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I have a TM VSR10-G spec with Upgrades installed EdGi 430mm bull barrel. Laylax barrel spacers. 90� zero pull trigger. Laylax piston. Laylax cylinder and cylinder head. Laylax spring guide. Action army hop up unit. Maple leaf 60� autobot bucking. Maple leaf omega nub. I baught this 2nd hand 4 years ago used it 3 times then stopped playing, I have recintly decided to get back into airsoft as I have free time again and I installed a new Action Army Vsr-10 M150 Spring but im only getting 260 fps so I thourght somthing may be broke. I took it all apart re-lubes it all with silocone spray. when I got to my buckshot it looked ok no visable tears but old. here are photos anyone got any suggestions on what I need to do?

That 36K will probably increase your RPS to near 30. Depending on your exact setup, this may end in PME and/or overspin. I suggest either looking for a 30K brushless or going with a brushed 16-18 TPA Neo. Krytac stock motors are technically Neo motors but they’re very weak, so a new motor with strong magnets will be an upgrade.

No its always been run on 11.1 lipo, the standard krytac motor is pretty worn out now so needs replacing, hence the upgrade and yes I was planning on utilising precocking.

I should have mentioned I actually shoot air rifles lol. I can shoot half inch groups at 35-40 yards with them but would never expect that from any airsoft gun, it's impossible. Just for fun and for the garden too is all I expect. I'd expect a bolt action to be more accurate than an AEG but it seems that's not always the case unless you pay the premium or upgrade it to the max. I'll keep an eye out for a cheap bolt action springer or possibly another AEG

Hi all, Off the back of my Specna adventure I also decided to upgrade the Warthog 12". Replacing the standard 330mm 6.08mm barrel with a ZCI 340mm 6.02mm barrel. New ZCI rotary hop and Maple leaf maceron 60 and omega nub. Before I did the upgrade I played a site yesterday, the gun originally chronod at avg 321fps on .2 with hop set. On site it was about 297fps on .2. I've played a few days since it was chronod and the gun was new from shop when I got it. So it's not done much. Is it normal to drop that much after a few games, bedding in? Anyway, I got the same results when I got home and checked fps. So I upgraded the parts anyway, the fps increased marginaly, I'm guessing due to barrel, to around 306fps on average using .2. For reference I use .25 in game, which is giving an avg of 265fps now. Does anyone know what the factory spring is in this rifle? I was thinking of upgrading it to get a bit more out the gun.

Springer Custom Works makes a SV-98 Chassis for the VSR-10 platform, if you need your SV-98 itch scratched. I have one on my VSR-X and its a phenomenal piece of kit.

I am wanting to upgrade the inner barrel of my G&G M14 Socom 16, can anyone recommend a good brand and source? Thanks in advance 👍

Upgrade day 🤪… The ‘essential’ Laylax purple bits and 6.03 barrel ☑️

In short - yes, I still use bipods. A lot. In long... Yes. I still use bipods, though I have removed them from certain guns and keep them on others (none are sitting idle, all my bipods are on a gun). I found that they were pointless for my VSRs, which are very lightweight rifles so it's no problem for me to hold them up for prolonged periods of time. Worst case I rest them against the ground and then slowly (so I don't get spotted) raise them if I need to shoot something. I don't run a bipod on my faux wood m14, since that's for Vietnam games and Harris bipods don't look the part, and I don't have one on my m14 socom, since that's designed around the idea of a recce rifle, which you want to be as light as possible while still being a longer distance rifle, as it's a rifle you're supposed to be doing recce with, which is a lot of movement over a lot of distance, and carrying unnecessary weight for that is bad; I know these things aren't important to airsoft, but muh immersion! Bipods aren't great for recce builds! However, I still run a bipod on both of my gas bolt actions (KJW m700s, one of which is in an m40a5 stock) as they're heavier anyway and if I'm lying in a spot, which happens a lot, I don't want to have to support the weight of that for long periods of time. I also run a bipod on my HPA m14, SR-25 and my MWS (the one set up as a mk12) for similar reasons. I use them all like sniper rifles and tend to find myself set up lying prone for long periods of time playing this way, since it's a great way to remain undetected. Also, my m249 has a bipod built in and I use that to deploy the gun to rain BBs on a position. It is heavy and will always be heavy, because LMG... Basically, anything I run like a sniper rifle, with the VSR and faux wood m14 as exceptions, I run a bipod on since I find myself going prone a lot and having to hold lines for long periods of time. I don't always deploy it as sometimes I can rest it on something else, like a log, stone or the ground if I'm cresting over the top of an incline. Considering most of the guns I use are already pretty heavy, in part because a lot of them are gas guns, a bipod isn't that much more added weight and is very useful for how I play.

