THE TM MWS thread

[Recoil_]

3 hours ago, GothicGhost said:

 

I was thinking same thing this today lol but need to find something thin but durable.

What about a bit of heatshrink?

[sabaka]

On 22/05/2021 at 06:22, TadsJ2 said:

Regarding the 4.5 and 5.0 nozzles on shorter than required inner barrels. It shouldnt work: if you put a standart tm nozzle in longer barrel it gives an absurd amount of FPS but has no gas efficiency and etc. Those nozzles are adapted for longer barrels and to my knowledge they should give LESS gas output for them, so if you will put it inside SHORTER barrels then they were constructed for the gun either wont shoot, will give a low fps, could as well jam.

 

But hey it's just words of caution, let me know your findings on this one.

thanks for answer😉👍. how is your angry gun gen.2 nozzle set working? worth it to try?

Edited May 23, 2021 by sabaka

[TadsJ2]

On 23/05/2021 at 12:12, sabaka said:

thanks for answer😉👍. how is your angry gun gen.2 nozzle set working? worth it to try?

Its working fine, u just need to loctite it a bit since its less tight then G&P, but since I will play on higher fps i went with G&P adjustable nozzle (NPAS) set, its has far better quality build so entire AG v2 will be a spare just in case. 
Tomorrow i will have some time to test whether G&P NPAS nozzle will work with adjustable nozzle stop  - so if i dont like how G&P NPAS consistency will be later on i will be able to use it as enchanced nozzle for adjustable nozzle stop after i loctite the shit out of the screw inside

Edited May 24, 2021 by TadsJ2

[Recoil_]

Hi all,

 

What's a good buffer set up for the MWS that fits the original stock? Just for when the original one cracks.

 

Things are pretty confusing online as to what will fit with no mods. Will I need a new sealing ring?

 

Many thanks

[TadsJ2]

 

39 minutes ago, Recoil_ said:

Hi all,

 

What's a good buffer set up for the MWS that fits the original stock? Just for when the original one cracks.

 

Things are pretty confusing online as to what will fit with no mods. Will I need a new sealing ring?

 

Many thanks

By buffer setup u mean: buffer tube? or buffer spring guide?

1 hour ago, TadsJ2 said:

Its working fine, u just need to loctite it a bit since its less tight then G&P, but since I will play on higher fps i went with G&P adjustable nozzle (NPAS) set, its has far better quality build so entire AG v2 will be a spare just in case. 
Tomorrow i will have some time to test whether G&P NPAS nozzle will work with adjustable nozzle stop  - so if i dont like how G&P NPAS consistency will be later on i will be able to use it as enchanced nozzle for adjustable nozzle stop after i loctite the shit out of the screw inside

So I did it today, i've come to conclusion - 
G&P Adjustable nozzle (NPAS) works with adjustable nozzle stop - nozzle stop holds G&P NPAS nozzle sturdier than TM OG one. 
BUT in my case its a no go, on a lowest setting it gives me 410FPS, highest - 460; so i've put the NPAS set back together and its ~393FPS  - so its still working correctly after using it for ~ 20-30shots with adjustable nozzle stop. 

 

I wonder what could i do to loose 10FPS?

 

In the photo on the right - lowest setting on adjustable nozzle stop. 
 

 

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by TadsJ2

[Recoil_]

@TadsJ2
I mean the buffer itself. Like this one: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/angry-gun-super-recoil-buffer-kit-for-marui-mws-gbb-high-speed-version

 

I'd ideally like to leave the buffer tube stock

[TadsJ2]

6 minutes ago, Recoil_ said:

@TadsJ2
I mean the buffer itself. Like this one: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/angry-gun-super-recoil-buffer-kit-for-marui-mws-gbb-high-speed-version

 

I'd ideally like to leave the buffer tube stock

In that case u are talking strictly about buffer spring guide. As far as i know there are no good alternatives to OG plastic one - if you change it to metal the recoil will be harder, but everything else in the gun will be fucked.
Also guys here tend to not recommend AG parts, which I can agree with, their QC is really bad and u will never know if u will get a decent product or not.
If you really want to save the OG buffer spring guide from any damage: buy SixG HSB and just save yourself a headache and 3D print Buffer Spring Guide PART B (link to .stl its in this thread ~190 page somewhere) like I did. 

Edited May 24, 2021 by TadsJ2

[Davegolf]

Just run a HSB and you shouldn’t break the TM buffer

[Recoil_]

@TadsJ2
Great, I'll order the HSB. Thank you

 

 

[Recoil_]

On 22/05/2021 at 18:54, GothicGhost said:

 

I was thinking same thing this today lol but need to find something thin but durable.

Mine arrived today, a bit of heatshrink (can be shrunk or left as is). Put it over the rear part. 
 

Use the torx tool to punch a hole. Take the heatshrink off and enlarge the hole slightly so the screw fits nicely. Heatshrink back on and tighten down. No excessive pressure on the catch and it will not scratch the upper receiver.

 

Not too obvious unless you look up close.

[GothicGhost]

34 minutes ago, Recoil_ said:

Mine arrived today, a bit of heatshrink (can be shrunk or left as is). Put it over the rear part. 
 

Use the torx tool to punch a hole. Take the heatshrink off and enlarge the hole slightly so the screw fits nicely. Heatshrink back on and tighten down. No excessive pressure on the catch and it will not scratch the upper receiver.

 

Not too obvious unless you look up close.

Very nice I will try that on mine tomorrow 😁

[Recoil_]

It's pretty straightforward, just is a shade tighter to screw in but not masses

[gunbod007]

Tell me you're British, without actually saying you're British.

