NH Shooter

Got myself a fastmag and lonex flashmag... And stand, for £10 total!

See... I don't want to faff with the extra can, so I just fill mags direct from the big one and use normal green gas for that odd top off, should I need it. If I need to gas up that much more, consistently... I buy another mag. I don't like the idea of reusing those cans. I would just buy one of the remote jobbers... http://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/VFC-Multi-Port-Plus-Simulator-Hand-Grenade-Gas-Charger_ARUPB.aspx#.U_XPWtBwb0w Something like that...

Yeah... That's the expectations I'd have as well. And if you send your gun of to someone, your asking for their expertise... You can't then tell them what to do. It's why I don't tell my mechanic what to replace. The other option is... Fix stuff "on the side"... Rewire the odd deans connector. Replace some scraggy piston with one from the spares box... Not every fix has to be excellent, just better... Not bodging, but not making someone pay through the nose. I think I'd be happy if I sent a gun off and it came back with a note saying "I noticed, while servicing, your connector was bad and your tappet plate had a crack in it, as we discussed. I know you couldn't wait for a replacement because of your game this weekend... Here's your old one, but I've thrown in one from my spares drawer and resoldered the connector. You've not been charged for that, but it should help the gun. Enjoy your weekend" I'd be quite chuffed... Or at least there's options close to that.

I was gonna say... I got a 6kg bottle from a boot sale for £15, full... Which only leaves refills, which are dead cheap. I don't use any other cans, just throw the tank in the car. For the field, I have a normal store brought can of gas in case I absolutely, positively have to refill it... But I never do. That makes that can .25p per gram, and refills around .35p per gram. At those prices, you save about £8 per tin... You would recoup your tank cost (£55, new) by the time your propane tank was at around 60‰ full... That remaining 60% would save you about £88 by the time it was emptied. The second tank would save you £116.50 by the time you used it... Those 2 savings in real terms... That's £204 saved in 36 cans of store brought green gas.

I didn't say it was easy... But I fear that's the price you pay for scrubbing your gun down with fairy liquid. Any solvent strong enough to remove cured paint, isn't going to strengthen plastic, is it! One does not simply ... Fairy a gun...

Just speak to Mauri and get a stock unit... Best way to go about it... And wait to you get ukara...

Plastics are a broad subject... And they all react differently to various chemicals...

It's a consistency thing... Somethings overly worn, or low quality. Air seal can be fixed at home, as can most other issues. I would really suggest a new bucking, then better hop unit first off... The inconsistency in airflow will make a difference to a new hop, but much less than a bad hop will have on a consistant air seal... It's the best part to upgrade for this sort of issue. It also requires very little "tech" work. Stock barrels are good enough Stock internals are generally good enough (bad manufacturers not withstanding) Stock hops... Usually prone to wear and distortion. It's probably something as simple as a worn bucking... Or... Send it off to someone to look at... I'm not sure it's a warranty issue... Depends how old the gun is... To go through your thoughts... 1) I wouldn't sell up for such a small issue. And barrel length will have very little effect on the accuracy in a normal gun (generally speaking). My M4, after work can do head shots at 50m ish and that has a cqb length barrel 2) if your gun is young enough to potentially be in warranty... It's highly unlikely the spring has gone... Your just losing the power you do have... Either through the front or back of your hop. Possibly internally, but unlikely... 3) I'm not sure it's a warranty thing... Check with your supplier. 4) a barrel won't hurt, but it won't fix your accuracy issue... Not by the amount you need to reduce groupings by 3ft at 30m If I were you, I would do bucking, test, possibly hop chamber... Test... Come back... I would imagine it's just the bucking, though.

I'm currently doing the last of a set of 10 guns... All 10 are going to give me reviews, and I'm doing a nice spread of guns so when I launch, I have something official to put up rather than just "I've been doing this a while, really mate... Honest, like" I'm also going to machine up some nice bits and make a showcase... Nothing looks worse than pages of "under construction" or "coming soon" plus I need to make sure the site is robust and I have all my policies sorted. So hopefully, fully up and running in a month.

Lozart... I'm on my tablet, so basically, playing with large posts is quite a chore... I basically agree with everything. It's a given that you would contact someone of you find anything. And obviously, your sending back a fully functioning gun that you know to be in good order... Or you've failed as a mech. I think regardless of time taken to fix something, you quote for a job, then that's the price. If you take too long to do it... That's your problem, not the customers. This would be a side business, and not a main source of income... The onus would be on quality, not profit... The profit just allows me to buy more toys and fund a serious "tinkering" addiction.

