Sitting Duck

says 330 to 335 on Z1 & Airsoftworld like most G&G's look on some US sites and it might be smidge over for US market Most G&G's come out at 330 +/- 10fps from UK Retailers if you are ultra paranoid - get the seller to chrono it before you buy and ensure your site limit is within its fps most are 350 max outdoors but some indoor cqb like The Mall - Reading is 328 to 340 absolute max edit just beaten to the US market/sites as they do run a bit higher than UK's site limits Is it a decent aeg - hmmmmmmmm, dunno if I would buy a "regular" looking £300 G&G M4 might go for a 416 type or something else like keymod or other front end Good brand in the starter range of M4's - no question but £250/300 i'd probably look at others - maybe Krytac ??? But then I like the cheaper stuff to mess about with G&G are a good make especially at starter to intermediate level - think most will agree on that £300 could get you a very nice gun but everybody will have their own favourites/choices I'd be inclined to get a 30th for £150 & spend £50 on tweaks doing it myself or a Krytac off the shelf ready to go nutz with if in stock - if I wasn't into messing with stuff

Some motors run warmer than others and everybody has their own definitions of warm to hot etc..... The deans + lipo has made your gun a bit more snappy with motor being supplied with a lot more instant juice it should be fine tbh - you ain't going ultra nutz at all motor getting very warm very quickly could be motor height and/or bevel shimmed too low (or a badly shimmed motor at factory - had one of those cheapo neodym motors getting really hot quick) of course you will feel the motor getting hotter now - but I can't say how hot coz I ain't holding it also shooting 30 quick semi shots will get warmer than 60 on full auto coz motor is working so much harder from still wearing thick gloves or fit a thicker motor grip - lol shooting out on field is different to testing a gun on rapid semi spamming in ya garden. it "should" be ok coz it ain't really going nutz which on an PBB box you shouldn't really be pushing crazy rof imho up to 20rps is maybe the fastest I'd take a PBB box with a stock m100 spring as them boxes can crack a bit more than normal ones if really pushed you can only try it - but it ain't going mental in my book at all - the gun should handle and be lipo ready 25c is moderate - some nutters won't use anything below 40c but 25 is what I use and works well enough for me have a couple of 20c & 30c but 25c is fine and not silly burst rate in my book

that was a simple quick reply from me

G&P & Big Dragon M120's are $hitty ferrite motors - avoid at ALL costs do not be tempted to buy 4 of them even if they are on offer like some twat did..... not much better than a G&G stock red ferrite - sure ICS ferrites are faster than most others m140's neodym but a bit slow - torquey but not much quicker M160's - gearbox breaking mofo's - buy nothing else but ensure your box is up to it My own dissapointment - taking them BB site clowns at their word - metal gearbox my feathery ar$e oh and last weekend was gonna get a grenade kill on my smug little $hit son held up good n proper poxy dynatex timed bfg had been primed for 6 months+ and failed to detonate - just stuck when thrown little sod kept owning loads of us with his osh-i-boom - uhm think that was my osh-i-boom if I remember and it was my one chance to pi$$ on his firework - epic failure (as per usual)

LIPO's are dogz nutz and good makes you have there a little puff is fine but never try to pop the lipo like some tw@at me did http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/25943-g-g-aeg-cm18-mod1-for-first-aeg/page-3#entry208609 and check my status for why you really shouldn't f*ck with lipo's if they look iffy http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/statuses/user/9344-sitting-duck/?status_id=7231 But trust me a little puff is fine - the cheapo snidey crap one was getting more puffier each time you got very good makes there so they should last you ages just don't f*ck with them if they look iffy - seriously it f*cking burst into flames (almost as quick as I $hit myself) yeah - DO NOT stick a pin/pen thinking to release a bit of trapped air.... punctured cell - hisss hisss fizzz fizzz - whoooaahhhhh f*ck that dropping on carpet reaction WWWHHHOOOOOOFFFFF - bursting into flames - fire alarms going off - lol funny now but I got scorched carpet - paranoid missus and me owning up what a c@nt I am

you don't have all the internal wiring to watch out for and ensure it ain't pinched or popped out like v2's or the wire passing behind motor to keep low & in place on v2's V3's are much more test firendly - even rewire for mosfet after box is closed up the 2 part trigger is what took me a few attempts to put back together on my first AK but like most things there is a knack you soon suss out