Sound advice mate. Appreciate it. Ill find the wiitech upgrade and get both done. Gives me something to do lol. - Chris

it can be a tricky as the nozzle return springs are tiny and easily bent. I'd buy some spares just in case. Got mine done by a tech to save the hassle Another known weak point in the mp9 is the disconnector which is made of cheese, wiitech do a steel upgrade part which is worth getting too

Hi folks, I mainly play with GBBR but over this year I want to build a OP aeg for those winter months. I’m thinking of buying a Specna Arms A07 that’s going cheap near me to do a brushless upgrade, but as this will be the first time I fit a brushless motor, what other upgrades do you recommend? I’m planning on fitting ZCI 16:1 gears

Alright, took it apart after today's game and: The internals are proprietary except for the motor, inner barrels and hop rubbers. The springs are vsr-like, but half the length and of odd diametre (11.3mm OD, 8.90 ID). Piston heads (consequently "cylinders" and cylinder heads) are smaller than AEG spec at 20mm OD. Nozzles are proprietary and don't have o-rings. Barrels are supposed to be 226x6.03 but I will check this later. Performance wise it's a hungry beast. Just setting the hops will chew through half a kilogram of 0.25s, it's far from efficient as well, drawing 30odd amps to start and keeping 24A during function, but that is due to the motor being a meh ferrite one. The upgrade plan is: • sort the air seal with new o-rings; • replace the motor with a less thirsty one, even if the overall ROF goes down; • replace hop rubbers to get the maximum possible range on 0.25s; • [optional] replace the inner barrels to bring the power up closer to 0.99J without putting unnecessary stress on the mechanical components. Alternatively make some spacers to go between piston heads and springs to compress them a little more. Pro tip for long term storage: Unscrew the barrel assembly, due to the way it works 4 out of 5 springs are always under tension. Edit: a full sized, picture filled breakdown and "review" will come once I have upgraded it.

It literally just acts like an ordinary motor except for in conjunction with ETUs and other units that use AB or reverse the polarity for other reasons. For example, my primary uses a T238 33K brushless with the stock 18:1 gearset. I get 29 RPS on 11.1v with extremely snappy trigger response. No ETU, just the stock inline MOSFET and microswitch. But if you want OP trigger response… I used another T238 33K paired with a 16:1 spur, a standard 10T bevel, and an SHS DSG gear. Boom: 60 RPS. (Disclaimer: never used on auto in a game) But if you really want ultimate trigger response, you don’t need to go brushless: either build a simple 18:1 28TPA DSG on 11.1v, or a 12:1 28TPA SSG using 14.8v. Use a Perun or Gate and set precocking if you like. in general, you don’t need to go crazy expensive at all. My primary cost, in total, $350 USD or £270ish. Most of the time when people are recommending mad expensive upgrade sets it means they don’t really understand how to tech correctly: most stock parts can be adjusted, modified, and work just fine or better than “upgrades”, since they’re actually designed to fit the specific RIF you’re working on.

Thank you it's a labour of love, I am about to start my Colonial Marine version upgrade to full GBB when all the components arrive!

Hi here is my Snow Wolf AEG Weyland Yutani Commando M41A Pulse Rifle, the upgrades are mostly cosmetic to represent the Alien 3 screen used prop, the Thompson and dummy grenade launcher will both be converted to full GBB in the near future! My next project is to convert my Snow Wolf Colonial Marines to full GBB and I will hopefully start a build and upgrade thread if someone please can tell me in which section I should start the thread??

In order to have influence, I suspect you need one of two things: either a large base of active members, or an irrelevantly sized base with connections to the industry. For example, I participate on several other airsoft forums that don’t have a large amount of active members. However, we have a few folks who are connected in one way or another to the industry. One of the admins for the chief American airsoft forum is a distributor for MOS (E&L and Arcturus). On the AirsoftSniper forums there are several members who design, produce, and sell custom upgrade parts and even complete custom projects.

