Sitting Duck

not quite a joke but I found it funny all the same & the guy's response is sort peew peew related...

What Helps You Decide on a Magazine? Readers Wives ??? (edit my bad wrong forum)

CQB with all that - don't need that on a CQB gun you need... kidding/sarcasm btw... as said I'm more minimalist approach though a flashlight for dark CQB would be one of my add-on's I guess

Two scopes/red dot sights ??? reminds me of... to each their own, I like FH's too but as is, minimal look with a stubby stock etc... (buffer tube battery idea was not a great idea imho but ho hum & all that)

If it's global - aka Hong Kong then the issue will be shipping & customs as per usual found some more local biodegradable ones if you are interested in saving money... https://www.realplasticfree.com/product/25274/organic-green-peas?PackID=24038 100% plastic free...

A JOKE but if this truly offends then mods please remove A Jewish/Scottish/extremely careful with his money (delete as required) man goes into the synagogue/church/place of worship (again delete what offends) and prays. "O Lord, you know the mess I'm in, please let me win the lottery." The next week, he's back again, and this time he's complaining... O Lord, didn't you hear my prayer last week? I'll lose everything I hold dear unless I win the lottery." The third week, he comes back to the synagogue/church/place of worship (again delete what offends), and this time he's really desperate. "O Lord, this is the third time I've prayed to you to let me win the lottery! I ask and I plead and still you don't help me!" Suddenly a booming voice sounds from heaven... "Benny, Benny, be reasonable. Meet me half way. Buy a lottery ticket!" sorry if this offends but I think it is a little amusing I've given options and if somebody is still offended ah bollocks, lighten up

issue if the nozzle is tooooooo long, then even on full retraction there isn't say nearly 7mm in font of nozzle in hop unit to chamber/allow a bb to slip/pass & into bucking if the nozzle is tooooooooo short it feeds better, but shorter nozzle never quite seals on bucking resulting in fps loss as lips blow from lighter sealing pressure it will probably be fine with a small tiny tolerance - you get a bit of give n take if you get feed issues then you may have to fit delay clip or file nozzle lightly you might be OK on semi or slower speeds, on faster snappier guns feed issues can occur more sometimes you got a bit of leeway & others you have finer tolerance or tappet/nozzle window (don't worry about it - I over think shit way way way too much) give it a go and suck it & see as the saying goes, you'll probably be OK if not start a new thread for more of your toy gun headaches

Cool - no wobbly nozzle then ??? coz the SHS ones I have - from Gunfire & decent Chinese sellers were a bit loose (snug in other tappets like SHS ones, but was loose in Cyma clear & recent blue tappets) had some snide lighter red/pink nozzles that were shorter & fit poorly in every tappet mind you the nozzles i got are a few years old I guess, even the SHS ones so if Pete's nozzles fit snuggly I'd be interested in grabbing a few myself POM nozzles that are too tight fit can distort if wedged into a tappet & lose good seal at o-ring it is the classic pita compatible crap - often stuff works alright but other times they don't go to plan (like the larger eyelet on Cyma switches, v3 spring guide in v2's, ultra loose as fuck cylinder head odd safety arm screw outside box, different tappet plate, possible qwirky nozzle, reinforced box for 13:1's piston head is alright once you change o-ring though) cheers for heads up - might drop Pete a line re nozzles 21.4mm ish, it is in Luke's recent video but knew that anyway - it is around 21.4~21.45 (common M4 nozzle, some use nozzles a little shorter like ICS & some others) in some boxes/builds it can a whisker too long hence measure nozzle and other stuff to compare it all but yeah Cyma's are usual 21.4mm

