Sewdhull

They do have H3 on them, which is tritium.

GDPR applies to private or public areas. GDPR with respect to video applies in supermarkets, on the street etc. There are very few exceptions, marshalling Airsoft not being one.

If you were to short stroke the thing you would have less energy to transmit to the bb since the spring will have less energy. If you kept the same spring then the motor would have less work to do and would cycle faster but the BB energy would drop, but perhaps not by much if you have plenty of volume in the cylinder compared to the barrel. Low TPA motors tend to draw a lot of current if they cant spin up close to their off load speed so starting from no revs draws lots of juice. You'll still get plenty of torque but at the expense of high current draw and a warm or hot motor. I've not seen a tight piston, side to side, only one top to bottom with the sector gear installed, which is a rack height, gear size issue. I'd be checking the gearbox piston rails are undamaged, or true. I'd also measure the pistons to see what the difference is.

Perhaps drill out a hole in the knob bit and put in a suitable length of dowel. All the stress is on that area.

Having video footage is great, people are unreliable and tend to make things up. It's a good idea, both for insurance and the management of people, customers and staff, to have it.

Crappy batteries do exist even from new, but old used batteries seems the likely cause.

Perhaps the connector types are incompatible. I had a quick look and there's no wires crossed over so gotta be the connectors looking similar but actually not Perhaps you can check the continuity

I'll ask my place to weigh some bbs too. Never thought of doing it before

The problem with cheap scales is the sensitivity, lab scales should do the job tho

Has anyone seen Ricky Stanicky? Hehe Aircocking...

Yeah a thin rigid plastic or metal body will transmit that sound quite well and with your ear next to it will seem loud. Butyl will reduce this alot, esp to anyone distant. The barrel report which is directional potentially can be heard at greater distances if it is loud, but as we know some guns are quiet without any silencing. I think getting the voluming right is probably the most effective silencing, but if for whatever reason you want to reduce that report somewhere contained for the air to expand into will reduce that pop.

What does the original look like Did you make the cable yourself?

Whilst I've not gone into this too much, there's air pressure making a soundwave and the sound from the slap of the piston travelling out the barrel that can be dealt with by a silencer. Baffles help with noise and foam will absorb some of that sound. Baffles bend the sound away from the BB path allowing it to be absorbed. One day I'll measure the sound empirically, but baffles seem to work well.

Good job

Ppl will get the gearbox as quiet as they can. Gears whirr and don't always mesh properly regardless of shimming but it's a worthy task. Reduce the piston noise with pads or even an airbrake, match the spring and volume to reduce the slap and the muzzle report. Pad the reciever with butyl soundproofing. Silencers do reduce the muzzle report and slap noise getting out but it's a lot of work it seems. Absorbing the higher frequencies does a lot for changing the perception of the loudness and the ability of the ear to percieve direction.

I'm not sure all the generations are represented but the models have been produced I'm sure

Are you increasing the lipo voltage and if you are adding a MOSFET will you use precocking?

Your first pic shows the metal sticky up bit (msub) alongside the slide when it should be under it. Either the metal parts holding the msub have moved, the slide is not on right, or really loose. I cant see the msub bending unless the metal parts at the rear have moved, it looks good from here. Check the slide with no mag in there. It's hard to convey how it should be Also I don't think the slide should go that far back so look at the inner and outer barrel alignment Have you had the metal parts at the back out? Check the msub isn't bent too

It doesn't sound like you've done more than field strip it for cleaning. I'd go with some error when assembling it again.

yeah, micrometer for the win. calipers can be influenced. Ive accumulated 3 or 4 sets of calipers, from an old vernier one, to a plastic £5 set, which works well enough but cant be trusted.

Looks like he's finding ways to fry MOSFETs

As Leo says a brushless motor is like any other, but it will run cooler, spin up faster, can have more torque and because it has 4 magnets and 3 poles(6 effectively because they operate in pairs) runs smoother. You don't need one but it's just a better way of getting the amps to spin a motor.

Nimh get warm when they are full and are kept charging. They rely on the detection of a small drop in voltage at full charge to stop charging and if that is not detected correctly the temp will rise, basically because no more charging can be done and the continued current heats the cells. If no balance charging is possible, some cells may be full while the others catch up and the full cells will warm. Some chargers used a probe to detect the temp rise and stop charging. Lipo uses a voltage limit to stop charging, with a reduction in current as it gets close to the cut off voltage, which is straightforward. https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-408-charging-nickel-metal-hydride

The current that flows is regulated by the resistance of the circuit so any reduction in resistance increases the current flowing. It's motor load that raises the current predominantly because as you can see from motor stats, with no load you're seeing around 2A. Increase load and you raise the current to around 20A. It's possible to keep raising that current by loading the motor even if it's a 30C lipo, making it's revs drop. My cheap 11.1v 25C 2Ah lipos have an IR of about 30mOhms. Short it out and potentially you have 370A for a little while at least, so it's unlikely your battery will be a source for destroying things, but loading the motor.

Refilling from a larger propane tank is the most economical, but you do need a little kit to do it. Getting Airsoft gas in bulk will save money ofcourse and allow you to use a higher pressure gas if you desire. Most bottles are 300g, ASG are 270g net, Nuprol 300g for example.