Sewdhull

There's less than 20quid between them, 48 and 63 (from ak2m4), get the hybrid

Perun do just a MOSFET, a simple switch, you'll need to solder it. Acetech do one too. I have one of those, it's very good. There's very little to them and they will prolong the life of your contacts. Having said that you are on a 7.4v battery and a brushless so your currents will be low. You may not see any benefit for a very long time. If you put an 11.1 in you'll want a MOSFET.

Without knowing how it works it difficult. Maybe a heavier striker, get some tig electrodes if you need tungsten, about 2-3 times as dense as steel, almost doubled the density of lead. If it's sprung, a stronger spring from springs r us or similar online

I don't believe motor shafts snap on starting like that, unless it's the pinions that fracture, but if there is ramping to start off with it's likely to keep the current down through the MOSFETs. Start up currents can be much larger on brushlesses than brushed

365nm emitters are cheap and as UV as you need. White LEDs will do the same thing, which ironically are UV LEDs with a phosphor coating. Shine a torch on the bbs and you will see a wide range of light wavelengths will activate the phosphors. It will depend on what phosphor is used. I do not think it matters about the tracer colour. Red is not as bright to our eyes as green at the same energy and phosphors favour the green...

The cost of getting a motor, any motor from good to great is really high as the differences tend to be small once you have for example moved to Neodymium magnets. The start up delay comes down to the board driving the coils and sensing the position of everything, and honestly you aren't going to notice it unless you go measuring it. 7ms will be noticed by no one. Even 13ms. Your reaction time is about 250ms, if a semi shot takes 7 or 13ms longer to happen what is the effect and it's only relevant comparing brushless to brushless. That's if the experiment I saw can even be understood and is accurate. I would ignore this factor. Parallel windings are a way of getting more copper into the coils as thinner wires will sit more densely than a single wire of the same cross sectional area when they are all bundled together. It's harder to wind them so it costs more. Each winding is made up of 8 parallel conductors each .3mm ( squared I presume) and there are 6 windings. 2 for each pole. The magnets on the rotor will have 4 poles so they don't line up with the 6 poles of the stator and stall the motor. Magnet strength (the number in N45SH) is affected by temperature they get stronger when cooled below 20C and weaker as they get above 20C but the letters after the number tell you the temperature rating which changes because the manufacturer stabilises them for temperature to preserve their magnetic properties. No letter and its 60C, SH is 150C again letters cost money. It is still better to select a motor of the right speed and torque for your application. The problem with PWM is that the torque drops so the speed does which may not be a problem, but proper gearing or motor winding would be preferable. It's also less efficient. It's an added feature which may or may not be useful. I used brushless motors extensively with drones and the software in the esc was really important to good performance and was adjustable, I think it's less important in Airsoft as they are single speed motors so the software can be simple.

A slight aside, the Perun hybrid mosfet has power out put for such things as magazines and tracers. Also I'd be tempted to connect the LEDs in series or parallel/series ( since you have 4 leds), you'd only need one resistor for limiting if any. A project I'm interested in myself. I notice that my UV torch makes for less bright tracers compared to pretty much all my white torches. Did you test the LEDs shining on a bb to gauge the effectiveness of the white or UV leds? Sorry for all the input.

Well at 60 fps the nozzle to bucking relationship is losing the air. I'm assuming all else is well. So your options are worn or broken tappet plate, nozzle or bucking. Nozzles get wear inside and at the tip whacking the bbs all the time, tappet plates wear on the fin and buckings get worn lips... Inconsistent air seal issues often fall to the nozzle and bucking meeting offline due to wear and then things get gradually worse. If a bb always comes out that's where I would start and just replace both the nozzle and bucking with the same thing as is there already.

ok, the UV leds i was looking at were I think, 3.5 fV so 4 of those, even 3 would be under or around battery voltage in series. Looks like yours are parallel tho so you'd need the current limiters. LED drivers are cheap, so that's another possibility.

You'll need to check that the nozzle withdraws far enough and /or the bucking isn't poking rearwards. Either of these will stop a bb entering the barrel, most annoyingly.

That's cool. What's the forward V on the LEDs, do you need resistors at all?

