Davegolf

It is strange how people are around differing products, activities and interests with regard to friendliness and help!

😁

Using a spare fire selector you can modify it to be semi auto only. You can also modify the stock floating valve and make you own npas, covered 20ish pages back i think. You can adjsut power with all available gasses on a standard MWS from sub 300 to 360

Do you know what gas and at what temperature this happened?

Supergrade!!! Nice 👍

I agree, E&L are the best for externals and internals at the price point.

Oh I know, but the usual reason people fit a mosfet to begin with is to protect against contact arcing. I was just trying to make the point that a gun with that many goodies at that price point has cut backs in the package somewhere to make it profitable. Buy a high quality basic gun as a base.

Obviate... is that a Wizarding spell? 😁

Yeh the trigger boxes are normally pretty slick, and have a less gritty takeup and faster/crisper reset once deburred, profiled and fine wet/dry

No i havnt, where have you heard this? do you have a link?

@TadsJ2 can you expand, explain, what product you are talking about? Theres quite a few buffer products out there! Nice bit of kit for sure! Worth noting that what you experienced from the old trigger unit is generally resolved by a good clean out and deburr. The dead trigger is caused by excess friction from parts that have marred over. I actually find the old/worn trigger units once sorted out are better than new ones!

If you want a gun you that has quality internals and externals that are well made and easily interchangeable (that’s what the AR platform is all about) this is a great option https://www.bztactical.co.uk/e-l-elar-m4a1-aeg-platinum I rate the G&G Advanced series too at your price range. I also rate ICS guns, but they are a bit funky externals wise. I wouldn’t personally by a gun with a factory/proprietary mosfet other than a ASG Scorpion I mean people bang on about burnt out contacts without a mosfet etc but you’re talking about some serious usage to get to that level of wear. Then in the future you can fit a quality mosfet if you want, pretty simple.

@HorribleSkrub are you sure the dial is moving / have you counted it’s position?

Multi millionaire with zero people skills... figures.

If you wanted someone to do all of that for you, that will be very very expensive. You have your visual concept You then need to dimension all of that $ Technical drawing or CAD/Solidworks etc $$ Test in 3D print $$ Assuming all is good and you want to make it/them; CNC machine your metal parts $$$ Then you are looking at having bespoke dies made to mold your polymer $$$$ Pay someone else to do all of that for you $$$$

The nozzle return spring only breaks through fatigue from extended use, it’s not a necessary upgrade, just a spare to carry. Only needed to be a genuine one or E6 150% one 😉

If you want to be sure, yes strip clean, inspect and re greae all the o rings / seals, check for any obstructions/swarf, check the force required to push the output valves.

Difference in your output valves, damaged/worn gas route seal, actually different internally?

OP asks for community to point out best pistol/brand, gets answer many times but doesn’t like the truth 😂

Need a pic of it on, I can only imagine you wearing a bra what with all the ‘need it high’ remarks #gunnerbra 😂 Hope it works out for you 👍

I think he’s just trying to make it look like the MP5K in RS with no compensator threads. How you doing anyway Ron 😁

I don’t what your torn about or is difficult to fathom? Surely run a PRS, silencer, AMAGs and lock to semi in the FE settings. Then for assault/CQB for different stock, remove silencer, run PMAGs and turn the power down

Visually to make it more DMR legitimate, just run a decent sized silencer on there and some short magazines, like these AMAG As for performance you have a P* FE, so you it’s all down to Rhop and setup/tuning to maximise its effectiveness

Oh dear 🙈😆