Sitting Duck

not quite a joke but I found it funny all the same & the guy's response is sort peew peew related...

What Helps You Decide on a Magazine? Readers Wives ??? (edit my bad wrong forum)

CQB with all that - don't need that on a CQB gun you need... kidding/sarcasm btw... as said I'm more minimalist approach though a flashlight for dark CQB would be one of my add-on's I guess

Two scopes/red dot sights ??? reminds me of... to each their own, I like FH's too but as is, minimal look with a stubby stock etc... (buffer tube battery idea was not a great idea imho but ho hum & all that)

If it's global - aka Hong Kong then the issue will be shipping & customs as per usual found some more local biodegradable ones if you are interested in saving money... https://www.realplasticfree.com/product/25274/organic-green-peas?PackID=24038 100% plastic free...

A JOKE but if this truly offends then mods please remove A Jewish/Scottish/extremely careful with his money (delete as required) man goes into the synagogue/church/place of worship (again delete what offends) and prays. "O Lord, you know the mess I'm in, please let me win the lottery." The next week, he's back again, and this time he's complaining... O Lord, didn't you hear my prayer last week? I'll lose everything I hold dear unless I win the lottery." The third week, he comes back to the synagogue/church/place of worship (again delete what offends), and this time he's really desperate. "O Lord, this is the third time I've prayed to you to let me win the lottery! I ask and I plead and still you don't help me!" Suddenly a booming voice sounds from heaven... "Benny, Benny, be reasonable. Meet me half way. Buy a lottery ticket!" sorry if this offends but I think it is a little amusing I've given options and if somebody is still offended ah bollocks, lighten up

Guarder SP110 = M120 Spring, so potential 394fps ??? 47rps ??? I could see you clipping near 27rps on 7.4v, then maybe 41rps on 11.1v - but 47 is going some, Though a beefy C LiPo will give you extra zest, The flip side is the fancy ETU's tend to skim a bit of power, (each diode nicks 0.5-0.7v, turn on/forward voltage). 30k ÷ 12.75 (ratio) will give you about 23.5rps, Squeeze a bit more out on 16awg/deans, shim well about 27rps, x 1.55 = maybe 42rps & I've smashed a piston at that speed even though it was short stroked 3 teeth ??? So 47rps is going some, perhaps questionable, given that ETU's skim some juice & motors should make a difference... A 30k motor Vs a 18k G&G there will be a difference. Also forget bells & whistles a second... Set the Titan to do basic stuff, no AB, precock, burst etc... Grab a standard RC power meter, Plug that in and run a 5sec auto burst on 7.4v, NB 7.4v not 11.1v to check amps on meter in auto, coz the way the fancy MOSFETs report stuff varies. Yes the surge from still will be 80-90 amps, But overall the draw over a 5 sec period should, be below 20, about 17 amp if done well 12:1 30k. Draw will be lower on higher TPA motor, But G&G 18k grey will struggle on 7.4v as it's ferrite. The amp draw on 7.4v will be roughly the same as 11 1v, The amps don't change, but the wattage alters on 11.1v, Watts = Voltage X Amps All you are doing is testing the amps on a meter, without risking smashing the piston at silly speed, Or excess heat being generated on a high amperage. Get the amps read from a meter on a 4-5 sec auto burst, Ensure it is below 20amps on a meter reading. Is the sector/gun short stroked ??? Coz SP110 spring is near 400fps Yes you lose a bit on a 300mm barrel, But think you are losing some FPS somewhere too, Coz the gun is losing efficiency it is working more, on the SP110 or M120 spring unless SS'd 2-3 teeth. And if running inefficiently that 47rps is dubious, Unless motor is a High Speed one, Which would explain it a bit along with heat/amps... A number of things don't quite add up to me, The slightly higher rof on a higher spring, Lots of heat & killing batteries etc... Motors not making much of a difference ??? (They should as you have a range of performance) Yeah some stuff ain't quite as it seems to me, So check the amps on a RC power meter/analyser... Seems like you have used a SHS lightened piston, so I wonder if the piston is binding quite a bit... Which would explain some things, heat, amps, some power loss... Yet this would effect the rps, which is quite high still... So yeah, some things are not quite adding up to me ???

jeeez my neck hurts looking at Australian builds... (rotate pic next time - pretty please) niiiiiiiccceeeeee btw

Great - it's bad enough getting people to chrono their guns in time to play Now we will have teenagers/players whinging they can't get a decent signal so can't head out just yet - gimme a sec, nearly got 1 bar, whoa 4G too.. Oh shit, it's gone again... hasn't this woodland site got free WiFi or can we not play with better coverage meanwhile - SHIT we've been EMP'd or they got a counter UAV... Nope the owner is jamming the mobile signals coz he is getting fucked off with mobile muppets piss balling about and holding up next game nah - COD/Fortnite is one thing & peew peew is another

