Mp5k Weapon Light/Flashlight Mount Solutions

[loctez]

Hi All,

 

I picked up a cheap Galaxy mp5k to have a go at some CQB (usually play woodland and most of the rifles are too hot/unsuitable for indoor fields)

 

This is the standard no frills/no rails version.

 

What have people seen as a solution to mount a flashlight onto this bad boy?  The options I have come across:

1 - Gaffa 

2 - Drill and mount a small section of rail to the handguard

3 - top rail + canted side mount rail 

Any suggestions?

 

 

[BigStew]

You could replace the front hand grip with one with an integrated flash light (probably more expensive than the gun) swap the foregrip for a ris (somewhere like wish your best bet for cheap), mod your existing for grip. Mount a light on the hand guard and fit the battery in the grip or you could fit a short suppressor/tracer and mount a light to that. 

[Skara]

Go SAS style with a humongous maglite bolted to the top.

A full sized maglite, that is.

[Speedbird_666]

You go with something like this (Yes, I know it's gopping to look at)

 

[Rogerborg]

^^^

That gopping solution is surprisingly cheap from PatrolBase.

 

I've gone with a clamp on rail (MP5 / G3) and an offset mount FTW.

 

 

 

Good job on scoring a Galaxy, they're cheap, fun little guns, and surprisingly shooty: mine was 0.9J (310-315 fps) out of the box and is up to 1.04J now (335fps) with a 6.01mm AOLS barrel, Maple Leaf rubber and an M100 spring (plus o-ring stetching and greasing) on the stock air components.  I think the stock spring is maybe an M90. Should you ever need to know, the hop unit is Jing Gong equivalent.

 

The weak points are the sloppy hop, stock battery, the motor and the lonnnnng trigger pull.  7.4V lipos can fit down the tube and you can even just about squeeze in a small mosfet - I recommend switching the wiring to the rear.  Retain the plastic gubbins in the front though, as it gives some rigidity to the muzzle.  Pushing or pulling on the grip can deflect the muzzle, which is an issue if you've got a tracer or suppressor on it, it can actually cause the BBs to impact on it.

 

The slide hop isn't great, it's not precise and mine was loose from the factory and loved to wind itself off. I'd recommend tightening up the screws on both sides, cable-tying the hop arm to the barrel, and/or packing rubber o-rings under it to give it more stickiness.

 

A better motor really helps with trigger response.  With a Big Dragon M140, 7.4V lipo and mosfet mine is pretty snappy now.

 

The trigger itself is problematic, you can't shim out all the slack or else it doesn't reset, although I've got small pieces of rubber glued front and back to take out as much as possible.  An optical trigger mosfet might solve it.  Luke at Negative Airsoft demonstrates on this pre-gopped example (and yes, mine was missing the motor pinion grub screw too)...

 

 

[Speedbird_666]

21 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:

^^^

That gopping solution is surprisingly cheap from PatrolBase.

 

I knew I'd seen it cheaper somewhere - but couldn't remember the vendor! I picked out Z1 only because I saw it in the store last week.

 

Worth a punt for £9 IMO.

[loctez]

2 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

You go with something like this (Yes, I know it's gopping to look at)

 

 

 

A great practical bit of kit, especially from PB at £9 and most likely the solution to all current and future mounting issues.  But form always takes precident over function and that is, as stated, goppy af.

 

I love the os SAS style of the mp5k,

 

Rogerborg this looks great, nearly the top heavy maglight stegosaurus we crave.  Fantastic info on the Galaxy too, thank you very much.  I have currently just got it stock with a 7.4 lipo but as you say the trigger feels a little sloppy.  Will look into motors.

 

I have put some electrical tape under the slide hop as I have heard this was an issue.

 

2 hours ago, Rogerborg said:

^^^

That gopping solution is surprisingly cheap from PatrolBase.

 

I've gone with a clamp on rail (MP5 / G3) and an offset mount FTW.

 

 

 

[Rogerborg]

40 minutes ago, loctez said:

the trigger feels a little sloppy. 

 

It's an inherent problem with the V3 two-part trigger, especially in this long configuration.  There's loads of take-up before the slack comes out, and I haven't found a way of sorting it, because you need the slack to allow the trigger trolley to disengage.  I might take a punt on one of the cheaper optical mosfets from AliExpress.

 

 

 

 

Quote

Will look into motors.

 

I might just have got a bad one, mine looks different from the stock motor that Luke pulled out of his (although it was also missing the grub screw and left the pinion inside the gearbox).  A decent motor really transformed it though, especially the semi-auto response.

