Ian_Gere

we aim to please The red dot I have on my CM.048, is zeroed pretty well. It is perfect for windage (the left/right adjustment), but elevation (the up/down adjustment) is very dependant upon range - I have mine set for approximately 35m, which means I am often aiming up (ie my target is below the reticule). The reason I set it that way, is because that is the distance to the most convenient target, which I can aim at, out of my back bedroom window. In use the sight does not shake. I have also used a replica Elcan Spectre 3.4x zoom scope on it, and that held its zero just fine also (although due to the mount, having been adjusted for an SVD, and the scope's adjuster being quite limited, the reticule was just left of target, at maximum windage). It is quite heavy, and also tall, so if shaking was going to be a problem with anything, that scope would have caused it, but as i say, it didn't. I red dot I use is one of these. It does fit onto 20mm rails as well as 11mm: you just turn the clamps upside down. I now have it on a better mount made by ICS. Which is considerably more expensive than necessary, but I got it 2nd hand for a good price. One of these would do the job just fine.

It used to be very difficult to get a replacement flash hider, for the "trumpet shaped" 74 variants, but these days there is an A.P.S. 24mm +/CW ported typical AK-74 flash hider. And you can change the diagonal AKM 'compensator' (that is its proper name), for any 14mm -/CCW flash hider, like this for e.g., or AK-47 plain muzzle.

Not quite the same - it has electric blow back. Internally, the "high end" CYMAs are not so different, from the lower numbered ones. It is the externals which changed a lot, when they began the VFC clone range. So a CM.040J (for e.g.) is the same internally, as a CM.048. The CM.050A uses the same EBB, as the CM.046 - the bolt does not travel all the way back, the cocking handle is just connected to the piston, plus there is no recoil - it is just a 'fun' feature, and can be disconnected fairly easily. The steel folding stock on the CM.050A, has a good reputation for sturdiness. It will be not very different, if at all, from the real steel Romanian AIMS. Obviously it is not a 74, but we have also been talking about the CM.048M and also the LCT TX-63, which are both 47 variants.

Just got an email from taiwangun to say they have CM.050A EBBR's on sale...

Yeah, and TBH Ray Mears is a bit too in love with the whole 'noble savage' malarky for my taste. I mean, yeah, for sure there's a lot to be said for communing with nature stylee an ting, but the plain fact of the matter is that indigenous tribes people have hard lives and poor life expectancy because they have to work bloody hard pretty much all day every day just to feed themselves and when things go wrong medically, they have very few options. Whilst that may well leave a lot less time and energy available for existential angst, it also leaves little to no time for contemplating the beauty of life, which kind of invalidates the basis of the 'love affair' itself, in as much as it takes the very technological society we come from in order to appreciate the value of the 'simple beauty' of their lives, if you see what i mean... Reminds me of a story I heard about some travel writer visiting Australia who got himself invited to go hunting with some aborigines: they set off into the bush in a ute (no doubt wearing stubby strides, with a few tinnies in the cooler, a barby in the back, and heading for the bilafukinbong) and one of them shouts, "Roo!" So the driver swerved off the track and ran the fucker over - an hour later they're all eating roo steaks round the fire... and our protagonist is feeling decidedly let down

I'm not speaking for the Moderator team or Admins here, just my own opinion: you've turned up and, without making any attempt to contribute anything to our community, set about attempting to poach traffic - it's bloody cheeky, mate. Bloody cheeky.

Shit, PT, that's a real bummer. Is there any indication in the listings of which one is designed for use with the TAG's and which is the one you bought?

Hmmm, i'm not so sure - being so far forward means that a tube becomes wider in the vision when viewed from an angle, and part of the functional coolsies of red dots is that you don't have to be staring down the sight, and thus psychologically fixated on what you see beyond the reticule to the exclusion of the rest of your visual field, but rather that you can just look forward and the reticule magically tracks with you no matter what slight angle running or leaning has added to your aim. I think T1's are better closer where that 'seeing the side due to angle of view' stylee an ting is minimised. Having said that, at closer distances to the eye it may be better to use a wider tube, 40mm even 45mm, because close to the eye the frame can almost disappear from view if it is big enough. But of course that makes it more likely that it will be shot out, unless you put one of those stupid looking rail mounted protector screens in front of it, or fit your own taped on bezel; more likely to get caught on your webbing too, I spose; and let's have it right, those fat tubes are seriously uncool as well...

