Sitting Duck

Well to be fair... I said 16rps on std gears could be 16~18rps if deans & rewire etc... with SHS motor so wasn't far out I've done 2 x hot CM.517's with a G&G Blue (25k ferrite) 13:1 SS 3 teeth to get 19.5rps @ 335fps & I think many have done a SHS HT with 13:1, maybe a bit of SS to get a 24rps 340fps so how the heck you got 27.5rps at around 325fps (1 joule mark aprox on 0.20's) is amazing no I'll rephrase that... FUCKING AMAZING The shimming must be more perfect that Roger's (Shut Up Gears) The amp draw must be low like 13 amps or less Basically everything must be THAT close to perfection - you got ultra lucky fortunate in how it all went Everything must have meshed perfectly & I mean fucking perfectly... The pinion to bevel 101% bang on, plus rest of gears bang on, the box all smooth inside, no burrs The motor angle in grip in precise alignment, the motor tab connectors as tight as fuck - near soldered on What wire did you use - Alpha Eco or something or fucking wire for an electric shower or meter tails I know Alpha 16awg is good & thin/stiff as fuck thin but tough insulation wall - but jeeeez to squeeze out what is probably 101% potential efficiency out of a build is very fortunate indeed (just shows how much std wire can choke a gun's performance) and you are are still on solid bushings, not even cross bushings filled with grease let alone bearings or ceramics - so to get 27.5rps is mental I mean you could have got mis-labelled 12:1's is about the only thing I can think of to push the rof beyond a 24~25rps best expectation of 13:1 build on 7.4v and the battery is perhaps better than 20c rating to supply that much energy too The results obtained are way beyond a GOOD BUILD - 24rps would have been expected at say 340fps maybe 25/26 tops on 325fps - but that is going some on a SS build if you got 27.5rps, on a full stroke with a modest 7.4v 20c LiPo, even 8.4v max fresh off of charge well fuck me backwards... YOU WALK ON WATER SIR is all I can add and ffs LEAVE IT ALONE I would NOT OPEN IT just to cut spring or SS to bring down the power, park it overnight instead as it likely is pre-cocking from over spin, so I'd just leave it parked to fade or bed in the spring a smidge (might get even a smidge more rps once it fades, but time the motor gets some carbon build up it will cancel out) nah leave it alone, not saying you got "lucky" but certainly you was very fortunate it went together so damn well Deffo walk on water on this build if/when you do open it up again - though as said leave it alone for now ffs but if it goes tits up and you need to crack her open... test if the gears are 13:1 or 12:1's perhaps mark bevel with pencil line, see how many turns of bevel it takes to fully rotate sector 1 revolution (multiply bevel turns by 3 = actual ratio of gear set) if 4.25 or less = 12.75:1 or 12:1 gear set if 4.50 there abouts = 13.5:1 or 13:1 gear set it's probably 13:1 and you got very lucky fortunate, but just wondering if Pete got some mis-labelled 12:1's (like it does happen at times with the Chinese lottery etc...) FUCKING VERY VERY VERY VERY WELL DONE SQUIRE indeeeeeeeed

it "sounds" like it "could" be the grip pulling the motor/box out of whack bit like some M4 pistol grips being too large - works with box+grip testing but when you fit them into receiver the larger grip hits the receiver 1mm or 2mm so a gap appears between box & grip, when tightened it starts fighting/pulling it out of whack sorta this crap... https://youtu.be/WSV8vn9veXs and seen Luke (I think) add shims between grip & box to take pad out the area so grip just mates with box without hitting the receiver so hard that it pulls shit out of whack when tightened... (not as proper fix I'll add but when he was getting screechy shit issues on say troublesome VFC's for example and just trying to diagnose or try to diagnose where it all goes out of whack) Now in your case the top of the AK grip(s) have lugs to locate into receiver so filing stuff down would be a PITA working around those lugs etc... and no real need to perhaps... You could try to plop in say m4 washer - 4mm ID & say 6~8mm OD between grip & motor cage to take up any potential slack, so grip isn't being forced into receiver so much it knocks out the alignment This washer could be 1mm or 1.5mm thick of metal or maybe rubber heck an old THIN cylinder head pad could be worth a try, might need trimming down at edges probably 1mm thick should do it, pad out the space between inside of grip & bottom of motor cage Tighten up and should/could do the trick - worth a go I reckon Also check motor cage is not loose, sometimes they don't fit perfectly and others there is a bit of potential play, even wobble when tightened and despite the cage snug & angle correct, the wonky/gappy grip can try to pull the cage a bit out of sync So a bit of a rubber washer might take up the slack between grip/cage so it can tighten without it going squiffy

