BrightCandle

A tracer probably just leaves the LED running all the time, its pretty cheap to just make a circuit with some batteries and a few LEDs in a trace. But this device has to detect the movement of the BB, be it via pressure, movement or whatever mechanism it uses, then light up. That is definitely more complicated, its not as simple a circuit. I still think its overpriced for what it is and I am sure other companies will do it much cheaper. I would really like to see people using this, would be awesome to get some muzzle flashes going but its not going to get wide spread adoption at this price.

There are idiots like this everywhere in life, it just seems to me some airsoft sites seem to accumulate and keep them. If the marshalls don't ban them then you have your answer, they like having douche bags around and the site will just keep them. There is no point getting aggressive with these people, there is also no point continuing to play with them. Find another site that takes getting rid of A holes and cheats seriously and you'll have a lot more fun.

I have had reasonably good results with a set of goggles with a fan in the top. They seem to stay mostly clear. As a sniper you might very well find just a set of tactical glasses will do the job if you are well back from the action often.

I don't know about the medium buy my Viper UBACS has really long arms, at least 25" (its hard to measure perfectly as there is no shoulder seam).

I am kind of the opinion that its not working getting something beautiful and RIF like on the outside only to paint it green. So I would tempted to say just get a combat machine, I wouldn't restrict just to the transparent one although they tend to look better than a two tone. Then if you do need internal upgrades go about doing the ones you want, the biggest gains in accuracy are going to come on a new inner barrel but the hop is pretty decent out of the box as is the gearbox. You might also want a higher rate of fire so the motor can be replaced, but that isn't really necessary IMO. Basically don't spend too much on the externals, your going to wreck them with paint anyway. So get a plastic gun with solid enough internals and upgrade it instead of buying directly a more expensive gun. That is my basic recommendation.

You can even do this with some silicon lubricant. Heck the cleaning works just with some cut up kitchen towel and no liquid at all. You don't need to get fancy about cleaning the barrel, just running some ripped up kitchen towel will more than do the job.

Spewing BBs can either be fixed with a different hop unit that holds the extra BBs or alternatively you can get a magazine with a follower that makes it so every BB is fed and when you reload there are none in the chamber. If you do a tactical reload you'll still loose rounds but not on an empty.

You also don't need a flash hider to play the game. Most guns the inner barrel finishes before the flash hider and at the end of the external barrel so while it might look rubbish it wont impact the performance at all. So even if you don't get what you want in time it wont impact your ability to play the game. landwarrior has quite a few flash hiders in their parts> external part of their site. Not recommending them over anywhere else but saw a load of them on there while I was looking for external barrels so thought I would mention one of many places they can be found.

Pretty much all the airsoft web sites sell external upgrade parts for a gun. All you need to be aware of is the counter clock wise verses clockwise turn off the hider. Just take the existing one off and work out which way it goes and then go find a flash hider you like the price of. Most of them are metal but that isn't going to matter that much and I am sure there are some plastic/cheap ones out there. Most web sites also do next day deliver so you should have no issues getting it in time. You could also take your gun (in a case, you'll need one of those to go to your local site as well, always travel with your gun covered so its fully concealed and not recognisable as a gun) to your local airsoft shop and and find a suitable replacement part which they will almost certainly have (ring ahead and check they have some). That way you know you are going to be able to test it fits correctly.

You could pass the CO2 after the round, just a follow up of 10ms after detection would be sufficient. But it might start to interfere with the next round. At 800 RPM you only have 75 milliseconds between shots and that isn't a lot of time and follow on rounds might very well go through some amount of unstable CO2 so its only going to work well for single shots. Bullets don't get impacted too much by the dirty air as they are so heavy, but a BB could be enormously deflected by turbulent CO2.

Very stiff = not going to change when you don't want it to. If it can be turned just about then its as intended. Mine is stiff, they are basically all stiff to make it more likely the hop will stay precisely where you put it.

If you have the hop up all the way down are your BBs doing a lot of flying upwards? Its not uncommon for them to seriously gain height as they slow down if the hop is on really high and that will produce its own set of accuracy problems. It bring better range but its less predictable.

I am surprised that fixed the problem actually, because hop on or not doesn't impact the BB loading process. I suspect by taking it apart and putting it back together you have realigned something in that system which was misaligned. My hop has a filled cog. In my experience you don't need the whole motion of that particular cog at all, its done on purpose. If you just place it such that you get more motion before that tooth is hit you'll probably find it will work as intended. The main reason to replace the hop it is if the hop wont stay put.

Typically what happens is that the nozzle is what pushes the BB's forward into the barrel past the bucking. So what I would do is strip the gun down and look at the bucking, the nozzle and also the hop up unit. Somewhere in there is a reason why the BB's going vertically into the gun under pressure is pushing through the bucking when it shouldn't. If I was to hazard a guess I would say the bucking is damaged around the entrance to the barrel and isn't stopping the BB's rolling forward, but its also possible the nozzle is stuck forward and providing a ramp forward allowing them to press through the bucking. Could also be something in the hop up providing some forward pressure as well. But the bucking remains the most likely candidate because they degrade with time.

