Sitting Duck

How old are you - reason being you could just get ukara'd then buy 30th in UK £150 & then a cyma.032 for £100 from TWG and have your cake n eat it up to you though, weigh up all options but ukara will help you get best bargains out there

re-read post exactly what do you seek - new whole front or just lose the fixed front sight to allow Eotech etc.... with back up flip sights

current ebay stuff.... second hand - dunno if polymer or metal so best ask before bidding: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flip-Up-Sights-/281741080725?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item419913b895 new plastic probably but ok at a push from China: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magpul-Gen-2-MBUS-Rear-Flip-Sight-Black-Back-Up-Sights-BUIS-2-pcs-Set-/321789888789?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4aec2c0915 ok they are plastic but if they don't wobble too much they will do ok, gun is hardly all metal and doubt if your range is really gonna require ultra pin point accuracy

Remove what you can is best advice rather than mask up as Happy said.... decide if to strip paint with Fairy Power Spray but this doesn't remove thick multiple coats of 2-tone as easily as some say often it will need a good overnight soaking and toothbrush away - repeat etc..... Time consuming and still might not get every single spec off Or you could respray the parts but maybe sand off or at least key the surface prior to a couple of coats of Krylon Plastic parts I think Plastikote is perhaps a little better than Krylon but not sprayed metal stuff so can't say for sure I have said WTF and just went nuts sanding away a thick blue coat off a plastic stock & grip to reveal a plastic wood effect underneath was as smooth as a baby's ar$e - still time consuming but yes it did have a sort of mahogany effect on it when done the ideal sultion might be a bit of Fairy Power, brush off the worst, quick sanding to take off any large specs left in exposed areas then spray up a good few thin coats to avoid runs etc.... That way the paint will adhere well, plus if it does wear off or become battleworn there is less chance of blue showing through which always looks f*cking horrid imho That is my take on it and probably what I would consider to make a nice job it time consuming but I am a bit of perfectionist sometimes my own worst critic Have a think and maybe test a small area to see how you might wanna go

1 - LandWarrior, AirsoftWorld, Zero One, Pro Airsoft, Fire Support, Surplus Store, JD Airsoft, AirSoft Zone, PatrolBase none of the above have " BB " in them so that is always a good sign 2 - 48yrs old and I also work nights though normal week patterns but done this for last 20+ years There are places that run mid-week evening games though - might help if enlighten us to your location 3 - Point I was making is that you don't HAVE TO spend more money to get a good decent gun. But it is your money and your gun so yes spend & buy whatever you like A summary rather than make a #4 point.... You have spent £800+ on stuff but not actually skirmished yet ? A bit of a spree to just shoot a few targets and have something nice in a wall collection But like I said it is your money so who am I to judge - which I wasn't tbh I was actually offering some advice for next time..... No I am not an expert - I've only been into this for just over a year - March '14 to be exact but bought loads of crap myself and won't even list my collection where I have become so hooked and it has become my latest obsession, I'm not just obsessed but told sometimes I'm posessed by my new hobbies I enjoy the mechanical side of it - perhaps more than actually getting out there as often as I should and there is no way I'd ever get round to using all my stuff myself - much like a woman's shoe/bag collection Everybody has their own take or views on here, some higher end or lower end Some more serious others just a mess about with toy guns letting off steam Some are fantastic players - some with tactical first hand experience - others ex COD players getting off their ar$es Haven't a clue where I fit in in all this, I'd say I'm unique though most just call me odd but this ain't about me, hopefully your M14 is going to feed better now that was the real issue I haven't got one like I said but hope your gun is sorted or running better now

Not got a M14 so never bothered to chime in but my 2 or 3 cents on lessons learnt etc..... 1 - Dont buy anything from them clowns, yes there is the rare ok offer but their customer support sucks They really offer crap service and make a fortune out of misleading - and that is being kind misleading people and offer no support what so ever I will leave it there as this post would grow to epic proportions even by my standards of waffling 2 - You are working nights 12hr shifts so I am gonna go out on a limb and assume you are 18+ as you already have purchased a 2-tone (gotta be 18+ even for 2-tone purchase) So with you being of the legal age get your ar$e out there to get ukara and stop pi$$balling about with paint 3 - This is just my take on the matter and I know it is not the exact same gun and isn't real wood or not IT IS A TOY GUN - WHO IS GONNA KNOW OR CARE IN THE END...... http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-032-wooden-style-cm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 get spring - ohh no forget that it is @ 340fps anyway but the do offer free spring downgrade for other "hot" guns £100 - and stop giving chubby liar more money, but we all made them errors but please stop shopping at that clown's shop "Real Wood" version: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/cm-032c-real-wood?from=listing&campaign-id=21

