Sewdhull

Depending on the o ring type you may have issues. It's less an issue for static o rings but if they dry out or swell they don't fit anymore. If it works it works...but I'd stick with silicone oil for magazines.

Hop rubber knackered, BB placement inconsistent, nozzle maybe for that. If range is fine the BB is getting hopped tho.

Oils like this will seep around the ring and perfect the seal fixing them as you say. So good call. Non moving o rings working like seals can degrade over time drying out if some lubricant types are used, penetrating oils or WD 40 types can cause this. Moving ones like valves can be helped too. So adding oils back to the o ring can help them get squishy again and also physically fill the gaps(temporarily). I silicone oil for actual o ring lubing would be preferred, but as you have found beard trimmer oil works😃 You can get to the inside by dropping oil down the top and opening the valve. You might need more oil than ideal, but nice for servicing. Or...get a valve tool. Grease is better for assembly.

Does the cylinder head not have a bearing in it?

Did the cylinder move freely. Different gears can press unduly hard upwards on the rack and create drag? I'm having that issue right now on my SRC G36. Are you confident the bushings are pressed in sufficiently?

The warheads are 36k at 11.1v What perun settings are you using?

You can't put much faith in scales unless your paying hundreds of pounds. Mine cost a tenner tho As an example I weighed 6 .25g bbs. 2 were .25 and 4 were .27. 4 together were 1.00g 6 together were 1.52g Repeatability was good but it looks like the error in each measurement is likely similar meaning much more at low weights. Worth getting a calibration weight or two if it matters to you. Or weighing in batches.

I The jefftron has just one sensor for the fire mode it seems so it needs a grey in middle I guess. My perun has 2 sensors so the stickers are white with a black band.

The rotary hops on the g36s seem ok, you might need to shim them but they aren't bad. My src has a cast one which is nice when shimmed and I've a we999 which has a plastic one which again seems fine. They are different to accommodate the src magwell tube which 999 does not have. Ive aquired a metal one for the 999 which didn't require anything doing, but it's source is lost in the mists of time.

Yeah the stickers are sold separately from jefftron, it's a good shout that socom might have some. https://airsoftpro.cz These ppl have them in stock, totals 8EUR with post. Looks like they dispatch to the uk

Print it on a sticker. If you have printer perhaps. Cheaper if you have the kit. Draw it on a sticker even. Biro, marker etc

That novatech has an ESC mounted on the side, you'll see 3 wires one for each of the 3 phases leaving the board to the motor. That blue wire is for the trigger and there's a programmer for the ESC. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.begadi.com/catalog/sheets/17217001-manual.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj-0IyR1q2EAxXLZ0EAHR4nBko4ChAWegQIDhAB&usg=AOvVaw20Smh6im4n2MnCawEs30X1 It's been around a long time, since 2017 it seems. Yeah Leo, I'd read in this forum about it, but couldn't find it again. It is very different and interesting but given that it's so unique it would take some time to get anywhere, if it's even needed.

https://airsoftmilsimnews.com/ares-e-f-c-s-gearbox/ It was this but I can't find any guns with it in. Also the systema infinity gearbox with planetary gears. I don't think these are available any more

Turn on subtitles, it's explained it is one cycle but the data comes from a titan gate, so... It's just a comparison. There is very little that shouldn't be viewed critically. The absolute numbers I think are less relevant than the trend. All brushless will have a delay, as will all ETUs, how much will vary by the software in the motors. Lipos at the sort of currents here are much of a muchness so long as they are nearly full. There are some lipos that really aren't suitable, but generally they are good enough. Brushless motors are new in Airsoft and unusual because the motor has a controller inside it. I think the ideal would be controller in the ETU and the brushless motor bare like in drones for example. I forget who already does this in Airsoft...

I've added an o ring to the other hop adjuster screw and took out the plastic pin at the front and replaced it with a bolt to clamp things down a bit. It's only friction holding the slidey part in place so I added some. Put some markings on the gearbox cylinder maybe. sourcing map 10 Pcs Adhesive Backed Tape Measure 10cm Left to Right Read Measuring Tapes Stick on Workbench Ruler (Black) https://amzn.eu/d/ccTv0Nn

Helmets are the worst. I have a cheap fast helmet, but even the best stuff is not comfy and the trade off between protection and comfort isn't there in Airsoft. If you can't keep your head cool glasses will fog, visors even.... Fine if you want to larp to any degree, but it's not for me. I can't imagine playing a game in a Britannia or flameproof or helmet. Just training I wouldn't need to pee all day as the sweat would just soak into the suit even consuming everything in the camel bak.

Nitrile, I think, is the best for our application with conditions being far from the extremes viton might do better in, the data sheets say viton has less tear strength than nitrile which may well be relevant in Airsoft, where temp extremes and exposure to damaging chemicals is less an issue. I tried shore 70 Vs shore 90 and got a better seal with 70 using the push test. This was a 19 X 24 o ring. I don't know if vented heads are better than unvented ones, they all seem to rely on the head moving forward, pushing the o ring against the back of the groove, from the friction on the cylinder and sealing on that rear part of the groove. I imagine with no sealing on the rearward travel there's less effort needed to recharge the cylinder area with air. If the cylinder isn't a full type perhaps that's moot.

Reapers Airsoft have measured some cycle times for motors. Brushless do well in all categories Current/Peak Cycle Temp Base 35K 22A/43A 45ms 33C Tiernly 30K. 37A/78A 52ms 46C

Momentum is a made up value in calculations governing the motion of bodies, usually considered lossless to illustrate how they move in collision. Even in a car crash it's energy that matters not momentum, same for injuries from projectiles. There is a relationship between energy (a real thing) and momentum because of maths. Sometimes complicated maths. Think in terms of momentum if you want to, but our guns observe energy as a measure.

There's not a vast difference between the base and the Ronin. There's a big difference between the base and and a brushed motor. Do have an ETU?

I also like the t238. Reapers did some comparing and the warheads used less current but they may produce less torque... My take is if you are going to get a really good brushed motor get a brushless instead.

http://www.weairsoft.com/downloadarea.html Manuals... I'm unsure if it's the manufacturer, actually it's not.

The currents in aegs aren't usually very high so the perun is fine. I haven't done anything to the gearbox grooves other than check the piston slides properly. Perhaps I should. I'm trying to be mechanically sympathetic to the gearbox and using the lowest spring stiffness I can.

The only torque on the base of the spring will be that overcoming the friction in the bearing in the piston or vice versa. If you have 2 bearings, one with a marginally higher level of friction than the other, only one of the bearings will rotate because the 2nd bearing never gets to see enough force to rotate, it dissipates once the 1st bearing is rotating.

You only need one bearing. Piston end if you have a choice. It's the piston compressing the spring.