buffer tube bolt into spring guide issue... I'd bet there is a gap between receiver & rear of box that as you tighten it up it starts to try to pull together on a plastic receiver it will flex a little as gap closes but on metal receiver it can't, so it fights and attempts to lift gearbox front up slightly but the pistol grip is saying hold up and any true alignment starts to throw out inc motor angle so amps rise & potential lock up may return place a rubber washer at back of box, like a cylinder head washer but not so thick something like 1mm, maybe 1.5mm tops to take up gap/slack so box doesn't get pulled backwards as you tighten the buffer tube bolt up (you could use almost anything - bit of card/plastic, but rubber will squish a bit & fairly durable) the new replacement box is a bit different as you know and I reckon there is bit more play at back, that throws shit out as you tighten it all up plop something in the back and it should stay aligned better as you bolt it all up yes it is a bodge, but takes up the play to stop shifting out of alignment especially on metal receivers like I said some polymer receivers will flex/give slightly before the box is pulled out of whack Rule #1 - change as little as possible - use std box & pistol grips if possible (alter too much and look forward to more "potential problems") Rule #2 - check as much as possible (binding piston) Rule #3 - go back to basics if all else fails (nowt wrong with this and blame poxy TM comp. BS) Rules #4 or# 5 - send to tech or launch down garden Rule #6 if it ain't broke... no hang on that should be Rule #1 maybe ah fuck the rules, fuck these poxy toy bastid guns hope you narrow down some these issues & niggles - feel ya pain btw

Well if/when you strip it down for mosfet, check/smooth out any burrs inside according to Luke/Neg Airsoft if you got the std spring guide (non bearing) instead of bearing one... https://gunfire.com/en/products/qd-spring-slide-for-ar15-specna-arms-edge-tm-replicas-1152224920.html then if you got any spare bearing & races from bearing piston heads... soak the fucker in hot water, after a while, slide a decent knife or thin screwdriver down between and push off the blue sleeve fit the race-bearing-race, some bearings/race can be a tight fit & others are just perfect tap the blue sleeve back on - viola bearing spring guide from some old bits from your spares box other than that, looks pretty decent inside, especially if you got metal rack piston too... 13:1's could go straight in (not re-enforced at back restricting the faster gears install) metal rack would be a touch if you want to SS Gotta admit, though the carbine handguard is maybe not my first choice for the money you get quite a good bang for your bucks with decent internals (after a deburr & regrease) plus quick change spring (bearing spring guide from your spares box) and for under £100 even... https://www.onlyairsoft.com/product/specna-arms-rra-sa-e18-edge-carbine-replica-chaos-grey/

Well you don't want 11.1v AND SHS 13:1 - just 11.1v as a cheap stop gap you don't HAVE TO install the mosfet right away either on a std motor (with tabs) you could just install a sb160 schotky diode across the cheap std motor with tabs to reduce arcing for a while... NB - DO NOT WRAP ONE AROUND A SHS, G&G MOTOR as the two screws connect/short through the mounting plate under end bell 101% of the time (but are insulated with plastic washers/sometime plastic screws etc... so just stopped from a short) YOU PLACE A DIODE IN A SHS TYPE MOTOR YOU CAN SHORT THE TWO TERMINALS (in a cheap std "2 tab" motor the poles never contacts the same section at same time) What they do - stop the spikes from motor/inductive load... loads of stuff out there but a before/after... https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=260 & go to say 5:10 to see nearly no spark with diode https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=310 (that spark is same arcing at trolley/switch in gun) So ICS know their stuff for reducing arcing - though wtf didn't they do this by default ??? However only for cheap 2 tab motors, even G&G cheapo 18k motors shouldn't have this fitted (coz shorting at the lock ring under end bell with added diode on SHS/G&G type motors) What this translates to - you can drop a diode in, run on 11.1v on shit motor and reduce the arcing thus not needing to install a mosfet straight away, to run on higher juice to squeeze out more zest NB does NOT eliminate arcing at switch like mosfet, but seriously reduce arcing from spikes for say 20p (on cheapo 2 tab motors) to run on higher juice perfect for cheapo £100 gun, you want to add a bit more zest with least fucking about out of the box (later on when it busts, needs a tweak then open & do the upgrades/mosfet etc...)