New G&G has the trigger module - not classic old skool trigger n switch basically it is a module with micro switch & trigger housed as one module All sounds great but like cars - gone are days you replace that bit or spring/clip thingy nope it is a whole new module or you gotta buy spares from main dealers mosfet's haven't been G&G's strong point in the past but hopefully they have improved the donkey work is done with the fet wired in for you & the new CM receiver looks lovely and the rear stock looks damn nice for crane stock too However it is still a polymer CM @ £185 and when you approach £200 there are other guns to consider £150 30th GC16 is excellent value for money from airsoft world, you should be able to buy the kong wizard for £10 plop it in as a plug n play module for the moment on 7.4v lipo, then you or get a techy to hard wire it in when you service or upgrade a few bits inside later on.... (the Kong is a FULL £35 mosfet mofo unlike avacado burst wizard) £160 - full metal M4 what ever burst bollox you want without bespoke modern trigger crap But yes the CM SR range looks nice - just that I'm old skool Your money - your gun, Krytac everybody is rating them as good step up from starter guns not got one yet - so can't say.... but good to see a new gun getting lots of good reviews - assures you to know the extra cash is well spent

7.4v lipo or 9.9v life is your options looks like a large chunky 8.4v nimah was in there so you should get a nice capacity in there My advice is to suss out exact dimensions of a sort, heck make up a cardboard device that fits inside then take off say 5mm off each dimension and that should be your absolute max dimension to look out for fleabay, component shop or hobbyking are some of your options it should be quite cost effective as the "block" batteries in 7.4v lipo's are often much cheaper than crane/nunchuk airsoft batteries Turnigy Zippy Vapex all good names to look out for reckon around £20 to £25 will get you a mofo battery and charger - might even get 2 mofo batteries perhaps reckon 7.4v & 25c rating would see ya right Life batteries are a bit more juice but limited range compared to shed loads of lipo's out there

Just they don't allow 2-tone or clear guns etc.... Which always struck me as a little picky or a way to boost rentals I guess If I wanna turn up with a vivid 2-tone nearly all bright orange and catch my opponents eye then that is down to me if I wish to appear on their visual radar as cannon fodder yup it could give away my teams stealthy assault or attempted flank but I'd never follow a team mate all cammo'd if I was wearing bright vivid colours, shouting loud gobby remarks like "IT'S OK IT LOOKS CLEAR OVER HEAR", with a loud looking gun Any other site, they don't seem to give a crap about 2-tones so it kinda struck me as "wow, ffs chaps it is still a toy gun whatever the colour"

Not got one but muchas gracias for taking time and sharing your findings yup careful thought out mag modding for some AK's I have had to do and tape on mag or in magwell - jeez the 416 needed a bit of that stuff for any mag I had to work cheers again for sharing your findings

As long as you have done AoE she will be fine if you don't and you start taking the pi$$ that initial pick up tooth just snaps off the back very very very quickly well twice on 9.9v life & 11.1v it happened before the aoe penny dropped OOOOOoooooohhhhhhh is that why they keep going on about it yup learning by my many many numerous mistakes - still learning btw you got new motor in there, see what she is shooting at ROF wise and decide how fast you go the gears if battery can cycle them will give you 36% max increase the 11.1v will give you up to 50% increase on stock gears atm..... so based upon a bit of common sense maths work out your requested rof and decide how fast n how you get there sir

