Sewdhull

Reapers Airsoft have measured some cycle times for motors. Brushless do well in all categories Current/Peak Cycle Temp Base 35K 22A/43A 45ms 33C Tiernly 30K. 37A/78A 52ms 46C

Momentum is a made up value in calculations governing the motion of bodies, usually considered lossless to illustrate how they move in collision. Even in a car crash it's energy that matters not momentum, same for injuries from projectiles. There is a relationship between energy (a real thing) and momentum because of maths. Sometimes complicated maths. Think in terms of momentum if you want to, but our guns observe energy as a measure.

There's not a vast difference between the base and the Ronin. There's a big difference between the base and and a brushed motor. Do have an ETU?

I also like the t238. Reapers did some comparing and the warheads used less current but they may produce less torque... My take is if you are going to get a really good brushed motor get a brushless instead.

http://www.weairsoft.com/downloadarea.html Manuals... I'm unsure if it's the manufacturer, actually it's not.

The currents in aegs aren't usually very high so the perun is fine. I haven't done anything to the gearbox grooves other than check the piston slides properly. Perhaps I should. I'm trying to be mechanically sympathetic to the gearbox and using the lowest spring stiffness I can.

The only torque on the base of the spring will be that overcoming the friction in the bearing in the piston or vice versa. If you have 2 bearings, one with a marginally higher level of friction than the other, only one of the bearings will rotate because the 2nd bearing never gets to see enough force to rotate, it dissipates once the 1st bearing is rotating.

You only need one bearing. Piston end if you have a choice. It's the piston compressing the spring.

Brushless motors will keep the current draw down, even when they are on stiffer springs. Mechanically they are quieter and with only the bearings as a wear item, likely to last forever. They have bags of torque partly because they are electronically commutated (probably variable timing) and partly because there are more poles and room for more copper. The bit that makes the heat is on the outside so they run cooler and the magnets are better shielded from the heat. You battery will last longer in a day but also have a longer lifetime. Ther are expensive only because few people use them. I'll be looking at ak's when they are in, I have an adv one I haven't used yet.

312 xt95 324 xt100 356 Xt105 With the spring guide bearing removed.

Metal upper mp5s weigh 3 to 4kg. A plastic lower weighs little, I wonder what a metal one weighs. Once I field mine I'll be able to tell whether I made an error.

Yes they are the same size. Ported cylinders can/will reduce energy if they are ported closer to the head A stiffer spring is used to compensate if necessary

Woodland, or at least open. I've taken a spring bearing out and gone from 390 down to 372 to 375. I'll order some springs tonight I think.

If you need more energy in a shorter barrel your only way of getting getting more is a harder push, but you won't need the same volume of air. Do you know what cylinder you have, in respect of the porting? I've dropped 25fps by taking one of the spring bearings out. I'm pretty sur I'm over volumed, there's not of a pop from the barrel

Stiffer spring and better airseal will give you more. My mp5 barrel is 229mm gives 420fps on a .2 with an xt 120 spring Can't say how accurate my chrono is tho

They are a very pretty gun the solid stock is my preference, the collapsing stock is nice for transport. Detach the silencer and it's an mp5k nearly. It's only one pin to remove the stock anyway. Yes I have a rubber to add once I'm ball park energy wise from ak2m4. And some others I haven't tested. The unknown springs are from other guns. I might lose some energy hopping .3 or .32 so I was hoping to be a lil closer to 350 and it's a short barrel so I should run a few of those through before I do anything drastic. I'm likely to replace the 390 one in the gun it came from. I've just taken the bearing off the spring guide to reduce the spring tension. Also I'd really like to know the spring number should I need to replace it in the future. I'll fiddle more tommorow I think the barrel is long enough but if you do make it longer your gonna need a weaker spring. Also I'm not convinced the hop nozzle seal is right yet.

Oh...no sausages for me then...goulash maybe

Some thin pliers might help reprofile the spring bit

I'll need the seasoning, I'm doing some batch cooking.

It may be possible to insert a torch in the lower tube, take the wiring down the tube and mount the pressure switch where you will. I know this can be done on a Springer, I don't know what's in your lower tube...oo er... https://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/218458-tokyo-marui-m870-building-the-ultimate-airsoft-shotgun/

Gun running well, I need a spring. The following is with zero hop. Barrel I believe is 229mm. Unknown spring 325 FPS .2 Unknown 2 390 Begadi 110. 420 Xt 120 420 Xt 130 445 22rps 11.1v I'll have put a connector on a 7.4v... Or maybe short stroke it a bit... Any thoughts on that?

Looking at proportionality, common values can be ignored if the proportionality is unaffected, so only changes need to be considered. Air density etc can be ignored. Only if you need a numerical result would you need to run through the calculations with values. Dear me

It's not about momentum. It's energy. As you can see above they aren't the same. 0.2BB at 100m/s drag is X Newtons. 0.3BB at 85m/s drag is .72X N. FDrag prop to v² .2 v² is 10000 .3 v² is 7225 or .72 of 10000. Drag (force) is directly proportional to the square of the speed, other variables are the same. 0.2BB acceleration is -Y ms² 0.3BB acceleration is -.48Y ms² a prop to F a prop to 1/m .3BB has .72 of the FDrag of the .2 .3BB has 1.5 of the mass of the .2 .72/1.5 = .48 of the acceleration of the .2, a deceleration in this case. Acceleration is directly proportional to the force on the BB (less on the .3), and inversely proportional to mass (more on the .3). You can see that the decceleration is less than half for a .3 at the same energy than the .2 . The .2 will slow to match the .3 velocity but even thenen the .3 will lose velocity slower because of its 1.5 times more mass. Only when the FDrag on the .3 is 1.5 times the drag on the .2, about 1.25 times faster than the .2 will they deccelerate at the same rate. I think

Get other stickers and a black marker. Ones which stick to your chosen plastic. Make sure there's no sticker overhang

If you have training you can use P2 category pyro, but whether and Airsoft site would allow it I don't know.