BrightCandle

The TM recoils are awesome, they feed all the BBs they have great recoil, they are accurate and dependable. I looked into the Masada reviews and its accuracy without mods isn't all that impressive. Its certainly sufficient, but this is a gun that doesn't come with tightbore by default for its inner barrel. It does however have a quick change spring and barrel so you change the power and length quite easily, but it doesn't have recoil or bolt locking. The MOE handguards are pretty nice, they are light and adaptable. I think the main disadvantage of the gun is it only takes their magazines, so they are kind of expensive. Its gearbox is propriety but the parts internally are replaceable with the usual parts. I can't find anyone doing a full breakdown, whether it uses bearings on the spring guide, bushings or the quality of the cylinder head etc. But all that stuff can be replaced in time if it wears out or you want to get better more reliable compression,

I can get about a 1 inch grouping with a T418 at 10m firing supported from a block but still shouldered. 2-3 inchs at 15m is a little higher than ideal but its not terrible, its about the same as my combat machine got. I have been meaning to show the difference I see between the two guns on paper groupings, but for now I would say it sounds normal.

The VFC really looks the part, its a great gun to get and upgrade. The G&G T418 doesn't look as good. Its a top tech so it has decent internals, but I can't say my initial few weeks or skirmish with the gun was problem free unfortunately. I had a gearbox jam, I have had problems with feeding and I wouldn't say the range or the accuracy was very good. Hop seems out of the box to pull to the right. They are meant to have great internals, 8mm bushings, good gears, piston and cylinder and a 6.03 barrel with a nice hop unit. Its shooting worse than my combat machine. The VFC's internals are no where near as good but the externals have proper trades and I doubt its made of the rubbish metal my T418 is (the shoulder joints on the rail are pretty bad, I should take a picture of the unpainted bits as well as that is pretty bad). I have always thought the VFCs were a little overpriced for what they were, they aren't that great internally, but you can't fault the externals. Great upgrader/modder gun without a doubt.

I have a screwdriver and pliers kit that I got free from customPC subscription years ago which I have added a hex key that matches my gun too. I then have to pack a longer philips screwdriver for getting down the buffer tube and that is my total kit. Its about all I really need to strip the gun down completely. Its far from perfect (I would like a hammer!) but its just about sufficient. Its a bit bulky, there are tools in it I don't really need for airsoft purposes and I ideally would like to have a smaller purpose built multitool.

Yeah I thought the exact same thing when I saw that in the magazine.

So many good guns below that price. What do you actually want? Do you want swappable mags with your team mates? Something distinctive? Something for a particular load out or look?

I have found my brand new GR16 magazines to be a bit rubbish, they don't fill properly and the first 10-20 rounds don't come out of the gun properly, likely because its pushing the BB's up too hard into the hop. But this post isn't about those magazines but an idea I have had for a new type of magazine that brings real steel like capabilities to a mid cap. The idea is to take a mid cap and put multiple coloured windows into the side of it, at the full mark, 75%, 50% and 25% marks. Using either fibre optics or another mechanism I would light that glass if there was no BB there, so if the magazine was just under half empty the 100%, 75% and 50% ones would be lit and visible to you, the others would be dark. This would allow a quick check on roughly how much ammo was still available. PTS does the EMags with the full marker and the bullets like effect but I am considering a plan and practical airsoft polymer magazine, no attempt to try and look like a real steel magazine with fake bullets or anything fancy like that, just a practical magazine with an idea of ammo remaining and how full it is. I am still prototyping the lighting system and working on the design. Assuming I solve the problems I have with the unpowered lighting I will move onto a 3D printed example magazine and try it out from there. Thoughts?

I didn't have much luck with a frag grenade pouch from blue force with my TRMR. But I found it fits pretty well in a smoke grenade pouch. Having lost one TRMR in the woods I am keen not to loose another!

For a leaking mag I would go through the following: 1) Put some gas in it, and listen to where its coming out, it'll be either the top near the valve or the bottom. 2) If its the top try a flat head screwdriver on the valve and tighten it a bit. 3) If its the bottom then try tightening the bottom of the mag. Could be a screw or other mechanism. 4) If its still leaking at the bottom tighten the filling valve a bit. If none of those 3 points for tightening is working then you can go about emptying the mag of gas and checking out the O rings and other things, but these 3 points (well the 2 bottoms ones anyway) are by far the most common cause of leaking mags and fixes for that leak. The problem on Youtube when searching to fix leaky mags is people will typically list just 1 of these as the way to fix it, but there are multiple potential points for the leak and it can sometimes be hard to see/hear where it is coming from exactly.

The visionking is £30 cheaper, is actice illumination so depending on the other factors (how clear it is, how easy it is to get on the scope) it may very well just be a better deal all around. Can't really find reviews of either unfortunately.