charging wise I'll agree AEG build wise, some bespoke micro switch gearbox stuff not thought through in other areas some stuff is OK & this where stickers/branding gets costly as usually it's just oem SHS/RA with a Nuprol sticker costing an extra £10 or so Are conspiracy theorists completely mad or just ahead of the curve...

I have trained to also use my toes so now have 20 pinkies to type with Chernobyl was caused by a Faulty Nuprol Lipo according to Alex Jones

pretty much same ol' same ol' from me I guess would have thought most would know the gist by now SHS HT will fit the bill in many 7.4v cases on 18:1 or 13:1 depending on what you are aiming for or just push 11.1v on lame stock motors - eg: AK with a large battery space stock like 28a or M4 with spacious fixed stock £30 for new motor is a fair bit of an investment but worth it in numerous cases though at the same time, you can get similar results (11.1v) for little outlay if possible just weigh up the options and take a calculated stab at it and do it the best you can yes should have said SHS HT (without the maths & faff) but just showing my workings out to explain my reasoning I know I waffle but try to simplify it jeez some of them calculations on gear ratios & relation to motor speeds & final rps is like a friggin' Oxford Maths paper at times, when in many cases all that geek shit is way OTT gear ratio = bevel gear rotations to complete cycle x 3 motor rpm / gear ratio (x10) = rough ball park figure of expected rps on 7.4v (x1.55 for expected rps on 11.1v) no calculator or pen/paper required though my fingers hurt at times & I go through keyboards every couple of months

If you are on std gears then likely the usual SHS HT motor from Pete roughly a 28~30k motor, decent build & bang for buck etc... 30,000 / 18.65 = 1.6 (x10 = expected rps) maybe add on 15% for deans/fet & 320fps looking at 18rps aprox doubt if you would hit 20rps unless it was a faster motor of say 33~35k & ultra thick wire & bit of luck If you was using 13:1 gears then a 25k motor will do you for 18rps possible a 22tpa motor & 13:1 gears, issue is the tpa & rpm figures of motors are like airsoft meters (them labels vary shitloads & so called ratings a very rough ballpark figure) The green RA motor I found to be slightly slightly slower than an old original SHS HT say Green RA was like 28k & SHS was 30k but could be due to just sod's law in batch/spec (slightly thinner/thicker wire in windings, efficiency in shimming of motor, magnet strength etc..) hence the SHS/RA is imho a 28k~30k motor on std gears pulling about 11~12 amp draw say for 16~18rps 7.4v this is give or take a round or two coz no two builds are the exact same & all that plus lipo burst/capacity & fuck knows what else will give slightly different results you could SS too on that barrel even but won't change much, just a slight bit of semi snap maybe though SS & m110 should lower any slight overspin, so not need AB at 18rps The old where you start & where do you stop I guess If it has a basic mosfet or the ASR version I'd probably just drop the SHS HT in for 7.4v (or just use a compact 11.1v on lame std motor for 20rps) if it had to be opened (breaks/low compression/performance) I might SS 2 or 3 teeth at some point The SHS HT is more of a balanced motor at 16tpa - ish & ish being the word the ZCI HT is more worthy of the HT name at 22tpa you just don't want a high speed motor, so a SHS HT or there abouts should do you

Mrs Duck chatting to her friend...

I fell off the chair at this one...

