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Everything posted by proffrink
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Sounds good. A PDI 6.08 isn't a wide bore or a tight bore though really. Maybe consider one of their 6.02s or .01s? It would mean that you don't have to use such a powerful spring, which would ease things off the motor and gears a bit, leaving you open to a higher ROF if you wanted it. Edit: Also, that Laylax flat(?) bucking and nub may be better suited to an R-hopped system, in which case the 6.08 is probably a better call. Hmm - choices.
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Cut Above. Or Business in the Front; Party in the Back
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Wide bore stuff is mostly foreign, that's why. It's also hella expensive to do right (because you will need other upgrades and time to make it work properly). Basically it originated in Japan (like most Airsoft stuff) where their site limits are very rigid (indeed, lawbinding) and rather low (regardless of auto, semi or bolt action. People started upgrading to wide bore barrels and offsetting the loss in FPS to bring their guns back up to legal limits (and benefiting hugely from significantly increased range). In the UK we don't really have that problem to such an extent - most people just want their FPS to be a bit higher for a bit less drop-off. There are so many tight bore manufacturers out there these days that the barrels are very cheap and generally of very good quality so most people go for them. But yeh, tighter is not always better and anyone that tells you that has probably never bought anything buy cheapo TBBs. It is true that for many tight bore is better, but if you are going to put the effort into a new nozzle, cylinder, spring, gears, battery, motor, hop and barrel then wide bore will win on range and accuracy. Granted that you're also happy to R-Hop it (or use some other flat hop). And yep, you're completely right - tight bore is about gas (be that air or propane or anything else) efficiency and spitting that BB out at the highest speed possible, but BBs so rattle in the barrel no matter how close to 6.00 you get and that's why flyers and other things happen. I can't comment on how much speed you'd lose, but it will be significant. Just don't upgrade only your spring or you'll have a very bad day indeed when something else chooses to fail catastrophically during a skirmish. You will also need a new nozzle/cylinder for higher output anyway and a new motor to drive that spring. Probably the only thing you could get away with not doing is changing the gears, but make sure you're well shimmed. Basically, be ready to commit a lot of time and money to a wide bore barrel or don't bother - It's a lot of hassle. Many people haven't the expertise, time or cash to deal with this and so they just go down the tight bore route (which does give a clear improvement in performance for very little work or money). Many will also claim that tight bores 'give better accuracy': This is very true over a stock barrel in your average AEG (which tends to be made from pot metal) but almost every aftermarket barrel (no matter how cheap) is going to be smoother and made to tighter tolerances than the one in something stock - thus resulting in improved accuracy.
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Are you sure that PDI do a 6.8? I know they do a 6.08 but that still constitutes a tight bore (or perhaps a 'normal' bore - if there's such a thing); I'd say a wide bore is anything over about .15. The differences depend on AEG or GBBR (whether you have an NPAS or it's HPA rigged) and what sort of barrel length you're going for. The overall difference though is that of range at the cost of efficiency (so a lower FPS). Personally I'm putting wide bore barrels in everything that isn't a pistol these days so long as I'm happy with a substantial FPS drop (which I find can be compensated for with other parts), but if it's a stock gun then the likelihood is that a tight bore is going to be a better choice for you. It really can depend. If it's a pistol then the answer is always going to be 'no', because frankly the difference will be negligible in such a short space (if you want accuracy in a pistol then go for a TK Twist barrel and a Laylax purple VSR bucking). AFAIK, the only well known manufacturers of what I'd call 'true' wide bore barrels are Prometheus/Laylax/First (with their 6.20 Delta Strike) and ORGA with their Magnus 6.23. I own both, but I've not fitted the ORGA one - I can report back once I've given it a shot (ehehe). The Delta Strike seems fine, but the plastic hope window (meant for r-hopping) was a bad call in the majority of cases, and requires a lot of work to make sure a proper air tight seal is present between the hope up rubber, plastic hop window and brass barrel. It is far cheaper than the ORGA Magnus though (costs about 60% of the price). tl;dr If you can afford to lose ~30-50 FPS (or make up for that loss elsewhere) and are prepared to flat hop/R-Hop then do it; If you can't then stick with a tight bore.
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I saw you post this on Zero In, and I must echo the sentiment of the above and the guy that replied to you there too: Moderating sales like that is incredibly hard because the value of many of these items is just subjective. One mans trash is another ones treasure and all that. The help is here though; if anyone is unsure then they can always ask. If people don't do their research then I'm afraid they run the risk of getting ripped off, but that's life unfortunately.
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I think he was kidding.
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Aye. That's why I love WGC and AEG Cart Asia so much. Heh. Back on topic! http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?259833-Tokyo-Marui-HK45-original-slide-and-barrel-set-plastic £40 2-tone slide.
