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MorganL

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Posts posted by MorganL

  1. 1 hour ago, B4by_Dr1v3r said:

    Hey there!

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283588380472

    One of these could work, 20mm wide, 3mm thick - you use large heat shrink to keep it on, then trim that to clean it up.

    Here are some examples, including one torch!

    PXL_20210329_222920166.jpg

    PXL_20210329_222924396.jpg

    PXL_20201113_161556857.jpg

     

    That ebay link is for perspex and not polycarb, perspex is about as strong as the acrylic that he's broke. 

     

    I've been using 6mm acrylic as can cut that myself but polycarb is a right pain as its an awkard material to laser cut as it absorbs the laser so you need a special laser source or you can use a CNC router to cut out the discs, 

     

    I can make you some 6mm thick acrylic discs not had one break yet but don't think anyones been lucky enough to hit them yet. 

     

    Other than that their is the kill flash as above that works well if you can find the honeycomb in the right size and strength. 

     

  2. Not wanting to Hijack this thread but... 

     

    Does anyone have a list of ideal distance to zero sights, Red Dot, 3x, 5x, 8x etc... or is there a calculation you can use to work it out? 

  3. 30 minutes ago, Tommikka said:

    This sort of thing is used as a fill rig for scuba to paintball / airsoft cylinders 


    https://www.bzpaintball.co.uk/hk-army-a-clamp-yolk-fill-station-blue

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     


    It does of course depend on what type of fitting you have on your nitrogen cylinders.


     

    If you come from a regulated output then your maximum fill will be the maximum you can get.  That may be fine for testing provided you can draw off more than your airsoft output pressure requirement , but to get the most from your cylinder you need 3000psi / 232bar

     

    As you have a 300bar cylinder that’s 4500psi, which means you should regulate your fill rig to 3000psi, but provided you slow fill and watch the gauges it’s viable to fill into 3000psi from a 4500psi source (it is of course best practice to regulate at the appropriate level)

     


    This uses a site type fill station but the principles are the same.

     


    If filling from low or empty then fill a little, stop and pause, fill a little more and repeat.  That ensures it’s nice and slow and reduces heat generation 

    If you fast fill from empty then not only are you increasing the risk of overfilling but gas expands when hot - when it cools the pressure will drop which means a fast hot fill ends up with less of a fill

     

     

    I've seen those scuba adapters on a youtube video that was the cheapest method I could find if you had an old tank kicking around but even on FB or ebay you can pick them up pretty cheap. 

     

    The nitrogen bottles have a 5/8" fitting on which then goes off to the regulator, 

    BOC-Nitrogen-Regulator-82327.jpg

    However this that one in question is £800 lol I'll give my supplier a ring on Monday and see if they'll loan me one or chuck me a freebie, that reg is a high pressure the one we use is a High Flow which cost 3x as much and its massive as it has a heat exchanger when cutting full speed even the bottles start freezing up lol. 

     

    I know these tanks are designed for the pressure but they must be dead thick 1800psi is not to be sniffed at. 

     

     

     

     

     

  4. 17 minutes ago, Tommikka said:

    That’s good for HPA and / or nitrogen 

     

    Yep.  The optimum is to fill on site with a ‘proper’ high pressure, filtered & maintained compressor which runs into the thousands of £

     

    Cheaper compressors are available now (not workshop ones) can do the job these days without killing you, there are also 

     

    Your plan to use existing nitrogen facilities is a fair one

     

    Viable alternatives for those who need their own fill system are typically a scuba cylinder rig or a ‘shoebox compressor’ which takes input from a workshop type compressor then boosts up to 3000psi etc - but that is slow & noisy

     

    A compromise is a high pressure stirrup pump - relatively cheap (ensure a filter is added) but takes time and effort 

     

    Your existing nitrogen is a good call, clean & convenient 

     

    Now I just need to work out the best way of getting it from the regulator into the tanks filling nipple, I'm sure google has some sort of adapter :). 

  5. 52 minutes ago, Tommikka said:

    Just to be sure as you mentioned CO2……

     

    You are using an actual HPA cylinder aren’t you as opposed to a CO2 cylinder ?

     

    IMG_4220.jpeg.4c48166a94c1c6b2226d3488012ebce6.jpeg

     

    HPA cylinders are topped off with a regulator assembly incorporating burst discs, pressure gauge, fill nipple and output valve.

     

    Whereas CO2 cylinders have a combined input/output valve with potentially an on/off.

     

    Assuming it is HPA then nitrogen will be fine, it’s cleaner than air (of which nitrogen makes up the majority)

     

     

    Back in the day as paintball (mostly) migrated from CO2 to compressed air nitrogen was often used instead from bulk cylinders until sites invested in HPA compressors.

    this is my tank 

    tippmann.png?v=1690816790&width=500

     

    Got my wording mixed up meant shop air not CO2. 

     

    From what I can see apart from the risk your life aliexpress compressors HPA compressor are dead expensive. 

     

  6. 4 hours ago, Lozart said:

    As long as you keep on top of your maintenance (not sure if the nitrogen would be better or worse for any seals in the system) then I see no reason why not. It can't be any more aggressive than the propane you'd have been using prior to converting it to HPA!

    That was my thinking, nitrogren is actually a non-reactive gas it doesn't interact with anything, you can fill your car tyres up with it infact I'm sure racing car tyres are filled with it. Also as it's innert its safe to vent into the atmosphere unlike propane also in most cases it prevents oxidisation so should in theory be really good for the internals. 

