Ian_Gere

the cheapest hands down but it'll be a week or so the best prices for quick delivery (1 or 2 days tops) Of course, if you can beat those prices, ak2m4, excellent! Let us know and I for 1 will recommend you to anyone who asks. You'll have to email Tommy/Emma sales @ bullseyecountrysport .co.uk to ask when they'll have them next (they are very helpful)

If I was a site owner, or if I become involved in promoting an event, I would ban non-seal glasses.

Not at all. If you want to risk being hit in the eye by a ricochet, Sawflys are the way to go. I doubt that any of the polycarbonate lensed offerings which people regularly use for airsoft would actually fail so badly that you would be shot in the eye, even those which are not rated for 2.32J (0.2g BB @500FPS) (which could happen if you were accidentally shot point blank in the face by a sniper... if, for eg, a sniper is concentrating on aiming down range and, like a penis, you step into the line of fire at just the wrong moment). Some products would crack, certainly, but stuff does tend to be over-engineered when a test which may result in a law suit has to be passed, and a crack does not equal a BB in the eye. But that is not the point. The point is that you could fit more than 1 BB side by side between the edges of Sawflys and most people's faces. We have 2 confirmed instances of BB's hitting people in the eye after bouncing off 1/2 face masks and getting between correctly worn eyepro (for those models) and the face, but that is not the only way a BB could approach your eye from below. If you look up then the bottom edge of your eyepro faces forward... how about when you are lying down? And BB's can ricochet off other things than masks.

I recently did some training @Skirmish and learned a fair bit that is useful in airsoft, but as above, it requires other people who also know the drill for it to be effective. Fire control orders, for eg. Weekend before last 3 out of the 4 of us who had trained together played on the same team and naturally we had the shorthand down - suppress the enemy to enable one or more people to close and fight through. But trying to get other people to either i. fire at the cover so the opposition can hear it and know they will get hit if they pop their head out (and keep doing it long enough), or ii. move out in the open under cover of suppressing fire, was the same old herding cats story. I find it especially frustrating because my health has been so bad that i'm even more unfit now than when we trained together, so I know what to do, but i just can't do much it myself. I mean, what is so difficult to understand about, "Fire at the wood so it rattles. They'll know they're gonna get hit, right? And you youngsters that can run fast, get up there, and pop round firing." Apparently much... but yeah, sniping: I can't see me managing to improve my cardiovascular fitness much, if at all, this year, so I want to get better at sniping. I've read a bit and seen a bit on telly, but I think that learning with practical application would be better. But what I don't want is a day spent imagining I'm Mark Wahlberg, learning a load of RS tips etc that have no practical use in a skirmish. Has anyone been to a Stirling event?

Hmmmmm... black trigger contacts. That is evidence of more than micro-arcing, which is usual when the power runs through the switch and causes pitting in the surface of the contacts and grey/bluish/greenish-grey deposits. A MOSFET will prevent micro-arcing, but actual burning strikes me as a more serious problem. I would replace the trigger unit. A CM16 ought to have an M100 spring in it already, unless someone had downgraded it before you? Anyway you should investigate the cylinder compression and the air seal nozzle.

COUNTER TERRORIST, BATTLEFIELD, PERSONAL SECURITY DETAIL & AIRSOFT SNIPER TRAINING Stirling Tactical Solutions will cover selected aspects of CT BATTLEFIELD SNIPER and PSD on your chosen course for the day. The training days are designed to be progressive. Training during the morning deals with the theory and practice before going into 'live' style scenarios after lunch to develop your skills while under fire...... Each training session will only be able to cover a limited amount of the syllabus. Returning trainees will move onto further stages as their experience and participation progresses. Please look at the four courses below and choose which course suits your needs![/size] (link) Righto, so looking at this I see "TRAIN HARD - FIGHT EASY" and think "Absolute Cock"... you know? Not that there's anything wrong with the concept, it's just that I imagine it goes down well with the kind of person who turns up to an airsoft skirmish with a MOLON LABE patch on their chest. But I wouldn't have got that far if I wasn't interested and I am, in the sniper syllabus to be precise. So the topic, friends, is this: are they any good?

I'd just like to chime in here with this: TM AK gearboxes are bollocks and if you want a plastic gun you can get one cheaper and better inside and out from ICS. Yeah, the hop units are good, but no better than CYMA and the CYMA rubber is better for accuracy. I'm with UTJ on this: top price guns are at best ok internally - as much as I might plan to leave a gun alone, the minute I sense it under performing whatever my chosen FPS limit ought to give me, the niggle in the back of my mind starts... "if I just put X in it" and it wont shut up until I do. But once the thing is opened up and I see the cheese bushings and macaroni nozzle, that's a new niggle... crack the box and find... a whole raft of crap i'll not be happy with until it's sorted. Well, if i'm going to do that anyway, no point spending a fortune to begin with.

Hmmm... you may be right, Liam. Nonetheless, there was no shipping cost to charge VAT on, so they definitely ripped me off.

