Sitting Duck

Soz - fair do's on that one then.... a m8 of mine replaced his fence after some storm damage with quality panels - not cheapy Wickes/B&Q budget crap he was away one weekend, his chav neighbour painted his chav side with dark green slopping it all on with a thick brush m8 comes back to see a load of green streaky runs on his own side coz of some thicko chav lets say my m8 was beyond livid to say the least coz of the chav twat next door spray painting is best or get somebody to help ya do it like this bloke did Sund da Flor, Paint Da Fence, Wax on - Wax off Daniel sun

could get the other fence panels painted first though

I see what you are saying and tend to agree with some/most of it 101% I use a mosfet in most and was really referring to a full 1k auto burst in mainly one go generating more heat/wear/friction plus the sustained impact at head of box in one go like a resonance hammering away - this is my theory but think sustained impact may increase wear/risk dsg's don't stand up well but they are operating at crazy speeds but all the same they are firing many bb's in one burst so hammering your ammo or going through 1k quickly (depends on how you play/use a hose machine but was talking in general that dumping bb's quickly like dsg's do don't last forever) Yes semi does create wear also - didn't think of trigger contacts the stress of stationary semi fire compared to continuous auto is greater and places stress on wire/fet/trigger contacts I see now. plus the trolley stop gets annoyingly pecked away at by trolley returning on semi which can break on some poor boxes (v2's titchy square lugs mainly as v3's have industrial trigger stop by design) Think best way to ensure gun lasts with minimal wear is to just hang it on wall I guess Fact of the matter is - these poxy guns will crap out the more you use them in the end So no matter how you play/fire - just use them and enjoy them whilst they are running well

OMG - the gun is shagged now plop a small o-ring on and you can squish it into place some have a tiny grub screw to lock it into exact place for any autistic players out there (I'm one of them btw) actually I have wondered does a flash hider alter the effects of the bb exiting at all eg: bare barrel - no flash or suppressor just bare outer barrel vs a usual flash hider very likely absolutely jack $hit difference but just wondered if it had any slight difference in aerodynamics or crap as bb hits the air outside the barrel - does it smoothly allow it to start its flight outside the barrel - or does it make f*ck all difference most likely reason being I have a couple of guns with no flash hider on at all - yeah I think way way too much

can do 4k+ on electric box mag in one go - if gearbox would survive (I wouldn't chance it - not that stupid or reached the walk on water level of teching yet - still merely paddling without falling over head first)

fired off very quickly 1k full auto generates more heat/friction and the impact or resonance of hitting the cylinder head is worse lots of semi spamming in short time places stress on mosfet/wiring - well definately mosfet as semi spamming is a test that many fake/clone mosfets just die doing. Over time the trigger stop in gearbox can break but that is over long time sustained semi use and box would have to fairly crap to begin with brill armoury I think does a 1min 30rps test = 1,800 shots fired in 60 secs to shut some polarstar user up on his vid (dry firing) but a badly built shimmed box will not like that due to extra stress from poor build - his builds are very finely assembled but yeah a 1k continuous full auto test is very likely to create more wear/heat than say 1k on semi I would say

gas pistol no worky without gas filled mag gas blowback or non blowback - they work without having to recock each shot on Glock's - the G18 has the full auto function the G17 or G19 does not have full auto on WE blowback models The cheapy m92 or mk23's are semi only but do not need any cocking at all to fire each shot ya pull trigger - the hammer hits the valve giving a squirt of gas to propel a bb out the hammer/trigger reset ready to fire another bb - so you can fire all 22-25 bb's one after another with just ya little pinky no recocking needed at all gun empty - refill mag with bb's again - should get 2 mags of bb's ( 2 x 22-25 bb's use) from a filling of gas - maybe more on non blowbacks

cheers proffink, I didn't have a feckin' scooby doo what that all meant until you cleared that up.... I just pull the trigger = one action maybe if my aim was kinda on target - thought that was the 2nd action squealing like a girl as I beat a hasty retreat - yup that's my 3rd action

ASG / Armalite's 85 or 120rnd mid caps: They are very popular midcaps and work in most guns (M4's I mean - taking the pi$$ if you expect them to work in AK's) 10 x 120/140 rnd mags for about £50 is worth a shot easy to flogg on in case your gun doesn't like them Ok grey or tan plastic mags but wtf do ya expect for the price do work very well for most people - but like many mags there is always a few guns that may not like them though think in general most M4's will love them