     

    Mainly I was making sure I wasn't being completely stupid in why we use compressed air apart from the fact its easier to produce with a compressor etc... 

  7. I'll start off with I'm a complete HPA noob, I've just bought a conversion kit for my TM MWS CQB Block 1 & hence have a small HPA tank now that I need to fill up, there are a couple local dive clubs near me and obviously I can fill it up at my next game but outside of that I'm thinking what is an easier way to fill it up, I have access to an absolute ton of Nitrogen (I own a Fibre Laser) so on hand I have around 1,000L of 300 bar Nitrogen, what would the implications of using nitrogen instead of CO2 in the HPA tank? 

  8. Howdy folks :), 

     

    I've bought the HPA adapter for the MWS, what uprades would you guys recomend for the platform or should it be fine as is for the most part? I only really do CQB so I don't need it to shoot the other side of the a forest. 

     

     

     

     

     

  9. Bit of a splurge this week :). 

     

    Airtac MWS HPA adapter 

    Airtac Mag catch in black 

    Airtac AT200 Tank, reg and line kit 

    PTS EPM1-S x 3

    Vortex spitfire hd gen ii

    Army armament R604

     

     

     

     

    15 hours ago, GothicGhost said:

    New handguard to start my MWS PDW build 😁

    It's really nice quality and comes with different outer barrel lengths plus the nice gas block.

     

     

    Where did you get the gas block from I need one for my MWS block 1. 

  10. 11 hours ago, Impulse said:

    The remaining guns that need testing and tweaking while I'm not allowed to play. Most are simple tests and tweaking, nothing major since I finally got the MWS hopping the ammo I want to put through it last Sunday. It's mostly just setting the hop for the weights I want to use, but a few other minor tweaks needed.

     

    From left to right:

    TM MWS w/ Modelworks mk12 kit - Need to make sure it's shooting straight. Scope I had on it was wonky because of the mounts on Sunday

    Tanaka m700 w/ real Remington stock - Installed a new hop rubber and nub as it was a bit crap before. Need to set the hop now with the new setup

    JG BAR-10 - Just need to find what psi to set for 1.1J so I can use it at night games / no MED games; disgustingly quiet since it's internally suppressed and half of that outer barrel is just alternating large/small foam baffles. Already know it shoots phenomenally at 155psi, which gives about 2.3J on .48s, and I can go as low as 80psi, so sure I can get it to 1.1J as well

    G&P m14 DMR - Ironically not a DMR. Wasn't hopping well, but power, noise and snappiness was all amazing, so installed a new MR hop rubber. Need to set the hop up now.

    KJW m700 - Usually has a suppressor on it! Finally got around to finishing this one with the threaded shorter outer barrel, as well as the AA hop unit, nub and flamingo rubber. Need to set it up, both power and hop up.

     

    I think I have a type... 🤣

    image.thumb.jpeg.7c562405373f4a814f112aa5268745cc.jpeg

     

    Seems your type is long and slender, nice long range rack you have :). 

  11. Was looking for this thread earlier did a search didn't find anything, 

     

    I use Nuprol 1.0 I've seen the propane adapters would these hurt the gun atall or perfectly fine ? as the tanks of propane are around 2-3x cheaper for volume of gas. 

  12. 5 hours ago, LMKipper said:

    I’d be interested to hear about this, especially if it holds zero. Seen these myself and it always seems like a gamble. 

    Seems good so far, comparing it to a 5x magnifier I got off amazon its clearer and easier to see through, field test this weekend so hopefullly it does its job, optics are definatly hit and miss mind and the hits are normally 10x more expensive than the misses, not sure I can fork out over £1,000 for a proper one. 

     

    4 hours ago, Lozart said:

     

    All the ones I've tried have had really bad eye relief and piss poor shadowing from the tube on 4x. Personally I don't think that any of them are worth the weight.

    You always have to take into account an element of get what you pay for, I'm not expecting it to be the dogs bolex for the cost of it as long as it does a better job than the previous sight I'm happy, I've not got 20/20 vision anyway so some of the nuonces that other people pick up I miss. 

     

     

     

     

  13. 45 minutes ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:

    Looks really good - I've long been planning to make something similar. Is yours to be made from sheet metal? Mine is more likely to be an MDF creation.

    Yeah all sheet metal, riveted except for one side which will be bolted for access, I've got a laser cutter so easier to do things out of metal :), MDF would probably help to be less noisy if any hit the sides though. 

     

  14. The amount of stuff I've made now is quite long, currently working on a more effective target box the amazon box stuff with rag is getting a little beat up lol. 

     

    Sheet contsruction with a replacable A4 target sheet at the front, angle back should deflect any bbs that make it through PVC curtain strips i'll afix to the top plate and foam in the bottom tray should work, I'll let everyone know how it goes :). 

     

    image.thumb.png.13752ece6205386f1702ab15dbda4f14.png

     

  15. I've started hitting the prints since starting this sport and also love 3D Printing. 

     

    Started off with a Molle Case for my phone looked at some on Cult and thingiverse and well I have access to bigger toys so went with a 3D printed case & a Titnaium protective plate on the front with an adjustable Aluminium carrier to clip it to the molle band, I'll probably tweak the rear plate to take some weight out of it its fairly overkill at the moment lol, still in the trial and error stage though so tweaks to follow. 

     

    Have also printed BB canisters, funnels, speed loader adapters all the usual stuff, batter boxex, pistal case, and probably over 50 of the banger grenades :). 

     

     

     

     

    Molle Case 1.JPG

    Molle Case 2.JPG

    Molle Case 3.jpg

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