OH FOR FFS DON'T DO THAT !!!!!!! seriously - soz about shouting your rate goes up by 36% then you boost it by 50% on 11.1v and a very good chance of BANG !!!!!! try it on 7.4v then gauge what your rof is..... eg: say 13rps stock, could go to 14 on deans or 15 if fet n rewired then up a third to 20rps on 7.4v with 13:1 gears which then will give you an expected 30rps if using a 11.1v (note the 50% boost from 2 cell 7.4v to 3 cell 11.1v) at 30rps on STOCK MOTOR is getting risky if you got a neodym in there that 30 could jump up from 33 to 45-ish (10 to 50%) though to get to 45 you would have to be using very thick wire but 35 maybe near 40 "could" happen I stripped a 2 tooth short stroke piston with m120-ish spring pushing 11.1v to 45rps and it stripped straight away 30 is really taking liberties on full stroke m100 spring in my book so I really really really advise anyone to please please test out your gun on say a 7.4v 25c lipo even a block type battery just taped on there to test it out first I stand by my most of my maths - it can vary a bit depending on motor and wiring/connectors but if we take a stock gun and work out maths again slightly different way..... stock gun = 13 rps on 7.4v lipo - chuck in 11.1v lipo (mosfet is good idea but anyway) = 20rps 20 rps then 10% to 15% for deans/wire/fet = 23 aprox 23 x 1.36 due to 13:1 gears puts you at 31.28 - take that back to 30 due to 13rps x 1.5 from lipo is actually 19.5 but you get idea and like I said this is worked out on a decent stock motor - not a neodym nutter But even armed with this history of breaking pistons n crap I still end up pushing it or taking the pi$$ - only now I expect it to break a bit or understand the risks a bit more

For what little it is worth...... Gear ratios are never quite what they say on them and often the 18 is a 18.65 or 12 is really 12.65:1 ratio 12:1 & 13:1 gears are little too much imho - they increase your fire rate by 35 to nearly 50% but it is more work for motors to run through especially from start due to fact 16:1 are in fact more like 17.25:1 they offer less improvement that first thought (often an expect 10-12% turns out to be 8% improvement not much but still mugged) for that reason I think a 15:1 - which I haven't seen around or a 14:1 set might offer a balance of about 28%-ish for performance wise but still it seems to common or popular options are stock 18:1, 16:1 or 13:1 (or must have 12:1's for nutter speedsters trying to over compensate for something) End of the day if stock gears are good ones then very often leave them in there along with a few other stock bits like piston new bits to help seals like ptfe, or new cylinder head, o-ring and o-ring nozzle plus aoe is what will help possible wire in fet - use deans and perhaps good wire and when ready a oomphy neodym motor will sing no problem Gun doesn't go too fast to crap out too quick and owner is happy for very little work/money in the end Yes 13:1's on higher speed setup's but a bit more work involved getting that to operate well is needed faster n faster on m100 spring and she double cylce's etc.... risk of PE may get closer plus gun will wear more 13:1 nutter builds when you start to push it will deffo need short stroking past 30rps thicker wire mofo batteries etc............... on stock stuff/gears you can get to 20rps on 7.4v and 30 on 11.1v but as I say at 25 to 30rps more homework is needed the above figures are on fast torquey neodym motors - these can be anywhere from 10% to 50% over stock motor's performance so don't flame me if you don't hit the exact figures I quote coz builds are very different and I always use thickest wire and deans/fet etc....

Another possible consideration and correct me if I am wrong here.... On your G&G it probably was just a "service" or replacement of a part or two However you have replaced the stock gears with another set and so it could be shimmed a little incorrectly Specifically the bevel could be too low and when the motor is wound in the pinion is forced hard against bushing/bearing This creates a great strain on its own when cycling and is not good for your whole box/motor This was my mistake (along with others) when I was having real grief on my first few gearboxes A GENERAL RULE OF THUMB - note general rule of thumb not a gospel to follow but along the line of what you can expect.... middle/Spur gear a thin shim behind it if using bushings - medium shin behind it if using bearings bevel gear - hardly anything on top of it - thinnest possible shim maybe 2 or thin medium shim if using bearings BUT OFTEN VERY LITTLE ON TOP OF BEVEL GEAR Bearings will need more shims than bushings btw as they are thicker sector - shimmed as needed rough guide on hand closing box you should see sideways movement on all gears of aprox 1mm when tightening box up - I'd say nip screws using just finger and thumb on screwdriver to avoid going nutz and stripping threads when box is tightened up this 1mm play will reduce to 0.5mm - aprox I always hold the box and 2 out of 3 bearings - shake box and should hear the 3rd gear click as it moves from shaking repeat on all gears to hear and check by pushing through with screwdriver but sometimes you don't notice it vividly moving always the spin test on gears too - just I like to hear the play sound so to speak numerous things or tips I do like backing off a screw at a tiny bit at time to pinpoint any tightness on which gear All of this means f*ck all if the gears are not "stacked" or arranged correct height to each other Oh there's loads of little things to say/do & test and thie above is not a complete guide or list on how to shim but it is very important not to shim bevel gear too low or even slightly low

