RR01

You may have disengaged the trigger from the sear, or it may have been like that when you got it. Easiest way is to carefully unscrew the two screws that hold the spring seat in place (at the back) and then lift it up slowly. That will raise the piston sufficient for it to clear the sear and un-cock the gun, although it will do so as it you are firing it. Then you'll need to drop the trigger block out of the gun (push through the pin that the fire selector stops against) to see why the trigger isn't releasing the sear. It releases by pushing up on the front of the sear, so pushing down on the rear where the piston is held in place. Could possibly be that the lug on the trigger is broken. And leaving it cocked would not break the spring, just weaken it a bit.

Is your CM16 the L or S model? My S model came with low FPS but when I tried it with an M4 length inner in it it jumped straight up to 330 fps. G&G use the same gearbox in both the L & S models and the much shorter inner barrel in the S model is what gives the lower fps. If you have the S length then an M110 spring will probably put you into the range you want.

Have you remembered to put the metal plate spacer between the motor and the baseplate/adjuster screw?

That sounds like the trigger moving contacts are not mating properly with the fixed contacts, or the fixed contacts are burnt, reducing the amount of current getting to the motor. Have you taken the trigger switch apart to check and clean all the contacts? If the fixed contacts are dirty or burnt they are fairly cheap and easy to replace. I'm sure Airsoft World still do replacement contact sets for V2 trigger blocks if you need them. The other possibility is that when put back together the moving trigger contact is only making very brief connection and then being sprung back out of contact. I've had this happen to me in the past. It was to do with the semi auto cutoff lever connection to the moving trigger switch not allowing sufficient time for the contact to remain closed to activate the motor.

If you connect a live wire from the battery direct to the motor, by-passing the trigger switch, does it work? If not then the motor is at fault. If it does work then the fault is on the live feed via the trigger switch and could be the new wiring, the contacts in the trigger switch itself or, if you have a selector plate with a copper contact on it, the contacts not making a clean connection when the selector is moved (had that happen on one of my re-builds). If you have access to a multimeter you should be able to trace the circuit through to see where the fault lies and trigger switch contacts can regularly be a problem, as without a mosfet fitted they will spark and burn almost every time the trigger is pulled, reducing the contact patch and leading to poor or nil connection.

See the copper coloured part of the gearbox? That is the cylinder and the dark patch in the middle is the port. Whoops, missed the subsequent posts.

All politicians are the same. The only thing they want is power and money for themselves. Politics is a big ego trip. None of them care a shit about ordinary people, except when it comes to election time and if they could they'd get rid of elections altogether. But don't believe all the crap from Labour about being on the side of the working man. They are basically Communist and like all commies they just want to control everything (I know having been a Labour party member in the past). Ed Ballsup will be a total disaster as Chancellor and under him taxes for everyone will need rise to pay for their total inability to understand economics. And when taxes rise, investment drops and wealth creating jobs are destroyed. Gordon Brown totally destroyed the UK pensions industry during New Labour's first term in office and everyone who has a job today will have a far poorer retirement because of his stupidity (remember his selling Britain's gold at rock bottom prices!!). The Tories are hardly any better, but they do understand that private enterprise is what actually creates wealth in any economy and wealth creates jobs. Without profits there is no money to invest in improving products or working conditions or creating more jobs. Government jobs (local & national) may put money in some peoples pockets, but if every job was a government job then before long there would be no jobs as they would be no money to pay for them. As for the SNP, what a pity that September's vote was no, as otherwise we could do without them having any say in the way the majority of the people in the UK are governed. Their only interest is Scotland, so unless anything discussed in Westminster has a direct effect on Scottish interests they should have no say whatsoever on things south of the border. The Greens are irrelevant. Their ideas would send this country back to before the Industrial revolution. Just look at the alternative energy policies. Wind power is a total waste of time and money as it cannot be relied upon when needed. Wave power would have been a much better bet, as at least you can rely on the fact that the tides will rise and fall twice a day. You cannot say that with wind. And due to green policies we're closing coal fired power stations and closing nuclear plants so fast that in a few years we'll be back to the 1970s with rolling power cuts because there just isn't enough spare generating capacity in this country. Just hope we don't have a really bad winter in the next few years. Climbs off soap box and goes back to watching the telly!!