I know what you mean, but if you think about it in more familiar terms, it's easier to understand. If 1 apple fell on your head Newton-stylee, you would bloody know about it; half an apple would impact less; a quarter even less, and 1/18th would be barely noticeable, if you were skirmishing or doing something else which required a bit of concentration.

As I said, emotion vs logic. If you feel that the risk of tripping over something because you can't see properly and being injured by falling onto something sharp is less important than the risk that 1/18th of a BB could hit your eye and somehow do so with sufficient force to hurt you (and think about how much energy the whole BB would have to have if 1/18th of it can hurt you), then that is your choice to make. My main point here is that shooting glasses and mountain biking eyepro are not suitable for airsoft.

That's not what it says on the Customs & Wankers Excise webby, iirc. But either way there was no shipping charge - it was 14385 Yen which PayPal already ripped me off on by charging me £88 to pay (as opposed to £83-odd) so, although I realise it's pointless arguing, I am going to chase it up once I have the barrel on Tues (so it cannot get delayed) - fuck it, I'm borderline disabled: I've got nothing better to do while I wait for meds to allow me to actually do something constructive than whinge over a few quid / i'm sure those few quids add up to a fair sized xmas party if they're doing it to a lot of people.

Yeah, I replace empties in mag pouches during the walk of shame/luls; sometimes reload them from a speedloader too, especially if i'm out of breath and need to take a moment. But in the meantime, a drop leg dump pouch is secure, no matter what, whereas an open top pouch isn't - only gravity keeps anything in it. I rarely end up with more than a couple of mags in mine, but having the capacity is still useful. Maybe it's just me, but I get really angry with myself for losing things - I manage to break enough stuff while skirmishing without having to pay for stuff from which I haven't even had the full use. Having a massive pocket is a lot more handy than ordinary cargo pockets too. On the way out of the safe zone I stuff my loaded rifle and pistol mags in there with my gloves and, depending on what else i'm wearing on my head, sometimes my 1/2 face mask - which allows me to get my arse in gear while still smoking and/or not yet stuck a mint humbug in my gob (my preferred anti-dry mouth precaution). In game I have used them for mission relevant items and recently also for the innards of used Thunder B grenades. Yeah, I could have used pants pockets, but when I'm wearing gloves I find it sufficiently difficult to feel what I'm doing that it slows me down / requires me to look at what I'm doing.

I'd call that not fit for purpose then, in which case f-s ought to pay the return postage.

^^They are not appropriate eyepro for airsoft. You will see people wearing all sorts of stuff, some of it that could withstand buckshot - that doesn't make it appropriate for airsoft. The only eyepro you should consider are types which seal against your face, so that no matter what angle a ricochet can come from, it cannot get between the frame and your face, because once a BB is inside your eyepro, even if it is not initially heading towards your eye, it could bounce off the interior. It has happened recently at Skirmish Airsoft Mansfield. Compare that risk with the risk that a fragment of BB could make it through mesh to hit your eye with sufficient energy to harm it - bear in mind that if a 0.2g BB has 1 Joule of energy and has Volume or 1.333 x 3.142 x (2.975mm)³ = 110.3mm³ then so long as the speed remains constant, the energy retained by a fragment is the same fraction as its volume compared to the whole BB, thus half the BB has 0.5J, a quarter 0.25J and so on... Most mesh has holes around 1.5-2mm, but Hero Sharks (strangely enough, in this topsy turvy world of risk assessment done by emotion rather than logic, considered some of the safest mesh goggles) have holes 2.97mm across - but of course you can't end up with a BB fragment shaped like a sphere of 2.97mm diameter / approx 1/2 a BB in volume... ...actually this is where it gets much more complex, so maybe I'll start a new thread at some point to get to the bottom of it, but basically you need to imagine the BB 1st in the horizontal plane, then the vertical - if no part can be longer than 2.97mm, then discounting the infinitesimally unlikely possibility that fragments could be shattered off the outside all over, leaving a central chunk of approx 2.97mm diameter, then the biggest piece will have part of the original BB surface will be an equilateral triangle -ish shape, from above and also from the side, with each side of length 2.97mm where one side of the triangle is the shortest line between 2 points on the arc of the BB circumference, like this: ...which works out roughly at 18 tetrahedrons: ...or 1/18th of the Volume and Energy = 0.056J (If you're wondering about the volume, you may be interested to know that you're not the only one feeling slightly... ...challenged, shall we say? The centre of a tetrahedron is called the Mong[e] Point! The curved face which would be present on a BB fragment is missing anyway and that would be proper calculus so fuck it, it's about 6.11mm³.) But as I said above, that is to assume that the pieces continue to travel at the same speed as the whole, but of course they don't. When the BB hits whatever it shatters against, some energy is transferred to the object and some, although conserved as heat and sound, is lost from momentum (Mass x Velocity), so actually the amount of energy left able to hit your eye is even less than the Volume proportion, and this remember is the largest piece that could theoretically fit through the biggest holed mesh in airsoft: no wonder then that the one time I had a fragment of BB hit me in the eye through my Hero Shark Daggernose, it felt just like a bit of sand blown into my eye from a beach - irritating, but not damaging (because I didn't rub it). But if you can't be doing with 100% fog proof mesh, Revision Bullet Ant goggles are appropriately safe and, once you remove the foam dust filter, perform well at resisting fogging (but you will need anti-fog wipes as well).