Like everything I guess... TV's £300 no longer buys you a big ye olde box TV it no longer buys you a chunky flat screen but now a wafer thin 50" mofo HD with 4k option a little bit more Sure they aren't Sony, LG's etc... but fuck me they are not that far behind £60 ~ £70 guns are ergh £60 ~ £70 guns still but point being the guns now at whatever price tag have improved loads and like TV's and shit you are getting a lot more better value for money Cheap or cost effective TV's or Cyma's or whatever have made others up their game Some of the slightly better Cyma's like Hi-Speed versions with 13:1's and say a 22tpa with a basic mosfet for say £35 more than a basic model represents good value for money as it would cost you that anyway (so some thought went into these gun model options) Can't comment on the more higher end metal M4's, but expect same applies I rated D-Boys which are Double Bell 416's a few years ago though at the time the hop was shit clear plastic and they have also made some improvements and unless you are trademark fan boy, then the D-Boys/Double Bell 416 is a nice cost effective gun (quite heavy as I own mostly cheapo light plastic guns - it is solid weighty 416 without trades) Double Eagle 904G's they are flogging that at fuck all mark up to make in roads and shift stuff in bulk to make money - £100 Honey Badger with basic bells & whistles fuck me, how many of those are gonna show up on game days after lockdown but most stuff & makes have upped their game from a few years ago you are getting more bang for your buck (or more higher res pixels for ya dosh) Cyma have just continually upped their game and most importantly sensibly upped their game making steady improvements bit by bit to result in a lot of decent sturdy cost effective guns for various budgets But be careful trying to contact Cyma's customer service department as this is how the conversation might go... Kidding btw - but still fucking funny

worn Cut Off Lever or stick trigger switch/trolley getting stuck in contacts ??? or we talking DSG HC05 or something daft or we are talking about std FH and if so it might have the 8 tooth bevel in it (they also do a 9 tooth bevel as well as the regular 10 tooth bevel) 8 tooth 9 tooth 10 tooth weird eh ??? Sure when I opened up a reg FH it was an 8 tooth in there so it pulled spring easier but gave the ratio 22.38:1 than 18.65:1 hence some launch TT FH's were pretty snappy & others were not, most of them perhaps (grip is one give away, not always though, plus TT sticker in magwell) so was a bit lamer on a 7.4v than the Top Tech ones But even on a 11.1v you'd struggle to hit over 20rps on a modest FH and you can't fit much of a 11.1v in the stock tube so can't see the absolute need for AB myself

issue if the nozzle is tooooooo long, then even on full retraction there isn't say nearly 7mm in font of nozzle in hop unit to chamber/allow a bb to slip/pass & into bucking if the nozzle is tooooooooo short it feeds better, but shorter nozzle never quite seals on bucking resulting in fps loss as lips blow from lighter sealing pressure it will probably be fine with a small tiny tolerance - you get a bit of give n take if you get feed issues then you may have to fit delay clip or file nozzle lightly you might be OK on semi or slower speeds, on faster snappier guns feed issues can occur more sometimes you got a bit of leeway & others you have finer tolerance or tappet/nozzle window (don't worry about it - I over think shit way way way too much) give it a go and suck it & see as the saying goes, you'll probably be OK if not start a new thread for more of your toy gun headaches

Cool - no wobbly nozzle then ??? coz the SHS ones I have - from Gunfire & decent Chinese sellers were a bit loose (snug in other tappets like SHS ones, but was loose in Cyma clear & recent blue tappets) had some snide lighter red/pink nozzles that were shorter & fit poorly in every tappet mind you the nozzles i got are a few years old I guess, even the SHS ones so if Pete's nozzles fit snuggly I'd be interested in grabbing a few myself POM nozzles that are too tight fit can distort if wedged into a tappet & lose good seal at o-ring it is the classic pita compatible crap - often stuff works alright but other times they don't go to plan (like the larger eyelet on Cyma switches, v3 spring guide in v2's, ultra loose as fuck cylinder head odd safety arm screw outside box, different tappet plate, possible qwirky nozzle, reinforced box for 13:1's piston head is alright once you change o-ring though) cheers for heads up - might drop Pete a line re nozzles 21.4mm ish, it is in Luke's recent video but knew that anyway - it is around 21.4~21.45 (common M4 nozzle, some use nozzles a little shorter like ICS & some others) in some boxes/builds it can a whisker too long hence measure nozzle and other stuff to compare it all but yeah Cyma's are usual 21.4mm

well then it is "something" you have done with all the experimentation (pretty obvious - but if all back to stock & still shit then something has taken place) Only you know what you have done, likely the shimming/height is not the same as it was The only other thing I can think of is something else you altered/changed (& not mentioned) eg: new piston that is ultra fucking tight binding, causing extra drag/load (way more than a smidge higher spring)