Basically no. TM internals are usually very good, so unless you have a problem with it, leave well alone and just stick to adding to the external parts.

Trouble is, even with the map, most of it looks the same, so unless you know exactly where you are or where you came from, you can still easily get disorientated, especially in the unlit bits.

It could be an early version CA B&T. I've got one that has most of the features you mention, including the torch front, but it has a full metal receiver that splits in the centre (i.e. vertically not horizontally), with hop adjuster on the left, although mine has a folding stock (similar to UMP) rather than a sliding one. If you want a few pics to compare, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you some.

Madbull Ultimate hop units are good. I've had three and still have one in my M16, but they are quite fussy as to which guns they fit in. One I had just would not sit right in a custom gun I made, so was swapped out for a basic plastic Element hop unit that worked fine. It also depends on what hop rubber and inner barrel you have. Madbull Black Python barrels fit fine, as they use quite thin walled tube, but another make (can't remember which now) was a very tight fit and didn't want to sit properly in the hole. As to the tracer unit, it's not that much different in operation to a silencer type tracer unit, in that a light source illuminates the tracer bbs before they leave the barrel, but it is a much smaller unit and can be left in situ. If it was mine, I'd find some way to wire it into the motor side of the trigger switch, so that the LEDs only worked when the trigger was pulled, but also add in a separate switch, possibly on the negative wire, to cut power completely when you don't need tracer rounds.

OK, understand where you are coming from and I agree it wouldn't work on a RS weapon.

Why would you want to put a full length silencer on a CQB weapon? It defeats the object of having a short weapon in a closed environment.

That looks to be the same one I have and each end has a different thread, so yes it should fit fine provided your RIF has a 14mm thread on the end of the outer barrel.

What are you screwing into, a nut, or a thread cut into metal, plastic or wood? Whichever though, as the rifle is new contact the retailer and arrange to send it back, as it's obviously faulty.

Why would you want to upgrade that? It's pretty good OOTB. About the only thing to add would be a red dot sight. Otherwise play with it until something goes wrong, as playing with the current specs could mean it performs worse after "upgrading" it than it does to start with. And a torch front end might not work with the built-in silencer. I tried adding a much smaller diameter silencer to my standard MP5 with torch mount and it fouled the torch.

Feed problem like that can sometimes be caused if the hop unit isn't pushing back tight against the gearbox. Well used guns will sometimes lose the small spring that sits on the top of the hop unit to push it back against the gearbox when the receiver is fitted and can mean that the hop isn't sitting quite right in the mag to allow clean feeding of the BBs. The other possibility is that the hop has been changed and might not be lined up correctly. I had that problem with my custom built M4. My preferred hop unit just would not sit right and was about 1.5mm out of line. A different make hop was fitted and worked fine, even though it wasn't as good a unit as the other. The other possibility is that you have the hop turned too far on, which jambs a BB in the barrel.

Have you tried fitting the gearbox into the receiver and test firing it without the pistol grip fitted (something easy to do on a V3 gearbox)? If so, did it work then, or not? If it did work, then fitting the pistol grip is what is causing the problem. If it didn't work, then as mentioned above, it's probably the trigger not moving far enough back or the selector plate is getting hung up on the receiver side somehow. With V3 gearboxes you do need to be careful when fitting the pistol grip that you only use the correct length screw to hold on the grip, otherwise a too long screw will press down on the bottom of the motor housing and stop the motor from turning when power is applied via the trigger switch.

