Ian_Gere

Do you want a pistol to go with a loadout? Are you happy with loadouts which a Beretta would suit? Will you want several mags? If you do, maybe one which will share mags with your M9 will give you value added...

Krylon?

It's a talent. Have you had any trouble with the repaint? Did you use anything special as a base coat? Actually give us the full method and results if you don't mind. I ask because Nitro Mors wrecks car paint jobs, because it takes the 'whojimaflibbet' base coat stuff off as well as the paint. We had a discussion about this a while ago and iirc the active ingredients of FairyPS are not as alkali as NaOh. I expect it will say use rubber gloves on the bottle, but NaOh is a different kettle of chemical burns. One of these days I'm going to strip my SVD (she is a repainted 2 tone - before she came to me / not my fault / accept no responsibility) and I plan to see how well soaking the plastic hand guards in a strong sodium hydroxide solution works, because it ought to be cheaper, but also because I don't care if they melt - i'll just get a wood kit.

See if you can find one on here mate.

I live in hope that we'll get to see it on a fire at some point.

Of course it is. Nobody is going to ask anyway.

Yeah, it's for cleaning ovens. You spray it on painted plastic and wrap it up in plastic bags. Leave overnight and then scrub. IIRC anyway. Maybe u need to leave it longer, i forget. But it's gentle on the plastic, unlike stuff like Nitromors which could probably make a nice puddle out of a plastic AEG.

Better than bright green, my man.

Couple of Dream Army H-Nubs banged onto an order for 2 x Well R2 (Vz61 Scorpion) locaps $26 posted from KH Mountain - i'm pretty sure that they're going to say OOS, but we shall see. Anyway, this does herald the completion of the LiPo conversion I was doing (the first Gate Pico AB MOSFET turned out to have no semiconducting properties; in effect a wire but Frank @FS was happy to replace it tout suite).

I use dogpile.co.uk the search engine of champions. But I'll give it a go.

I can't get no... and while we're on the tunage, if i had a hammer... why haven't you got a hammer, Friz?

You know what counts as proof that you can legally manufacture an RIF? Anything. The Association of Chief Police Officers have called the law unenforcible and nobody but the kind of bellend who can't keep his nose out of everyone else's business cares anyway, so go ahead and either take the bright paint off (with Fairy Powerspray - look it up on yt) or paint it Kryptec for the giggles.

Yeah I'm hoping to get up there for a visit - it's not too far for me to go.

Welcome to the forums Personally I hate fb and there are more than enough airsoft pages that i wish i had never bothered to like, except that once in a blue moon somebody says something interesting and i kid myself that the last few months of what is essentially spam through my inbox was actually worth it. But I am probably known as the resident curmudgeon, so what do I know?

The SRC G36's need a better hop rubber too, but otherwise they are great guns. Bear in mind however that internally they are not compatible with TM or clones so many upgrade internals will not fit. That said, if you get a Gen 3, you wont need any.

Oh dear... that mask is going to fog. If you like AK's and you want rails and for CQB, have a look at a CYMA CM.028U - I had one as my 1st gun / bloody brilliant Needs a spring downgrade to get under 350FPS - twg will put a guarder SP100 in for the cost of the spring / they also need a battery cos the one they come with is bollocks. They do fine with a Vapex VP 8.4V NiMh mini stick (componentshop) or maybe save yourself P&P and buy an 8Fields stick from twg with the gun and come back here and tell us if it's any good cos nobody seems to know The chargers they come with aren't ideal but they are totally usable, just check back for advice on how to proceed if you get a CYMA gun. My JG Scorpion is good and I expect the ASG one is, but as above, not for a first gun. The stock trigger response will not do and it really needs a TBB too.

I want "FUCK OFF" in the same hollow font as the Heckler & Koch trademark on my USP slide.