Its exactly this attitude that annoys everyone else. He doesn't seem to realise that he is the dick on the field that everyone else wishes they would ban. It'll probably happen eventually if people continuously complain about his overkill and attitude problem.

If you chase the retailer you send it to they will probably do it while you wait. So if it doesn't get done immediately just ring them/visit and ask them to process it. Doesn't take them long and if you need it asap they ought to do it quickly, its not really in their beat interests to leave you hanging because you will just go elsewhere to buy in the future.

I was looking at F2000 reviews the other day and I came across this section at the end of one of levelcaps videos about a team they called "the terminators" who were not taking (from 7:40 if you want to just see the bit I am talking about) hits: Admittedly this isn't coming to blows but there is a lot of aggression put out by levelcap here with all those rounds, he knows he is overkilling and he's calling out abusively. Its kind of really dumb to get down to this point, to believe that the otherside wont take its hits and then being abusive about it all. I saw a bit of this on Saturday and its really poor play in general and I think the people that do start to get this aggressive kind of need to be given the appropriate warnings and bans. None of its needed. If it gets anywhere near blows it ought to be good bye for life, no ifs or buts. But even then this video bothers me.

RWA seems to do their own fibre optic based triangle post scope (like the SUSAT but fibre optic powered lit tip not radioactive). Its one of the cheapest short dot scopes I have been able to find. Its 1.5x - 6x scope so its possible to use it both eyes open with the low magnification and crank it up for longer range/spotting purposes. Eye relief - around 3" - 4" (really good and long, the real ones are about 90mm) Clarity - really good its very clear according to the guy on the phone (he would say that!) They are currently out of stock, but due back in 1-2 months. But I can't really find anyone that has reviewed these scopes. Has anyone ever seen one an have any idea about the sorts of problems you have with it? I am imagining it might be hard to get onto the scope perhaps, a very narrow field of view since its a scope not a reflex sight but the eye relief suggests is relatively forgiving. Any links to any reviews or perhaps other short dots (ideally a 1x-4x) that are reasonably priced?

I have tried a few different types of anti fog and they all end up doing the same thing. In effect instead of getting fogging (white condensation) the watervapour instead runs down the glass and and hence produces a rainy effect. Its significantly better to have rainout that fog but the vision is still blurred by the water. Even if they delay the process of the water starting to form for a little while its going to be overcome and then its going to rain out. I have tried some seriously expensive fogtech wipes and they are no better than a basic dropped of basic drops. The problem is just physics, hot area, colder outside, lots of moisture = condensation. The only way to avoid it is you get some air flowing to remove the heat and condensation. Some people doing that by wearing tactical glasses, some wear mesh, others where goggles with holes in them (lo pro's) and others use fans (noisy but reasonably effective). They all have different safety trade offs along with their mitigation of condensation. But magic wipes or any other this be magic solution isn't going to solve it. The one thing I haven't tried is a set of thermal lenses, I don't really know if that actually can work, in theory it could but I don't know how that plays out in practice for Mr Sweaty rather than the guys for whom basic wipes seem to work (the people who don't have much of a problem to begin with).

proairsoft, landwarrior tend to be the big suppliers of G&G's although there are others as well. Most of the top techs will say that in the description and you can always check on the guay2.com website what types each is. But its kind of easy, the expensive ones are top techs!

Same, I find its moister than I would like rather than being on the dry side. Dry is not the issue I am having!

Various people have done tests that show even the normal BBs go through a mesh mask, here is a fairly comprehensive test showing no catastrophic failures, just typical fragments going through and damaging cardboard - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igftdphEWRc Its not some theoretical possibility it does happen. I had it happen on my first game with a mesh mask, but was lucky it wasn't my eye just the skin around it. Bio BBs do tend to powder more, that is an established fact in the airsoft world, its because the moment they touch the air they are degrading. The older they are the worse the effect is. I know there are some people here that are really happy with mesh and advise others, but that also goes against the established tests that have been done by the airsoft community on youtube and such that show that bio BBs powder, that mesh masks allow fragments through. An eye surgeon at eyefields hospital also advised me to use full protection polycarbonate so I didn't end up loosing an eye, he had seen too many airsoft injuries from glasses and mesh mask and warned me away from anything else. Here is a video of every Bio BB splintering into a load of pieces and spraying off in all directions after hitting glass. They are meant to fall into 2 halves on impact, these are doing a lot more than that: Those chips can absolutely go through a mesh mask. We all choose our risk level, but to tell someone there isn't a risk with mesh is intellectually dishonest, the evidence is strongly against that position. You take the risk, but that doesn't mean there isn't one and that it isn't made worse by bio BBs, because it is.