Re: zips vs water - if there is a sealed tongue/bellows type of thing behind the zip, yeah they should not cause a problem, but if it's just two flaps, no matter what the manufacturer says, capillary action will make water migrate through the gap as you walk so, if your boots stay wet for a while, your socks will get damp. "Waterproof" is a bit ambitious when applied to Magnums IME - water resistant yeah, but the two pairs i've had both went bin-wards after falling apart due to being damp. Comfy though. Edit: you can always add lace in zips to lace up boots. If you make sure to get the ones made from leather, rather than the PVC/whatever type, they can be done up very tight across your instep without tearing the eyelets out (experience talking) which, if you have slim feet like me or just prefer your boots tight, makes them no different to laces for comfort but a lot easier to get on and off (for eg if you have an itch).

You're right! Such a long time, and so many brain cells, ago... I used to know the woman who was the inspiration for the character "Life Sentence" in "The Ballad of Halo Jones" - mental: i can remember her and how accurate the drawings/paintings in the progs were, but i'm fucked if i can remember her name!

I've tried my 551 on the upper handguard of my tac AK - didn't get on with it: the reticule is fine but the sight frame is pretty large in my view of the target plus it makes the gun front heavy (and that's without AA batteries). Although it has to be said that my 551 has an EOLAD laser on the side... I expect a C-More/clone would work very well there though.

Oh I'd not just love a decent M41A, but the armour & helmet with working electronics and one of those funky looking pistols Gorman uses as well. I'm hoping that eventually I will be able to get a Battlestar Galactica loadout together - the OD fatigues with faux suade shoulders, an HK police vest that actually fits me, the belt with dual holsters, 2 x FN 5-7's with underslung launchers (and some electronic means to set off Goblin shells from the launchers) and a Beretta CX-4 Storm AEG. A Strontium Dog loadout with a computer monitoring realtime comms for keywords and interjecting 'relevant' phrases from gun, helmet and backpack over the comms net... Actually, while I think about 2000AD, an Joe Pineapples suit would look amazing and be majorly impractical to skirmish in Site wise, I'd love to set up a site with a buried grid of high pressure airlines feeding loads of those cone shaped air cannons full of dirt they use for explosions in films, so that you could program artillery into skirmishes.

I find it hilarious that something called "Policeman's Heel" is also called Fasciitis!

^^I linked you to the CM.048M above - it is an AKM-47 (the receiver, gas tube, flash compensator, and pistol grip, are slightly different to an original AK-47).

iMax B6 + Power Supply or iMax B6AC or look on amazon or fleabay for them

Yeah - my whole reason for buying it is the irony. I mean shit, without the red and black it's still 'kin hilarious!

Which is a bummer - but it didn't actually do you any harm, did it? If it did, I'll guess that you rubbed your eye before rinsing it with water to get the fragment out... I'm definitely heading towards thinking fan goggles are the way forward though.

Yeah, but no need to be inaccurate or talk up UKARA any more than necessary. It's about 'legislation creep' - if we behave as if UKARA is a licence, it may very well become one. It's not difficult to say, or understand, "If you change an Imitation Firearm into a Realistic Imitation Firearm by changing its colour, you must use it for airsoft, film making, or re-enactment, etc otherwise doing so is illegal." Thanks for the rest of the info. It does look standard TM compatible. As Samurai said, even that hop unit looks as if the non-standard block is a bolt on part, so it should be possible to make a good hop unit fit. I'd definitely get rid of that barrel - any old proper 6.08mm barrel would probably be better. The hop rubber could probably be a lot better also, and may as well add an H-Nub while you have the hop apart. I'd also follow Friz's advice about direct wiring instead of those connectors, as well as soldering the motor connections when you get the new GB. You know the stock spring in a CM02 GB is about M125, right? I have to say I'm tempted.

You may be opening yourself up to a world of hurt fitting a high speed motor with high speed gears - by reputation I'd say that the G&P M120 motor will handle the additional torque required when using high speed gears, but the problems will come from how fast the GB then cycles. It will be very fast. Parts which I would expect to fail include the piston teeth and the cut off lever, but the tappet plate and its spring may also suffer. You definitely will have to fit a delayer to the sector gear, or BB's will not feed - I would use one of the funky shaped plastic ones because they create a wider cam than the circular brass type, which holds the tappet plate back slightly longer; they can also be fitted either way up which gives you a choice regarding the timing of the delay; and, of course, being plastic, they are easily reshaped if the timing needs to be tweaked (which it may very well need to be at such high cycle speeds). Unless you have bought a MOSFET which controls ROF by variable resistance, as well as active breaking, I would stick with a pretty standard speed motor. I'll be interested to find out how well the G&G stock motor performs with the gears, specifically whether you get the kind of initial trigger response you expect compared to the new ROF, because I suspect that it may not be quite torque-y enough. An SHS high torque motor or ICS Turbo 3000 would be good choices if the stock one proves insufficient.