Too far away for me, but it sounds like an interesting environment. Sound system? Welcome to the forums

^^Good points, Russ. Why, for that matter, do they bother putting V2 gearboxes in anything? V3 are superior and there are further refinements in other types. Here's my main gearbox whinge though: why hasn't someone come up with a way to tension the main spring after the shell has been closed? I want to be able to get my gears and bits all nicely lubed and placed and then be able to fit the top/right hand shell half on without some finger contorting knack that works for some manufacturers' boxes but not others, or leaving the trigger out and using the other knack which runs the risk of damaging bearings, but is fine for bushings. I forget which box and manufacturer, but i vaguely remember reading someone say that there was an anti-reversal latch that could be tensioned from outside, which is such an obvious idea that doing without it is sooooooooooo annoying! I also want to shoot hotter guns at people, like in the USA, or Russia even. But I don't want to injure anyone or get injured, so I want foolproof face and eye protection that is modular so it can fit anybody, doesn't fog up at all, no matter how much of an unfit sweaty bastard I may become, but also allows easy access to my mouth so I can drink from a canteen/bottle or hydration bladder tube, eat sweets, or smoke without compromising eye safety or taking ages fiddling with straps. It also needs to be airy so it doesn't make you sweat more just by wearing it, like neoprene does. There must be the option to remove either lower cheek piece without weakening it or making the part which covers the mouth loose, so that those who are welded to the way of shooting which requires 'cheek-weld' to the butt stock of rifles can do so without issue. There should be a standard fitting for prescription lenses and the forehead section/s need/s to have options to allow it to be used with military helmets. Finally it must look cool. In my mind's eye I'm seeing something with an underlying scaffold built from modular arms which lock onto a central triangle. There are small pads, about 1cm round with a peg that fits into tracks in the scaffold parts and lock in place, so that there are very few points of contact with the face - a choice of harnesses, like gas mask strappage to attach to the scaffold to hold it on. Exterior parts made from pre-stressed tempered steel wire (stainless or anodised, but resistant to corrosion even if paint chips) </=0.71mm (inc any coating) #8 mesh*, with pegs that lock into the scaffold. There would have to be polycarbonate lens options as well as mesh eyepieces. Actually, the best way would be to market the basic parts and invite other companies to create their own ranges of options which would have to pass your standards of safety and reliability to be listed as approved for use with... *This is the approximate threshold beyond which mesh becomes difficult to ignore when looking through.** The trouble is that the available SS304 and SS316 meshes of this wire diameter and per inch count are not sufficiently stiff to resist BB's at the muzzle energies we already use, as they come from the factory anyway. I have some replacements for the polycarb lenses in my ESS Advancer V12's which I made from SS316 0.71mm #8 mesh and by curling each strand back around a perimeter wire and forming the flat sheet into a convex lens shape I have increased the standard resistance to shots, but nevertheless, although I happily wear them in woodland games, I don't trust them for CQB where there is a considerable (as opposed to so unlikely it's not worth considering) risk of a fair few BB's fired full auto hitting exactly the same spot on the mesh - truthfully they would resist even that up to about 10-11, but there's a chance that further hits could penetrate before I could reach the safe zone. I haven't got around to oil quench tempering them, but I suspect this is the way forward. So much better to have an expert design a machine to do it neatly and insurably consistently though... **What matters is the diagonal dimension across a crossover between individual wires and past 1mm [√(0.71mm² x 2) = 1.004mm] it seems increasingly difficult for the eye to stay focussed beyond it, especially if it moves relative to the face (which is another reason why the whole thing needs to be able to be worn both very tight on the face, but comfortably so you don't keep shifting it), but trust me, these replacement inserts I have are like wearing nothing for seeing through, which is particularly good for sniping, but imo worth pursuing for all airsoft. To my mind even better would be something like 0.5mm wire #9 mesh or finer (to reduce the maximum dimension of any BB fragment which could possibly pass through), if it could be made stiff enough to resist deforming permanently as a result of BB hits.