Camoflage obviously makes the difference, but I don't know if you have noticed but quite a lot of special forces guys are using different camo on their trousers compared to their top. Its partly due to the way they intend to use the cover and hide. I think camoflage in airsoft ranges is not really about the camo you are wearing, but how you choose to silhouette yourself. You can make any green based camo work so long as you think about the guys looking at you and what they will see. There is a gear aspect to this but I think its probably worth getting a book or something on the art of concealment and how to break up your shape before you change your existing setup. Your inconsistent gear camo might not be the issue at all, it might be the spots you choose and the way in which you set yourself up.

In many ways I think the lipo's are a lot easier to look after. You put them in your gun, go by the rule that 600mah is good for 1000 shots and keep a rough idea of how many rounds have gone through. Once you start getting close to the limit you swap the battery. A 2600mah battery is good for about 4000 rounds so you'll kind of know once you have gone through an entire bag/bottle and are starting the next one that its basically time to change after that game. But once you get back home all you have to do is charge the battery in your smart charger. Leave it there until its done and then do the next one. You don't have to discharge them to avoid memory problems or anything like that. I have been having a look at the voltages of my batteries with a amp metre and I was kind of surprised to find (confirmed on other sights) that actually 7.4V is the minimum they put out. At full charge its more like 8.4 volts, 7.4V is the point at which you change the battery. Most of the time it will perform very similar to the 8.4 nimd all be it with more current which supposedly speeds up trigger response (I have only ever used lipos). If you physically damage the battery you can certainly have problems with them, you need a lipo smart and balance charger but other than that they aren't really any more fragile. They are basically a lower maintenance battery with much higher capacity in the same space, I can't honestly think why people would honestly choose nimd over lipo these days, they are basically superior in every way for airsoft purposes.

The sweat rolling down the inside of your goggles on the lenses is probably rain out. That is its condensation just like in fogged goggles but the lens has an anti fog coating that causes it to go clear and streaky instead of foggy white. IMO opinion its a lot better to rain out like that than fog out because you can at least still see. All the anti fog solutions you add to goggles basically convert to this effect. I sweat a lot, I get through about 6 litres of water in a single day of gaming. Even at that I'll be dehydrated a bit by the end of the day. I am by far the most sweaty person I know on the airsoft field, no one looks worse than me. I work hard and to my limit most of the day right up until I collapse. Its not uncommon to hear me say in a game "on your feet solder" to myself. So I have this problem in a big way, I especially hate the heat and I sweat enormously in 25C and above, have done all my life. The best solution I have so far found (I have tried hand bands, didn't help, caps didn't help, anti fog spray just rained out) is a set of goggles with a fan in the top. I run the fan on its maximum setting and it reduces the rain out. It doesn't eliminate it for me, I should probably remove the fam for even more aior flow up from the goggles to further aid it, but its the first solution I have tried that actually reduced the rain out to a manageable level. In the end I bought a set of desert locust's with turbo fan. I can finally see with them. I can't use a prescription insert into them however, that fogs up immediately. Even the special anti fog polycarbonate prescription lens fog really quickly with the fan running and such, but with contacts and the fan running I can keep my visibility pretty good all day. After running and then stopping for a bit it will rain out a bit, but it will recover in a few minutes of stopping and while never 100% clear its decent enough to fight with. Best of the safe options I have found so far anyway.

A site that mandates bios? Presumably they also mandate polycarbonate eye protection as well? If you are using a mesh mask get a set of tac glasses or goggles before you go, those bio BBs are health hazard for mesh users. There is a reason most sites don't allow them let alone use them.

I think the right thing to do is just to keep playing and keep shooting. I'll typically switch my aim for a squishy bit just in case and then check after the game if they really do have 30 welts on their left ear or not. Everytime I thought I was hitting I can't find the obvious mark on the guys neck/face/ear I thought I was making. Having done that a few times and just kept firing until I eventually do get the call I have realised I must just be missing. It seems unfavourably to me but its why when I zero my gun I do it firmly supported, prone, with a target at the exact same height and am going for a group within an inch at 10m and on a test grouping of 20 or so shots with an even spread around the centre. Anything less rigorous so far has given me too much variance in the field from point of aim. So my own personal experience of testing myself is that its my aim/shooting and not my targets calling their hits. So the guys that call this I personally think ought to be escorted off the site and asked to never come back, its obnoxious and they are probably wrong.

I lost a TRMR in the woods....so I ended up buying another one *sob*

I wouldn't count on the gun lasting more than 6 months without repairs. All guns fail and its because they have high speed moving parts. You simply can't get a gun that will reliably function for years as a primary if you play often. You can extend the life with some maintenance but when a gun breaks you will need parts and some time. You should learn how to disassemble and reassemble your gun, get a good look at the parts while they are fresh so that when something does break you can find and replace the bad bit. In the end a lot of guns can be very reliable once the worst bit is replaced with something aftermarket that is better.