[GothicGhost]

What parts would I need to replace to use this as a DMR with around 450 FPS?

 

I was thinking HPA tap the mags as some point as well.

Thanks.

[AlphaBear]

HPA? The cheek of it. We don’t talk about such sacrilege to a MWS. Wash your mouth out with whiskey then vodka then rum @GothicGhost 😱😱😱😱😱

[Guest]

File the selector so auto doesn’t work, Run it on HPA, turn the pressure up until you get to 450fps. Job done 

[quango2k]

On 21/05/2021 at 13:44, GothicGhost said:

Got the magpul bad lever and bolt locks back fine on stock bolt stop so far.

 

A warning to others do ot use the bad lever as it marks the body of the gun, even after sanding the back lots it will still catch

 

Big waste of £35 ffs

 

A warning to others do ot use the bad lever as it marks the body of the gun, even after sanding the back lots it will still catch

 

Big waste of £35 ffs

Its a tiny mark...you will get bigger ones so whats the big deal

15 hours ago, Recoil_ said:

Mine arrived today, a bit of heatshrink (can be shrunk or left as is). Put it over the rear part. 
 

Use the torx tool to punch a hole. Take the heatshrink off and enlarge the hole slightly so the screw fits nicely. Heatshrink back on and tighten down. No excessive pressure on the catch and it will not scratch the upper receiver.

 

Not too obvious unless you look up close.

 why didnt you shrink it too so its even less visible? 

 

I just put mine on, sure its marked but who gives a toss..its a gun that will get smacked about. You making a showroom piece or a tool for a job?  

[quango2k]

Can only see it with the body open 

[Recoil_]

1 hour ago, quango2k said:

Its a tiny mark...you will get bigger ones so whats the big deal

 why didnt you shrink it too so its even less visible? 

 

I just put mine on, sure its marked but who gives a toss..its a gun that will get smacked about. You making a showroom piece or a tool for a job?  

I haven't shrinker it yet as I don't have a blowtorch to hand but it's also my weapon, doesn't affect anyone with it being heatshrinked.

[Reap]

Hi guys, hope your all well, just wanted to run something past a few of you experts, on Saturday I filled 6 mags and took the MK18 out into the garden basically just to zero my holographic sights and have a bit of fun. First 3 mags were fine but as the other 3 sat on the table they were getting colder to the touch, anyway 4th mag goes in and she’s struggling to empty on full auto, and then the gas purged and it was mainly coming out the end of the muzzle/dummy silencer. Now I don’t know if I’m being paranoid but there is now a vibrating spring sound after every shot, I took out the BCG and every time I pull on the nozzle it makes a vibrating sound after it returns to normal position, I don’t know if the sound was always there?  or if I’m just being paranoid? 
 

[AlphaBear]

19 minutes ago, Reap said:

Hi guys, hope your all well, just wanted to run something past a few of you experts, on Saturday I filled 6 mags and took the MK18 out into the garden basically just to zero my holographic sights and have a bit of fun. First 3 mags were fine but as the other 3 sat on the table they were getting colder to the touch, anyway 4th mag goes in and she’s struggling to empty on full auto, and then the gas purged and it was mainly coming out the end of the muzzle/dummy silencer. Now I don’t know if I’m being paranoid but there is now a vibrating spring sound after every shot, I took out the BCG and every time I pull on the nozzle it makes a vibrating sound after it returns to normal position, I don’t know if the sound was always there?  or if I’m just being paranoid? 
 

The vibrating spring noise is part of the BCG. It’s the spring that’s making the erm spring noise. Mine had it too. More like a knicker elastic twang. 🤷🏻‍♂️

.

The twang is not loud. It’s just there. 

[Reap]

33 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

The vibrating spring noise is part of the BCG. It’s the spring that’s making the erm spring noise. Mine had it too. More like a knicker elastic twang. 🤷🏻‍♂️

.

The twang is not loud. It’s just there. 

Twang, perfectly put, it’s exactly that a twang, so I’m just being paranoid then. My mk18 always struggles on green gas on full auto at around 10 degrees Celsius, got a game Sunday and temp looks to be around 20 so hopefully she performs well.

[AlphaBear]

10 minutes ago, Reap said:

Twang, perfectly put, it’s exactly that a twang, so I’m just being paranoid then. My mk18 always struggles on green gas on full auto at around 10 degrees Celsius, got a game Sunday and temp looks to be around 20 so hopefully she performs well.

Stick in Abbey Ultra (red can) It’s green gas but has more punch and easily works well in our cold temperatures at the moment. 
 

To check your mags just get some cheap green gas and expel any air blockages that’s may be in the magazine. Essentially hold the gas release valve open (in) and stick gas through the magazine until it flows out consistently. That’s just to ensure any blockages are cleared. 

[Reap]

4 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

Stick in Abbey Ultra (red can) It’s green gas but has more punch and easily works well in our cold temperatures at the moment. 
 

To check your mags just get some cheap green gas and expel any air blockages that’s may be in the magazine. Essentially hold the gas release valve open (in) and stick gas through the magazine until it flows out consistently. That’s just to ensure any blockages are cleared. 

Awesome advice! cheers dude

[Recoil_]

1 hour ago, AlphaBear said:

Stick in Abbey Ultra (red can) It’s green gas but has more punch and easily works well in our cold temperatures at the moment. 
 

To check your mags just get some cheap green gas and expel any air blockages that’s may be in the magazine. Essentially hold the gas release valve open (in) and stick gas through the magazine until it flows out consistently. That’s just to ensure any blockages are cleared. 

What gas do you change to in the winter? Do you just stick with Abbey Ultra?