ak2m4

Make Airsoft Great Again

Make Airsoft Great Again

Make Airsoft Great Again

Welcome, Great first post, can we expect much of the same in the future ?🤣

Playing a bit fast and loose with the use of the word "budget" there, aren't you? They average anywhere between £65-£80 a pop! Great motors and I've used a few myself but I wouldn't call them a budget option.

Sad: you didn't get what you ordered.
 
Glad: it didn't just get destroyed followed by a knock on the door for importing a Section 5.
 

SHS High Torque/M100 Spring/7.4V LiPo. Lasted one game day before the error LEDs went into christmas tree mode with gun stopping every half dozen shots.
 
It was an Early Edge model though, with an early production X-ASR. But I wouldn't trust the V1s for reliability. At least they are plug'n'play meaning that V2 could be dropped-in easily.

Hi

The IFRIT is a fairly decent motor so defaintely worth trying that out.  Most popular motor I sell is the XT 22TPA, then it's the SHS HT - from what I can tell they've reduced the speed by 15% making it more torquetastic which is a good thing.

Battery wise is always a little more complicated.  It's so hard to tell you exactly what to buy because there's so many variables involved.  It's about experimenting little to see what works best.  

Ahoy and welcome. Just about any aftermarket motor is going to be better than just about any stock one.  The SHS is well regarded, as is the XT from AK2M4.  Personally, I use Big Dragon M140 motors from AliExpress as I'm a cheapskate and chisel every penny.
 
Dunno about the Ifrit, but it's easy enough chuck it in and see. Most long shaft motors will fit most AR grips and V2 gearboxes, although there's no real standard and you might find that it's tighter or looser or a slightly different length or needs the spade connectors crimped down or opened up or...  Chuck it in and see, the only consideration is matching the +ve contact, which should be marked with a red post next to it, to the +ve wire, and then adjusting the motor height if necessary with the screw in the base plate - just go by the sound, you'll hear it screeching on either side of spot-on.  You don't need any tools beyond a screwdriver, and ideally some needle nosed pliers to fit and remove the connectors and wiggle it out.
 
11.1V will help significantly, even with the stock motor, so again, try it and see. You already have have an X-ASR mosfet to protect the trigger contacts and prevent arcing. You might experience double-shots on semi (where the motor spins so fast that it completes another cycle even after the trigger trolley resets).  Fitting the M105 might sort that, or it might not, and you might only see it with a meatier motor (or you might not).  There's only one way to find out.
 
Battery, spring and motor are pretty easy. If you do want to take it further, you're looking at a pre-cocking mosfet like a Perun AB++ which means some soldering (and you might as well replace all the wiring with thicker stuff while you're doing that), and/or short stroking, and/or fiddling with the gearing.  Just be aware that you'll start spending more and more to chase smaller and smaller improvements.  I find with a Big Dragon M140, 11.1V and a mosfet and decent wiring, that even a stock gearbox will cycle about as fast as my mags can feed.

yes sorry, that's what I meant. 
 
also could have been someone used some non-silicone grease and it's degraded the rubber on the pad, even with no load on the spring will create a nice pretty pattern on the pad 🙂

Surely in an uncompressed state, but with the preload of installation?
Leading to the same thing. Rubber is soft and that alloy looks sharp.

there's a few video's on YT which explain how to check the compression.  Those parts look ok.  The cylinder head pad has taken a little beating but should still working ok.  Also check your bucking and hop chamber.

Looks to me like the aeg was left for a few weeks / months with the spring in a fully compressed state - imprinting onto the cylinder head pad.  

there's a few video's on YT which explain how to check the compression.  Those parts look ok.  The cylinder head pad has taken a little beating but should still working ok.  Also check your bucking and hop chamber.

[Cross posted]
 
Have you received any firearms declaration or exemption forms yet?
 
I ask because, strictly speaking, something capable of over 1.3J and auto fire is a Section 5 (1) (a) prohibited firearm, as daft as that sounds.
 
Since you haven't received it yet, you could file a dispute with the seller or your payment processor. That would be a bit of a dick move, but on the other hand, a commercial seller should know fine well that it's a no-no to send a 1.4J autogun into the UK to begin with.
 
If you do get a knock on the door or a nastygram from Border Force or the police, say nothing, admit to nothing, and get legal advice.  Firearms convictions are no joke.

You've obviously never had a teenaged son try to make an omelette in one... RIP teflon pan.

Perhaps Chinese seconds are like Chinese lumens, or airsoft metres.

It's not so much the length of the motor that's a problem, more that the space between the bearing point and the back of the motor shell is less on a brushless motor. If the motor was shorter but still the same sort of profile then you'll get the same problem.

The one question I have (and this is hearsay, so mind yourselves), is that I've heard most airsoft brushless motors actually incorporated a ramping program specifically to slow down the startup, as early models had a habit of snapping their shafts. No clue where I heard this, but maybe something to look out for...

You misunderstand me. I used to use 1,1,1, Trichloroethane to clean stuff in an ultrasonic bath when I was an apprentice. Before a) it was banned or b) airsoft was invented. Also - you really shouldn't used Trich in an ultrasonic cleaner, it's flashpoint is really quite low!

I do in everything but my MP5 and AK cause it's a near full disassembly for them and I cba.

@Tactical Pith Helmet  gas only days at the Mall were simply the best...

Isopropanol flex incoming 🙂
 

Yep, and makes sense due to the high tooling costs. 

A few years ago I wanted a Chinese motor factory to make me a motor similar to the Taiwanese / ASG versions that were out.  This required all new tooling etc and I was quoted around $100,000.

In regards to the Paragon motor, I didn't even think about startup speed or parallel winding (again whatever that may be).  I did however think about the motor shaft thickness and CNC pinion gear (samples are on their way now)

For EZO bearings these I decided against as it would have added an extra £10 onto the price and the ones I use are high grade and seem fine so far.

One thing Michael from Paragon did pick up on was that the T238 was quite a bit shorter and did say it caused some issues on some builds, hence why there's is longer.  

Something interesting is that bargain basement Chinese motor manufacturer Chaoli is also now selling brushless motors.
 
Maybe this is one for @ak2m4 but I'm assuming, like a lot of electronics, there may only be a few genuine manufacturers of brushless motors and a lot of what we see is from the same sources with different branding applied? (the products from many vendors look identical, just with different colour anodising / logo's applied).