Be careful of them Magpul/PTS clone grip bollox I had a couple and some other aftermarket grips - they were shite motor sloppy as fuck, motor grip plate seem to shove motor way out of line with axle certain motor plates don't always fit other grips - despite looking the exact same So come to the conclusion that most often the stock grip is kept as it usually is fair good (sod changing grips to a more fancy looking one) Sounds like you might have a burr or slightly wonky gear or two also adding to stuff - sometimes a rebuild goes according to plan, almost completely flawless easy shimming other times it is nightmare after nightmare and have to go back with an ultra fine examination of everything Yes I fully understand how some motors, the way the armature is set on the motor's axle higher/lower results in some motors being nigh on the max/min limit in some guns/grips etc... also the springs on the motor tower can vary too, usually they compress right down to say just under 5mm (squishing them & measuring in a digital caliper) but others only compress down to say 6mm - so before you start the motor can be sitting 1mm higher due to a motor spring with more coils in it Then factor in the way armatures sit higher/lower on some motors and in middle of magnetic field (like SHS & ZCI) then no wonder swapping motors can result in a very different motor height setting and sometimes this can be beyond the tolerance of motor height adjustment on some guns/grips fucking nightmare it can be - I know some will be tempted to add some shims between grip/box to space the grip if motor sits way too high - well as temp fix or to see it if improves (I guess if you had 4 screw threads in box you could add 2 to left/right to slightly tilt motor angle) but really this is a temp fix/test or bodge trying to see if motor aligns a little better but really try another grip/motor/pinion/gear-set or something and go back over it all again end of the day you know by the sound if it is right or not, backed up by amp draw but you know when it sounds right - it's your own fault for being a fusspot when dealing with lapse Chinese tolerances is poxy toy guns

The gun is fine as it is, it is a very cost effective gun that has a few basic bells n whistles (prog burst, binary etc... plus the electronics take over with a quick flick/release it fires say 5 rnd burst) yes it doesn't have pre-cocking but c'mon, for the money you get good bang for buck considering a better optical mosfet unit is £60 upwards in a say £100~120 gun mosfet is bespoke so if it fucks up then replace with Perun optical but use it as is if you can find a really titchy 11.1v then run it on that for a bit of zest but the room in the 904G stock is bloody small, they could have made it a tiny bit thicker to accept a bigger/wider range of 11.1's

Motor grip/angle is my hunch but tbh it could be anything, wire either side of motor loads of slack in the gearbox opening & motor tower so it thrashes about... Motor grip OK on gearbox out of receiver ??? so the grip needs filing as it could be pulling when all fitted together to receiver ??? tried marking the box with receiver & also grip to see if grip is too large ??? something like the motor axle is not 101% inline with bevel axle, so it is running off centre or at a minor angle if motor slightly skewed I'd grab another grip if you got one, one that is pretty snug on box and doesn't have a massive motor entry point to the box so hopefully the motor is not able to thrash about once it all aligns (hopefully in sync & in line from motor axle shaft direct to the bevel axle so the bevel pinion is exactly at 6 o'clock & not offset)

that's basically what all my maths n shit was all about a rough ball parky thingy to kinda say - yeah fuck it it's somewhere around that It's when cylinders use the type A, B, C, D bollox or 4/5 or 3/4 or 2/3 crap... coz I've looked at some and thought - yeah ???, looks more like 3/4 than 4/5 or that type B looks like another claim of type D - too vague at times measure it, lop a bit off, x10 - yeah fuck it near enough in that range

Are they going to bring out guns in football team colours or something trying to drum up support for team games after such a dry few months Then two teams can face off each other and chant... YOOOOOUUUUUURRRRRR SSSSSSHHHHIIIIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA then row with the ref/marshals... FFS referee are you fucking blind... (or much much worse) as airsoft has young players in it at times and the importance of playing fair & respectfully here is a bit of a funny about kids football... ************************************************************************* At one point during a game, the coach called one of his 7-year-old football players aside and asked, “Do you understand what cooperation is? What a team is? The little boy nodded in the affirmative. “Do you understand that what matters is not whether we win or lose, but how we play together as a team?” The little boy nodded yes. “So,” the coach continued, “I’m sure you know, when a penalty is called, you shouldn’t argue, curse, attack the referee, or call him a dick head.” Do you understand all that?” Again the little boy nodded. He continued, “And when I call you off the field so that another boy gets a chance to play, it’s not good sportsmanship to call your coach ‘a dumb arse–hole’ is it?” Again the little boy nodded. “Good,” said the coach. “Now go over there and explain all that to your mother.”