This bugs me... But not for the reason you think... It's a reasonable price... Kind of... Call it an hours labour to strip your rifle down, get your gearbox out, open it, take your spring out, put it back in, close it, put the mech box in the gun, and put your rifle together. That's all the admin taken care of... Which leaves the spring itself. There's 4 ways to do that job... What you should actually do. The Proper way The "proper" way And the way your tech would do it... The way your tech would most likely do it is just lop off some coils. Done. This creates inconsistencies in the spring due to lack of finishing. Plus how many do you remove? That's mainly guesswork... It's a full bodge. The "proper" way is to remove coils, heat your spring, flatten the bottom coil, and sand it flat. The Proper way would be to do the above, but then you would need to heat treat the spring again... Because without that, all you've done is weaken the spring and increased the onset of fatigue damage. All of the above are irreversible... Which brings you to "what you should do" which is explain that cutting the spring is a bodge, and what you should do is just put in a new spring. Which realistically... Would cost very little more, and give you your spare spring to reverse the operation. Plus the work is much easier to track, more durable, better and just simpler... You can then, as an optional extra, have that spring shimmed to tune it, should you really want that magic number... But you shouldn't unless there's a technical reason. Warrenty is a funny one... The issue is, you can't guarantee previous work or damage... You also can't stop someone taking a newly fixed gun, then running it on a 11.1 for a 5 minute burst, then denying all knowledge. Any reasonable person would offer to fix a caused issue, but trying to explain how your piston stripping has nothing to do with your hop breaking (or whatever) gets tricky... But your right... People need assurances. The other way is to offer insurance policies... A small fee to guarantee any work for a set period... Worth it for your £800 gun... It's well worth proper thought, to make sure people are happy... I think just backing yourself up is all you need... Yeah, one in 100 customers might cause you an issue, but good will in some cases is worth more than gold... What's 3 hours of your life to help someone salvage a good game day... Or keep a recommendation. This is exactly it... Not everyone can, or wants to fix their own car either. Yeah, this is a given really. I think the key is to be realistic and not make promises you can't keep... And remember that your paying for a service that includes ACTUAL service, and not just work done.

Yeah... I was planning on supplying customers with a document showing the stages, what's been done, photos included. Both as proof of work and for the customers resale value. The servicing I've already partitioned into distinct blocks... All fixed price. And yeah... You need to be realistic on needs. Not only on knowing what someone actually needs... But knowing what they don't. Keep it coming, peeps!

Hi all... I've been working on friends guns now for a while... Fixing, upgrading, prepping for sale, diagnosing, painting and making parts. I've earned some decent money and I'm at a point where I should really be looking at registering a business. So... What would you like to see in a tech service? So far, it's looking something like this... - Servicing packages - Upgrades - Repairs - Hydro dipping - Machining (cnc parts and suchlike) - Used sales - Parts sales - Random interesting sales So somewhere you could, if you wanted to... Send a completely boneyard M4, have it stripped, durable, reliable, r-hopped, multicam'd, locked to semi and firing at long range... Exactly what you wanted in a single place... Plus buy a rifle for a mate, pick up a set of Master Chief armour and a hand stitched molle plate for a special application... So what would you really like to see in a tech service? What's missing in your Airsoft life?

Oh, of course... I was just pointing out that if you wear camo, without he things mentioned... Then it IS just dress up, not a tactical choice. I'm currently making up foam armour, exactly for that reason... I'm going to have fun playing ACTUAL dress up...

It really doesn't... Whatever camo you use, whatever the colour will fail or hinder you if you silhouette yourself, rattle, clank and poke around a black gun with sharp edges... It's not a question of suitable colours... It's field craft.

.... Standard...

Or you silhouette yourself against the backdrop, or add loads of black mags and carry a black gun, or refuse to use cover properly, or put yourself against bad colours, or make the world's supply of noise, or don't stow your kit properly, or move too quickly, or pick bad routes... I've yet to see anyone use camo well... Anyone at all...

All pistol triggers and aeg triggers can be lightened. The trigger operates a sear, which can be tuned, same as a real steel version. The rest is spring tension...

I've come to the realisation that camo is pointless... It's never used properly and usually is completely ruined by other kit... Unless you plan on doing it right... I'd save your money. Last time I was out, not one did any of the 120 players use their camo properly.

That's the thing deek... Someone has a rif... They could have been given it They could have owned it before the act They could have brought it without any defence, from a shop or privately They could have made it They could have painted it from an I.F They could have brought it legally from a shop or privately There's absolutely no way of ever knowing... Makes a shambles of the entire thing. First time I showed up with a rif, I was told I was breaking the law by owning one without a licence... By "experienced" people... It's mental :-)

And... There's no laws around the ownership, as long as your old enough. Also not illegal to buy them without ukara... Only sell them... It's a throughly useless thing.

And that's my point... The act doesn't stop anyone doing that. Nor did it stop me buying a rif, nor does it stop the 3 shops mentioned in this thread alone, from trading... And if you were to call the police to inform them of this breach in UK law... Nothing would happen. Feel free to try. Nothing we do will stop a bank robber painting his gun black, or stop some kid waving his in public... Nothing. Not a singular action or inaction...

It really won't... You take a perfectly legal two tone. A £6 can of spray. You now have a rif. No-one of any consequence will ever know that it's happened. It's unregulated, impossible to track, and very much like American gun law... Now so far past the information gathering stage that is impossible to claw back. It's an entirely non existent issue... It's an entirely silly bit of admin.

I carry mine on a serpa belt clip, modified to work drop leg, but high. I find normal drop legs sit too low. Mine sits about 4 inches below my belt... Saves it flopping about. Locks the pistol down really well. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v66/Glaive/IMG_20140719_122203_zps2m8edkvf.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v66/Glaive/IMG_20140719_122329_zpszllmza1_edit_1408179241211_zpsxpxus1rl.jpg That gives me clearance for the grenades, just above it.