I'm not gonna let this mandatory mask crap ruin my summer...

OK maybe naked airsoft could be a bit horrific on the eyes for most chubby cheaters... not calling your hits - shorts & no shirt for next round or leave the site (lady cheaters - you can sit the next game out in the buff)

it is about right imho... 350fps max on 0.20 or whatever the 1.14j bollox coupled with a mature attitude of not lighting people up at point blank range 350fps, many are say 328fps on a rough average overall (300~349.9999) if below 300 then I'd think about giving it the once over at aiming for Mall's 340 limit On the field at mid range the power/impact drops considerably sure there was a vid showing a 450 sniper, with a chrono say 30~40m away showing how the fps dropped So on that note if you get hit by a few bb's it will lightly sting a bit x a few bb's so it is part of the sport if you get a few hits - though overkill is a cunt On cqb the single shot rule should apply & normally the body is the largest target so "should" be within the pain threshold unless you are a real wimp (the really bitch is getting shot in the back with a tight top on - that can sting at times (but man up ffs, or play Nerf/Fortnight) Also it is about not having a wanker hose machine & some respect for people you are shooting eg: a gun at around 20rps, even if you are still on auto (should be on semi if shooting cqb) should be able to control any real crazy overkill - though if play is still at mid range & you are rushed/flanked then you could be taken by surprise and shoot at a guy close range on auto/3 rnd burst etc.... hopefully an experienced player will not panic and hold trigger to light up the flanker BUT at times shit happens to all of us and welts happen - it is just the stuff airsoft is know for think the limit is about right, providing wankers don't hose others at close range it isn't the gun's fault or the limits - but the twat holding the gun imho if twats don't call their hits - I didn't feel it they keep saying... Right you have a choice - leave or next round you are playing naked (pretty sure you will be calling your hits then)

probably a lightweight pistol so I can run faster nothing in particular, looking at few but need to be aware of the risks I just saw this meme again recently & could totally relate to it - that's all (soz for being an ass & derailing it a bit, but many might relate to it too)

The dilemma I face...

Linkage issue, likely one tooth out or wear On a reg V3 there is the tab that locks the trigger solid The iffy semi/auto is a common problem on AK's Where linkage is worn or not quite correctly located (It "could" be one tooth out on rear linkage Or something is binding when box is refitted into receiver impeding its operation) Investigate further, likely something stupid out of whack on reassembly

shimming is a pita that you get better at the more you do it (hopefully) there's loads of tutorials how to do it & some good/bad a bit loose is better than bit tight yes you kinda start with bevel to pinion but also attention to how the sector is shimmed (roughly half/half spaced but attention it operates but no rubbing on COL or too high sector cam rubs on box casing) plus attention to how the spur shims to both sector (swirl pattern if too close) and attention to ensure plenty of bevel's 10 teeth mesh to spur etc... (if bevel shimmed high & spur really low, little of 10 teeth mesh and stuff flies off or crunches under stress or mild lock up so shimming is all about the spacing of gears/drivechain and how all the components engage as close to perfection as possible (not always very easy to achieve) IF you was on bushings I'd say a ROUGH BALL PARK... Bevel - 0.2mm shim on top, no biggy about underneath really not a massive biggy on JUST this gear underneath coz motor pinion ensures it ain't going far (if you got a small shim left at end then take up some of slack if you wish to) Spur/Step gear 0.2mm UNDERNEATH (whatever is required on top to take up most of slack) Sector gear 0.25mm to 0.3mm roughly so it sits a whisker higher than spur (hopefully avoiding swirls from gears touching in rotation) whatever on top to take up slack, should sit about half way spaced in box for sector gear as you got bearings it is likely you might have a bit more lateral play than on bushings so add 0.05 to 0.10mm to these ref points THE ABOVE IS ONLY A VERY ROUGH STARTING POINT, you have to adjust shit accordingly as each box & gears/build vary loads check motor height with bevel in top half of box on v3's a bit of shrill can be reduced by loosening the motor cage and slightly shifting it, tilting the motor angle slightly to mesh smoother nozzle not returning - uhmm it doesn't always return 100% anyway in most instances the nozzle begins to retract before the piston starts to retract & often the gun's cycle is slowed/stopped by piston retraction or rather the tension on spring building and slowing the motor which means theif nozzle often is at least partial retracted or even starting to release if running quick (and on guns with plenty pre-cock the nozzle has returned already in preparation of firing/piston releasing) so this nozzle fretting is not a big issue in "most" new tech concerns obviously if it isn't operating or jamming then that is another issue but nozzle position is not (usually) a big concern select linkage and stuff - yeah they are a bit of wank safety is that triangle tab on gearbox that jams the 2 part trigger the linkage is a git to get correct if the rear teeth are not aligned correctly (and stay in place as you try to drop the whole thing back in receiver) also clean & lightly grease and parts of selector/linkage checking they glide as smooth as silk if any burrs, smooth them out and ensure it all glides/operates smooth as silk stiff operation on selector mechanism shit will just mean more wear in linkage/selector components sooner massive tip - take photo's on your phone - LOTS OF PHOTO's then you will see how shit goes back together in particular if a certain spring or component goes face down or face up eg: a trigger trolley spring (you don't have one on etu) on reg setup v2 especially can make a difference which way round the body of spring is placed or its orientation (in the way the spring sits to clear the groove in the underside of tappet plate etc...) on selector mechanism at rear - mark it with a pencil to ensure the marks re-align on assembly or other shit like that - just a couple of examples you takea pic or three will greatly assist in reassembly

