proffrink

Ya know what, I'm going to start translating the broken English to actual - if occasionally terribly spelt - English myself then pasting them here until either we stop just getting link spam and/or the translations are done properly (or just proofed). I'd be happy to do it for you if you get in touch, but it's so broken it's basically just the pictures that I check at this point. Won't use quote tags as that fades things out. Red is when I'm not sure about the translation. 5.11 TDU assault shirt

Are you sure that they exist? For purchase, at least.

Is that a typo or? 6.9GHz is insanely good (though obviously depends on the number of cores too).

The benefit is it has an incredibly stable, adjustable output and a very small (relative to the stock) spring that has a very short pull. I don't know why you'd think a spring setup is easier than an SDiK from what we've told you here but go for whatever you're happy with spending on of course. I should say I've now built a complete L96 in which nothing is stock but the stock and receiver housing, and I've just now done the same with a VSR where only the stock has remained unchanged and frankly neither was 'easier' than the other. 75% of your time is going to be in getting the hop right though - the rest is really basic. Putting an SDiK in isn't going to change that.

They are. I thought this was well known - they have a semi-partnership with Airsoft Pro. The cylinders, guides, springs, triggers etc. are all theirs, heh.

Actually it's the absence of perfume that makes it smell alright. Neat propane, by law, has to have additives so that you can smell a leak. Propane itself is odourless Source: Professional fart smeller/smart feller. Airsoft-pro.cz - Version 2 trigger (with the safety) and quick shipping times.

That's a shame. I would have filled my bag with upgrade parts to flog when I got home.

I'm not sure how the two things are in any way different in terms of performance beyond the fact that the SDiK can be quickly tuned without the need to fiddle with springs. CO2 will perform fine down to about -5oC. It doesn't contract anywhere near as much as propane.

Well, just give it that first 5k. Disassemble, reassemble and then do another 5k

So why are you saying this never used to happen? Good news is that it's almost certainly the break-in. Also, you haven't got to quote me if I'm to post above, lel.

It's your hop; you just switched barrel onto an R-Hop, right?

Build your own - there are 1000 guides out there and it's at the point now where the only thing you can screw up is dropping the CPU into place. You will get a good deal, but have a budget of £500 I'd say. The reason that thing is so cheap is the ludicrously underpowered GPU they have in there. Also, AMD are really far behind Intel and NVidia these days with their CPUs and GPUs. The GTX 900 series is incredibly good value. This really isn't the right forum for this kind of stuff though. Not that we're not happy to help, but I dare say you'll find far more expertise elsewhere. Look up the Newegg 'build a PC' videos on Youtube.

Double feeds? Again, FAQ man - double feeds and chewed up ammo is common for the first 5000 shots. Edit Especially as you should be running with zero hop right now until you're around 4000-6000 in. There's nothing holding the BBs back except the nozzle when it's forwards.

I would personally use a grease on metal/metal as it lasts longer and tends to pick up more dirt when you clean it off, but see what works for you. Thing with real steel lube is that they rarely need to consider what it'll do to an o-ring, so you just need to be aware that only lure silicone or specific seal lubricant should be near anything rubber.

AA aren't great at everything and a lot of their designs are very old. Their hop unit is great though.

I think we may have established that the savings you get from not buying a 90 degree trigger, piston, cylinder, spring and nozzle put a hefty dent in the amount it costs to just get an SDiKs and keep all the action stock. May be worth considering. If you want a 90 degree trigger then you should upgrade it all at once. You can get away with not doing the cylinder, but certainly the guide, spring, piston, nozzle (although you should be ok on this too) are good. Once you have the power source sorted though, the obvious accuracy comes from the hop and barrel. The Action Army hop unit is relatively new on the market and is getting good reviews, but plenty of people get excellent results from some simply DIY mods (the two things you want are a good airseal and even hop pressure) and a new bucking. Barrel wise, you get what you pay for (as you've probably guessed by now) - PDI, LayLax/Prometheus/First Factory, ORGA, EdGI etc - they're all great. I would still maintain a wider bore of 6.05 (even as high as 6.23) to counteract some of the 'expanding ammo' problems we've been seeing lately as well as working to provide a more consistent hop. Barrel spacers are also a good idea. PDI have free shipping right now via X-fire.org, so you can grab some for less than a tenner. You can even make your own with relative ease too. Whichever you do (action or barrel and hop) - do them all at once as two groups. Like I say though, consider the SDiK with CO2 adapter; CO2 is cheap and the cost may not be as much as you think once you factor in what you no longer need to replace if you were to go down the spring route.

There was never one to start with then most likely. Like Dave posted, there are o-rings made for the fill valves, but it's probably not worth bothering.

Yeh. I've noticed their new M4 and M870s have them OEM now. Like I said, some people were documenting issues with the aftermarket ones because it wasn't depressing the valve enough - not on all brands though. Can also cut some some silicone tubing as it compresses better than an o-ring. I did that and it worked quite well on the Glock magazines.

M249, right? Or have you attached a UGL to your support weapon? Heh.

Yes, but that's WE (who put silent fill valves in all their pistol mags) going from your profile on the left. Probably not the case with the Hi-Capa that there was ever one in there (TM haven't been putting in silent fill valves until very recently).

I've been led to believe the Abbey silicone gun oil is just a high viscosity silicone dropper (the spray can is a lower viscosity) - it seems to act very much the same as the GHK stuff I have, and I know that to be pure. The LT2 has additives so I avoid. Personally I use GetSome 1000, Frog Lube and just high viscosity silicone but it depends very much on the gat. Honestly though silicone is fine. Get some low viscosity for places hard to reach (like inside nozzles etc.) and high viscosity for everywhere else.

I think what's being drived at by Dave: If it's the external one then most TM GBBs aren't designed with a 'silent fill' o-ring, and that's why they spurt gas everywhere. I believe this isn't a fully rectifiable problem in all of their guns as adding your own o-ring on some brings with it some fulling issues (i.e. it not depressing the valve enough to fill the magazine fully). Not sure if that group includes the Hi-Capas though, so you may be able to add your own if it's annoying you. If it's the internal o-ring from the valve (i.e. the one you obtain threw unscrewing the brass from the aluminium tube) then yes, you very much need that like Monty says.

UKAPU kind of died though due to lack of interest. I think they wanted some sort of council of representatives thing and couldn't get the volunteers for many parts of the UK. Good idea though as UKARA doesn't do quite enough to represent players (choosing instead only to get rattled when commercial interests are at stake). I know the EU legislature can be incredibly frustrating at times, but hopefully this map will hopefully convince you - purely in economical terms - just what the EU allows us to do when it comes to competing in a global marketplace alongside the likes of China and the US: http://globe.cid.harvard.edu/ (click 'visualise the data'). Essentially the EU brings with it all the trade benefits of being a modern superpower as unified taxes, standards and import charge waivers are levied in favour of encouraging complex manufacturing processes that include many member states. Unfortunately it brings a lot of bullshit too, but no jurisdiction is ever perfect and lately the anti-EU sentiment is being leveraged at home to push domestic policies too. I'm not saying by any means that the EU is perfect, but we're still no way near the point where we're better off without them. Also we don't have the Euro so there's a bit of a safety net right there anyway.

It's one o' them silly FB links. Here's where it goes: https://ec.europa.eu/transparency/regdoc/?fuseaction=list&documentType=FEEDBACK& - you want to be looking at COM(2015)750/F1 Remember guys, if you submit feedback (button is on the right) then don't be a tw*t and please check your grammar.

Right.