Sigh - at a guess coz not that sad to run it through sound/wave tester like audio city thingy majig..... 33rps to 35 max on Single Sector Gear - not a dsg coz barrel is way past 250mm limit (they say up to 300mm barrels but imho it is 250 as in ak74, g36c & short M4 dsg builds) gears are GOOD 12:1 or 13:1 most likely, unlikely to be using Riot's 10:1 set @ $100 or £100 a set SHS Gen 4 or ak2m4's core 13:1 are doing well in some of mine good decent neodym motor & being yanks running 11.1v most likely you can get close to this 30 to 33 on 7.4v if you use mofo 16 to 14awg wire and a bloody good torquey fast motor Lonex A1 or a BD M160 - maybe SHS torque is a cheaper easy to get option YOU WILL NEED A MOSFET EVEN ON 7.4V - if done with M120 & SS two teeth a normal fet will be fine in fact the box must be built with ultra mega care at the very very best you can possible build to - really proper sorbothane, AoE or piston will just snap clean off - it WILL btw a decent robust piston with 3 to 7 full metal teeth - all metal is optional but another area you will must do: Shortstroke 2 teeth off back of piston and fit a m115 or m120 spring or Pre Engagement WILL happen on 30+ rps builds 2 teeth off the START or first couple teeth of sector gear - NOT BACK OFF SECTOR (back off piston's metal teeth - must have 1 metal tooth min left on piston and start of sector - take it off the back and tappet timing goes pear shape) would add delay clip to sector gear to assist with feeding - fit it correct way round, shs metal delay is what I use They built that using bearings which helps it run freely but I would not use bearings on sector gear as this turns slower under stain of piston LCT I think use bearings on bevel & spur but solid bushings on sector me - I have started to test out bushings mostly especially on sector but have used 8mm bearings on top/left side of gearbox for bevel/spur checking that runs quite smooth & free but bearings can/will fail before bushings so shimmimg must be bang on to prolong the life In fact the whole box is gonna have a shorter life than a 20rps box generally speaking as it is have the life knocked out of it more Another factor even with box running very very well - you will probably find a number of your mags may not feed very well most likely very good high caps like Lonex or good mid caps like ASG will be required to feed at 30+rps You WILL need to shortstroke & use a slightly higher spring best gearbox build you can ever possibly do and have good decent mags 20 to 24rps is max you can go with m100 full stroke - or she double cylcles and would need AB fet but 30rps on m100 you will very likely get PE or be on the absolute limit sailing so close to the wind parts wise it is about £50+ for gears & motor, then add in some more for piston/spring and fet (bearing spring guide etc....) getting near £75 to £100 I reckon plus a weekend of careful assembly test on 7.4v 25c min lipo and see how fast she cycles first - eg 30-ish can be achieved on 11.1v expect nearly 50% more but going past 35rps - deffo 40rps you will need to shortstroke a 3rd tooth off I feel this may drop fps a bit but a m120 & SS 2 teeth could still be putting you a smidge over 350fps if seals are perfect Not that tricky but it must be done very well to get 30+ rps and last a while