Be careful of them Magpul/PTS clone grip bollox I had a couple and some other aftermarket grips - they were shite motor sloppy as fuck, motor grip plate seem to shove motor way out of line with axle certain motor plates don't always fit other grips - despite looking the exact same So come to the conclusion that most often the stock grip is kept as it usually is fair good (sod changing grips to a more fancy looking one) Sounds like you might have a burr or slightly wonky gear or two also adding to stuff - sometimes a rebuild goes according to plan, almost completely flawless easy shimming other times it is nightmare after nightmare and have to go back with an ultra fine examination of everything Yes I fully understand how some motors, the way the armature is set on the motor's axle higher/lower results in some motors being nigh on the max/min limit in some guns/grips etc... also the springs on the motor tower can vary too, usually they compress right down to say just under 5mm (squishing them & measuring in a digital caliper) but others only compress down to say 6mm - so before you start the motor can be sitting 1mm higher due to a motor spring with more coils in it Then factor in the way armatures sit higher/lower on some motors and in middle of magnetic field (like SHS & ZCI) then no wonder swapping motors can result in a very different motor height setting and sometimes this can be beyond the tolerance of motor height adjustment on some guns/grips fucking nightmare it can be - I know some will be tempted to add some shims between grip/box to space the grip if motor sits way too high - well as temp fix or to see it if improves (I guess if you had 4 screw threads in box you could add 2 to left/right to slightly tilt motor angle) but really this is a temp fix/test or bodge trying to see if motor aligns a little better but really try another grip/motor/pinion/gear-set or something and go back over it all again end of the day you know by the sound if it is right or not, backed up by amp draw but you know when it sounds right - it's your own fault for being a fusspot when dealing with lapse Chinese tolerances is poxy toy guns

Motor grip/angle is my hunch but tbh it could be anything, wire either side of motor loads of slack in the gearbox opening & motor tower so it thrashes about... Motor grip OK on gearbox out of receiver ??? so the grip needs filing as it could be pulling when all fitted together to receiver ??? tried marking the box with receiver & also grip to see if grip is too large ??? something like the motor axle is not 101% inline with bevel axle, so it is running off centre or at a minor angle if motor slightly skewed I'd grab another grip if you got one, one that is pretty snug on box and doesn't have a massive motor entry point to the box so hopefully the motor is not able to thrash about once it all aligns (hopefully in sync & in line from motor axle shaft direct to the bevel axle so the bevel pinion is exactly at 6 o'clock & not offset)

End of the day - that is all that matters

) Ignore this post maths suck atm... Nope was right it is about €1:06 to the £ on TWG Travellers cheques/cash €1:11 to £ PayPal €1:09 to £, I don't remember the rate calculation being quite as low, by comparison, on many previous orders, But the prices/calculations might soon be due for review

Could be so you can apply the formula to UK prices, and from the EU States in sterling etc.... I'm just showing you the x 0.831 formula to arrive back to ex 23%. The currency fluctuation though "should" effect the inclusive, as well as the ex-VAT price for UK. It is fine though as a minor margin would allow for for discrepancies etc... Poland's tax office have the authority in certain instances take money owed from your business account if they wish to. Yup actually take the money from the account, where as UK can freeze the account, Poland can actually take money owed to them

Never hurts to simplify the workings out... My missus works out percentages the long way, I prefer to just say multiply by 1.2 for UK VAT. Or x 1.23 for Polish VAT applied, It is more of simplified method 1 sum on calculator or phone, But as said same meat different gravy & all that... End of day TWG "seem" to perhaps skimming 2%, Not full exporting it zero 23% VAT - NEARLY at say just under 21%

Or just multiply the TWG price by 0.831 (Same meat different gravy) £133.76 x 0.831 = £108.75 is what the price SHOULD be ex 23% VAT. What they have done is knocked off 21% (just under)... £110.59 x 1.21 = £133.89 (just under 21%) knocked off, so TWG are likely skimming 2% admin fees... Still cheap but not quite what it should be

TWG & GF charge or rather CHARGED you 23% Hungary is highest @ 27% blah blah blah... it is there on the invoice if go into your GF account and look at detailed invoices so now the VAT is collected & stays in UK there may be some admin/fees on top but overall the tax revenue is collected for UK purse yes others will cream off admin crap too

