proffrink

For the stronger green gasses you may need to upgrade your hammer spring simply so that it knocks the valve hard enough to release the gas. Other than that, you're good - it's TM so won't really require any specific upgrades; it's one of the best right out of the box. Other than that, there's nothing bad about it really. The front frame screw tends to go after a while, but you can prolong it by putting epoxy in the gap where it's been formed in the mould. This is about a 15 minute job, doesn't have any effect on the chassis and requires very little skill: http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh623/e-luder/photocopy-3.jpg This thread is the best read regarding TM Glock parts: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=140496 If this is you first TM pistol then don't worry about gas escaping when you fill it (try to use a plastic nozzle'd can of gas to refill it to minimise this though) and remember to pull the follower back and fill the magazine with BBs holding it upside down and using a speedloader (this is hard to describe, but basically don't use an adapter and fill it from the top because this is pretty inefficient and will put undue wear on the lip). I can provide you with a picture if you'd like. Edit: Sorry, I should have read that you hadn't picked it up yet. Here's what I'd go through if I were buying it: When you're buying it just check that it cycles correctly (by this I mean that when you pull the slide back and release that it doesn't get caught on anything) and that the magazines hold gas. If they don't hold gas, I'd still buy them but get some money knocked off and use that extra cash to replace the o-rings (not a tough job, and disassembling/lubing the magazines is probably something that you'd want to be doing anyway). If the mags smell like arse then that's because the previous owner has been running propane through them without the applicable silicone oil, and nine times out of ten this means they'll be in awful condition. Other than that, if it works fine then you're good. We could go into taking a look inside to check the internals, but if you don't know what you're looking for in terms of wear then it'd be pointless. You may also wish to make sure that the safety is working (slide the serial tab under the barrel) - if you're into that sort of thing, heh. The only other problem I can think of is a warped/torn hop up bucking/rubber, and this will only reveal itself after a fair bit of usage at ranges of over 10m. It's about a £10 fix though, so not really a worry.

£80-100 sounds right given how available the Maruzen L96 clones are. 'Custom' paint tends to detract from the value anyway unless it's a proper finish like Cerakote. Sorry man.

Frankly I'm unsure. All the stories you hear of customs taking a dremel to airsoft guff is because they're guns with the Glock logos on them. If it's just a part then maybe they won't care; maybe they will. Obviously the culture is very different - the danger of letting a gun part in isn't there like it is in the UK, but its commercial value is and they are rather strict when it comes to letting anything they deem counterfeit being let in or not. Who knows. Hopefully it gets there safely.

Apart from the obvious, customs will actually consider any airsoft Glock trade marks to be counterfeit and will probably have the logo dremeled off. That's why you don't find a huge amount of them being used in the US. Just get someone to machine it in the UK.

Not from my friend's experience, but the break-in is around 5000 BBs, so there's that. I'll be R-Hopping it anyway.

I'm into GBBRs in a bit way. I'm certainly used to the maintenance From what I've heard, they're less temperamental than the WA platform anyway.

At the distances concerned there's going to be so little difference. The barrel length also isn't going to contribute too much to raising the FPS. That said, I like to do it anyway. I've found in some of the super old pistols that the barrels get very grimy and harder to clean when they're not as of such a high grade steel or brass. A TBB certainly wouldn't be the first thing I'd think to upgrade in a pistol though.

The Zeroin forums still get more traffic if you're looking to sell.

Daytona M249 kit. It's happening.

Yep, loads. Shipping is a little high but otherwise brilliant.

If you want the very best .28s then go for BB Bastards. Patrol Base stock them and they're the best ammo I've ever used in my WOC. They're pricey, but if you're not shooting more than 800 in a skirmish then it doesn't matter too much. Also, if it's a feed issue then it could be many things other than the ammo; check that your magazine is seating at the correct height.

Why did you put Vaseline in there? Don't do that again, heh.

As has already been said in this thread: UTG is a rebrand of Well which is, in turn, a clone of the Maruzen L96 (generally the APS-2), not the TM L96 AWS (which has the realistic magazine placement). Why on earth anyone would go as far afield as the US to buy probably the most reproduced airsoft gun ever made (other than perhaps the TM M3 and its clones) is beyond me. Grab a Well L96, or a Mauser/Cybergun. Frankly, they all shoot the same really. Buy a new cylinder, trigger, spring and guide rod from http://www.airsoftpro.cz/ before you think about taking it out. Oh and the obligatory 'don't buy a sniper rifle' is very much true - it's a really silly weapon to take to skirmishes. Even the one I've put a lot of money into isn't anywhere near my favorite thing to use.