Is it just me or are proairsoftsupplies.co.uk down? They have wombat machines at competitive prices too and may be the best place if you need a two tone, as we are no longer whole heartedly recommending ZeroOne, despite their free 2 tone service and free skirmish voucher, because the threshold has been reached, there is now no longer any doubt: they are bellends. Another good option is uk-airsoft.co.uk CYMA make good-to-very-good AK's and good M14's and at least 1 person on here swears by their MP5's, but I've never heard anyone say their CYMA M4 is worth recommending. re: plastic vs metal - you can't really generalise because pot-metal parts are very poor under any bending or twisting stress, but last perfectly well under simple linear compression or extension, whereas ABS plastic is a bit more forgiving but does not take well to disassembly, even that which is intended as part of routine use or maintenance. Reinforced nylon fibre (which SRC use for their G36 range) is what H&K use for many 'real steel' gun components and it would be my choice over zinc alloy for pretty much any AEG body part. But some manufacturers use aluminium alloy components, G&P and King Arms for eg, and these are usually very good and superior to ABS all day every day. Then some guns are steel - generally you will pay much more for these, but naturally they are the strongest components (i'm not aware of any titanium AEG's although I wouldn't be surprised if some yank has done it for the lulz) - exceptions to the price rule are CYMA CM.048, CM.048M, and higher numbered AK's and certain D-Boys AK's (the latter should still not be bought by beginners b/c they require internal upgrades to even show their faces on a skirmish field).

Ur a monster, BD. There seems to be too much to break or lose for me to risk buying a revolver, but I'm the next thing to brainless so maybe that's just me.

Revision are a good brand. I prefer mesh made of interleaved wires rather than stamped sheet, but I have a pair of Revision Bullet Ant and, with the right combo of anti-fog precautions and the dust filter foam removed (which doesn't compromise safety), they last all morning without fogging enough to make me wish I had something else on me face. after that the anti-fog treatments don't last as long, but generally over 30-40mins so ok for a game then reapply. My prep goes like this: 1 drop of Fog Tech liquid per lens wiped all over with a standard glasses cleaning cloth and leave overnight, then polish with the cloth which comes with ESS goggles (thanks James). I don't think I've ever had the presence of mind to prep them well in advance so I dunno if you have to do it the night before or whether you can do it whenever it comes to mind. But yeah, doing the same without the overnight dry only lasts for 45mins to an hour tops. Ppl often mention cheek weld when talking about 1/2 face masks - personally I don't weld my cheek to the stock when aiming, even with my SVD now that she has a low rise scope position. I'm not aware of having a particularly long neck, but with the butt well placed on my right shoulder/pec join (as I was taught by RAF Regt range instructors) and my right eye able to sight over irons, the stock of most guns is about 20mm away from my cheek and only leaning my head as far forward as it will go will put my cheek on it. This is not only an uncomfortable position for me, it also wouldn't work well with actual recoil because my view over/through the rear would jump violently with each shot causing my eyes to refocus close up. In the head back position the rear sight is smaller in my view, but the notch/pin hole is still plenty big enough to be able to see if the front post is a bit off either way - not that this actually makes any real difference in airsoft b/c generally sights are guides not actual aim points. Optics are always even higher - I dread to think what kind of hunchback posture I'd have to adopt to achieve cheek weld aiming through an Aimpoint T3 or ACOG, or a red dot on a G36E. However, mesh does bend. This type is better because the additional strap produces greater stability when you run.

I have one with a 25mm side release buckle and velcro and it fits on my USP comfortably - just put the thicker bit on the inside, the left if you're right handed, so it sits under your little finger. Other than that, gaffer tape and paracord will probably make a stronger loop than anything you can bodge by cutting holes in rubber and you can get coiled paracord lanyards for £4 on amazon.

CYMA M4? I may be mistaken, but iirc...

Oh shit, watch your backs!