Your best option is either a Perun Optical V2 MOSFET, or rip the G&G DSG out and replace with SHS DSG with 9mm bushings... or JB Weld something to create crude cams for ASTER to detect (it may not need very large pronounced cams created as the axle is larger 5mm compared to reg 3mm axle, there is a slight risk this large sector axle may confuse the ASTER, but the radius would only be 2.5mm compared to 1.5mm & the height of any cam would be greater than this, so it should be possible imho) Either way there is some cost/work involved, The Perun would be maybe the best option if you could swap the ASTER for a Perun Optical ??? (ASTER is just under $70 on Evike & Perun is just over $70) The ASTER is a decent option for boxes where say the 2-part Titan needs modification to box to avoid fouling/shorting on some re-enforced boxes - think Krytac boxes need a bit of modding Where the ASTER is a one piece unit, so no risk of fouling/short from top half of unit (ergh - coz it doesn't have a top half on ASTER) Unfortunately - it reads the sector COL cam, which normally would work fine in almost any v2 box Alas coz the G&G's HC05 DSG has no cam(s) at all it won't work properly so make the cams like TSG vid showed & test/retest or use the Perun v2 Optical I suggest you try & read some of the modifications I did to mine a while back, You can skip most of me moaning about it, but your cylinder might have a hole drilled in it too But focus or translate what stuff I did when I opened it... One day I might fit a Perun in mine, But it is a quirky gun as is with no semi. G&G did this with no semi to avoid copyright from Seigtek/Riot, Who had the idea/concept of the DSG. Shame - could have been an awesome gun, But as usual G&G didn't quite get it right So HC05 owners are left with a CQB gun that doesn't fire on semi and left to ponder, what way is best to finish the gun that G&G failed to do it's so annoying, coz G&G did made a clone of Riot's DSG with cams on 3mm axles https://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-996 But for legal reasons I guess, went with a bespoke 5mm no semi one instead to make some weird, odd lemony pig of a FireHawk DSG instead Where as, G&G could have cut a deal with Riot perhaps and/or approach Perun and buy in bulk the v2 optical plus also their better ETU - now ETU++ than make their own crappy DairyLea ETU Naaahhh, they wouldn't do that... Why not ??? Specna Arms use Gate mosfets in some of their guns from the X-ASR, also the ASTER and I think the Titan too Once again, G&G let their pride get in the way or rested on their laurels, allowing others to catch up & even surpass them sometimes