Don't know if you tried this but wonder if it is the reset to default option or if it is a "Whoa fuck me - what ya doing bro" warning... But the Perun ETU plays Michael Jackson - Smooth Criminal (Eddie are you OK) if you fuck about with it... WTF ???

TBH you got an option to replace the ETU mosfet unit G&G £36 aprox if you can find one or perun £50 inc ship from bravo/bullseye country sport in NI (good seller) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Airsoft-Upgrade-Mosfet-Kit-For-G-G-ETU-System-AB-LiPo-Ready-Burst-bbs/133377231128?hash=item1f0de70918:g:vv0AAOSwhQhehetA OR contact Luke/Negative Airsoft perhaps You could buy a V3 box, hopefully an AK with AK nozzle, trigger, selector and hope it fits OK some v3's don't always simply slide into all other guns as is, at times a bit of modding required (some will gladly take a std Cyma v3 & others will take a JG one but might need modding or vice versa) those are two very common/cheap v3's out there, but there "might" be some minor fitting niggles to overcome hence if you got a sound box that is compatible - stick with that and have it rebuilt (Luke or some other respected tech) They can overhaul it and no doubt if old it is need of service and doubt if compression/seals are that great Chuck in a basic mosfet, maybe the tiny perun https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Micro-Airsoft-Mosfet/164224757298?epid=25036277200&hash=item263c8eee32:g:zngAAOSwP7ZdHKsv So you can run on 11.1v, new col, trigger switch & some other bits n bobs give it the once over and getting firing all dandy yes labour & shipping issue, but atm you got a £300 when new gun that is wanked so spending a bit of money WISELY is not such a bad thing you can go nutz or Luke will advise you on the best cost effective course of action according to your budget Or you can attempt to have a go yourself if you feel up to it, but will require some rewiring/soldering or clean it up, slap some grease in there & buy the perun etu those are the 3 options I would consider (than buy a box that shoots too hot on an imported cyma v3 box & hope it fits first time)

Pity G&G don't use them instead of Dairy Lea ETU units, especially on their higher price guns nice to know it works well, but wish they was cheaper, even £50 inc shipping is a bit much I'm being a bit miffed, but mainly coz the G&G unit is so shit (some people have been lucky and works fine still even on 7.4v, but there are a lot of issues with ETU's) Paying a bit above other similar guns, to then have to be faced with replacing something that is so defective spending around £50 or so, or at least a tenner converting it back to basic trigger plus time/cost is a wank G&G - lovely looking guns, but jeez some of their ideas & innovations have made matters worse not more reliable G&G R&D dept: ETU design & testing... The most annoying thing is that you can't just plug a basic mosfet in due to the 4 thin wire lead, one is power, then a signal to each of 3 switches (power, trigger, col switch & slector switch at back of trigger unit) so the fucking thing is only for the ETU & can't drop a basic mosfet or warfet or owt in there so you are faced with another Dairy Lea G&G ETU mosfet, luckily the Perun option but still not cheap or rip the whole lot out and start again old school real PITA these fancy bespoke units - especially with G&G's reliability (ultra sarcasm)