Hmmmm uhmmm erghhh yeah I guess it can be done but tbh if when/brushes wear out - that is when you raid the old lame stock ferrite motors (always wondered why brushes had such thin copper strands carrying the current to them but truth be told the whole of the motor's terminal is live anyway but did wonder if a thicker copper lead/strand would help conduct more juice to actual brushes - after running the wires in 16awg with as few joins as possible to reduce any possible resistance) if people wanna go nutz they can recut the communator after a couple of brush replacements rebuild frankentorque motors with neodym magnets: http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/gearbox-parts/custom-n52-aeg-motor-magnets.html nice basic non-ab mosfets btw: http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html anyway back on track - yes suppose you could rebuild and customise/repair motors but tbh - often I'd just buy another £20 to £30 neodym and be done with it I spend way too much time tinkering than getting out and playing

this might be better: https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/y-p-gg-105-beretta-92-replica-gas-pistol-in-blue.html mags are gg-104 - gun pictured is in fact a 104 the 105 has a small rail underneath they are SRC's rebranded as Stti, HFC or others like Y&P The important thing before buying stuff is check availability of spare mags... No point buying a gun and can't get another mag if you lose/break the mag, seals can leak but can be repaired (o-ring) mags are gg-104 and go in both the gg-104 & 105 there is a co2 version - gc-105, exact same gun just comes with a co2 bulb mag instead of green gas mag all interchangeable so in effect you can buy gc-105 & gg-104 and swap the mags about blah blah blah blah blah blah but spare gg-104 mags can be bought reasonably cheap and do exist - rare for cheap guns but they do crop up now n then: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-pistol-magazines/m9-magazine-stti if you had ukara: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-4/m92f-m9-heavy-weight-gas-pistol-replica-stti?from=listing&campaign-id=19 or http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-4/m92f-m9-vertical-heavy-weight-gas-pistol-stti?from=listing&campaign-id=19 or mk23: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-4/mk23-heavy-weight-gas-pistol-stti?from=listing&campaign-id=19 or go nutz and get a WE Glock full auto for £75: http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-rifles-c38/pistols-c42/we-airsoft-europe-eu18-gen-3-tan-p3602 get what you want or can afford, check out if you can get a spare mag if possible but end of day £30 for a cheapy pistol is fine, heck I wasted a lot more at JBBG / BBGuns4Less and got little use out of it before it broke to pieces - so even a £30 pistol and bin it if it goes pear shape - it is hardly getting mugged over like many of us have been from BB sites

Often wondered if any sad bastid techy - don't look at me as I don't think of myself as a techy..... if anybody took a bunch of neodym motors, set them up into a drill for example running at xxxx rpm then checked out the juice being generated..... compile a list of various motors out there and might give a rough indication of the perfect so called balance of speed/torque ??? Faster motors will generate more heat and draw more juice Torquey motors pull trains but run slower Saddo's look into the tpa more but this alone - output can vary quite a bit depending on wire thickness used, build quality and strength of magnets So even unwinding a dead motor to check all tpa n crap it can still vary a considerable bit Hence just wondering by conducting some tests in effect using half a dozen neo motors as generators - what the output would be for a decent balance ??? Faster motors would in "theory" generate lower volts than torque motors running as generators at same rpm speed (well you would tend to think this sounds about right) Then "maybe" it might be possible to make a quick comparison out of the (gear)box of other motors Obviously real test is just to "suck it & see" but might give a rough ball-park guide to a new motor to test But you might be identify motor performance a little by how it functions in reverse operation thus arriving at a good all round figure of X volts being produced at X rpm - but this is just free running with no load but all the same could produce a variety of results depending on the range of motors tested Think I need to get out a little bit more though (or start up an Open University course of OTT Airsoft Engineering)

don't get co2 pistol, often too hot to use electric pistol like a cyma glock aep is popular but often only 200fps gas guns are normally what most use work well except in really really cold conditions mags hold about 20-25 bb's, no need to buy £75+ blowback when there are some decent non-blowbacks about often popular models are MK23 @ about £45 or GG-104 or GG-105 m92 type for around £30 (green gas req, can use propane if people really use their pistols a lot but reckon you will be ok with can of Green Gas) think you will be quite happy with its performance for a low price

lol Reason why I pushing SHS Torque is they are cheap £25-£30 and easy to get hold of They draw about 2/3 of amps of much faster motors so should get more life out of lipo for about maybe 15% lower fire rate than riskier faster motors SHS gears over zci anyday - if stock gears are knackered grab a 16:1 or 13:1 if you are rebuilding - otherwise leave it as is tbh (if it ain't broke etc....) shs blue metal rack pistons if you keep the speed sensible - they are nice and can see why so many use them (don't think about blue pistons with plastic teeth - they shred like f*ck even if kept at moderate speeds) you can get say up to 27rps on 12:1 with torque motor on just 7.4v - that is fresh off charge 7.4v 25c lipo or get just over 30-32rps if you like everything running very warm to hot and your 7.4v draining quicker so I'm tending to go a little bit easy from now on and realise it isn't the gun's performance that needs improving.... It is simply MY OWN SKILLS that still suck and 20's is plenty for many of us