Safety First - I ain't watched the vid yet but that is the last bit of Safe-Zone as you head out to the combat zone/tunnels I made a couple of returns to Safe Zone to respawn with mag still in my gun and the head Marshal was on the ball He could of shot my ar$e but eventually the penny started to drop..... It is an easy mistake for many people to make - you can enter the Safe-Zone 2 ways though usually depending on game area you normally enter from the path into the tunnels rather than from the outer tunnels perimeter but as it is darker than most sites and all so new & different - lame excuse I know but often respawning is done from Safe Zone rather than Dead Zone in combat zone - so guess I failed to get into habit of keep taking out mag & clearing gun (as I suck at this airsoft this is & died loads n loads maybe more reminding needed than the pro tunnel rats) I would keep eye-pro on at all times when returning to respawn - only remove for lunchtime when all guns are left safe inside One time there was a battle going on where the outer perimeter or other side of Safe Zone was used I needed to pop out outside to squeeze my lemon but made sure my mask was on when I started to make my way outside It is FULL-ON, so ensure YOU are taking YOUR safety very very seriously as I put my hands I could of f*cked up they gave me a stern warning for mag in but they ripped me a new one when I did a quick dry fire - deffo no mag in there but gun's trigger was starting to stick - still firing when trigger released - think tight contacts binding switch when trigger pulled really tight well I forgot and stated to pull trigger - true safe dry firing but the head marshal was a LOT LOT MORE STERN as he bollocked me (rightly so too - silly twat me looking back at it - the safe zone is that and nearly all sites state not even dry firing should be done) reality is a short tiny couple of shots of dry firing you often hear, though usually at my local if I test a gun on dry fire it is done at my car - so my interior or windscreen would be at risk if my gun wasn't fully clear above all we rely on all players and ourselves to always try to play safe and put this safety before anything else Epsom are far from perfect on chrono maybe but I will say the marshal's - head Marshal was deffo on the ball in Safe Zone (could of light me up - and think he was gonna when I dry fired but that was my very very last warning I felt so I deffo complied afterwards)

Opening your first few gearboxes is a piece of pi$$ IT IS CLOSING THE BASTID'S UP THAT IS THE PROBLEM !!!! Kudos to Samurai - one or two 10-15mm round "earth" or "neodym" magnets under box where AR latch goes that REALLY helps to keep the AR latch in place so you only need 3 hands - not 4 now don't work on trigger as that ain't magnetic but at least you got one less thing to jump out Now all that is left is spring, yup sounds easy, couple of "dry runs" without spring seeing how it best closes up usually cylinder head side lowering into position first etc..... Then the spring with a nice fitting screwdriver or something helping to pivot & hold spring guide downwards If cylinder has port then this aligned with piston runners to ensure piston stays put and not jump off the guides Oh there is loads of stuff you suss out and pick up tips & techniques of your own along the way too M100 or M105 springs are a breeze, m115/120 you can feel the extra resistance when inserting springs Best one was the DSG with a m150 or M160 mofo in it - f*ck me that was "fun" on ya own no really - about 3 times I "thought" I had finally done it up only to find something had just popped out at last final closing of box we are talking about 15 attempts - maybe more and was really close to giving up a couple of times hands now covered in grease - even though they was dry & clean, slipping eveywhere, trying to get some grip/leverage to compress spring but the trigger/spring wants to jump right out the moment you even fart or breathe near it f*ckety f*ckety f*ck f*ck f*ck Yeah - the whole dsg stuff is way way over rated imho - slight shortstroke m120 with a 13 or 14:1 gear set is much easier to build and that is the easy bit - it is all the checking and sanding/file and checking that it all fits and works properly that takes the time (imho depending on work involved and how meticulous you are a box should take most of weekend to strip, rebuild totally and assemble/test) yup you can do it very quick if just replacing one or two parts - but a full box and getting everything as good as you can get it will take more than a day - often you will need to step back - look for something or a break to de-stress or rethink any issues etc.... Some crap just don't wanna go in & work quite how you expect it - some boxes/gears just sound $hit no matter how well you shim & reshim Well that is my take on them - but finding me taking more care/time is producing much better results than my first few builds Oh and v3 - at least you test the damn box very quickly, seeing the bevel gear's position shifting as you adjust motor height getting it as quiet and schreech free as possible - heck you can even loosen the motor frame/cage and slightly pull it a smidge to get angle as close to perfection as possible V2's not quite as "test" friendly before you find out how crap that build sounds

Fair enough - but always thought it was one of the normal guidelines of ukara helps to prevent sales/deliveries to kiddies or un-ukara'd players sure you have to bang in your email & postcode of reg. addy on ukara self check well I was lead to think it has to go to your normal regged addy but maybe some sellers may not stick to that guideline to the letter (it is them that is selling it so its their decision I guess if they feel it is legit and above board) anybody want a RIF - £50 + cost of rifle sent to any addy of your choice - pm me for more details..... (not really - f*ck off kiddies)

it is just one of the rules that it has to bought by and sent to the same addy on the ukara database (hence it is important to update any change of address as/when you move later on) is just one of them rules/regulations stuff - commercial place of work some may accept as legit addy if they know you others might deem any addy as no chance sun-dance

uhm - just wondering though isn't the different addy kind of down to sender putting on the non-ukara addy unless Royal Mail are psychic or are stalking you to know where you work or did it have both addy's on parcel - that would be asking for confusion Still - no real biggy, the important thing is that an issue arose and then you was able to contact them - and they looked into it and got back to you its when things don't quite go according to plan - it is then you find out how good a company's customer service is glad it got sorted - nice mofo gun btw

When is the Christening ??