Yup ETU 1 is red and the ETU unit is fucking wanked wanked wanked Had a FFR2 A2, changed motor and it blew the ETU - WTF ??? Ripped it all out, old school trigger switch, 13:1 etc... So me personally that is what I would do or there is the option of Perun unit but it ain't ultra cheap.... https://www.taiwangun.com/en/wires-lasers/g-g-etu-upgrade-kit-perun?from=listing&campaign-id=19 Yeah it is very tricky to install (sarcasm) but supposed to work properly http://perunairsoft.pl/products/gg-etu-upgrade-kit/ but me personally I'd rip it all out and go back to traditional old school trigger coz G&G will still be a bit Dairy Lea, Perun won't leave you much change out of say £60 with shipping and for that price, I could spend on 13:1, 25~30k motor, steel rack piston & cheap basic or diy (non burst bollox) mosfet (you got 22k motor so forget the 25/30k motor, maybe 16:1 gears, 13:1's might be a bit too quick unless you short stroke on 11.1v a couple of bushings under spur & maybe bevel, basic mosfet, normal switch, steel rack piston (shs blue perhaps & cyma piston head or something that provides good seal, run on 11.1v sorted) Well that is likely what I'd do but to each their own - but fuck G&G's ETU bollox imho PS - looking at your pic, you might need a new COL, as it looks a bit different to reg v3 COL (the lug that pops the reg trigger trolley looks to be set back to activate the micro switch on ETU trigger board) see that wedge bit on right of arm, looks different to the G&G one in your ETU box so a steel SHS COL might be needed to go old school, I noticed when I checked your pic - just saying Before you do owt, test the board is completely dead by just having motor out of box change fuse, but likely it is fucked mine went a bit wanky, kept blowing fuses with motor out of box and got hot yeah fuck that shitty unit right off I decided

Bit confused here.... It "sounds" like a possible COL but gun is new-ish or recently purchased (but then 2 round burst on auto sounds odd) Ahhh but it is an ETU fuck pig so that would explain a burst on auto (but that would be 3rnd or potential 5rnd burst option on ETU2 units) Now we know the common AK selector issue going from semi/auto/semi etc... But this TWO round burst is a bit odd - should be 3 (and/or 5 round burst) on ETU I would have thought but still get single shot semi & then 3 (or 5 option on blue etu2) or just auto on ergh auto First of all - what battery are you using ETU's can/do play up on 7.4v so best to run on 9.6v or 11.1v, (11.1v is best perhaps) (normally, iffy etu's simply refuse to work on lower 7.4v, but wondering if lower volts causing an issue) Secondly - RTFM (Read The Fucking Manual) for info about setting/changing the burst mode COULD be an iffy ETU - the main unit near battery, as they are made from Dairy Lea Turn off/disable the burst mode (RTFM) and start again so semi & auto operates correctly In that sort of gun, I would have just used 11.1v with 18k motor to get you near say 20rps and with the 22k you should be on or just a whisker over 20rps It appears to be crane stock AK so assume the battery goes under the hood/dust cover which this battery MIGHT be about your limit - but YOU need to check it will fit (inc wires) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html?queryID=c2ca5915ed20ee36fc43e6fc49de517d&objectID=31045&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products RTFM, check your battery is OK, and give us a bit more info... it might be a moody selector, but the etu causes more issues in some guns than it is supposed to solve or if gun is still in warranty contact retailer (hmm good luck with that) but I'm a little confused with 2rnd burst in both modes so if possible read manual, turn off burst etc... and update us with a bit more info perhaps