I'm not 101% certain but the ASTER might not work with the HC05 Well not out of the box... The HC05 DSG sector has no COL cams on it (well unless G&G has revised it) The ASTER optically reads the COL cam on the sector gear for timings Yeah.... One problem - the 5mm axle G&G DSG doesn't have any cams to read So it ain't gonna do jack shit as far as I can tell A similar problem with the ASTER and the TSG conversion thingy is that affixing the top half of TSG to a reg lower half sector means you only have ONE COL cam for the TRI-SECTOR-GEAR (or affixing a DSG upper to a 12:1 lower sector to create a 6.25:1 ratio - only ONE COL CAM) So the TSG or 12:1 DSG in an ASTER means it will fire 2 or three times (one full revolution) then the ASTER's optical sensors set at an angle finally detect the single cam NOW you could build your own "cams" for the ASTER to detect but will involve a bit of testing & shaving see this video to understand it a bit... He has the ASTER and this is what he had to do to get the TSG to operate in semi correctly and in theory similar crap would apply to the HC05 DSG with no cams to begin with Another thing to watch for is that many of these fancy mosfets are quite large and even on 8mm bushings they come close to the outer edge of the sector's 8mm bushing (they clear it, but on some models it is a little closer than others) The HC05 has 9mm so called ceramics which are quite chunky Yes you can replace these with 5KU 9mm bushings & 9mm SHS bearings However - the G&G cam-less DSG (and the default Spur/Step gear) has 5MM Axles not 3mm ergh so you can't just use a lower profile 9mm bearing or a 9mm bushing without enlarging the 3mm to 5mm Now you "might" just about be OK with fitting the ASTER with the ultra chunky 9mm G&G ceramic with 5mm axles but they are a bit chunky from what I remember and here is pic of ASTER - with the red led beaming downwards trying to pick up the COL cam on sector (which doesn't exist on G&G DSG unless you make them up from JB Weld etc...) Really - what you should have bought was the Perun v2 Optical... as it is much smaller - so totally misses the 9mm chunky ceramics plus the sensors pick up the sectors teeth for timings - not COL cam so would work on the cam-less G&G DSG & not be tight on chunky ceramics The gear set in the HC05 is a reg 18:1 ratio with a 10 tooth bevel I'm pretty sure of but the spur/step gear was a weird 5mm axle and didn't run smoothly for me so got a SHS 16:1 gear set, used the bevel & spur, some 9mm bearings (couldn't get 9mm bushings quickly) then moved some stuff around - put 9mm ceramics with 3mm axle for 16:1 spur then SHS 9mm 3mm bearings on the bevel ( I think ) so had a spare couple of the G&G 9mm ceramics with 5mm centre for the weird DSG axle I've got 9mm bushings now and one day may revisit my HC05 box and fit the Perun Optical in it nad finally get it firing 101% on semi etc... at long last But the thing is I would not put it back into the FireHawk in the end as such a short 128mm barrel means you lose fps on the DSG so would probably look to swap boxes from say a G&G FFR A2 with a 205-ish barrel (FFR A2 is/was an ETU that crapped out so is now old school trigger 13:1) and this reg G&G box with 13:1's for the FireHawk instead - basically straight swap of boxes but gain a bit of fps (hopefully) in the longer FFR A2 Similar thing to you fitting a longer barrel where you should see some gain/creep But for me I'd drop the box into a slightly longer CQB M4 and keep the titchy FH look (but to each their own as they say, yet it is a lot of fucking around regardless) The motor's in the FireHawk's is or was the Blue "Powerful Motor" ferrite but about 24,000rpm (sorta weaker version of Orange Ifrit) - but pulls the DSG out of box and fitted or WAS fitted to other FH's, CM18's and perhaps the 30th spec editions but not always fitted to all guns - even the FFR A2 has the lame 27tpa/18k grey in there - shocked Anyway the Blue motor isn't bad for a stock motor and can get say 18rps on 13:1 with the G&G Bluey motor (done right with a few teeth SS'd) on 7.4v maybe 16~17rps if needed a slightly bigger spring in a 128mm barrel but still have option for snappy 7.4v and/or 25~26rps on 11.1v (getting near the TopTech FireHawk performance) To be absolutely honest - the HC05 is still a pile of shit imho if G&G haven't sorted it out and got it to fire semi or fitted the Perun Optical then they are bigger idiots than ever you'd be better off getting a NORMAL FireHawk steel 8mm bushings, metal rack SHS piston, SHS DSG with a bevel+spur from 16:1 SHS (you should have the same motor anyway) at least you will have semi unlike the HC05 out of box well tbh I'd probably do the std FH as 13:1 than DSG and say a 200~250mm M4 like the FFR A2 or short Raider sleeper gun as DSG yeah the HC05 could be re-done with perhaps the Perun V2 Optical as best option But it is still a fucking wank if G&G are knocking the exact same shit CQB guns out Oh and DON'T use a High Speed motor like the BD-M160 stick with say a 25k to 30k SHS High Torque motor tops maybe 18tpa to say 22tpa if you are trying hit over 350fps on titchy barrel gun so need a slightly heavier spring yeah the HC05 is still a pita & one that people should read up on before buying (hence this post was originally more of a warning than a review)

Whoa whoa whoa... was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ??? now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows

Just don't store it primed & ready for use, left in ya bag after game day (yeah if you can remember those days) One of mine was left primed for months (totally forgot about it) when I went to use it, it had stuck & failed to to go BOOOOM after 5~7 secs poured/squirted loads of WD40 & silicone in it but never worked 101% after it got stuck so avoid being forgetful & leaving it primed in ya bag ready to use They do a nice impact one "Dominator" that works on soft-ish ground better than O-Shi-Boom but more bulky than O-Shi-Boom & others Adapters for different blanks can be bought - but watch for revised adapters for older Dynatex (I bought wrong ones - in the end made up a sleeve to use Cheddites .209 in my 9mm BFG) soz for waffle - just avoid leaving it primed is the real message

