Lozart

None of that is anything beyond experimental proof of concept. I don't think it's "in use" as such yet, is it?

The F2000 is a big old lump of a gun! Nice but not smaller or easier to manage than any other rifle sized bullpup. Maybe a P90? Small, light, maneuverable, accurate. G&G do a nice one as do TM.

Interesting set of requirements from a newbie! Certainly sounds like you know what you want. What has driven you to this budget/spec? I'd say have a look at an ICS L85 http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-bulpup-guns/ics-l85-a2.htm#.VDZeyvldWSo Not sure on weight but it's a bullpup, takes pretty standard internal parts, uses STANAG (M4 style) magazines and it's £100 under budget. The TAR21s all have issues to some degree or another and the UAR is like hens teeth and apparently (I've never held one so I can't say for sure) feels very plasticky and cheap.

Stain mahogany and finish with tung oil. If there's a branch of Axminster power tools near you they will have everything you need.

Sounds cool. Not sure about the available slides for KJW but there's a wealth of aftermarket stuff out there. If you're not married to the KJW idea though the nickel MkIV suggested in Eds post might be an easier option!

This post raises several musings for me. Firstly - just what kind of childhood did you have if you used to wonder about stuff like shear thickening fluids? Were you raised by physicists? Are you Leonard Hofstader? Also - there hasn't been a Birds production facility in Birmingham for years! It was move to Banbury in 1964. The famous (notorious) explosion was there in 1981. Also - non Newtonian liquids would do three parts of fuck all against a nuclear attack. It's not exactly known for its radiation proofing abilities! (and yes - I realise you were only semi serious but I'm tired and grumpy so nerr)

If you can find a gun with a slide that looks right and DOESN'T have engraved trades then yes a sand and laser etch should do it. However, bear in mind that the MEU has two sets of cocking grips on the slide and the wrong style of sight to be a true replica. The standard 1911A1 also has the wrong sights but does have the one set of cocking serrations. Also - grips. The Pachmayr wraparounds can be had but the only ones I've seen with the hitman emblem on have been standard 1911 style ones. That said the game wiki shows a version with standard Pachmayr wraparounds so it's your call http://hitman.wikia.com/wiki/AMT_Hardballer

That IS an odd looking beast! I don't know that you'll have a lot of luck with that though as it is a night vision sight. There's not a huge call for replicas of anything that isn't US either (just look at the lack of decent AK scopes) hence the wealth of Aimpoints and EOTechs.

Burst Wizard does that too: http://www.aegwizard.com/ (I'm not on commission by the way just offering alternatives) My Burst Wizard is only plug and play bcause I only use it to give me a single shot burst on an M249 for a CQB site that requires semi in most areas. By leaving it plug and play I can easily whip it out and go back to full auto lunacy!

Scratch that, the Hardballer I linked to IS way to long, you're right. Are you looking to do a film version or game version? The guns in the film are Para Ordnance P18.9's http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Hitman_(2007)#Para-Ordnance_P18.9 as opposed to the AMT Hardballers in the games http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Hitman_2:_Silent_Assassin#AMT_Hardballer which have rear sight placement that is different to the 1911 MEU. In a similar way to the STALKER thread I guess it depends on whether or not you want an accurate replica of the screen/game used gun or just something that looks a bit like it. The former will be quite tricky and potentially require some custom work (there's plenty of people out there that have already been down this route) but the latter should be relatively easy. As you say the grips are readily available (if not exactly cheap) and then it's just a case of polishing the bejesus out of a metal 1911.

True, but it would make them fire from the piston being to the rear which is effectively "an open bolt" in real gun parlance.

Silverballers are longslide guns.

Soooo....basically the same as Warfighters then?

WA used to make a Hardballer replica which would actually be a better starting point if you want it to look right.

Don't use Halfords paint. It's almost universally shite. If you want a GOOD metal finish use Alclad and follow the instructions OR get a metal framed gun and polish it.

I have a version 2 on my M249 in plug and play mode. WOrks fine for what I need. The instructions say it does precocking but only if it's wired in and I've not tried it as it's not a function I need on a support gun!

Trigger switch will fail but can be fixed with a £3 one from maplin. Accuracy is so-so but fine for a support gun.

Trigger switch will fail but can be fixed with a £3 one from maplin. Accuracy is so-so but fine for a support gun.

I have a single point Magpul MS2 copy. Don't like bungie slings for all the reasons mentioned above - they hang too low and if it's a cheap one they bounce when you run. The MS2 is a "non-bungie" single point and if you adjust it properly your gun won't be impaling your knees the whole time. I do use a three point tactical sling on my M4 from time to time and personally I don't find the strip that runs the length of the gun to be an issue but it depends on the gun and the user. Single pint slings on guns with ambidextrous style mounts (such as the Magpul asap on an M4) make left to right transitions easier than with some other slings but again, a lot of that is actually down to practice and using the weapon correctly.

I run all my guns on a 7.4v LiPo and it's absolutely fine. Semi and auto depend on site rules. Lots of CQB places are semi only for example (not an issue if you're a woodland player though usually). If you're concerned that the gun isn't working properly, take it back and get it replaced before you leave it too late. My M4 used to lock up on semi loads before I 1) fitted a mosfet and 2) learned to control the trigger spamming a bit. A lot of it comes as Samurai said from not pulling the trigger back fully and allowing the gearbox to complete a cycle before trying to fire again. If you want to fire a load of rounds, use auto as you say. That's what it's for after all!

If I had a pound for every time I heard that! The motors in G&Gs are not crap. They may not be the best platform for a massively upgraded gun but for the stock gearbox they work absolutely fine. One of the main issues (an "undocumented feature" if you will) with any standard V2 gearbox (as is fitted to M4 style guns like yours) is that in semi if you rapidly tap the trigger sometimes the gearbox doesn't do a full cycle and it can lock up. As you say, firing in full auto for a few rounds will clear it and off you go. Mosfets can help if they're any good but there have been quite a lot of failures of the G&G factory fitted mosfet when used with 11.1v LiPos so I wouldn't suggest that as a next step. By all means get it replaced by the retailer but consider a mosfet upgrade to a third party one if possible (I use a Gate NanoAB but there are plenty of others out there). You want to try and get a mosfet that will force a full cycle and stop accurately each time you fire on Semi so the cheap plug in ones aren't great, you'll need to look at one that hardwires in to the trigger contacts ideally.

Depends if you want to keep the blowback though. On the Raider it's just a bit of noise really, it doesn't lend much in terms of recoil.

Sorry, saw the picture and assumed they were a standard pair of Trackers.

They won't work with prescription glasses. Bolle x1000 goggles come in an Rx friendly version with a deeper profile to fit over specs. You can get them from Amazon.