed like crazy in the shower given a few days of warmth.

 

  If you are going to the point of having an actual wash kit then a lot of travel soap or trek wash is designed to be used with little or no additional water. Which saves a bit of lugging stuff about. Military products like foot (the groin) powder are fungicides meant for longer deployments so also not necessary for a weekend in most cases.

Edited by The Waco Kid
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O’Tom tick twister great for removing ticks - there’s always a risk of squeezing too hard with tweezers and leaving the tick’s head under the skin, leading to infection.

 

Smidge, another top recommendation - made from natural ingredients, kind to skin and plastic toy gnus and smells nice.

 

The benefits of 30+ years living, working and playing in the outdoors… 🙂

IMG_8489.jpeg

IMG_8490.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Davet said:

O’Tom tick twister great for removing ticks - there’s always a risk of squeezing too hard with tweezers and leaving the tick’s head under the skin, leading to infection.

 

Smidge, another top recommendation - made from natural ingredients, kind to skin and plastic toy gnus and smells nice.

 

The benefits of 30+ years living, working and playing in the outdoors… 🙂

IMG_8489.jpeg

IMG_8490.jpeg

I second this, and use both of them. 

 

First game we ever played the lad got three ticks.  I once had 14!  The one on the back of my bollox was not funny.  Forget the embarrassment and get someone to check you over.  Use your phone camera if on your own.  FFS delete the vid straight away....   

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7 minutes ago, Tactical Pith Helmet said:

I second this, and use both of them. 

 

First game we ever played the lad got three ticks.  I once had 14!  The one on the back of my bollox was not funny.  Forget the embarrassment and get someone to check you over.  Use your phone camera if on your own.  FFS delete the vid straight away....   

Lol, I'd prob press the wrong button & livestream that shit🤣

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Posted (edited)

Carrying it on the man (or women).

 

 In summary we’ve now got a small brew kit, possibly a small hygiene/first aid pack, bit of ground insulation and a tarp or poncho.

 

Example brew kit based on USGI canteen.

 

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Canteen carrier: This is a three row by three to four column molle foot print. A large utility or Admin pouch would serve as well. The size will work on a midsize chest rig. It is geared more to belt kit the rear of a vest.

 

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Contents are:

 

in main pouch USGI or Nalgene canteen; USGI metal mug, stove stand, mug lid. Foil windscreen; foil “cup” to hold burning fuel tab; coffee filter paper (water pre filter ) folded up behind pouch lid.

Side pockets have lighter; puritabs; drink powder; lighter; folding spork; tiny alcohol burner; duct tape.

Not shown but will also fit: fuel tabs/esbit; matches.

 

  This is a very compact system. Open top pouch is easy to access the bottle but crap will get in the mug.
  Can run on fuel tabs plus alcohol or sticks at a push. Pretty much unbreakable. Never going to be as fast as gas, let alone a jetboil however.

 

Edited by The Waco Kid
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Example shelter system carrier based on USGI kit.

 

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MOLLE II waist pack (canteen for scale). This is about 7L can be attached to a pack or vest. It also has a built in waist strap so can be used with a chest rig as a quick add on or ditched, shoulder slung etc.

 

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Contents are:

 

Boot liners; spare socks; boo-boo kit (yellow) including painkillers; hand sanitizer; tissues; ferro rod; sewing kit; BCB fire dragon stove; single ration meal & extra drinks; paracord; foot powder; poncho and pegs; folded cut off bit of kip mat.

 

The kip mat is quite thick. Thinner dedicated sit mats can be had that save space. In service the poncho and accessories was often rolled and lashed to the outside of the butt pack.

 

This gives enough space to inside to add more food, a thermal top etc.

 

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Alternative MOLLE waist pack compared to a single PLCE Bergen side pocket (about 10L). These can attached to a yoke or webbing harness.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thinking of actually sleeping in the game field? 
 

Taking part in an extended event where you need to be away from the safe zone for a day or two?

 

Missed out on DofE and now feeling sad?


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Go and buy a military bergen!
 

No!

 

Hold on before you pull the trigger. 😉

 

Don’t get me wrong I have plenty of military packs…. By hauling a fully loaded out one for a game is not enjoyable.

 

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If we go from the previous basic set up you do not need much more to stay out for a night or two.

 

  Few game sites will be big enough that returning to the safe zone is out of the question. So carrying lots of consumables probably is not required.

  Mil/Battle sim events often cap ammo anyway so you may as well get food & water at the same time.

Edited by The Waco Kid
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Imo the best way to insulate yourself from the ground is to get up off it. If you're putting up a basha between trees then hang a hammock underneath it. They're relatively cheap, lightweight and more compact than a kip mat

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Yep, a string bag hammock can fit in a pocket.  I also have a Jungle Blanket as recommended by @Jacob Wright a few weeks ago.  Bloody good bit of kit to wrap yourself up in.  Weighs nothing, and folds up fairly small.  Wind and rain proof too.  Even comes in OD.   

 

4D tarps are damn good, but the silver lined Ebay jobs lasted me a couple of years with reproofing until someone lost them.  

Edited by Tactical Pith Helmet
Typo
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I should probably  add that I've never used one for a milsim, just camping, but the first time it did use it I probably had the best night sleep I'd had when camping ever. The trick is to lay on it diagonally so you get a horizontal sleeping position 

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13 minutes ago, gavinkempsell said:

I'd be better off using a 40yr old sleeping mat, I'd end up on the deck anyway.

 

 

Haha it never fails to be funny. Hammocks and people getting hit in the balls with balls lol.

I'm easily amused though.🙂

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On 01/05/2024 at 23:18, Cannonfodder said:

Imo the best way to insulate yourself from the ground is to get up off it. If you're putting up a basha between trees then hang a hammock underneath it. They're relatively cheap, lightweight and more compact than a kip mat

 

....but, it must also be said that hammocks can be extremely cold, more so in some situations than sleeping in direct contact with the ground. The air circulates underneath you, and your sleeping bag is fully compressed  below you in exactly the same areas as the air circulates providing extremely limited insulation as a result. One solution is a sleeping mat inside the hammock (ideally a self inflating mat partially inflated), but these slip around and can be uncomfortable. The gold standard for insulation in a hammock is some form of underblanket e.g. https://www.outdoorgb.com/p/Snugpak_Hammock_Underblanket/ . The days of sleeping under a basha are well behind me, and I always go for hammocks these days - much more flexibility to set up over whatever ground conditions, comfortable (when rigged ideally - otherwise a nightmare), and fun!

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