If anyone feels like flexing their art-bone, I'm looking for a design featuring a Grim Reaper but instead of a scythe I want him aiming a bow. Cloak hood up, face on -ish, turned slightly to one side so the perspective makes the arrowhead pretty big / 4 colour: black (cloak & hood), white (skull, skeletal hands, arrowhead), chocolate brown (bow, arrow, background), dark forest green (cloak/hood highlights, background) - feel free to use any of the colours for high/low-lights / to make features contrast / as lines/pixels that could be embroidered to make colour shades.

Thunder B's are great IMO - I have 2. Not cheap though - 1 x 12g CO2 capsule and 1 shell per bang (you can get the shells from Bullseye for a decent price, but all the same it's still not cheap). Like so much in life they need a bit of TLC and lube to work correctly...

Well, it's unfortunate that you've already popped the gearbox because your initial problem is electrical and may well have been fixable without actually opening the shell. It could have been the trigger contacts jammed, but it could also have been a short circuit through some part of the gun body. You'd be best to have a good look at your wiring, even if you are planning to rewire, to find out if this could have happened and where, to avoid it in future. You should also have a good look at the trigger mechanism and see if you can replicate a jam - maybe you can fix it, maybe better to just get another. If you do get a MOSFET, you must pay great attention to making sure you do not get even the tiniest short, because it will fry the semiconducting properties of the thing. I'd say you may as well do it now while the gun is in bits, because they are the way forward. In my experience there is no benefit from silver plated lo-res wiring over ordinary 16AWG copper power cable well soldered, so don't waste your money. There is a small but noticeable benefit from soldering your motor connections rather than using spade connectors however. May as well swap to Deans connectors while you're at it, as they are noticeably better than either small or large Tamiya. SHS high speed gears are excellent / can't comment on Ultimate as I've never used 'em. The theory of using a high torque motor with high speed gears is that it makes up for the pulling power you lose with the lower gear ratio, but in reality, with the springs we commonly use in the UK, most standard motors will not struggle, especially once you have the gun wired with 16AWG, Deans & MOSFET. What is the base gun, btw?

Drop leg dump pouches are much more secure. The Condor ones are excellent quality - I'd say your leg will give up before they do, but to get more than a couple of mags in at once you have to make them lie flat with the curved edge facing your leg (unless they're short, but even then you'd have to place them inside carefully) / the issue is speed of use / you want to be able to just drop a mag in through the slot and forget it, knowing it will still be there when you get back to the safe zone, no matter what crawling around, running, jumping, etc. you might do in between times... The Viper ones are huge and secure - you can just drop mags in and let them find their own settled position. You probably could wreck one through hard use, but not easily. I've put cuts into the top of my two so that I can fit 2 G36 mags locked together into them and that hasn't caused them to rip, so that says something... The open top type are not secure at all. Sure there's a draw string on some, but the top is still basically open and if the draw string was tight enough to make it secure, that would take time to open then close.

Actually I've been skanked because the barrel was £88-odd and the shipping was free (not that they should charge VAT on the shipping but sometimes they do).

^^Where did that happen and under what circumstances?

V^^VGrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! ...PDI barrel

Oh dear... airsoftpeak.com, whose ads you've been ignoring at the bottom of the page, do a lot of G&P stuff and for about as good a price as you'll get anywhere, with free shipping... they also do a Big Dragon KAC long in black w/ Flash Hider for $34.99 posted. You are entitled to cancel any online order without giving a reason. If I were you I'd email f-s and also phone 1st thing in the morning...

I'd have thought the link between inertia and accuracy was obvious, Cap'n, but whatever... the plain fact of the matter is that the German 20mm cannon was a very effective weapon and whilst they may well have stripped the armour off it in latter production, that doesn't mean that it wasn't useful ,or even that the gun wasn't better with it. The Germans did have bigger fish to fry at the time, after all.

I got my best grenade kill ever with an Xplode mind, but that was because it went off in mid air so the targets had no time to run!

^^Yes, unfortunately UKARA do still have a de facto monopoly. The best thing about transparent as a 2 tone colour is that you can paint it inside with any cheap black spray paint, as well as externally, so when it gets scratched, unlike orange or green, it will not show. As soon as you are a skirmisher you can legally change your 2 tone into an RIF. Worth bearing that in mind, because if you get one which is painted, rather than made from brightly coloured plastic, you can just remove the paint with Fairy Power Spray.