YES IF YOU CAN SOLDER Even just running 7.4v - if you got a neodym motor & lipo for the sake of contacts it should be done coz you will be pushing more juice through it if using existing wire - just make sure it is tidy where the tiny pin passes through box on "normal" V2's Dunno about the jumbo V2's layout - but on conventional V2's keep it tidy behind trigger switch or you might short some wires when you put it back together but yes all them little tweaks do add up to better response in the end - well in my book they seem to do A nice recent purchase was a 14mm CCW tap & die set - high quality engineering from a precision toolmaker (some backstreet pi$$ pot guy with a lathe in the slums of China no doubt via fleabay) Had a few cheap silencers that the threads were a little iffy on all off them - not anymore redid a couple and now they screw up all the way instead of getting stuck halfway down the outer barrel's thread very happy chappy ebay item # 160637665606 - brilliant mofo & ebay item # 160637665354 (not used this yet btw) oh and 2 out of 4 mofo motors arrived as well for smashing hell out of my next gearboxes plus some more dean connectors, stuff for spares box etc......

Welcome m8 and yes we all regret not getting into playing peew peew with toy guns sooner.... Sort of a bit COD-like except one shot kill And us older players quickly realise we ain't gonna mantle and dolphin dive through windows dropping to prone quite as easy as we first thought like them games Truth be told I just sweat buckets in mid winter thinking about rushing around. Keeps ya fit or knackered in my case Great fun whatever level you play at

I play for fun and leave my ego at home If other players/marshals did the same but kept common sense safety aspect then we wouldn't need to bitch so much Well yeah I'd still bitch but that is coz I'm miserable git

Really tough one tbh.... Pistols and bfg's - you can go for yonks without using 'em Others use them all the time.... Suppose you could say that about a backup AEG You might hardly ever need one if your luck holds On the other hand say get 2 x M4's Long n small / stubby for wood/cqb Or AK 47 & 74 if you prefer Best of both worlds having a big n small gun That take same mags m $hit Plus have the option to switch to what suits the game or site you are playing at the time

plus on here we are beholden to no single store so we can freely say buy this from there this is a good shop - don't buy that from z1 get if from ak2m4 or lwa or Gunfire etc....... (without having our bottoms slapped - yes please beat me hard ya bitch) only downside to this place - ME

Majority ain't that bad in airsoft The few that are ego tripping ar$eholes I tend to think they are converted paintball marshals

cheapo FAST type helmet rather than a pith m88 helmet you don't absolutely NEED one until you bash/scrape ya noggin then you NEEDED one !!!! yes you can get by with something like a baseball cap/beanie but believe it or not a mediocre helmet and some cheapo knee pads does help avoid a few bashsed nuts n knees (especially if scrambling about in woodland or smashing your head on a door frame in cqb) edit - bashed nuts = head btw, for the other type you need a groin box and a little "chat" with your opponent if they keep shooting your own personal bb's cheapo snidey FAST type about £30 fleabay UK selleror about £20 upwards from EU or overseas and wait a while do tend to give you that "pro" image but only if you got some other attire as well mind you for cqb at places like the Mall I don't think anything beats a guy in suit dark shades/goggles and packing 2 x pistols (either he's extreme bad-ass or just doesn't give a toss about pain when you look that feckin' hard)