7.2v or 8.4v nimah ??? I've run 8.4 & 9.6v nimah on a shs high speed but that was with stock 18:1 gears in a G&G your ratio/speed has increased by about 36% more work though (18.65 divided by 13.65 = 1.366) so yes that could be pushing it, not gonna say it is like having a m130 spring in there but reckon about a m120 easpecially at start standstill another matter might be if piston is bottoming out on spring guide or full spring compression but this would normally happen is bearing spring guide and bearing piston/spacers ott and some springs with thicker wire/coils won't compress as much as other thinner/weaker springs daft thing but spring is fitted correct way round - it can make a difference charge up battery or see what you got for more grunt but careful you don't blow fuse just a quick test or two to see if she will cycle with a bit more juice what motor in there - neodym ??? if motor has the oomphhhhh, and no mechanical lock up on piston travel/spring compression then most likely weak or not fully charged nimah could be issue As you already did a lovely to work on G&G I will assume it wasn't down to bad fitting of them components but all the same that may need to be considered if its the v3/g36 type box in your ump - at least you can test it a little easier than with the G&G v2 putting it back in receiver etc....

I say consider getting another hop and assembling the new unit so it is an easy swap over - especially for first timers often - myself included the used bucking doesn't fair well on removal and can tear well my first one did but it could of been torn or started to tear causing issues in the first place but was shagged when I stripped the hop In an ideal world owner would have over time aquired a reasonable "spares box" of stuff to try and fall back on I also wasn't impressed with madbull tbb when I quickly tried one - kept jamming but that could of been incorrectly fitted hop or catching on hop lip doubt it coz same hop/bucking on a zci tbb fed perfectly when swapped over and not tried the 510mm madbull since but wasn't impressed with a brand often over rated to say the least..... Also in relation to cost of madbull and a new bucking - another decent hop is worth considering imho..... YES there is a chance that another hop unit may actually be worse than the stock hop - but there is a chance also it could be better (some hops can feed better or seal better as well as worse - nozzles may operate/seal better/worse etc.....) As Tom Jones would say - "it's not unusual.... ooommm chah oooommm" - soz back on topic it's not unusal to end up having that bit paired with that bit along with that original bit you started with The end result could end up being old barrel, old bucking washed in soapy water, new nub and new hop coz old hop was crap You buy another hop in my mind, a couple of decent cheap rubbers with nubs (bet you lose one of them sods if not careful) get the other unit assembled and gain a bit of experience - with a spare bucking on hand just in case Then a swap over and test - might be miles better or might be $hit if not gone according to plan..... No biggy - you got stock working unit to fall back on..... Oooh that looks all crappy, quick clean of stock unit as is and she fires like new it could/can happen but cleaning barrel is very first you should do....... or ooooh hang on a sec - that bump looks a bit pi$$ed as you look down into hop, minor twist and bucking aligns - dooohhhhhh The stock hop unit might not be holding its setting very well and winding off, yes some shims can help but them threads can strip easy if ya go too mad and then you could be boned if no spare a day or two before game day soz for ultra long waffle but it would be lovely and perfect if problems dissappeared straight away when you fit a new part the reality is that new parts can also also cause more problems if fitted incorrectly or not installed with care...... Very very often some high end parts do not solve the issues or show great improvements that noobs like me think they will If you got a cyma ak then chances are it will have a good solid metal hop unit and will be fine But I often will consider getting a spare of most things I have - just in case or to try and see before I dive in thinking the very usual - yup it has to be this or that causing the problem/issue...... new barrel + new bucking, me personally would consider getting another hop unit practice or get new complete barrel unit assembled - if you have a nightmare at this point your gun still operates atm rather than spend the evening looking for nub or last ripped bucking if you are really clumsy etc........ if new unit is fitted well then test and it probably will be a great improvement over old worn barrel/hop/bucking If not - at least you have a number of options to consider to try out and a spare of everything like I mentioned.... new barrel, new bucking - 2 could be wise sometimes madbull sell buckings in pairs plus a new hop could be worth considering if you don't have one to hand - could be a faulty hop - unlikely but just saying That is what I personally would do or consider having to hand before I steam in this is just my own personal take on the matter though but as Lozart said about me working with crappy guns - they often could benefit from a number of better parts too