That's the idea but you have to have pinion height above the bevel gear set correctly too otherwise the noise is not related to the meshing but rubbing on the bevel shaft or always being unmeshed. This why is can never seem to change much or finding the sweet spot is Impossible sometimes

There are batteries of lower capacity that can provide more current and the opposite is true. I have a few 5 to 10C batteries I used for RC stuff but these have a capacity of a few Ah so still provide a reasonable current, well enough for the servos and avionics etc. The C rating is a way you could compare batteries of differing capacities, but what is changing is thier IR. It's an industry engineering thing which i now used in marketing with all the reliability that brings. Get a decent charger and compare the IR yourself, its a comparison more than a measurement because it will vary. Manufacturers use thinner separators ,varying formulations of electrolite to get different characteristics. For example, nanotech cells seem to be similarly formulated both large and small and do tend to have lower IR when they are larger. The lithium ion 18650 cells have rated currents and capacities which vary wildly given the cell is a fixed size.

Corrosion, Stainless or brass, Stainless if there's got to be a winner

Yes it has IR function. Chargers haven't got better in a long time, so there's lots of good ones out there. Cabling is often an issue but if all your batteries have the same plug it won't matter. XT60 for the win. If you test the battery when new, fully charged, then test occasionally will see the battery decline over time. Useful for comparing know good batteries to any new ones you get.

A good charger will do that the IMAX b6 type and it's clones for example. They aren't expensive about 35 quid.

I test all the batteries I buy and return the crap ones. I don't worry about capacity if the IR is low. Give and take...

Other than the plug and it fitting, there's no Airsoft battery as such. You can imagine that batteries, even small ones that supply more than a hundred amps regularly need to be 'better' than a battery putting out 40. I use Amazon batteries and some nano techs and whilst youd notice it on a drone in a gun you don't. I'll charge all mine up, leave them a day and see what the rof is and put a new post up. Maybe I'll have my super dooper lion battery made by then.

The volumes of the cells do vary at similar capacities, more volume can give you more capacity and/or more current ability. Worth bearing in mind that drawing more current will reduce the capacity of the cell. By which I mean less current will give you more mAh. In Airsoft you don't usually need high C, low internal resistance batteries.

Nuprol use the same cells in thier batteries as everyone else. The only batteries I've found that seem to be better are the turnigy nanotech ones, unless you count the great drone ones. Too low an internal resistance, read high C, doesn't happen on a battery, only the voltage. Use a MOSFET to save the contacts and if a MOSFET let's out it's smoke, it's still not the battery. The only way a battery can do bad things is if it's connected the wrong way round.

For pretty much all Brushless motors don't use active braking or rate of fire reduction, including smart trigger. Some motors might work with these but its a bad idea anyway.

What features were you after, I used a simple mosfet switch for my dmr. Pull the trigger it shoots once. Now I have the folo

The low capacity just means you'll need more of them, the nanotech batteries are pretty good I have found. Is that the largest battery you can fit? You can refine the search for hobby king batteries using dimensions... you may already be aware. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-3s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html

If this is happening after the gun has been working fine then it's cut off lever wear most likely, maybe trigger trolley. The contacts don't have a way to close up over time, only open wider. If it were me, I'd get a new cut off lever and set of contacts ( they cheap). With the gearbox together still you can see the operation of the lever and trigger trolley and see how the cut off lever behaves, but it is this lever tipping the trigger trolley that gives you semi when the sector gear flips the trolley up. If the contacts look good, just replace the trolley and leave the contacts alone.

It's the fit really and yes some clips fit better than others at least that's been my experience. I have used a little epoxy to pad out the clip so it has no play, but you need to carefully align stuff and then let it cure. In short, I roughed up the barrel flats, degreased em, then put a little epoxy on the flats and put the clip on. Once the epoxy firms up take the clip of and use a knife to tidy the excess. In a perfect world id put the epoxy on the clip but it doesn't adhere as well to the clip as the barrel. If the barrel and bucking are moving together you can shim the bucking to the hop with PTFE tape. Also make the front part of the hop snugger onto the barrel (where the ring goes in if you have one) If the barrel is moving inside the bucking you can shim the front part of the bucking to the barrel and make the front part of the hop snugger as above.