 

 

Quote

 

I have put some electrical tape under the slide hop as I have heard this was an issue.

 

Yup, although the real fix is to tighten the screws on the hop (carefully).  Splitting it is easy enough, just take the back pins out, then then unscrew and push through the pin just behind the magwell, and it slides apart.  There's some wiggling and squeezing together of the upper to get it all fully apart, but it just takes a bit of self belief.  When re-assembling, it helps to not push the hop unit fully home first: keep it loose and pull it back onto the gearbox, as it has to go in at an angle, and it's tricky getting the nozzle to seat into the hop if the hop is already fully home.

 

All that said, it's decent enough out of the box, especially for the price, and it doesn't need anything doing to it, especially not inside the perfectly solid gearbox.  I've just had fun finding out how much you can do with one, it's been one of my best purchases.

[Skara]

Go get a Perun V3 Hybrid.

Advanced Titan functionalities for the price of a basic Aster.

[Groot]

I have that Galaxy MP5K. 

Had the gearbox short stroked, mosfet fitted, Mapleleaf hop and bucking. Running on a 7.4 Lipo.

It is a little wee beastie. The range and accuracy is super good. 

My plan is the mount a rail directly onto the plastic front grip. Then a light onto that. Seems the simplest easiest low profile way of doing it. 

Basically like this. Except on mine i am removing the vertical grip as well

[Rogerborg]

Yup, I was very surprised to discover that they're usable as a woodland primary, even as stock.  Not something that I'd expected, and it demonstrates how much barrel length doesn't really matter in airsoft.

 

I was minded to short-stroke mine, but I was too cheap to spring for a full metal racked piston.  Although thinking about it, if you only remove the teeth that aren't going to get engaged, then it's not like you're putting any more strain on the plastic ones.

 

If you're binning off the vertical grip, have you considered making a whole new front grip piece out of kydex?

[Groot]

1 hour ago, Rogerborg said:

 

 

If you're binng off the vertical grip, have you considered making a whole new front grip piece out of kydex?

I would have no idea at all how to do that.

A saw, filler, sand paper and black paint on the other hand

[Wavey_Gravey]

Magpul make an mp5K hand guard, m-lock slots all round.

 

Or just pop it at 12 O’clock on the claw mount providing you don’t need to use your irons.

 

[Druid799]

13 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

I know it's gopping 

Hahahahaha now there’s an expressive phrase I haven’t heard in a LONG time ! ???

[Rogerborg]

1 hour ago, Groot said:

I would have no idea at all how to [make one from kydex]

 

You can learn as you go, kydex is super easy to use. It's tough but easy enough to cut, then just heat it and shape, and reheat and reshape as often as necessary until you're happy.  You can use a heat gun, or just pop it in an oven. 2mm should be good enough, 3mm would be really solid.

[enzo47]

J-tech mp5/g3 front rail adapter

 

[loctez]

So for those that may stumble across the thread in the futureverse I have finally come up with a solution.

 

I picked up a cheapo weapon light/surefire clone that had a detachable rail mount.  Drilled two holes in the plastic handguard and just direct mounted this on.

Pressure pad on the other side of the handguard.

 

Doesn't block irons, foregrip can still be taken off for battery replacement (have not re-wired), no "goppy" rails and didn't cost that much. 

 

Will report back when if all falls of in the first game.

[Rogerborg]

Nice to see an ungopped solution.

 

Do you find that tracer deflecting your shots?  I couldn't get on with a similarly sized Lighter-S and have had to go up to a Spitfire with a larger inner tunnel.

[loctez]

 

Cheers, saw a lad with a gopped pdw a few weeks ago and scoffed at his weapons inferiority.

 

9 hours ago, Rogerborg said:

Do you find that tracer deflecting your shots?  I couldn't get on with a similarly sized Lighter-S and have had to go up to a Spitfire with a larger inner tunnel.

 

Not at all, I remember reading your comments and having a play.  I tried to flex the grip about but couldn't get it anywhere near to being an issue.  Maybe your threads somewhere are a little off?  

[Cannonfodder]

On 11/06/2021 at 09:15, Speedbird_666 said:

You go with something like this (Yes, I know it's gopping to look at)

 

My galaxy came with one of those. Not only are they fugly as hell but they make changing the battery even more of a ball ache as you have to undo 7 screws to get it off

[Rogerborg]

 

1 hour ago, Cannonfodder said:

they make changing the battery even more of a ball ache as you have to undo 7 screws to get it off

 

Yup, but I'd rear-wire these anyway, there's room to run thick wires up between the gearbox and the rear cap.