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ShooterCB are brilliant for TMC and Flyye stuff too. I buy a lot of pouches from them. They also have some hidden, rather rare upgrade parts for GBBs, I've found. I used Sealairsoft before Christmas and had no troubles either - again, had some stuff that was non-existent anywhere else. Had a run in with Ebairsoft recently but they did tell me the product was out of stock (took them a few days) - they refunded immediately. Maybe they've been burned by so many chargebacks. Other than that, watch for their prices: They may say shipping is free, but that only means it's included in the price. Some stuff is much cheaper through them and some of the larger products are actually more expensive than buying it in the UK. Strange site a lot of the time.
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Agreed. Just bought from Tiger 111hk last week. They're decent.
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Not really. We really should make a thread but I think many of these are currently listed in the 'Places To Buy' subforum already. Try these (in no particular order): Scope and laser eHobby Asia (terrible minimum shipping price) WGC Shop UN Company (horrible search function - use Google advanced search and filter by domain) DEN Trinity Shop (horrible search function - use Google advanced search and filter by domain) AEG Cart Asia Tokyo Model Company And about 20 others that I'd have to rack my brain for but can't right now - the above are all ones I've used in the past 6 months or so. I'm sure other suggestions will flood in.
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I gotta say that I'm on the side of importing too with the extortionate rates and lack of selection here in the UK. Even with customs and shipping you'll tend to save a bit and get the colour or manufacturer that you want, rather than what's just in stock here at home. If you're upgrading something and aren't in a hurry then I really see no reason not to order from abroad other than the fact that it takes a it longer to search for these things and that you have to know the sites which are available (many have terrible search features or aren't listed very highly on Google).
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Correct. I used Glasses Direct but there are many others out there. You will need a hard copy of your prescription (in the form it was given to you by Specsavers or Boots or whoever). The instructions are here. You'll get your prescription back as soon as they authenticate it (which only takes a few days). There are loads of them. The V12s were issued to British troops but in true MOD style I imagine far too many sets were ordered. You can find them in various conditions between £10-25. Something like this set* comes with the interchangeable lenses. As for the inserts, you want the ESS VICE RXs; they can be had for about £10 from here*. Additionally, don't worry about removing the sample lenses from the ESS inserts - they'll do that for you. In fact, it's safer if you don't as they'll maintain their shape in the post. *Please do your own searching too. I only spent 2 minutes finding those listings and they may not be the best option.
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You don't even need him to be frank. Go to any high street optician and get a free test (or use your current prescription) then go to pretty much any online reglazing shop and send in your inserts. Plenty of companies do inserts for loads of their goggles - I use ESS V12s. I think with the goggles, inserts and scratch resistant/anti-glare, thin lenses I paid about 80 quid. All in all it took about 20 minutes of clicking to do online. 1. Find some goggles you like the look of 2. Find inserts that fit them (the majority of the top brands make their own for their goggles and glasses and they cost about £10-20) 3. Send off the inserts to a re-glazing shop like GlassesDirect with your prescription attached 4. Wait for the post to arrive (mine took a week) I too went to Tactical optician, but I didn't like the selection of goggles and thought many to be rather overpriced. It's a professional service I'm sure, but reglazing frames isn't rocket science, and so long as you've got your pupillary distance as a part of your prescription (which all highstreet retailers will provide to you if you need it, and you can even do it yourself if required) then you'll be golden and save a bunch of cash. Couldn't be happier with mine. Haven't had a single issue with them.
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Hm, if I'm sending mags by post I'm disassembling them in the future.
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I was under the impression that this was only gas containers that were filled with gas (gas that that wasn't air as your usual pressure, that is). How on earth they can know when it's above 1 bar by looking at it is beyond me, and that makes me think they've just started ditching everything that looks like it could contain something compressed.
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Never ever ever send anything worth over £30 to a buyer without tracking information. I really hope you can find him. I mean, if he is a legitimate scammer then bear in mind that PayPal don't provide buyer protection for airsoft guns, so he won't be able to charge back.
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I'd be very interested to see this thread if you can dig it up. I'm looking to get something holographic soon.
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How do you know when the magazine is empty in guns using M4 mags?
proffrink replied to Sacarathe's topic in Electric Guns
Or if you've got a GBBR the bolt locks back maybe, probably, perhaps (if you're lucky). -
Why do you guys even post in these sorts of threads? Just let the mods deal with it.
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There is a Daytona FAL kit. They're the shit.
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The 'What have you just bought' Thread
proffrink replied to Cameron364's topic in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
2 weeks is still "a while". Heh. -
The 'What have you just bought' Thread
proffrink replied to Cameron364's topic in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
A&K M249 Mk1 Tokyo Marui Kimber Tactical Entry II I think I'm going to stop buying for a while. -
Just don't expect them to last too long if you're constantly moving them about. The clips tend to wear down after a while and they just drop off
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The 'What have you just bought' Thread
proffrink replied to Cameron364's topic in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Flip up covers are naff. Get a polycarbonate one custom cut and fit it to the front by removing the lens retainer and dropping it in with an o-ring to offset it from the objective lens a little: You're looking at a fiver and 15 minutes of your time. Plus no one will be able to tell that you even have one. -
They're; horrible cheap and nasty and the parallax adjustment isn't brilliant on them either.