It sounds like the inner part of the mag spring has broken off, allowing the spring to only partially wind until the inner slips around and unwinds the spring in one quick burst. If the mag is new, send it back to the retailer to sort and in the meantime, try to borrow one from someone to confirm that there is nothing wrong with the gun itself. Alternatively, if you feel like repairing it yourself, hicap mags are fairly simple to strip and a new spring is quite a cheap fix.

I think you've answered your own question. By loosing two teeth you have shortened the stroke quite considerably. I've done an AOE correction on one of my M4s and used very thin shims (about 1.5mm)(between the piston and head to achieve the correct result without having to cut any teeth. As you also have a vented cylinder you have probably dropped the volume of air under compression by maybe 25%, which should account for your loss of FPS.

The other thing to try is cycling the gun in auto so that the piston stops part way through the cycle and remains partly compressed. Leave it like that for 48-72 hours and you will find the spring will loose a little bit of its tensile strength, like cutting about half a coil off the spring. Then retest on the chrono. At your site you probably want to aim for an average of 338 with a max / min of +/- 5 FPS, which should keep you safely under the site limit. I once did this by mistake and left a spring half cocked for two months and lost about 60 FPS initially, but continued use then saw that climb back up to a loss of about 20 FPS overall.

Just a thought but did you put the spring in the right way? Some are multi-directional but others have closer coils at the back end that need to sit on the spring guide. If the gearbox is cycling enough to pull the spring back but then gets stuck before it can turn over to release it then the spring "might" be jambing on the inside of the piston at full cock if it's in the wrong way.

A bipod will help if you intend doing a lot of prone sniping, but it does add quite a bit of weight to the front end. Personally, I'd go either for the under-gas block rail adapter or the bipod type that clips into the receiver to bring the extra weight of a bipod back a bit. But then I haven't fitted one to mine, as all the wrappings on the front end make it difficult to access the front end anyway to add, or deploy, a bipod. As for any airsoft sniper rifle, there isn't anything OOTB that is really good, apart from TM products, which are way too expensive and low powered, or a Real Sword SVD, which is also VERY expensive. Almost everything else needs money spent on it to make it a good, accurate (as much as any airsoft gun can be), skirmishable weapon, from hop units and trigger mechanisms to inner barrels. That said the A&K SVD does take AEG springs and inner barrels, so you are not limited to the sniper specific upgrades that most other sniper type rifles require. I quite like mine, but as someone said previously, it is long and gets heavy during a long game, so a sling is a necessity. However, I had an L96 a few years back and that felt really heavy after an hour or so. If you want something light, go for a clone of the M700 sniper rifle, as they are nowhere near as long or heavy, but will still need a lot spent on them to bring them up to scratch. And as for the CO2 kit, yes it does make it a lot lighter to cock, but the downside is that it's a pig to have to change between the different parts when out skirmishing and it can be quite a process to find a spring strength that will give you a site legal FPS when using it. I have put together a totally separate CO2 kit for mine, where I replace all the bolt section with the CO2 specific parts, but getting the FPS to just below 500 is proving quite tricky at the moment, as the strong spring with the kit pushes out anywhere from 550 - 600 FPS on a new bulb and the weaker spring struggles to get over 350. More work needed.

And if you want to upgrade it, you can get everything you need from here if ASPUK is OOS: http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/index.php?cPath=93_204&osCsid=d6022784d5e8c212edbdecaac7a1c8ee

The "plug & play" mosfets do add a number of options to the firing process, but do not remove the heavy current that runs through the trigger switch contacts and can cause burning of those contacts after heavy use. Only a fully hard wired mosfet can do that, as it removes the heavy current completely from the trigger contacts and sends it direct to the motor through the mosfet. I've used both in M16s, L85s and an AK and currently have an ASCU V2 fitted to an M16. The trigger response with the ASCU is very quick, probably as good as a PTW, and I use the 3 round burst option on auto to save ammo, as I only ever run midcap mags these days. If you can afford the ASCU then it really is the best option, otherwise one of the other hard wired mosfets is still a good bet. As for the plug & play type, I've still got one, but it's stuck in my spares box and unlikely to get used again.