phew that's a relief coz 99% of my posts are me waffling on & on more than I need to using 101% of the same crap I've posted previously port is about say 43mm from front take off say 15mm = 28mm left multply by x10 = 280 cylinder is about right for a 280mm barrel roughly dunno if he has the 210 stubby DE or a slightly longer one of say 310 but yeah port is roughly about right for a precision built bit of airsoft engineering (sarcasm) or fuck it, chuck that it there and give to 5 year olds in the sweat shop to assemble for 50 cents per hour don't know if 15mm or 12mm or 20mm is correct - don't care too much these days but only ever a ROUGH GUIDE to begin with, but peeps usually got the gist of what I was hinting at (same as gear ratio checking, unless you really like counting teeth/maths n shit actually the gear ratio or 3 x bevel rotations works out very well tbh to arrive at real ratio) as said same ol' same ol' stuff most of the time

don't tag me into this - I'm trying to reduce my carbon footprint/bandwidth for lengthy replies nah it's all about right I reckon volume wise, could SS 2 teeth off the 3 steel tooth but why complicated stuff if it all works on OK, just run it on a titchy 11.1v and should be alright Good sharing btw...

750rpm = 12.5rps 12.5 x 1.55 = 19.375rps it is ROUGHLY about 55% on a 11.1v compared to a 7.4v BUT different batteries/burst/capacity & brand can produce a bit of difference As said torquey 27tpa on 11.1v you get a bit more than 55% crazy speed motors a little bit less as there is a limit to motor performance somewhere between 18rps to say 24rps is about right imho without being a dick - plenty of snap without risk of getting slapped if go a bit nutz twenties is plenty & all that Cyma AK 028 with fixed stock, jam a schottky diode across motor (if you can't be arsed to install a mosfet) and just use 11.1v - snap without going too nutz or chucking loads of money at it if/when she plays up, then consider upgrades & decent 7.4v but 11.1v on lame motor (with diode/mosfet) is an easy cheap boost just bought some of these last week when they were on offer at £6... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/rhino-2200mah-3s-25c-lipo-battery-pack-w-xt60.html?wrh_pdp=1 fucking short balance lead but £6 - c'mon

With lame or low speed motors you gotta use 11.1v to get some snap it won't go nutz, just about x 1.55 of what 7.4v speed/rof is so 11rps on 7.4v will equate to around 17rps on similar spec 11.1v might nudge 18rps if lucky as high tpa motors spin a bit more on 11.1v and low tpa motors spin a little less that x1.55 on higher lipo's it is to do with max efficiency/potential of motor being reached on different motors but general rule of thumb is 11.1v is about 1.55 rof over a 7.4v lipo it is going to be a 27tpa/18k motor in there say so 11.1v will kick it up to say 28,000rpm hardly insane rpm - so should be OK though very fast motors like 40,000+ will spin ultra quick & brushes will wear faster putting more juice/volts through it & higher rpm will cause the brushes to wear a bit more but 18rps is not too mental imho & you need it somewhere near that as 11rps is too low when in the thick of it all kicking off and if/when eventually the old stock motor craps out, shove in a better one & 7.4v TL-DR - YOU'LL BE FINE

The original ETU - and by that I mean the Electronic Trigger Unit inside box has one power/supply that is sent to all 3 original switches trigger, selector position & Cut Off Lever so in the end the mosfet unit receives back 3 signals on/off from the 3 switches which the mosfet/control unit then processes accordingly the mag empty switch would I think basically kill or break/open the trigger circuit so it no longer fires (or no longer sends a signal back to unit even if trigger is pulled coz mag switch has "opened" the circuit) The selector plate in ETU guns are semi only - meaning the COL is always popping each cycle or the selector plate has the extra material removed for a DMR mod if you go back to old school then an ETU selector will need replacing for old school full auto to function I did look into using two resistors in a "latching" or 2 way switch/latch circuit but my electronic knowledge is not that intense and despite a few bench tests on proto boards the actual latching never quite performed exactly as intended... The idea is the gun cycles or latches until COL pops and ensures the gun is always finished its cycle (so gun even in auto never stops with COL still raised or dead trigger in semi) yeah it didn't quite work as intended What you propose sounds like a lot of work when the Perun++ unit would be the easiest & sensible option and be about same space as Nano-Hard https://www.airsoftworld.net/perun-g-g-etu-upgrade-kit-programmable-drop-in-mosfet-deans.html somewhere there is a 5% discount code too - lot easier solution 5% code might still work: AWFF1102312012 and fit gate Nano to a conventional gun