It depends what your problem with your existing hopup unit is. If the issue is that its not maintaining the setting and its lossening during games then finding a replacement for the actual hop up unit may well be your only choice, but you need to find one that is compatible and I don't know if the We Scar L has a standard one. If you take it out and take a photo we will likely be able to tell if it will take a standard unit. However if your issue is just poor hop or inconsistent hop then you don't need to change the unit, you only need to change the bucking and the nub. The bucking is dependent on FPS, but here in the UK we by and large use softer buckings because we use low FPS like 328. Buckings aren't very expensive so its possible to try a number of different 30 or 40 degree buckings and find one that works well. The second item you can change is the nub. Standard nubs are just rubbery like material or plastic cylinders with a hole in the middle on the end of the hop up arm. You can replace those with a H nub which might bring more consistent results. You might also consider an R hop (look it up on youtube) or similar which will have you making a contact patch that will provide more hop up with more consistency. So what you need to do depends on the problem you are having.

1. No batteries is nice I guess. Not so good in low light conditions obviously. 2. Not very, it can be useful for spotting but by and large most of the ranges airsoft is played at you don't need magnification to accurately acquire targets and shoot them. 3. Well zeroing is going to be interesting. Presumably you will want to zero the red dot for the closer combat and then zero the 4x for different ranges. Best way to learn how to do this is to watch a video on how to zero a scope on youtube. In essence all you do is shoot at a known point and then adjust the scope until the rounds land where you are aiming. With this scope you'll need to do this for each of the parts of it, and definitely at different ranges and ideally quite long ranges. No idea on the rest.

I use a 45L backpack and a swiss arms soft gun carry case. The backpack is just about big enough for all the kit I take.

We haven't heard anything, nothing on the airsoft map etc. It was due to open 1.5 months ago, the guy who posted hasn't come back and posted again. This is looking like its not coming. Would be nice to get a definitive answer to whether its done or still coming with a release date, but the facebook is as dead as everything else about this site.

There is no gap in mine, I have custom cut my lower mesh mask to fit perfectly underneith my goggles. If the BB had not struck the mask it would have struck my nose and been on a similar trajectory. The force of the BB moved my goggles and forced its way in through the rubber, thankfully most of the energy was lost in the process. I am however considering permenantly attacking the goggles and the mask together for ease of use and in the process I will also completely seal the area above my nose sealing it not just by the rubber of the goggles but also with the mesh mask and the seal to the goggles above it. My lower mesh mask is not at fault here, it stopped a much worse impact directly on my nose and turned it into an indirect one deflecting a lot of the energy. What it does show however is that the goggles need to be on tighter and fully sealing the lower mask would increase the defence in an otherwise very weak area of every eye solution.

I had a near miss last night with goggles. The round hit the nose piece of my lower mesh mask and hit into the rubber around my nose. It pushed my goggles up and squeezed underneath my goggles and I felt the last of its energy on the inside of my eye. Didn't do any harm to my eye, just a minor contact on my nose where it came through. But without that rubber stopping that round coming up it would have hit my eye full force, as it was that was scary enough.

I play at Bunker 51 a lot and its OK. The main problem is the site is quite small, its all focussed around a single fatal funnel from a T shaped design CQB area. The difference between winning and loosing is normally just about 5 metres of positioning, winning is just getting a key point and holding it and its very hard once the game is being won or lost to change the outcome. Its decent on safety, its kind of dark but not flashlight dark and its quite expensive considering its only 3 hours on a Saturday evening at the same price as everyone else is for the day, with expensive rentals (and bad rental guns). The floor is usually covered in paintball gunky although it depends, so sometimes its slippery and other times its not. Mostly semi auto, you can get away with a pistol all night because the ranges are very low. Its high action and low on tactics.

The division - other than the hugely staged team work it looks like a pretty generic third person team shooter, kind of like Defiance. Once you replace all that team chat with the general vileness that is online game chat or just silence (like most games) it looses a lot of its appeal. To simulate this try watching it without sound to get a good feel for how it will actually play. Rainbow Six Siege - So many issues with this game. They don't seem to hit each other very often, should be over much faster than it was. The bullets seem to leave enormous holes in the walls, and with such large amounts of penetration the entire building is just concealment. Somewhat realistic but the gun recoil and behaviour and bullet holes suggest realism isn't actually the target here. I don't know about this one, the reality of it looks like its probably not going to be all that great. Battlefront - No idea what the game will actually be like. Trailers can show anything they want, has zero relation to the actual game. I don't think I saw anything I was really impressed with, nothing particularly innovative or had the wow factor. What gameplay there was didn't really seem like it changed very much.

- Video on how to modify your mask (the Mr B was looking for).

You need to modify your mesh mask. You can pull off the elastic out area and you'll find its just glued onto the mesh. You can then cut it to fit your goggles face better and bend the hell out of it until its nice and snug on your face and doesn't get in the way of the rifle butt so much. I personally found a big improvement after I modified mine and I highly recommend others do so as well. All I really needed was some glue (I used a hot glue gun which was perfect but about £8 including sticks) and some wire cutters (I used my dremel most of the time). My cheek weld is much improved now pushing on my mask doesn't result in my glasses being pushed out of the way.

If your a sniper how many rounds do you really fire in a game? 20 or 30 isn't unreasonable considering how few rounds you really ought to be firing at people. There is a decent chance these aren't prohibitively expensive for an actual sniper weapon and role. Still I think this is more in the realms of competition shooting and not skirmish as the price is quite steep but its also not something your going to use in an AEG. I would like to see an accuracy comparison.