list: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/maple-leaf-macaron-60-aeg & https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/omega-nub-soft-70-gear-parts & maybe: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/zci-rotary-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4 Now you are using 11.1v on 12:1 with a 28~30k motor so estimate rps @ say 25rps on 7.4v which I advise you to try first to get shit running OK on 11.1v you will likely be hitting 38/39 rps, though battery might only get to 35rps - still a bit too damn quick build a new hop/bucking/barrel to swap in/out the bearings in the piston - you used threadlock I hope as they have a habit of coming adrift (no matter how damn tight you tighten the screw up) it's the bearings, as they move & transmit impact/vibration it just starts to undo & crunches up in cylinder bearing doesn't or shouldn't sit inside the spring as such, there is like a 15mm washer/race with a collar holding it in place - that collar on far right sits just inside spring... you would probably need to mod the tappet a bit for a snappy gun cycling quickly... **** though I'd trim it not quite as much as I did - somewhere in between the two above **** I'd still run it on 7.4v first to iron most issues out first, then see if tappet needs more trimming or higher tension spring to return more quickly the ONE tooth you took off release isn't THAT bad, compensated by slight trimming of fin from full tappet fin however I don't know if the nozzle is correct length or if tappet is 101% suited... ensure the rails are smooth inside box... DON'T GO NUTZ WITH EMERY PAPER !!! stuff like cleaning internals with toothbrush & any smoothing of piston rails & tappet rails - use a really OLD kitchen scourer (basically worn away to shit, only mildly abrasive - clean/smooth surface but not wear it away something just to smooth the surfaces without wearing it away to bits, really knacked scourer works well) something like that will do to clean up rails n channels n shit (test for any burrs & then, only then lightly sand any real burrs in that exact area) Ensure the tappet glides smoothly back n forth - all clean up front of box, no crap/shit etc... SHS tappets are a bit chunky up front, perhaps see if the front can be sanded a little to ensure nozzle seals well (they can be a little untrue, not quite perfect 90 degrees, drop in cup of hot water for a min or so then straighten - carefully & should be more true 90 degree) an area to watch for is the tappet fin hitting the sector axle that can impede it returning fully some axles are more chunky than others & might need to use a needle file to CAREFULLY file the EXACT area on fin so it no longer hits/impedes the tappet returning 101% as the std Cyma one had a chunky bit cut out to miss the axle... that is the stock CYMA fin untouched btw (they have extra material inside box hence the modding of SHS tappet up front) all this shit is something you have to investigate after learning what a cnut these toy guns can be Other stuff like your sector could be shimmed a bit high and possibly rubbing on tappet plate that can rub/impede its effective operation... (see if the unsprung tappet slips back n forth without moving sector gear (bevel/step removed) or rotate sector through cylinder area & see if it drags the tappet back with it if rubbing basically you have to double/triple check EVERYTHING as various bits n bobs do NOT work perfectly the TM Compatible bollox is more like TM Compatible-ish at the best of times some shit works OK & other stuff is only gonna make matters worse hence numerous bits may need a minor mod every part MUST be checked & compared with the old part(s) it replaces very very closely often check sector/tappet/cylinder operation in top half of box (saves messing with wiring in lower half but less play/wobble in top half of box when checking how it all glides) with delayer BUT WATCH FOR TOO MUCH RETRACTION or bottoming out on cylinder head... WAY WAY TOO MUCH INFO STUFF - but more to show the checking of shit in top half of box it is all loads & loads of checking shit - mostly not needed as it will all pass the checks OK but if you change LOTS like you have you really need to check LOADS of things - well EVERYTHING so it all operates perfectly and smoothly everywhere There is other stuff like if you tighten the stock M5 bolt up TOO MUCH it can pull the box back and in turn tilt the box upwards at front slightly, which when tilted up can rub on hop unit as it enters back/forth Normally this happens on metal receivers than plastic ones as plastic receivers do allow a bit of flex so it doesn't pull the box back/up The nozzle "shoulder" shouldn't be too snug fit into the hop unit the red SHS nozzle for example is a bit snug entering brand new G&G hop units so can impede the whole shit bollox operation of chambering & sealing effectively (if using another hop or worn in G&G hop unit the nozzle moves freely back n forth at speed everytime) again might not apply to your gun, but just some examples of where & how these poxy guns can be such cnuts