tbh - a safe bet would be shs torque or some sort of balanced motor if running 11.1v faster motors will run warmer or hot - the shs torque is supposed to 16tpa like a zci balanced but pinion on shs is better reviews say if you got a Krytac - why would bother to rip out/disable the 3034 for the sake of AB, then have to place the AB fet somewhere The Go-Faster boy racer in all of us wants insane rof/response but at what cost/risk ??? I've finally come to the conclusion on just how fast it is worth pushing UK spec guns.... 30rps is about the limit you are going to hit with major work or major f*ckups - and I done a "few" Yes you can Shortstroke a bit, you can add spacers - which in effect are just putting back spring compression from the missing teeth you removed But end of the day, unless you are going to do a big amount of work you will be lucky to get much past 30rps on a "normal" UK SSG setup without overspin/pre-cocking/double firing/risk of PE etc..... Plus torquey motors and slightly faster gears will draw less amps so battery lasts longer and give off less heat Go a bit nutz if you like - but don't go completely f*cking mental or insane on our UK guns is what I have found out the hard way I'm no expert - far from it, but it is easy to go tooooooo mad is what I'm saying your piston could of just stripped on its own or stuff like that but people really need to fully understand the risk of PE Once they have got their heads around how/why it happens and how close some high rof guns can get... Then ease up a bit, replace with full metal rack for durability but now you are a little wiser to not take the pi$$ so much So will reduce risk of PE but going a little less crazy, build remains durable and lasts longer Yes any risk of PE with metal rack is dangerous as no weak point so you could smash piston gears pinion up if PE occurs but you are bit wiser so you shouldn't be going too mad so jog on chaps in ya 20's is my thought Yes I may push to 40 for a laugh now n then but if I want it to last a bit I keep it 30 or just under in my last couple of builds with torque rather than speed motors - the current draw makes quite a difference not using higher speed motors - well winter I might like my hands warmed up from hot motors but in general it is true - balanced motors is what you really should be using

Using 18:1 gears plastic gearbox and very fast motor hitting 24.8rps she started double fire now n then This was using a 7.4v 30c lipo Use a 20c lipo or accept a bit of overspin on 25c on 7.4v fresh off charge This was an AK 12 black viper project, full cylinder not sure if it was 509 or 455 barrel I put in there But keeping her low 20's got her to behave http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/23635-first-ak12-in-production/page-5 Really should start another thread though as with my replies it's turning into war n peace novel that a quick Question & Answer

AB fet's can make motors run a little warmer due to reverse polarity, some may hint at possible shortening the lifespan of motor. 25rps is not what I would expect to be regularly double firing at tbh except on say longer barrel AK where a m95 spring will get near 350fps and thus more likely to double fire more due to lighter spring End of the day, it is entirely up to people what they do with your gun, to me firing two shots regularly on semi is not wise long term as gun is cycling too fast to complete just one cycle like intended. That is a clear fact You may be getting away with it but the gun is talking to you none the less, I'm just pointing that bit out very clearly But if you are getting away firing two shots on semi, all no wear or riskyness you have no need to worry is all I can say

me personally - get a £30 or so green gas non-blow-back pistol and tear his ar$e up with quick bursts (please wear good eye-pro ffs)

A seperate mosfet is same install as all others - end of only exceptions are going to be internal types like spectre ascu or poxy ares/G&G etu malarky tbh you probably best start a new thread, me personally I'd ease up on juice if gun is often double firing firstly that is likely to getting close PE if firing 2 shots on semi very often a decent burst on auto may strip your piston or smash your gears to f*ck using an AB to counterbalance a gun not fully prepared for high rof/response is not wise imho Also depending on rof - which you do not state rof or lipo or gearing/motor etc..... plus if she is double firing I do not wish to know in case by sustained auto she craps out - 1 minor jam can cause havoc even well built high speed builds As you approach 40rps the old school trigger system can also start to show its age as the mechanical raising of cut off lever to release sprung trolley may not always work 101% flawlessly every time - there is a limit to ye olde trigger switch setup - hence the arrival of non-mechanical switching mosfet/switch units like BTC ASCU etc... for the really mental speed/response freaks out there. Yes I know plenty use AB mosfets - nowt wrong with that, but a little overspin is fine do not confuse overspin with nozzle being retracted - that is normal overspin to me is when piston is say getting piston half retracted or seen in rear box window if gearbox has window double firing though is way too much overspin - probably hitting 30rps+ most likely on 11.1v also with that much overspin that she is cycling twice by either running that fast or on a light spring you "may" still get some overspin even with AB (I said may coz depends a lot on motor's torque if it can slow/stop THAT quickly in reverse polarity against speed it was travelling at) If your gun is double firing on semi very often and you propose to remedy this by AB fet then me personally sounds like using using a m120 to get around a bad seal that fires at say 270fps on m100 spring but a mosfet is a mosfet really - 2 ways to wire in, 2 wire mosfet install = supply/signal wire usually done with dedicated wire or rewiring the gun or 1 wire install usually when using most of existing wiring in gun, 2 posi wires on same switch contact & other contact is the signal wire back to mosfet That is it really - 2 ways to wire them in - either/or depending if rewiring gun or not is why people use this or that method mainly

did you add a set of hens teeth to your basket also ??? way above my humble nooby league - but best wishes all the same sir

WTF - looks like somebody nicked/scrapped the TARDIS or something and selling a load of spare bits on fleabay The Doctor is gonna do his crunch when he finds that bastid Derek the Dalek