It is not the buyer who needs the defence, the defence applies to the seller so long as the gun will be used for airsoft. Yeah, but that is not how it works in practice, right? Nonetheless, that is the law. So, for instance, when UK retailers say that they can only sell 2 tone guns to the parents of under 18's who are airsofters, they are just playing along with the money making scheme which UKARA actually is. In fact a photo of that U18 airsofting would be proof that the gun was intended to be used for airsoft, just not by the purchaser - but the VCRA doesn't say anything about who actually pays for it, only that the RIF must be used for one of the specified exempt purposes, to which airsoft was added under the provision which allows the Secretary of State to add to them.

I suspect that a lot of youngsters want an airsoft sniper rifle because they imagine that it will be like a game: that you put the cross hairs on your target and, from sufficient range that they cannot shoot back if they even see you, pop them in the forehead. No, it's not like that. At all. Even with a £700 upgraded gun the air conditions affect the trajectory of the BB so much that, at long to extreme range (whatever that range is for that gun) the BB has slowed so much and is so light that a good fart makes it drift off target, let alone a breeze. Also to get to extreme range the trajectory of the BB is a pronounced parabola, which sounds complicated but really isn't... if you imagine that your sight is zeroed for targets at 70m, in still air the BB leaves the muzzle and rises to the peak of its trajectory then drops and hits somewhere on a level with your cross hairs, but if the target is even 10m closer the BB would sail over their head, if the target were as little as 5m further away the BB could have dropped so much that it has hit the ground in front of the target, or the cover they are hiding behind. Obviously you can learn the characteristics of your gun and get good at using it, but it takes a fair bit of practice. In the meantime, while a 420FPS L96 may have a 10-12m effective range advantage over most of the AEG's in the hands of the opposition, even a knackered old sod like me can rush that distance in 1 second, but a novice sniper cannot recock their gun and reacquire me as a moving target in that time, and as soon as I'm in range I will fire a full auto burst before diving for cover - at least 1 of my BB's will hit... and this kind of thing will keep happening all day long. The up to 80FPS extra we are allowed from bolt action sniper rifles (BASR's) will increase that effective range advantage, although not by as much as the difference between 270 & 350FPS for eg, but the moment you increase the power of the spring, the trigger mechanism is put under more strain and fails much sooner, so you need upgrade parts for that too, and once you can fire 75m crouching-man-sized-target-accurately you will come to the attention of opposition snipers, and it's likely that at least one will have other upgrades which allow 80-90m accurate shots - so you'll get picked off early all day long again... so you need more upgrades, and at this stage, when you swap out one part for a better one, you are kind of locked into needing to upgrade several parts to get the best from the first, if you see what i mean... Trying to learn the game under those circumstances would be extremely difficult. I mean 'trial and error' only works if you get some successes With an AEG your son will have sheer volume of fire on his side until such times as more tactical awareness and marksmanship sinks in. TBH I would discourage anyone from messing about with even crappy BB guns on private land, unless it was literally in the middle of nowhere: the chance that you may accidentally shoot some random passer by may be miniscule, but the consequences of such a mishap are potentially so bad that the risk is just not worth taking. There is also the fear of being shot - people react really badly to feeling afraid and become vindictive. What really concerns me about unsupervised teens shooting each other with BB's though is the tendency youngsters have to be reckless and how 'uncool' it seems if you're the one thinking about saying "hold on a minute these things will have someone's eye out if we're not careful." But... but... but... nobody is daft enough to shoot each other in the face, right? Obviously you know what 'ricochet' means. The following took place at one of the UK's best marshalled sites: A small collection of photos... These things happen when people are wearing good protection, under trained supervision. That's not to say that airsoft is really dangerous - it isn't, but it is an adventure sport/hobby so you should expect to pick up small injuries periodically under the best of circumstances. Under the worst circumstances... and i'm by no means saying that your lad is a dick, but let's have it right, we all dicked around when we were 15, didn't we? Besides, assaulting/defending purpose built positions with a bunch of likeminded people has gotta be more fun than a few mates in some random field, right?

If you are going to reduce the length of the outer barrel from 14" to 10.5" and then put a KAC style suppressor on it (or any of the short M4 stylee ones), you will have a longer gun than you started with - only by 21mm, but there we are... no reason not to do it, but probably better for your wallet to be clear about the reasons for buying airsoft stuff, because it's addictive In this case it's not for any practical purpose but purely to look cooler... You'll also need to make sure that the inner barrel jams tightly into the outer barrel where it emerges, because any amount of wobble may allow the BB's will hit the interior of the suppressor, as well as ruining accuracy.

^^Yeah, I'll start a thread when I do the next round of upgrades.