hops are different to each gun type and sometimes certain makes of gun can be bespoke eg: ICS M4 has its own M4 hop & rubber bucking but usually most guns are TM compatible and an AK hop will do fine in AK's & regular M4 hop will work in most M4's well usually they do,, but in practice sometimes they need a slap or in some cases a punch your tactical AK will very very likely be ok with the usual cyma or shs AK hopup unit & general aeg bucking (you don't say exact make of AK but could likely to be cyma or jg or a rebadge of these brands) some cheapo nasty JBBG guns and even some really horrible nasty cyma/jg/double eagle ak's are made with weird parts 901c has a bespoke hop & barrel in it - poxy thing but would think a regular run of the mill ak hop will be inside your gun - so cyma or shs one should be ok if possible go for a metal one for not much more than a plastic hop unit softer 50/60 degree bucking and watch some tutorials apply a little grease carefully to assist in fitting bucking/barrel to unit

Leave those alone ffs Expensive $hit mags You wanna consider these mofos http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-140rd-m4-mid-caps-box-set-10-grey-m16-magazine-10476-p.asp Order a nut or bolt and you get 10% off order plus shipping is free - my favourite

I am a bit trigger happy but Reckon 2 x 1300's will deffo see ya OK Or you need to check your sights or eyesight

4 pins is 11.1v 3 pins is 7.4v So yeah just need adapter

Is that a 11.1v balance port on charger Looks like it might be 4 pins n 4th pin hidden by angle of shot

loads of cheap chargers for lipo's but most go for the B6 type with faster charge options Usually lipo chargers will require a 12 to 18v seperate psu to operate the charging unit with an amperage of 1a to 5a output at a push you can scrape by with very cheap lipo chargers and longer recharge times I have 2 smart (might have a 3rd somewhere) & 3 cheap - bloody cheap like under £7:50 chargers for lipo's and just leave them trickling away, some say very low recharge might not good for lipo's but so far all still ok you can pay £30+ for a top of range lipo charger or £3 from hongkong pile of crap trickle 750mah lipo charger Some are 240v like B3 AC but watch out for clones - got one of those B3's and was buzzing like f*ck yeah right chucked that in the bin like cheap iphone chargers you gotta be very careful on cheapo nasty fake $hit that might pose a risk of fire that is charger not the lipo itself, coz lipo's are so dangerous that IS terrorists have started to use them (no I am being silly as per usual - not had a lipo explode on me - yet) just saying there are cheap & very cheap stuff out there but you need to be careful if buying on the cheap or buy from a good UK retailer to be sure of getting a safe charger that conforms to our safety standards

AEG wise - 3 no question on that one think its a 330 barrel length, front wired but solid handguard with a few mini rails to bolt on for grip etc removable front sight to leave clean top rail for scope if you so wish I'd buy another black one as its metal and make a full metal CM18 or some other project but I am trying to cut down CM18 is nice too but the mid cap mag is crap plus don't like the CM18's stock flash hider G36 type with thread for quick fit silencer I changed my CM18's flash hider straight away and left mag in box - but 2-tone black/tan looks sexy the first 2 - hmmm not for me The BOT is still a polymer one with basic fet and over the £150 mark I think for a polymer gun SRL - not sure how good the idea of bespoke components are from newer G&G's arriving now I haven't bought any higher end G&G's so can't comment just how good value the more expensive guns are I can only comment on the cheaper starter guns as I have/had quite a few of them This is the area that G&G shift loads n loads n loads of them coz they are such good value alas many G&G CM starters are common as muck and everybody has one or owned/used one in the past DMR - can't help ya on that issue I like running around, sweating loads, and squealing like a girl as I shot to f*ck