I'm at work atm so I suggest watch if not sure how to separate the two bits of receiver Doesn't invalidate any warranty coz you ain't opening gearbox or motor, besides if you get a really bad jam or change barrel hop bucking you gotta do this anyway. Look at a video to double check if not sure Separate 2 halves and you will see the piston in port window and understand a lot more what I'm trying to say in my duc-ollox language It is hard to see a black nozzle in a grey hop whilst peering down into magwell even when you understand it a bit. Red SHS nozzle is easier to see at first glance than the stock black nozzle. So consider separating the receivers

be nice if it was quick change spring but alas not on most G&G's (think that is another one of their new ideas to implement on newer models coming out soon) most first time openers spring change/box opening doesn't always go to plan (mine deffo didn't I will honestly admit - well a few boxes didn't that is for sure) The spring will be fine soonish - just might need a tiny bit of help either precock or a few bits of tape to push hop away weird thing is though you may get 349.999 at chrono in morning fire a few hundred shots/bursts or dry fire through it and due to dunno a bit of friction/heat maybe the cylinder may warm a little and expand a smidge of a smidge - I have found just recently and after a blast on bb hosing - the fps is bit less at chrono after this spraying I ain't studied this crap very much - believe it or not I ain't that sad but after a while I guess the cylinder may cool a little and higher fps/seal may return to its higher figure

This forum doesn't have the bandwidth for me to even start listing all my mistakes that I'm STILL making BUT the main mistake I think was why the hell didn't I get into this much much sooner ? (say 5+ years ago and I might not be quite so crap at it - well that is just a theory but I'd still be $hite no doubt)

I was going by the normal way the gearbox cycles after a shot is fired and the piston releases on semi the motor runs on a smidge even when cut off engages and usually starts to just pull nozzle back a little often sector has just started to get near engaging piston and cam starts to retract tappet - so nozzle is starting to part away from hop I looked at sector's cam for tappet and on a full stock untrimmed tappet plate the nozzle stays fully back as the piston compresses at about halfway on sector gear the cam starts to release tappet plate so nozzle now starts to shoot forward to load bb & seal against hop (ready for piston releasing very soon after) The easiest thing is to remove magazine and pop the front gearbox pin then you may see the cylinder port window in the gearbox (if not and stock guns being what they are - not so brilliant seals - rotate cylinder until its port is visable) Now what you want to do is inch the gun until the the o-ring on piston passes the rear of cylinder window which should be aprox 66% to say 75% on the cm18's porting for its 275mm barrel you will then be able to see through the single hole or port in the cylinder where the bastid piston is rather than try and "guess" its position by nozzle and gauge if spring is being compressed which is not as easy as it may sound even if you fully understand how the gearbox itself cycles the front pin on G&G's just pops back but not out - it is just designed to stay in there by a spring retainer on pin once popped the top receiver will slide fowards from main lower receiver you may notice it might catch slightly on very top of gearbox case but you can just slightly lift upwards at that point to clear just do it a little slowly and it just comes away real easy on G&G's look up on google/youtube - not coz it is that tricky or hard but often like my first description it can be difficult to understand anybody let alone all the crap I type on a regular day to day basis as long as you can see the port/window on the blue cylinder in gearbox it will be a LOT easier to understand and precock the spring or failing that spring compression thingy - you will see where to place a few bits of tape at front of gearbox to reduce the good seal and in effect lose a tiny bit of seal to bring down fps with a slightly less than perfect seal to bucking/hop hopefully some of this makes sense but soz in advance if you are not fluent in talking duck - even I don't understand most of my crap pop the top receiver and you know for sure where piston/spring is at is the best easiest way

alas majority of stuff is just knocked out to keep costs down to remain competitive... even if fet's fail - the donkey work of wiring in has been done already to replace fet with better bells n whistles one if needed The other thing I'd like to see is like a slightly better build in most guns Can't be THAT hard, to correct AoE, better head & nozzle ffs so gun performs and functions that bit better Not talking about a mega time consuming custom bespoke build where hours are taken to check/assemble But surely - stop calling me Shirley Surely - they could add in a o-ring nozzle, better piston o-ring & better head with AoE nearly done or corrected a bit better than stock just using a few better parts probably only a few dollars each part would save the owner having to get it done at some point yes a little more cost - but a better performing gun would sell itself even if it cost say $10 to $15 more until then they will just be knocking out the same old same old stuff that may need finishing off a little Echo1 & Krytac might be using a little more care - but wtf don't the main companies do this anyway ?