Has anyone had any joy upgrading and running a TM Vsr-one? I know that out of the box they are running around 1 joule and you'd obviously was it at around 2 joules to make it competitive. I love the look of them but I remember that upgrading them not as simple as it is with a vsr10. I'm just interested to hear any successes/failures people have had with these. I have done a search on here but there seems to be very little on them. Please point me to the right place if this has already been discussed. Cheers!

After all it is airsoft..... 😉👍

Hi all, So I have a KTW winchester rifle and would like to change the spring for a bit more power. Has anyone changed a spring in one of these? I can't seem to find any info about these. I'm thinking I'm going to have to get a spring made up? Thanks

Hi folks, I know this guy (Pete I think?) is a member on here and I hope he sees this! Only ordered from him once so far through his website (www.ak2m4.co.uk) but despatch was very fast and well packed, cannot fault his service. Admittedly a few things seem to be out of stock on his website but he carries plenty of alternatives and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend him. I'll be placing another order for quite a few internal parts late next week (gear set, cylinder, cylinder head, piston head, shims, air nozzle - need to replace the gear set but decided to upgrade a few other bits at the same time) and don't doubt that the order will arrive promptly and safe. I'm looking forward to trying out the new toys when they arrive and I'll try and remember to add to this with how well everything performs. Phil

I bought a Trident SPR after I had to return my Specna Arms because of faults. I love the gun, it is very sturdy but the UK version is a bit underpowered out of the box. It was only shooting at about 0.85J which seems standard for the UK version. I had Negative Airsoft upgrade it a bit and now it shoots at 1.06 - 1.08 with very good grouping. The gun is good out of the box, so you don’t have to upgrade it if you don’t want to but you know we always chase that little bit more 😉

First, play with the RIF and see what aspect makes you feel insufficient on the playing field. Do you feel like you need more range? Better accuracy? Faster rate of fire? Snappier trigger? Once you know what you want, here's what I'd suggest doing... The first two performance boosts I'd suggest are a good quality LiPo battery (11.1v or 7.4v, with 11.1v being much faster), for gains in ROF and trigger response if that's what you want. Heavier, higher quality BBs will net you gains in range and accuracy, as well as being able to cut through wind and foliage better. As the others have set, motor and hop rubber are your first and most effective parts upgrades. These two upgrades cover range/accuracy, and trigger response/rate of fire. You can pair them with a LiPo battery (11.1v or 7.4v, with the faster being 11.1v), and heavier, high quality BBs for greater gains in both departments. I would personally suggest doing just the hop rubber first, as you'll be able to observe the actual performance change. G&G hop units are already really good, and they fit maple leaf hop rubbers great. I would suggest using a maple leaf rubber in between 50 and 60 degrees (look for Macaron or Super Macaron), and replace the original soft nub with a harder piece of plastic or even a piece of 6mm tubing laid flat in the hop window. You can polish the stock barrel with some metal polish and a drill (use a rag on the tip of a cleaning rod), and get a decent performance boost. I'd suggest doing this before buying any upgrade barrel. Upgrade barrels are really a minor upgrade--a decent polished and clean stock barrel (as long as it's not bent or messed up on the inside) will give you 80+% of the performance of any upgrade barrel, and sometimes more. For example, the stock barrels from Krytac and Arcturus are just as good or better than any upgrade barrel I've used (Prometheus, Lambda, etc). Not all stock barrels are created equal, but there is no advantage of having steel over brass in most circumstances. I would also suggest wrapping the barrel in tape, and likewise stabilizing the hop unit with tape or plastic shims. These are extremely cheap and easy accuracy upgrades that I do to pretty much every build. For a motor, I would suggest ordering a 25K neodymium motor from ChiHai Shenzhen, which should cost around $30. Either that, or take whatever suggestion the more local members of the forum give you. There's not too many horrible options for a motor, and they know local retailers better than I do. 😁

I was thinking of getting the Specna Arms RRA SA E07 Edge and upgrading it with a standard Warhead motor (30k with 11.1v) and either 16:1 or 13:1 ratio gears. I assume I would also need to short stroke it. Would this be possible? Thanks in advance!

I have a front-wired G&G M4 Carbine Combat Machine that I bought new. Recently, I added a prometheus 6.03 inner barrel (380mm) and it ran just fine afterwards (I also put in the prometheus 50 degree/purple bucking). However, after adding an M120 spring, it will not fire with a mag inserted. Without a mag, it dry fires just fine. When the mag is inserted, it sounds like the battery is dying and immediately jams before getting anything down range. Any ideas on what it could be?