How do you enable/disable AB on the 904G ??? I didn't think you could disable it - it was on by default like G&G ETU & others EDIT - you changed the 904G out for a Perun ??? FFS - why buy the 904G & completely gut it why not buy almost any M4 ??? You likely got overspin coz optical sensor didn't pick up the teeth or grease on sensors Also with the optical mosfets you can't just bench test them like normal boxes... They need to be fitted into receiver or at least cover up areas like M4 pin as light can enter & fuck with sensors & shit confusing the module You should have cut 3 teeth off the pickup side imho (if you was removing say 4 or 5 then yeah take a tooth off release perhaps) Anyway.... Trim the tappet fin a LITTLE bit to allow tappet/nozzle to release a tooth earlier (on very snappy high speed builds - you should consider it anyway, say trim 3 or 4mm off) sort of in between a full tappet fin & a DSG tappet fin perhaps However - the 904G isn't a screamer out of box - even on 11.1v What battery are using 7.4v or 11.1v ??? say 24rps on 7.4v & 37rps on 11.1v - however the 904g fancy mosfet skims some of this off so you could be looking at 20 & 30rps aprox Now you used a SHS piston... Did you check this for binding - if it falls easily in the box ??? coz these pistons - though very good do tend to bind/drag on numerous boxes... JG, Cyma's, APS... lightened SHS stuck, not falling in a APS box, they can bind especially more so at the back of box... your piston could be binding , slowing its return, losing power & increasing risk of PME SHS's don't bind in G&G boxes - but unsure if they bind in DE boxes without a little mod Has piston got bearing/spacer inside or not ??? any spacing inside or no spacing alters the spring's compression power each tooth is 3mm pitch, so bearings = aprox 5mm or 1.5 teeth compression on retraction if you take a m120, SS 3 teeth = aprox 45 fps drop (each tooth is about 15fps ~ 16.4fps or m05) if you remove bearing or 5mm spacer = 24fps drop if you remove chunky 9mm alloy spacer = 45fps drop again on spring power if you correct AoE you lose say 10~15 fps as you shorten the max stroke (depending how you correct) Now offset against some of all this - is if you get nigh perfect seals for compression so could claw back say 30fps or so... the other issue if you have poor seal with nozzle/bucking lips (I would not have changed bucking/hop stuff until you test on established old bucking/barrel first (you change way too much in one go - it can be harder to pinpoint exact issue or if you have multiple issues going on at once) maths, suggestions & bollocks aside, you need to go back and check EVERYTHING very very closely

And just now 7:00am TWG announce last push for 10% discount #WINTER10 NB: if a gun has " NEW " in the description/pic the code does NOT WORK on it it seems (even if they have had the item in stock for fucking weeks - if it says NEW it may not work) eg: M904G - yup 10% off but M904E - nope no discount even though it was stocked before BF 15% offer (was thinking of buying the stock tube version £112 x .85 discount = £95 back then but thought nah... gotta draw the line as I'm out of hiding spaces now) Watch what you order - in case it has NEW in description and order in next 24/48 hrs as this thread originally stated as always be mindful of what/where you order from... US/Japan have nearly always been stopped by Customs imho Ordering from China late Jan (if it is awaiting stock) or early Feb can get hit by Chinese New Year (12th Feb I think) if the China crap is still in far east come then - you are gonna be in for a wait It's Christmas - the whole world is going nutz after a fucking crazy 2020 The MSM are going full throttle with the world is ending come 01/01/2021 & Brexit then in the next story... Shoppers are asked not to panic buy as no deal fear starts to spread... Ho Ho fucking Ho

which is why I said... Whitehall TRIES to influence the politicians there are some senior civil servants who strongly advise senior politicians (and then are very uncooperative if the politician scoff their advice) Some may argue that is what Whitehall is there for - to some extent is true The point being is that many of these senior civil servants remain in their position whilst the politicians move on/take the fall at ballot box (sometimes as a casualty of Whitehall's advice/action) Not saying Whitehall runs the government... but it certainly advises or helps steer the ship a little more than people believe