Go with some goggles, prescription inserts and a lower-face mesh mask (or whatever you prefer). Here ya go (too lazy to write it all again):

£18 + £6 for shipping - that's about a quarter of the cost of your rifle. That Greek site sill ship to the UK and you'll have them within 5 days. You won't have to pay tax (obviously). Having said that, it's roughly £16 delivered for the ones from that site I posted too. *shrugs*

Little bit pricey, but they best I could find: http://www.greekairsoft.gr/eshop/product.php?id_product=1519 They're for TM, and the JG one is basically a carbon copy of it so you should be good. Also, are those twigs? Man that's ghetto.

TMC is good stuff. They and Flyye use a decent quality nylon and their stitching is good too.

Well, aside from the fact that that's assault, I'd imagine he just fancies himself a master trole.

I'm sure you do son.

Dunno about the rest, but for flash hiders in CW I'd look overseas as the selection here is very limited. It's all based upon your own taste so me recommending a particular flash hider would be silly. Check out Airsoft Peak and Emperion Airsoft as they have a fair few flash hiders in CW, but really it's just about some intense Googling to find one that you like. How much are you looking to spend on a holster and which kind do you want? IMI ones are about £30 each and readily available on eBay.

Lap kits for airsoft are super silly stuff given the tolerances we're working with. Of course HS would say they're necessary - he's selling them.

I took photos of nearly everything today because I've just unpacked most of them so why not. My very much WIP A&K M249. Got an MAG 2.5k box mag for it and a rail as well as a new barrel, dust cover and flash hider (not fitted). Daytona kit will be on its way soon too. My new, very old TM M9 with Zeke full metal kit and walnut grips for which I think there's a part missing* *Somewhat amusingly, the photo was taken ontop of a vintage HMRC crate, whilst the missing slide is stuck in customs at Heathrow. TM M1911 with a Hurricane Kimber Tactical Entry II kit My very old, very bastardised L96 that has so many parts from so many manufacturers that I can't really give it one brand G&P WOC TM G18c

Sounds good. A PDI 6.08 isn't a wide bore or a tight bore though really. Maybe consider one of their 6.02s or .01s? It would mean that you don't have to use such a powerful spring, which would ease things off the motor and gears a bit, leaving you open to a higher ROF if you wanted it. Edit: Also, that Laylax flat(?) bucking and nub may be better suited to an R-hopped system, in which case the 6.08 is probably a better call. Hmm - choices.

Cut Above. Or Business in the Front; Party in the Back

Wide bore stuff is mostly foreign, that's why. It's also hella expensive to do right (because you will need other upgrades and time to make it work properly). Basically it originated in Japan (like most Airsoft stuff) where their site limits are very rigid (indeed, lawbinding) and rather low (regardless of auto, semi or bolt action. People started upgrading to wide bore barrels and offsetting the loss in FPS to bring their guns back up to legal limits (and benefiting hugely from significantly increased range). In the UK we don't really have that problem to such an extent - most people just want their FPS to be a bit higher for a bit less drop-off. There are so many tight bore manufacturers out there these days that the barrels are very cheap and generally of very good quality so most people go for them. But yeh, tighter is not always better and anyone that tells you that has probably never bought anything buy cheapo TBBs. It is true that for many tight bore is better, but if you are going to put the effort into a new nozzle, cylinder, spring, gears, battery, motor, hop and barrel then wide bore will win on range and accuracy. Granted that you're also happy to R-Hop it (or use some other flat hop). And yep, you're completely right - tight bore is about gas (be that air or propane or anything else) efficiency and spitting that BB out at the highest speed possible, but BBs so rattle in the barrel no matter how close to 6.00 you get and that's why flyers and other things happen. I can't comment on how much speed you'd lose, but it will be significant. Just don't upgrade only your spring or you'll have a very bad day indeed when something else chooses to fail catastrophically during a skirmish. You will also need a new nozzle/cylinder for higher output anyway and a new motor to drive that spring. Probably the only thing you could get away with not doing is changing the gears, but make sure you're well shimmed. Basically, be ready to commit a lot of time and money to a wide bore barrel or don't bother - It's a lot of hassle. Many people haven't the expertise, time or cash to deal with this and so they just go down the tight bore route (which does give a clear improvement in performance for very little work or money). Many will also claim that tight bores 'give better accuracy': This is very true over a stock barrel in your average AEG (which tends to be made from pot metal) but almost every aftermarket barrel (no matter how cheap) is going to be smoother and made to tighter tolerances than the one in something stock - thus resulting in improved accuracy.